Cannot resolve Cover Open - wiring checked, new switch installed

[LarryLesniak]

Despite my best efforts my machine continues to give me fits. After running for a while I started getting "Cover Open" error messages. I checked the switch and wiring and found no visible issues so I removed the switch following the directions from the LR website. The switch tested OK on a multimeter but I decided to order a replacement anyway. When the new switch arrived I installed it and then ran a sensor test which showed "Open" no matter what I did with the switch. A search of the forum indicated that I should check for pinched wires, seating of the 14-pin cable and any damage to that cable, and the wiring of the switch. I checked all of these and couldn't find anything visibly wrong. At this point I have the new switch in the machine but no matter what I do I get a continuous "Cover Open" message preventing me from doing anything with the machine.

Is there anything I've missed or overlooked that might help resolve this situation? I checked the wiring back to the cut motor and couldn't find any problems, the switch is new and activating it by hand doesn't remove the "Cover Open" message. I need to run a small job and I'm running out of time given how long I've been troubleshooting this issue.

Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated!

Larry

[Mikewiz]

Check the pins on the board where the wires from the switch plugs in. I had bent one of them and that caused the closed cover for me. I carefully bent it back and it stills works to this day.

[DocWheeler]

Assuming the piece of plastic that operates the switch is intact and if the switch is positioned
to where you can hear it close when the cover is lowered then the problem would seem to be elsewhere.
Did you check for a bent/broken pin on the circuit board where that plug fits? Mike beat me!

I don't know if the switch is NO or NC, knowing that would help you trouble-shoot.

[SteveNelson46]

Despite my best efforts my machine continues to give me fits. After running for a while I started getting "Cover Open" error messages. I checked the switch and wiring and found no visible issues so I removed the switch following the directions from the LR website. The switch tested OK on a multimeter but I decided to order a replacement anyway. When the new switch arrived I installed it and then ran a sensor test which showed "Open" no matter what I did with the switch. A search of the forum indicated that I should check for pinched wires, seating of the 14-pin cable and any damage to that cable, and the wiring of the switch. I checked all of these and couldn't find anything visibly wrong. At this point I have the new switch in the machine but no matter what I do I get a continuous "Cover Open" message preventing me from doing anything with the machine.

Is there anything I've missed or overlooked that might help resolve this situation? I checked the wiring back to the cut motor and couldn't find any problems, the switch is new and activating it by hand doesn't remove the "Cover Open" message. I need to run a small job and I'm running out of time given how long I've been troubleshooting this issue.

Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated!

Larry

Did you check the switch on the other side of the cover? Also, try bypassing both switches, one at a time. It could also be the X termination board. I would replace the wire to the switch and the x-termination board. The problem is that the shipping will cost as much as the parts and take several days.

[fwharris]

Check to make sure you have the cover switch (switch on key board side of the cover) wire plugged in correctly. It is easy to get it turned upside down. I believe the white wire is on the top right as you are looking into the machine.

Also try moving/flexing the FFC cable while holding the cover switch in the closed position. Look for any indication of a crack or split in the FFC cable. Most often it is right at the black support bracket in the back.

[bergerud]

Have you or anyone else ever changed the board sensor? The wire can ground out inside the carriage and the result is the continuous close cover message. You could try disconnecting it at the top where it connects under the z motor. (near the FFC ribbon wire connection.)

[fwharris]

Have you or anyone else ever changed the board sensor? The wire can ground out inside the carriage and the result is the continuous close cover message. You could try disconnecting it at the top where it connects under the z motor. (near the FFC ribbon wire connection.)

Making Al proud!! :D

[bergerud]

I was going to say that, if it turns out to be the case, Al gets the credit!

[Digitalwoodshop]

Making Al proud!! :D

Thanks Guys.... And the next most possible thing.... The Left Cover Switch PLUG is plugged in 180 degrees out... White Wire in the bundle needs to face the center of the machine....

