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Dartman
02-25-2007, 07:57 PM
So far I've done 3 projects with no problems other then adjusting the feed tables so a long piece would correctly match to the rollers. All my projects are done on red oak.

Today I attempt to start a project and keep getting a "Clear Board Sensor" message. Hit the sensor with compressed air - nada. Took a clean rag to it - nada. Tried to do the troubleshooting steps in the manual - nada. I did find that when checking the options that the homing sensor was "Blocked". Moved the trucks a bit and that cleared up but still had the "Clear Board Sensor" message. Tried turning it off and back on with rollers down and locked (is this called power clear?) with no luck. At times I get an Error 398 message.

Ive read thru a lot of "sensor" posts about this but haven't really found one that is clear cut for a fix. Im wondering if removing the sensor will accomplish anything.

One last thing, the temp here is in the 30's and probably in the 40's in the workshop but this didn't cause any problem before.

I'm inclined to call tech support but thought I'd try working thru this on the forum first. Any advice/help appreciated.

Jeff_Birt
02-25-2007, 08:23 PM
Have you tried the sensor test menu to check the board sensor reading?The low temps can be a problem with the board sensor, also sawdust can get inside it. There are two screws holding it in place. Unplug the machine, unscrew the sensor, unplug the sensor, clean, install.

liquidguitars
02-25-2007, 11:58 PM
That was the fix for me, I had to pull out my board sensor window 2 days ago and now the Carvewright has 20/20 vision .

I was wondering if i need the tiny little window part, as the sensor unit was dirty on the inside of the glass unless I reglue the part it will contune to get dirty.

Dartman
02-26-2007, 12:39 AM
Have you tried the sensor test menu to check the board sensor reading?

Yes I did and the reading would not change from "0". I'll get the space heater going tomorrow and see if that works. If not will try to remove and clean the sensor window.
Thanks

liquidguitars
02-26-2007, 01:58 AM
get a mirror and take a look under the truck at the sensor,
I could see the dust on the "inside" of the glass and I was only getting about 40 lumes after cleaning the outside.

When removing screws for the first time on the unit, try removing the screw 1/8 at a time and retighten to remove any loctite or gunk, the screws will reinstall better.

Liq

Dartman
02-26-2007, 01:05 PM
70 degrees in the shop - still clear board sensor. Pulled the sensor and it was clean so reinstalled (and cleaned up all the internal sawdust while at it). Tried again - still "clear board sensor". Tried the tests per manual - still nada. I actually don't see any light at all from the sensor and readings remain at a constant "0".
So now I have a call in to tech spt with 7 ahead so waiting on a callback. Any ideas on what the problem is?

Dan-Woodman
02-26-2007, 05:31 PM
Try putting a piece of masking tape across the width of the board right under the sensor.
sometimes if your wood is too dark it has trouble measureing it.

The Bard
02-26-2007, 05:35 PM
when you pull the sensor out, check how much slack you have in the wires. If you have more than about an inch, it might be getting wadded up under the sensor. take off the cover and check to top wires as well. They should be coming from the top of the little channel they're in, and not the side. That would pinch and short out the wires.

but of course, I'm an idiot.

Dartman
02-26-2007, 09:05 PM
The wires were checked when I pulled the sensor and there was no slack. The sensor was absolutely clean but shot it with air just for GP. Pulled the top cover and checked the wire channel in back and it was fine - no kinks, pinchs or crimps and movable in the channel. This is not an easy machine to work on with big hands.

When I FINALLY got someone in tech spt on the phone today we went thru the same drill I went thru several times in doing the sensor checks. The sensor would not budge from "0". Moved the heads, shook them, etc - no change.

