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kcc2012
06-06-2014, 03:56 PM
I just purchased some bass wood from a guy whose moving off island. His business is to make Icon panels for painting religious Icons on. One of the things he does is to make two dove tail cuts on the back and then he inserts oak braces in the cutout's. This is to prevent warping and cupping. My questions are; Are any of our bits capable of making dove tail cuts?, can we use a dove tail router bit purchased from a hardware store?.

Thank you
Ambrose Stapleton

DocWheeler
06-06-2014, 05:35 PM
Ambrose,

It could be done, but I believe it would be the wrong tool to use.
Even a small dovetail bit would require quite a bit of energy.
Perhaps in that soft wood you could get away with it,
but a router or table saw would be better I think.

You would have to buy a dovetail bit and tell the machine it
is perhaps a 3/8" or larger bit, one pass at full dovetail depth.

What would you use to create the piece that you would slip into the dovetail route?

kcc2012
06-06-2014, 10:50 PM
I have no idea I hadn't thought that far ahead. I was just curious but sounds like more trouble then it would be worth. One day Ill get a router and table and become a real wood worker.


What would you use to create the piece that you would slip into the dovetail route?[/QUOTE]

blhutchens
06-07-2014, 05:59 AM
It looks to me like you could achieve what he did with just a straight daddo, then you could cut the fillers with the table saw.
I have also just screwed and glued them on top.

Digitalwoodshop
06-07-2014, 06:14 AM
I remember watching NORM do a long dovetail and he first did a straight bit to remove the center material then went back and did a dovetail to final width and profile to take the pressure off the dovetail bit. This IS a Good Idea.... I would be careful with the GLUE in a Cross Grain and only glue a small section of the insert to prevent cracking with expansion and contraction. Norm's favorite saying.... "A Cross Grain Situatiuon"...

DocWheeler
06-07-2014, 10:58 AM
Ambrose,

Gathering tools is a life-long process, don't get cheap stuff for the main tools.
I did not get a good router and table until I was about seventy - too late to really enjoy it.
Never had a good table saw either; wish I had gotten one when I was much younger.
Since I worked with iron there was more need for tools to work with metals.

A router and table can do a great deal of things, don't put off getting them too long.
But, in reality, tools don't really make you a woodworker, a woodworker is a craftsman.
This can be seen by many of the posts on this and other forums.
Become a Craftsman with the tools you have and then buy other tools as needed.

kcc2012
06-07-2014, 11:20 AM
I agree Doc and I'm trying. At this point my tools are the CarveWright, a couple of hand saws, a small battery powered dermal tool and a skill saw. I have lots of tools to work on vehicles but I was never a wood worker.

want2b
06-07-2014, 03:56 PM
Ambrose,

Gathering tools is a life-long process, don't get cheap stuff for the main tools.
I did not get a good router and table until I was about seventy - too late to really enjoy it.
Never had a good table saw either; wish I had gotten one when I was much younger.
Since I worked with iron there was more need for tools to work with metals.

A router and table can do a great deal of things, don't put off getting them too long.
But, in reality, tools don't really make you a woodworker, a woodworker is a craftsman.
This can be seen by many of the posts on this and other forums.
Become a Craftsman with the tools you have and then buy other tools as needed.

Appropriately said, I was told " The tools don't make the man(craftsman), the man makes the tool". Most of the items we make today with sophisticated tools were made by true craftsmen with basic hand tools.
Rick H

Capt Bruce
06-07-2014, 05:38 PM
I'd consider buying a simple hand held router without too many bells and whistles. No router table necessary. Combined with a straight edge and the two router bits mentioned you'd be well on your way to making the sliding dovetail cuts you need as well as the ability to edge route profiles on plaques you make on the CW. Just for what it is worth.

blhutchens
06-07-2014, 09:51 PM
I agree Doc and I'm trying. At this point my tools are the CarveWright, a couple of hand saws, a small battery powered dermal tool and a skill saw. I have lots of tools to work on vehicles but I was never a wood worker.

I have built many pieces of furniture and cabinets with just a "skill saw" a hand plane and sand paper. it just takes longer.
Screwed the skill saw to a piece of plywood and plunged the blade through, flipped it over and presto a table saw.
Same thing with the router…………….

DocWheeler
06-08-2014, 08:54 AM
BL,

Totally agree; I had some second thoughts after I posted above since I did
much the same as you. My first saber-saw was a joke in many ways, cheap and small,
but it still works if I need it 56 years later. Still have my 55 yr old Skill saw also,
but finally got a left-handed model last year so the blade was on the side I could
see it when cutting right-handed.

I guess what I was trying to say was that as you go you will learn what tools to get.
Simply getting tools does not make you a woodworker, but Ambrose already knew that.

cestout
06-08-2014, 06:13 PM
It is not a good idea to firmly attach (screw and glue) in a cross grain situation. The idea for the full width dovetails (across the grain) is a really good one, but the strip that is slid into the dovetail can only be attached in one spot, allowing the main piece to expand and contract. Use a router table or a hand held router with a clamped on guide. The CarveWright, as versatile as it is, is not suited for this job. Norm taught me everything I know about wood movement.
Clint

kcc2012
06-08-2014, 06:34 PM
Im definitely learning and trying to learn more. All of you and this forum have helped me learn a whole lot and I'm looking forward to learning more.

What a neat idea to do with a skill saw. Since starting this thread I was given an old craftsman table saw. Its all made out of cast iron and it works, I just have to figure out how to use it.

DocWheeler
06-08-2014, 06:44 PM
Congratulations, the older Craftsman tools are better than the newer ones most of the time.

blhutchens
06-08-2014, 09:32 PM
Yes the old craftsman cast iron table saws are quite good, I had the 10" contractor saw for many years. Upgraded the arm to 36" and built a lot of cabinets with it until I upgraded to the Delta Unisaw with 51" arms and Bessmier fence. You can get those that bolt to craftsman. My brother has been using his for over 30 yrs.
They take up a lot of room so don't know if you really need all that but I did.

blhutchens
06-08-2014, 09:37 PM
It is not a good idea to firmly attach (screw and glue) in a cross grain situation. The idea for the full width dovetails (across the grain) is a really good one, but the strip that is slid into the dovetail can only be attached in one spot, allowing the main piece to expand and contract. Use a router table or a hand held router with a clamped on guide. The CarveWright, as versatile as it is, is not suited for this job. Norm taught me everything I know about wood movement.
Clint

I stand corrected…….If the wood is dry when it is assembled and sealed with the same number of coats on each side... not really an issue.

55president
06-09-2014, 07:11 AM
I have an inexpensive dovetail jig I bought at harbor freight and it's worked real well. In addition you need the dovetail bit and a spacer that attaches to the bottom of the router. all of this you can probably get for about $50.00.I've been through a few routers and the best one that has lasted me and I'm using now is a Porter Cable, bought on Ebay.