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mtylerfl
06-29-2014, 08:27 PM
Visit the following thread for pics of a way to create cool lithophanes with your CarveWright Rotary Jig! A very unique product to $ell, indeed!

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?25779-polling-those-who-have-had-the-rotary-jig-for-a-while&p=231048#post231048

tierman
06-30-2014, 06:57 AM
Visit the following thread for pics of a way to create cool lithophanes with your CarveWright Rotary Jig! A very unique product to $ell, indeed!

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?25779-polling-those-who-have-had-the-rotary-jig-for-a-while&p=231048#post231048
Michael, Wished that I could have seen your presentation . Very cool! It does bring up a question. PVC melts very easy, is there a limit to the depth that you can carve and what carve quality should be used?

mtylerfl
06-30-2014, 08:33 AM
Michael, Wished that I could have seen your presentation . Very cool! It does bring up a question. PVC melts very easy, is there a limit to the depth that you can carve and what carve quality should be used?

Thank you. I wish you could have attended the presentation as well.

I initially had concerns about the PVC pipe, too. I wondered whether it would melt and ball up around the bit, cause stall errors, etc. But, tried it anyway! I'm pleased to report it carves perfectly without any problems whatsoever! The depth I did on this sample was only 0.170" and I'm confident you could go a little deeper, but I doubt that would be necessary. In fact, I think you could go shallower in many cases.

Other notable items:

• I used the standard 1/16" Carving Bit. It was not necessary to use a long-reach bit because this is such a shallow carve.

• I used Floyd's DC hood (http://store.carvewright.com/product.php?productid=22767&cat=304&page=1) during the project run...I had zero problems with stray plastic debris at all. In fact, there were only 3 little curls of plastic left on the traction belt after the project had completed (It took approx. 2 hours on BEST)

• I believe dust collection to be essential for carving lithos whether flat or rotary

After removing from the machine, there might be some plastic barely holding onto the pipe by tiny threads. I first tried brushing with a soft wire brush, but that is no good! The metal brushes tend to leave gray smudges on the plastic. So I set off to Wally-World to find a stiff nylon toothbrush. I spotted a Denture Brush and turned out it works great to brush off the litho after carving! See photo...

tierman
06-30-2014, 10:50 AM
Thank you Michael, I like the additional options this opens!

SteveNelson46
06-30-2014, 11:45 AM
Michael

Where/how did you get the picture of the Mona Lisa for carving?

cestout
06-30-2014, 12:35 PM
Thank you profusely! You have given us many good Ideas over the years, but I think this is at the top.
Clint

mtylerfl
06-30-2014, 01:31 PM
Thanks! I believe the photo came from Wikipedia. There was a retouched photo that got rid of all the cracked paint that is obvious in the original painting (due to natural aging). I opted to use the retouched version because it looked better to me as a litho.

You could probably find and carve all manner of fine art lithos and would be a lot of fun. However, it could be the best market is doing wedding photos, newborn photos, 50th Anniversary, graduations and family photos.

Idea: Create an "array" of tubular lithos of slightly varying lengths for a Family Litho with Dad, Mom and the kids. I am thinking a slot cut in a wooden base with holes for each pipe to slide into. The base might house a Led strip or even a tube light of some kind to light up all the pipes.

ladjr
06-30-2014, 11:31 PM
Michael

I have been thinking about carving PVC ever since I got the Rotary Jig. What size PVC did you use and thickness.

Thanks

mtylerfl
07-01-2014, 02:09 PM
Michael

I have been thinking about carving PVC ever since I got the Rotary Jig. What size PVC did you use and thickness.

Thanks

Hi Leo,

I used Standard 3" PVC Pipe (0.25" wall thickness) from Lowes or Home Depot. Remember that 3" pipe is the INSIDE diameter...the actual OUTSIDE diameter is 3.5" and that's the diameter dimension you use for the project setup and input at the machine when performing the project run.

I initially made the mistake of buying 4" pipe (which was 4.5" outside diameter). Of course, that is 0.25" too big to fit into the machine. I "told on myself" during my conference presentation. Got a good laugh from the audience...seems I was the only one in the room that did not know that PVC pipe size is always the INSIDE diameter. So, you can use 3" pipe or smaller. (I also bought a bunch of 2" pipe for some other projects I have in mind for the rotary.)

ladjr
07-01-2014, 02:13 PM
Thanks Mike. I did not know about the inside diameter either. Oh well if that is your first mistake this year your doing great

edzbaker
07-01-2014, 04:12 PM
Michael,
I have carved 2" PVC with "my" Rotary Jig on several occasions, but never to make a litho. It does carve well. I just cut a piece of wood to snugly plug the end, and center drilled it.