Now the bad/good part -
I spoke with Hope in tech spt and she said to send the sensor back for replacement. I have no problem with this except one doesn't spend $1800 on a machine and have to pay to ship back defective parts for replacement after only 2 weeks in my possesion. It may be only a buck or 2 but principle prevents me from doing it. I informed Hope of this and she said I could speak with a supervisor to which I said ok. She came back on the line a few minutes later and said they would just ship the replacement sensor and I can toss the defective one (which I won't just yet).
Hope checked and said the sensors were IN stock so I shall see how long it takes to get here. Should they send a prepaid envelope I would be glad to return the defective part.
I should note that I did several projects in the 2 weeks Ive had the machine for a total of maybe 4 hours run time. I continue to use the same white oak so taping anything is not a solution. The sensor was clean so my guess is the PCB is defective.
I plan to remain with the ranks of the PATIENT because I think this machine has great potential however if the replacement sensor doesn't fix the problem or if other problems creep in then the alternative is to return the unit to Sears. I think the company developed a great product but without parts stock, quality control and a timely support function the negatives will outweigh the positives. In reading thru many posts here and the number of units being returned I'm surprised Sears continues to sell this item without demanding that the bugs be completely fixed.
Additionally - I find no indication on the unit that it has been inspected or tested. A good QC program would go far in eliminating a lot of the problems.

Thanks for the replies so far and if BARD is reading this I'd appreciate if you could check and advise when the sensor will ship - the ser# of my unit is AS.003.382

Thanks.

The Bard
02-27-2007, 12:23 AM
Shipping isn't my bag baby....

you can call and ask the girls there though, they're the ones who have the powah.

Bill
02-27-2007, 07:11 AM
Hello Dartman,
Just wondering this sticker I think says (QC Passed) :confused:
Dartman said;

Additionally - I find no indication on the unit that it has been inspected or tested. A good QC program would go far in eliminating a lot of the problems.


http://www.wrw1.com/passed.jpg

Dartman
02-27-2007, 08:29 AM
Oy yea - double checked and found a little QC sticker at the bottom end on mine. Thanks for pointing out the location.

If one of the LHR insiders is reading this how about giving us a little synopsis of the CW/CC QC program. I would expect that it's more then some chinalady at the end of the line powering it up to check that the LED works and motor runs. That said - if these units carry a QC Passed sticker then why so many problems as posted thruout this forum? Furthermore, if a unit is QC Passed how can it be DOA?

CallNeg151
02-27-2007, 10:23 AM
Just a guess, but based on what I've been reading, and the clock on my machine when I received it, I suspect that the QC involves not just a visual inspection, but a 20 minute run of some sort (the units seem to ship new with 20 minutes on the odometer). What exactly the test consists of is anybody's guess, other than the folks at the factory.

The good new and bad news: A short check like this should eliminate most of the errors that would cause a machine to be DOA. The bad news is that this check would not uncover components that will fail after several hours of use, which is more common than in many other types of products given the dirty environment, the extreme high frequency vibration they are subjected to, and the likely existence of power quality problems inside the workshop.

The other bad news is that I suspect many machines are subjected to abuse once they leave the factory and before they reach the customer. The box I received my unit in, shipped straight to my Sears store, was clearly dropped on its end (but not too hard, guestimating from the crushing). I wouldn't be surprised if many of the units are dropped by the time they reach the customer. This can cause slight variances in a machine that needs a high degree of precision to operate.

Even more bad news beyond that is the fact that the CarveWright is the bastard love child of a power tool and a computer, with the weaknesses of both. Very few people in their right mind would set up a computer where many of us set up our CarveWrights, because the environment is just too harsh. Between static, brownouts, and power spikes caused by any other equipment we may have (or even the CW itself!), the components are subjected to a lot of abuse. As a general rule, most power tools are nothing more than an electric motor hooked up to a gear system. A big power spike is unlikely to cause damage because the wires are thick, and the circuitry is very simple. The same spike that doesn't damage your plunge router, will, however, completely fry the computer circuits of a CW. Although it's just a guess, I wouldn't be surprised if power issues are causing a moderate percentage of errors, especially ones that deal with the internal computer.

I don't work for CW, but I used to provide tech support and was trained in power quality analysis. I hope CW survives the tsunami of customers. The CW really is an innovative machine, with some first-generation quirks.

