How to carve a large circle carve region accross small width boards to glueup??

[Lmcvey]

I'm really new to this!! I have a circle with a saying inside and a pattern of a horse. I have made the circle a carve region. The trick here is I have 5.250 wide boards and I want to carve across the 4 boards with this circle. They are 3.5 feet long. Can I carve this my software says it will not carve this because of staying under rollers the wide pattern I made will not carve right? Can anyone help here?? Ideas maybe. This is going on a table top I hope. I had a friend who passed and I am trying to help his son build a table. Thanks..

Larry..

mcvey.larry@gmail.com :confused:

[mtylerfl]

Hi Larry,

Perhaps this will help you understand how to do "big" (multi-part) projects like that:

My Big Sign Using The Tiling Technique – ISSUE 22 July 2009 (http://www.carvewright.com/assets/tips/CarveWrightTips_and_Tricks_Jul09.pdf)


And...absolutely make CERTAIN your project will run with the board(s) captive under BOTH rollers at all times. Failing to do so may cause you to have a very bad day. Here's another tutorial that may help explain that procedure (if you don't understand the procedure already):

Handy Tips for Everyone! – ISSUE 3 December 2007 (http://www.carvewright.com/assets/tips/CarveWright_Tips_and_Tricks_Dec07.pdf)

[tcough3475]

Larry - The link Michael T provided a link to a great example of how to do a large carve. I followed it for a large (36x48) sign and it worked well.

Best of luck and let us know how it turns out and post pictures.

[DickB]

I would glue two pairs of boards together, so each project board is now 11.5" wide, and split the project into two carves. On the edges of the boards that will be joined together, temporarily fasten a 1" wide sacrificial board to provide a surface under the rollers. The sacrificial board can be reused. Make your virtual board to be 12.5" wide, and place a zero-depth carve region 1" wide where the sacrificial board will be, so it will not be carved and will provide the necessary contact with the rollers.

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[Lmcvey]

I think I understand now I am going to give it a go. I am trying to help this kid he is trying to impress his girlfriend into marrying him.



Hi Larry,

Perhaps this will help you understand how to do "big" (multi-part) projects like that:

My Big Sign Using The Tiling Technique – ISSUE 22 July 2009 (http://www.carvewright.com/assets/tips/CarveWrightTips_and_Tricks_Jul09.pdf)


And...absolutely make CERTAIN your project will run with the board(s) captive under BOTH rollers at all times. Failing to do so may cause you to have a very bad day. Here's another tutorial that may help explain that procedure (if you don't understand the procedure already):

Handy Tips for Everyone! – ISSUE 3 December 2007 (http://www.carvewright.com/assets/tips/CarveWright_Tips_and_Tricks_Dec07.pdf)

[Digitalwoodshop]

Why the computer is telling you no is because the 2 rubber rollers press down on the top of the board holding it to the table. IF you carve all the way in width then the roller will fall into the carve region and the brass roller will loose contact with the board and BAD things will happen as the machine trys to move the board to the proper brass roller position. The Brass Roller on the keyboard side always touches the board and tells the computer it is in the proper position. It will DRIVE the Belts trying to get the proper reading and could damage the machine....

The work around..... Masking tape or hot glue two strips of wood to your 5 inch board and make you board in designer the total new width and center the project in width.... Remove the strips after... You can also make a Carrier Board or sled with side rails that the board sits in.... Check out Tips and Tricks for more good ideas...

AL

[Lmcvey]

I The kid brought me some cedar to make this table out of. He wants the writing in cursive. When running this the letters are chipping out and it seems like the letters are a little to deep. How do I correct this is there a way to adjust depth of lettering. And how do I stop the chip out??


Thanks..



Why the computer is telling you no is because the 2 rubber rollers press down on the top of the board holding it to the table. IF you carve all the way in width then the roller will fall into the carve region and the brass roller will loose contact with the board and BAD things will happen as the machine trys to move the board to the proper brass roller position. The Brass Roller on the keyboard side always touches the board and tells the computer it is in the proper position. It will DRIVE the Belts trying to get the proper reading and could damage the machine....

The work around..... Masking tape or hot glue two strips of wood to your 5 inch board and make you board in designer the total new width and center the project in width.... Remove the strips after... You can also make a Carrier Board or sled with side rails that the board sits in.... Check out Tips and Tricks for more good ideas...

AL

[DickB]

Post your mpc.

[Lmcvey]

This pattern is what I want to use the board is 10.125 wide by 3/4" thick by 42" long. I want to center this in the table. I know I have to carve a top and bottom of the pattern this is doing the bottom half of the carving. I will still have to attach boards to the top and bottom for the rollers. I have them cut but not attached to the boards yet. I tried carving this once and the letter was deeper than he wanted and I did not know how to adjust for that. The lettering had little chips across some of the letters. I'm using cedar wood for this. I thought maybe the wood was to soft to carve letters in cursive letters. Like I say I am very new to this and I have not read anything on this. Thanks..

[mtylerfl]

The cedar available in my area carves horribly. Very stringy, too soft, fuzzes like crazy and does not yield a good carve. I was very disappointed, as I've seen many, many gorgeous carves others have done in cedar. Not sure how many varieties of cedar are "out there" but I know there is "good" cedar somewhere (but not here locally).

Aside from that, your lettering is set too tall for this lettering raster carve. Do you have the Centerline Text and Conform options? If so, definitely use that instead of the raster carve and you'll be much happier with the result. If you're stuck with raster text at the moment, try adding some Draft and making the lettering sit lower in the carve region to reduce the height....but again, this is really best done with Centerline and Conform.

Also, be sure you upload to your card on the OPTIMAL setting to help reduce the chipout on the small lettering.

[DickB]

What Michael said.

I get very good results with Centerline and the locally available cedar.

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[blhutchens]

I have the same results from Texas cedar (I think it is a Juniper) as Michael.
Some of that may be due to moister content…..but Centerline works better on soft wood even ponderosa pine and fir that have been kiln dried chip out on rasters.
I have been using red oak for my raster carves with success.

[PDunn]

make the line disappear , what is the best way to make the Line joining boards in a carve disappear , I trimmed it then jointed the 2 halfs and glues and bisket the 2 halfs let it set after all done it looked good , Till stain was applied there it was a eye sore , I also applied wood filler and thought it would help , the filler bleeds thru , any ideas I used a dark maple stain