Ed

mtylerfl
07-01-2014, 05:04 PM
Hi Ed,

The wood plug will work great and that's what I initially thought I would use. However, while browsing the plumbing department, I noticed the very handy-dandy drain caps for the 3" and 2" pipes, so I bought those. I thought I would need to secure the drain caps at each pipe end with screws or something, but the friction fit is so tight, there was no need.

I did securely hot-glue a block of wood inside the one drain cap at the screw-end of the jig. This was so it could accept the jig's center screw and one or two of the additional screws for that end. The 3" drain caps at Home Depot have a 7/32" round hole dead-center in the drain cap, so you don't have to draw a centered criss-cross to drill a hole yourself. The hole is the perfect size for the Rotary Jig screw-end and cone-end! (The drain caps from Lowes are a different manufacturer and don't have a round hole...it's a square instead. I used one of those for the finished topper of the pipe as a sort of vent and allow ambient light to "seep" through the top.)

The drain caps used for mounting to the jig are reusable indefinitely, which is nice.

SteveJ
07-05-2014, 06:50 PM
Michael T,
Your rotary litho came out great. You mentioned dust collection being required and I remembered reading about you trying a new design to utilize a harbor freight dust collector. How did that work for you? I thought the idea worth trying but thought I would check with you before I looked up the thread and tried it.
Thanks!
Steve

Geomoo1
07-06-2014, 11:15 PM
Michael, I have been trying to find the 3" drain caps with the 7/32" round hole you found at HD and it seems they don't have them here. Can you by chance tell us the brand name on these (Oatey, etc) so I might find them on the net or maybe a plumbing supply around here? Thank you for opening up new ways to use our machines.

mtylerfl
07-07-2014, 05:21 PM
Michael, I have been trying to find the 3" drain caps with the 7/32" round hole you found at HD and it seems they don't have them here. Can you by chance tell us the brand name on these (Oatey, etc) so I might find them on the net or maybe a plumbing supply around here? Thank you for opening up new ways to use our machines.

Hi George,

Mine is stamped "Sioux Chief Manuf."

mtylerfl
07-07-2014, 05:28 PM
Michael T,
Your rotary litho came out great. You mentioned dust collection being required and I remembered reading about you trying a new design to utilize a harbor freight dust collector. How did that work for you? I thought the idea worth trying but thought I would check with you before I looked up the thread and tried it.
Thanks!
Steve

Hi Steve,

Here is a link to the forum where my friend Angie (zeeway) came up with this modification. I am SUPER pleased with the performance!! (along with Floyd's DC Insert).

I cut the parts on the ShopBot because the circles were 24" diameter. You could easily do that with a jig saw and/or jig on your table saw or bandsaw. There are grooves inset within the circles to accommodate the round baffle (weather stripping goes in these grooves to seal the unit). A regular router could do the grooves.

SteveNelson46
07-07-2014, 05:34 PM
Michael,

What Link?

mtylerfl
07-07-2014, 08:52 PM
Michael,

What Link?

Oops...sorry...had a 7pm meeting to go to. Was in a rush and failed to paste the link. Here it is now:

http://forum.vectric.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=18931

blhutchens
07-07-2014, 09:44 PM
Michael, I have been trying to find the 3" drain caps with the 7/32" round hole you found at HD and it seems they don't have them here. Can you by chance tell us the brand name on these (Oatey, etc) so I might find them on the net or maybe a plumbing supply around here? Thank you for opening up new ways to use our machines.

I just bought all of em the had at the lake worth store you might try another HD.
Or go on their web site and search and find a store that has them in stock

Geomoo1
07-08-2014, 12:46 AM
I just bought all of em the had at the lake worth store you might try another HD.
Or go on their web site and search and find a store that has them in stock
Thanks blhutchens,
I checked online and they did have some of them at a store less than a mile from my house. I will be picking them up tomorrow. I don't know why I couldn't find them the first time I looked there.

blhutchens
07-26-2014, 09:43 PM
Just carved a couple of these from 1 1/2" pvc.
i used the cheap night lights from wally world. I had to cut the factory cover down on the band saw and they slide right over.

blhutchens
07-26-2014, 09:48 PM
3" pvc carve. Still learning the depth/height to keep from carving through.