Jeff_Birt
02-27-2007, 10:35 AM
I used to work for an alarm system manufacturer. We built and tested EVERY circuit board here in the USA. When assembled they were tested on an automated testing machine, the boards were put in an enviromental chamber for 8 hours (two hours at 40 deg F / 2 hours at 130 deg F). They were tested again on the ATM, assembeld and then tested again.

Guess what, we still had a few that failed shortly after being installed and even a few DOA's. Not many in the scheme of things but a few. Sometimes they were damaged in installation or by lightning. Sometimes UPS would be a little to rough with the box. Sometimes a component would fail, but we repaired them under warrenty no matter what.

It's obvious that SOME machines are having problems, the vast majoity are not. My point is rampant speculation, assumtions (a ss-out-of-you-and-me) and complaining won't solve these problems. It's a good machine, and more importantly both CW and Sears are standing behind it...


Now, let's make some chips...

Julie Coffey
02-27-2007, 10:36 AM
Even more bad news beyond that is the fact that the CarveWright is the bastard love child of a power tool and a computer, with the weaknesses of both.




I really have to watch drinking coffee while reading posts here first thing in the morning. But Neg you forgot to mention its also the 'runt' of the litter. Nothing necessarily bad in that, I've raised several champions what started life that way. Just takes a bit extra effort thats all.

BTW Have I said lately how much I love my machine? That BARD guy though- juries still out on that one ::winks::

J

Dartman
02-27-2007, 12:36 PM
Back to the board sensor - which by the way was a PITA to get out -
I did notice that the PCB was somewhat loose on the piece. Is this normal or should the PCB be solidly mounted with no play?

Jeff_Birt
02-27-2007, 01:27 PM
Yeah the PCB is a bit wiggly, but that is not a problem AFAIK.

TurtleCove
10-16-2008, 02:47 PM
Dartman....did the replacement fix your issue?

HelpBot3000
10-16-2008, 03:44 PM
TurtleCove,

Are you currently having an issue with your board sensor? This thread is an oldie but a goodie. One thing I never saw that I recommend with low board sensor readings is to disconnect the board sensor from the bottom of the Y truck and the board sensor wires at the head termination board and CAREFULLY move the assembly back and forth almost like you are flossing your teeth. This will knock loose any debris and sawdust that might have compacted further up in the truck. It also allows you to see more of the wires than usual and you can inspect for damage or kinks.

TurtleCove
10-16-2008, 06:58 PM
Well, this is the first time I've tried cutting a thin piece of stock (1/4"), and the first time I've used a sled. I think it's having issues with "seeing" the masking tape that I'm using to fasten the thin board, to the sled.

I say this, because if I use a board without the sled, I do not get a "clear board" error.

I'll do some more reading up here, but perhaps it's not a good idea to put masking tape at the end of my board....I'll read.

Amonaug
10-16-2008, 07:05 PM
Well, this is the first time I've tried cutting a thin piece of stock (1/4"), and the first time I've used a sled. I think it's having issues with "seeing" the masking tape that I'm using to fasten the thin board, to the sled.

I say this, because if I use a board without the sled, I do not get a "clear board" error.

I'll do some more reading up here, but perhaps it's not a good idea to put masking tape at the end of my board....I'll read.

A "Check Board" error is different than a "Clear Board Sensor" Error. Check board usually means that a roller was released before it was expecting it, or the brass roller lost contact, etc usually due to a cup or bow in the board. Since you are using a sled make sure there are no raised areas that would add or lose pressure on the rollers or edges that are catching on the rails. Maybe the sides aren't paralell.

The sides and ends of the sled must be equal in height or greater than the board you are carving.

briansr
07-31-2009, 12:26 PM
posted this on troubleshoot also

i get a clear board sensor when i press 7 to measure the board
checked all the sensors, and numbers are moving.. the sensor is tracking when i spin it.. and "board sensor" goes from 0-16 when i lower/raise the machine itself while cranking the handle

i removed the board sensor and cleaned it up, so its not a cleaning issue

the error i get is CLEAR BOARD SENSOR