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View Full Version : Y axis is off..strange



scootertrash
07-06-2014, 01:25 PM
Machine has prolly 50 hours on it and I noticed the carving is deeper near the front (keypad side) of the machine and shallower towards the other end. It's off by about 1/16th". It's very consistent about doing that. It's definitely not the wood and I don't see any bumps or anything on the feed belts, and I don't see where the belt has had an edge slip in. It's as though the wood is 16th thinner on the back side of the machine (it's not the wood)

I've done a bit of searching the forums and couldn't find anything.

Is there a way to adjust the rail or something? I'm really hoping something just need tightening or an adjustment.

/Still loving the machine and I have an order for 28 plaques :-)

scootertrash
07-06-2014, 01:31 PM
Ah, i think I'm not being very level headed about it (pun intended)

https://www.carvewright.com/assets/service/Service_instructions/CarveWright_service_level_head.pdf

unitedcases
07-06-2014, 01:34 PM
I take two pieces of wood at the same thickness. I actually break out the calipers and check. When you put the head down have those under the outside frame. Outboard of the rollers. That way you can check level all the way around. Then just disconnected the connecting rod on the bottom if needed and move one side up or down.

scootertrash
07-06-2014, 01:37 PM
Spiffy idea.

I noticed this start to happen a while ago but it was so minimal I didn't bother with it. It's clearly getting worse so something prolly isn't tightened properly.

And hell, it was about time I made of right of passage of opening it up. Sounds like about a two beer job.

Digitalwoodshop
07-06-2014, 02:01 PM
Another trick is to use the bit a set of boards and let the LCD tell you the readings...

Place 2 short boards in machine. One on each side and crank down.

Turn on machine and pull the Z head up to the upper pin and hold. This is the starting point for 0000.

With a bit in the machine use user options and sensor data and z data. It will read 0000 when turned on so upper pin for 0000 at that point.

Touch the board each side and read LCD....

To Adjust POWER OFF Unplugged remove bottom and the LHR Procedure above to remove one side of the cross connect and adjust one side up or down. A Loose screw holding the 45 degree gears causes one side to skip a tooth....

Jacking Screw Nuts have been known to strip...

Good Luck,

AL

DON't get SHOCKED.... with cover off bottom.

scootertrash
07-06-2014, 02:15 PM
Another trick is to use the bit a set of boards and let the LCD tell you the readings...

Place 2 short boards in machine. One on each side and crank down.

Turn on machine and pull the Z head up to the upper pin and hold. This is the starting point for 0000.

With a bit in the machine use user options and sensor data and z data. It will read 0000 when turned on so upper pin for 0000 at that point.

Touch the board each side and read LCD....

To Adjust POWER OFF Unplugged remove bottom and the LHR Procedure above to remove one side of the cross connect and adjust one side up or down. A Loose screw holding the 45 degree gears causes one side to skip a tooth....

Jacking Screw Nuts have been known to strip...

Good Luck,

AL

DON't get SHOCKED.... with cover off bottom.

Replies like this are why i love posting here. Thanks, Al.

As far as getting shocked goes, I once got zapped by a CRT cap bank that flat out launched me straight back out of my chair. When I came to a few seconds later my chest felt like I had been punched and as i raised my head my feet were about 6 feet from where I had been sitting and the chair was knocked over perfectly backwards. That was almost 30 years ago and it would probably kill me now. Bring on the 110v, I laugh in its face!!!

Digitalwoodshop
07-06-2014, 02:23 PM
Your Welcome.... I worked in a Sony CRT Plant in 95 and the CRT's are a big Capacitor with carbon painted on the inside and outside the glass. My area had 2 Fanuc Robots with 4 inch paint rollers. Once you discharge the CRT it will self build up a charge and get you again.... Usually 20 to 40 Kv..

When my Cross Connect Screw snapped last week... I use the 2 wood blocks to crank down on both the same then used a screw twice as long to fix the snapped plastic screw hole stud...

ASK BUD (RIP) had a simple check for Head Level... Strips of paper on each side on a board and crank down.. TUG Paper... LOOSE.... High Side.... :)

AL

scootertrash
07-06-2014, 02:33 PM
Your Welcome.... I worked in a Sony CRT Plant in 95 and the CRT's are a big Capacitor with carbon painted on the inside and outside the glass. My area had 2 Fanuc Robots with 4 inch paint rollers. Once you discharge the CRT it will self build up a charge and get you again.... Usually 20 to 40 Kv..

When my Cross Connect Screw snapped last week... I use the 2 wood blocks to crank down on both the same then used a screw twice as long to fix the snapped plastic screw hole stud...

ASK BUD (RIP) had a simple check for Head Level... Strips of paper on each side on a board and crank down.. TUG Paper... LOOSE.... High Side.... :)

AL

I don't need to do the paper test, the back side is the high side. Don't need to be no rocket surgeon to figure that out! :D

scootertrash
07-06-2014, 03:30 PM
The jamb nut on the keypad side is horribly loose.

"Tightening the left side is essentially the same except that you need to watch the cables that are attached to the side panel. " Yeah, not so much the same. :evil: My crescent wrench can barely get in there so I reckon I'll tighten it up best I can then make the adjustment per the maintenance article.

I'll say one thing about the CW - it ain't for sissies! :D

unitedcases
07-06-2014, 06:39 PM
The keypad side will have slop. Was mentioned somewhere on here before. I usually just adjust the non keypad side. I don't even know what to tell you to use as a keyword to find that on this forum. Maybe someone will chime in?