Bigtyme
07-27-2014, 08:08 AM
Nice job, bl. The nightlight cover is a really cool idea. Thanks for sharing....

skeeterman
07-27-2014, 09:09 AM
are you using the drain caps from home depot on ends when carving? and if so how are you removing them from pipe after carving. i put them in on both ends of the pvc pipe and they are both stuck inside the pipe, did not use glue or anything just hand pressed them in . just curious .
steve

mtylerfl
07-27-2014, 02:15 PM
Remove one end cap by loosening the jig cone end, then pull the pipe straight away from the screwed-on end of the jig. That takes care of the first end cap.

After that, just insert a 2x2 scrap length of wood and gently tap the other cap out.

mtylerfl
07-27-2014, 02:17 PM
Just carved a couple of these from 1 1/2" pvc.
i used the cheap night lights from wally world. I had to cut the factory cover down on the band saw and they slide right over.

Fantastic! Great idea and you are doing an excellent job!

mtylerfl
07-27-2014, 02:18 PM
3" pvc carve. Still learning the depth/height to keep from carving through.

Try Height of 450 and cutting depth of no more than 0.18" (you may be able to get away with 0.125" but do a litho preview of various settings on a FLAT project to get an idea of the appearance before cutting and setting the depth/height on your Rotary project layout).

blhutchens
07-27-2014, 02:31 PM
thanks for the pointers, It seems as though the pvc is thicker in some spots than others.

PSQRD
07-27-2014, 03:57 PM
Just finished my litho carve after 2 failed attempts thanks to Michael's input. I'm at lowes as I post this trying to find the lighting hardware. I'll load up photos once I get home - can't figure out how to do it on phone.
-Paul

mtylerfl
07-27-2014, 09:15 PM
Just finished my litho carve after 2 failed attempts thanks to Michael's input. I'm at lowes as I post this trying to find the lighting hardware. I'll load up photos once I get home - can't figure out how to do it on phone.
-Paul

That's good news, Paul. Can't wait to see your photos when you get a chance to post them.

Here's a link to the LED puck light I used. It features a "touch pad" that toggles the light 'Dim - Bright - Off' when touched. I extended the pad by using some aluminum duct tape fastened to the pad and routed to the sharp end of an upholstery tack pushed through a tiny hole drilled through the .25"-thick wall of the pipe.


http://www.lowes.com/pd_545348-75774-L73905_0+2z8vl+2z8vm__?productId=50150158&Ntt=puck+light&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dpuck%2Blight%26page%3D1&facetInfo=$15

Utilitech 3-in Plug-In Cabinet LED Puck Light $24.98
Item #: 545348 | Model #: L73905

PSQRD
07-29-2014, 07:40 PM
That idea sounds awesome! I tried figuring out the picture of hardware listed. The only puck lights I found were corded and click type, I bought a tubular led light hoping to make that work since I couldn't wrap my head around the click type and wanted wireless. Tube light looked terrible, not bright enough I'm going to return it and go for your lighting option. Do you have any pics or a simple drawing maybe on the set up you explained? I have a really bad tendency to be over analytical.
Paul

mtylerfl
07-29-2014, 08:00 PM
Hi Paul,

Here's a couple pics I hope will be helpful. (This lighting system is corded. I did not want to fuss with disassembly to change batteries ad infinitum.)

karossii
08-01-2014, 01:53 PM
Hi Steve,

Here is a link to the forum where my friend Angie (zeeway) came up with this modification. I am SUPER pleased with the performance!! (along with Floyd's DC Insert).