And like posted above, un plug the board sensor cable upper plug... Did close cover go away? IF so pinched wire.... Doing a Butt Floss with the cable with both ends un plugged can help dis lodge the pinch for a temp fix if that is it... But my money is on 180 out plug..

:)

AL

[kroskam]

I had the same problem quite a while ago, and bypassed the switch while I waited for a new one to arrive. I decided to keep the switch bypassed after I received the replacement because I can keep the door open when centering the bit on a board. It is much easier to see into the machine with the door open rather than closed, and as long as you close the door immediately when you are done, it is still safe. The door has two switches. One for the Open Door Error, and the other one for the Cut Motor. I bypassed the Door Error Switch (closest to the Keypad). Just remove the faulty switch and twist the wires together to form a closed circuit continuously. Make sure to seal the exposed wires so a short can not occur. If you bypass the Cut Motor Switch the Machine could operate with the door open. This could be unsafe. The white wire should be facing toward the inside of the machine, and make sure the wire is plugged in at the other end on the Circuit Board Side.

[LarryLesniak]

First, I'd like to thank everyone that responded to my call for help. This forum is by far the best part of owning one of these machines as there's always a willing body of fellow owners to help with any problem that may arise whether it's the machine or the pattern or just to help calm down a frustrated owner. I really appreciate the input!

Based on the suggestions above I tested both cover switches and found that the left switch wasn't really working. If pressed repeatedly it would give just a little blip now and then, not really allowing the machine to run but the "Cover Open" message would change for a fraction of a second then go back. Jumping the legs on the switch cleared the "Cover Open" which confirmed that the switch was bad so I ordered a replacement switch and will hopefully have my machine back up and running as soon as it arrives. One question on the install of the switch which I purchased WITH the wired attached. Do I just cut the existing wires and connect the new switch in so that I don't have to deal with the plastic connector to the head termination board? I assume this is the best way to approach the installation but thought I'd check here since my thread is open.

This troubleshooting gave me an opportunity to check some of the other parts of the machine, namely the head termination board and the FFC ribbon cable both of which appear to be OK even after my upgrade of the Z truck with the CarveTight spindle. I've tried to keep my machine clean and well maintained and hopefully I'll have a good run with it after this repair.

Thanks again to all of you for your wonderful support!

Larry

[cestout]

I would leave the existing wires in place since you proved that they are ok. Just unplug the spade clips and only install the new switch only. Mess with as little as possible. My opinion.
Clint

[TerryT]

Yes, just unplug the old one and plug the new one in, being careful to not to put the new plug in 180 out.

[LarryLesniak]

I'd love to just unplug the old switch and plug the new one in but the cover switch on the left has small tabs that are soldered to the wires so I'll have to wire it in so I preserve some of the wire going into the board connector. The cover switch on the right uses spade connectors which made it much easier to replace. I guess the soldered connections are a result of the smaller size of the switch housing on the left. I don't think I'll have too much trouble wiring it in and I'm hopeful that the machine will be good to go once the new switch is in place.

Thanks again for all the replies and help!

Larry

[pterris]

had the same problem as you and bypassing the switch solved the problem. my thanks to you.

[Jlavoie]

I considered jumping-out the left switch as others here said they did, but I was concerned that if the machine continued a carve cycle with the cut motor off, that I could break a bit and/or ruin a board that is partially carved, or worse -- stretch an axis belt. So I decided to find out why the switch was malfunctioning. Intent on removing it, I first used a vacuum cleaner to remove any dust from it... all I did was put my vacuum hose against the indention that the cover tab recesses into when closed. I then used the hex-wrench that I use with my carvetight adaptor to cycle the switch quite hard several times. I felt resistance to this motion for the first few times, which I think was dust in the contact area... after jamming it several times and again using the vacuum on it (without any disassembly), the switch is no longer giving me the nuisance faults. I have now added vacuuming and exercising this switch to my post-carve machine cleanout routine.

[zan29]

I've had that same problem without being able to resolve it no matter what until I realized that the FFC cable was damaged. Replaced it and the problem was gone!

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