I cut the parts on the ShopBot because the circles were 24" diameter. You could easily do that with a jig saw and/or jig on your table saw or bandsaw. There are grooves inset within the circles to accommodate the round baffle (weather stripping goes in these grooves to seal the unit). A regular router could do the grooves.
Michael, I use that same DC, with Floyd's insert - but I haven't modified the DC at all. Following the link and reading the other forum, I see good info on how to do the mod, but nothing on WHY. Is there a specific benefit to removing the bags and altering the DC?

mtylerfl
08-01-2014, 03:57 PM
I did it because my understanding is the Thein Baffle (just an arced slot in the base inside the circular chamber) is very efficient in separating larger particles from the fine dust particles. It appears to be so. It creates a "tornado" similar to a variety of other DC add-ons you can purchase online (they often look like funnels). Also, the large capacity debris collector (30 gal trash can) is nice. So far, I'm impressed - it appears that the overall efficiency is improved over the "stock" configuration. This is based partly on what I have been told by Angie and 'comparison conversations' with others who use it as-is.

I, unfortunately, never used the Harbor Freight DC as "stock", so I have no personal comparison to share whether the modification really is a "huge" or just a "minor" improvement.

karossii
08-01-2014, 06:02 PM
So... making sure I understand the benefit/improvement... it separates the larger and finer dust particles more readily. Assuming I am using an ultrafine bag to filter out all particles, why would I care if the particles are separated?

I can definitely see the benefits of a larger collector, for some. For me, I haven't even come close to filling the original bag once, so not an issue for me yet. And as to overall efficiency, do you feel it improves how well it removes dust at the working end?

mtylerfl
08-01-2014, 07:07 PM
Without a separator, my understanding is the fine filter bag will need emptying and cleaning more frequently. Perhaps that's a minor benefit. I decided I needed a DC primarily because I plan on carving more Corian, PVC and various plastic sign materials. These materials create larger/heavier debris than wood does and are difficult for some DC setups to "lift" those types of heavier particles. It is especially important to clear out plastic particles because they can find their way into the gears/belts and cause axis stalls. Also, plastic debris won't "squish" like wood does when being fed through the pressure rollers. Sharp plastic particles (from hard surface material like Corian) can become embedded in the rubber rollers and you can never get them out. So a DC unit of some kind is almost a requirement when carving plastics.

I initially wasn't so concerned about fine dust (although I SHOULD have been!). I simply wanted the most efficient way to clear away the 'big stuff' and when I saw and read about Angie's Harbor Freight DC modification, I thought I would give it a go. Not so surprisingly, I now find I have the best of both worlds...the heavier plastic is carried away efficiently and into the garbage bin, as well as the fine dust pulled into the micron bag (which is still pretty clean - I guess that baffle is allowing most of the fine stuff to fall into the bin, too).

karossii
08-01-2014, 07:30 PM
Thanks! I have the DC and Floyd's (older) insert, and have carved two lithos in corian and one in a poly cutting board, and it seemed more than adequate to the job in stock configuration. So I might think about it in the future, but it doesn't seem a crucial upgrade for me.

mtylerfl
08-01-2014, 07:48 PM
I think you'll be just fine, too. Floyd's DC hood is known for working very well. The Harbor Freight modification is a fairly major departure from the norm, and you really have to be "in the mood" to do something like that. (Took me a few months to finally get the gumption to do it.)
*

cestout
08-02-2014, 12:15 PM
I had a trash can particle separator in line with my DC, but had to remove it. It cut the sucking power way down. I am pulling from 2 machines.
Clint

mtylerfl
08-02-2014, 03:27 PM
I had a trash can particle separator in line with my DC, but had to remove it. It cut the sucking power way down. I am pulling from 2 machines.Clint

I seem to recall you are using the same Harbor Freight unit? Man, this thing I have here is MORE than powerful! Will suck your fingers right off if you get your hand in the way. ;) Perhaps the modification does indeed create a lot more "ooomph" over the stock configuration. Wish I had assembled and used the HB unit "before mod"...that way I would know for sure.

SteveNelson46
08-02-2014, 08:24 PM
Hi Steve,

Here is a link to the forum where my friend Angie (zeeway) came up with this modification. I am SUPER pleased with the performance!! (along with Floyd's DC Insert).

I cut the parts on the ShopBot because the circles were 24" diameter. You could easily do that with a jig saw and/or jig on your table saw or bandsaw. There are grooves inset within the circles to accommodate the round baffle (weather stripping goes in these grooves to seal the unit). A regular router could do the grooves.

Michael,

I really like your design better than the one that I built. I have one question: How do you lift the unit to empty the trash can?

mtylerfl
08-03-2014, 07:38 AM
Michael,I really like your design better than the one that I built. I have one question: How do you lift the unit to empty the trash can?

Ha! I was worried about that when I built it...it came out heavier than what I thought. However, it turns out I am still strong enough to lift that baby onto the top of the can. Glad it's a 30 gal can, as I don't want to have to lift it off/on too often. I am thinking of installing a clear tall plexiglass "window" or maybe a door (Angie did something like that) so I can see when it needs emptying instead of guessing.

I have not emptied it yet and don't know how much debris is in there, at the moment. All I know is that it sucks up everything.Angie installed a few large eye hooks on the top disc for the purpose of attaching some type of rope or chain lift mechanism for his. Another thought...I could make a small door opening near the bottom to vacuum the stuff out with one of my Shop Vacs, instead of lifting off the assembly.

PSQRD
09-30-2014, 08:28 PM
Michael, I know I said I would upload my photos shortly there after - I took a short hiatus. Here's the finished photo of the rotary litho you helped me complete. I ended up using the Lowe's end cap modified to hold the puck light in the base, couldn't find the touch sensitivity lights so opted for the regular plug ins. I used the simple $.70 cap from lowe's for the top super glued on - unfortunately didn't take any finished photos but the idea is there. I didn't like how much light passed through the top or the fact that it still looked and felt like pvc so I roughed it up and used some Alabaster stone finish paint to give it a textured look. If I can get some finished photos I'll upload them, paint took a while to dry but was well worth the effect. I just wanted to say thank you again for the input - I have a few other ideas in store floating around to do with the rotary lithos, if/when I get them done I'll be sure to let you know when I post them.
Paul
71987719887198971990

karossii
09-30-2014, 09:48 PM
Paul, that looks awesome! To clarify, it looks like you masked off the litho, but not the text, when you painted. Is the text still as bright/visible? Does the litho section still look like carved PVC?

mtylerfl
09-30-2014, 09:52 PM
Paul,

Thank you for showing us the photos! The litho looks fantastic. Great idea to use that Alabaster stone finish paint.

I'm looking forward to seeing your other ideas, too!

Thanks again.

PSQRD
10-01-2014, 12:38 PM
Paul, that looks awesome! To clarify, it looks like you masked off the litho, but not the text, when you painted. Is the text still as bright/visible? Does the litho section still look like carved PVC?

That's correct I didn't tape off the letters when I painted the litho. I made a point of not hitting that area too hard but the finish closely resembled the rough finish left after carving the litho area, the letters still showed through fine when I finished. The textured finish idea came after the carving, I'm thinking of sanding and painting the pvc prior to carving next time around to see if it works out better - a little weary on effect on the bit, we'll see though. Thanks for the input and once I get a photo from the recipients I'll edit the post and add it in.

Tatay44
10-02-2014, 10:16 PM
Im using the ring neck with a harbor freight dust remover. It works good. Here is my first rotary lithophane. I've been doing lithophanes for the last four years. Settings are .17, with a rise of 200.72043

SharonB
10-03-2014, 12:30 AM
That turned out exceptionally well.
How are you mounting it and/or adding light. Here in Oregon I can't come up all the parts suggested by Michael. I just might have to carve a base and top.

rcdages
10-03-2014, 07:24 AM
Tatay44
Well done.

dltccf
10-03-2014, 11:50 AM
I really like the painting idea.

dave

Gary Koval
10-04-2014, 06:29 AM
Tatay44,
That really did turn out Saweet !!!
Gary

mtylerfl
10-06-2014, 04:09 PM
Tatay44,

That looks great! Excellent contrast and the photo looks really nice and clear. I'm so glad you are having fun making the rotary lithos!

Tatay44
10-09-2014, 11:13 AM
I use the 3in drain cover with a small piece of hard wood screwed down on to the rotary jig. Adding light is just using an accent light base with a 40 watt LED. The accent light base is 3.25 so you will have to lathe the bottom of your lithophane to fit snug. I did make a small fitted piece to go under it so it cant fall in.

sunmiztres
07-21-2015, 02:13 PM
I know this is an older thread but a few weeks ago I came across this thread. I had not yet bought the Rotary jig but this thread made me make up my mind and get one.Today I gave it ago with my first Litho Rotary carve using 3" PVC and I am Happy with the results, Very Happy. The only problem I see with the carve is the picture looks off as far as format. You know when you take a movie that was shot in widescreen and watch it in a standard format. The people look thin and taller then they should. That is the way the litho came out. MY brothers eyes look squinted as well as his smile. I was wondering with anything carved round do you need to pull the picture in designer to make it wider then normal so it looks normal when carved on the rotary jig? If so about how much does one need to make the picture wider so it looks normal. I hope I am explaining it correctly so you know what I mean. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

mtylerfl
07-21-2015, 03:10 PM
Howdy,

Photos may or may not distort noticeably when carving in the round. You can use the on-screen preview of the result to see if there is any objectionable distortion or not (the right side of the split screen). If you notice distortion, then you can easily adjust your photo dimension (via the left screen by squashing or pulling it horizontally or vertically) until the rotary preview looks good to you.

If you can, attach your mpc to this thread and we can take a look. If the file size is too large to post here, email it to me at carvebuddy (at) cs (dot) com

bergerud
07-21-2015, 04:40 PM
I know this is an older thread but a few weeks ago I came across this thread. I had not yet bought the Rotary jig but this thread made me make up my mind and get one.Today I gave it ago with my first Litho Rotary carve using 3" PVC and I am Happy with the results, Very Happy. The only problem I see with the carve is the picture looks off as far as format. You know when you take a movie that was shot in widescreen and watch it in a standard format. The people look thin and taller then they should. That is the way the litho came out. MY brothers eyes look squinted as well as his smile. I was wondering with anything carved round do you need to pull the picture in designer to make it wider then normal so it looks normal when carved on the rotary jig? If so about how much does one need to make the picture wider so it looks normal. I hope I am explaining it correctly so you know what I mean. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Maybe it is a illusion thing. A picture viewed at a side angle would look better if it was stretched. Maybe a little stretch would also help for these curved pictures.

Is that what you mean or do you think there was a scaling problem with the software? A dowel diameter mismatch?

sunmiztres
07-21-2015, 06:11 PM
Howdy,

Photos may or may not distort noticeably when carving in the round. You can use the on-screen preview of the result to see if there is any objectionable distortion or not (the right side of the split screen). If you notice distortion, then you can easily adjust your photo dimension (via the left screen by squashing or pulling it horizontally or vertically) until the rotary preview looks good to you.

If you can, attach your mpc to this thread and we can take a look. If the file size is too large to post here, email it to me at carvebuddy (at) cs (dot) com

I have carved the same picture on wood and it came out fine. I then carved it on the 3" PVC and his eyes and mouth look squinted when carved but not in the preview. I have include the MPC. Let me know what you think. Thank you

bergerud
07-21-2015, 09:58 PM
Can we see a picture of the litho?

sunmiztres
07-21-2015, 10:37 PM
Can we see a picture of the litho?

I just turned off my lights so I could get a good picture for you and it does seem to be better with it being night time and no lights on. I also put the puck light on top of the Litho instead of the bottom and the eyes look better. I have included the original picture so you can compare the eyes and mouth. What do you think?

bergerud
07-21-2015, 11:14 PM
I do not think it is distorted. I think you just did not use bit optimization best.

sunmiztres
07-21-2015, 11:19 PM
I do not think it is distorted. I think you just did not use bit optimization best.

I did use best as the bit optimization. Took 2 1/2 hours to carve. On the MPC you can see the bit setting. IT is an old picture from back in 1988. If you look at the eyes from the original to the litho you can see what I mean or it may just be me.

CNC Carver
07-22-2015, 06:00 AM
That looks very nice.
Jeff

bergerud
07-22-2015, 08:33 AM
I did use best as the bit optimization.

Ok, but on the mpc you posted Bit Optimization was none.

sunmiztres
07-22-2015, 09:18 AM
Ok, but on the mpc you posted Bit Optimization was none.

after I carved the original I went back to the MPC to see if unchecking "scale to fit board" would help and must not have not done the bit optimization again. It was optimized during the carve.

rcdages
07-22-2015, 12:08 PM
sunmiztres

Wonderful litho. Great carve.

sunmiztres
07-22-2015, 04:43 PM
sunmiztres

Wonderful litho. Great carve.

Thank you.

mikemi
07-22-2015, 06:06 PM
Personally I think it looks fine. I still haven't played around with carving pvc on the rotary jig but I have been reading all the posts about it here on the forum.

Mike