First whack at grayscale geometry. Direction pls

[opensores]

Where to start? I bought this machine on a complete whim, not having any experience running these machines, and with a good basic understanding of 2d design with regards to cut paths, and the like... For the last 4 years I've been building molds for longboards. Started out doing it by hand, and ended up with a modular kit of assembly mold features for longboards. Very fun stuff to design, when thinking about how the foot interacts with the surface, and how that in turn transmits force through to the trucks. I have always wanted a 3d machine. The day the opportunity came to do 1-2" mold carvings, I bit into the idea, with full intent to do it by the CW rules, or to hack the machine figuring out how to do what I want. Or maybe I'll have to just buy/build something bigger.

I did speak in depth with a nice lady at CW who informed me that I came in outside the circle of what this machine does. Some boxes are circular I suppose. Anyways, the machine will be used for this purpose, but my intent is to get cut times WAY down. I have many questions about substrates, and would like to know if MDF can be used with ease. I have intent to cut projects such as the ones I have uploaded/attached. These are my first few attempts at importing gray scale images from Adobe Illustrator CS6. The blend tools allow for a very interesting gradient usage, and while the precision may be lacking from a traditional 3d design software, organizing pixels in the gray scale seems easy, and doable. PS, the mold/press technique I use only requires 1 side of the mold (female). Pneumatic bladder pressing FTW.

I have a B machine, with 20 hours or less of cut time. I have purchased the most recent base software. Not sure if I should be looking at the 3d designer or maybe one of the export programs, however, I prefer doing it the hard way for now given budget. (maybe a month or so). The hard way is gray scale images, in adobe illustrator until I can do cooler stuff with it. None of these attached files have been smoothed in adobe before being imported to the software, and I believe I can make the surfaces very much more flat with just a bit of make up.

I need to purchase the 3/16" cut bit, and probably the 1/8" long bit as well, but I am not willing to break bits as often, because I will be running long files, with deep cuts. If I can get away with doing 4'x12" carve sessions, then I will.

Is there a brick headed for me?

69313693126931169310693096931369312693096931169310

[chebytrk]

Appears all these were made with Designer 2.0?

[fwharris]

Interesting looking designs. I did not look through all of them but for me to get a better idea of what your trying to accomplish it would help to see a picture of your finished product you are trying to make with the molds.


MDF is very workable in the machine but you should have a good dust collection system hooked up as the dust is very invasive to the machine and your work space.

[bergerud]

I did speak in depth with a nice lady at CW who informed me that I came in outside the circle of what this machine does.

Just what was "outside the circle". It seems to me that long board dimensions are not so large.

[lynnfrwd]

The initial conversation was whether or not he could use the 3/8" decorative straight bit to carve his project on his newly purchased B model machine with the old Quick Change Chuck. We were talking about the capabilities of the machine and how we are expanding those capabilities, but he aimed for the outside of the circle with this (one of his first) projects. This conversation was also without me seeing the molds and it was not about the size of the project, but more the way he wanted to do it and scope of such a project for a new CW user.

[opensores]

The initial conversation was whether or not he could use the 3/8" decorative straight bit to carve his project on his newly purchased B model machine with the old Quick Change Chuck. We were talking about the capabilities of the machine and how we are expanding those capabilities, but he aimed for the outside of the circle with this (one of his first) projects. This conversation was also without me seeing the molds and it was not about the size of the project, but more the way he wanted to do it and scope of such a project for a new CW user.


Yeah, that bit is the wrong one to use... I will need the 3/16 and the thickest long bit you guys offer.

Here is my most recent form file. Also, here are some pics of some of the forms I build.

http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140409_033443_633_zpstz6rbquj.jpg (http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/jared_nelson2/media/molds/IMG_20140409_033443_633_zpstz6rbquj.jpg.html)


http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140130_175147_544_zpsddzlhjre.jpg (http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/jared_nelson2/media/molds/IMG_20140130_175147_544_zpsddzlhjre.jpg.html)
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140318_194710_750_zpsoeqmanfl.jpg (http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/jared_nelson2/media/molds/IMG_20140318_194710_750_zpsoeqmanfl.jpg.html)
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140321_223215_360_zps4v56d2yy.jpg (http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/jared_nelson2/media/molds/IMG_20140321_223215_360_zps4v56d2yy.jpg.html)
69325

[opensores]

Ok, I will use grayscale for some stuff, but not the complex stuff. This is an example of a more complex shape. This is a file which will require the long bit. I am so scared about using a long bit. Few questions...

Do I have to upgrade my B model to the newer head in order to use the 2.125" carving bit?

Also, is this file going to be hell on my bit? Do I risk just cutting a bit? I plan to use MDF or maybe birch to make this cut.

Actually the file is 3.7 MB, so larger than I can upload... The file is 40" long, and 11.5" wide, and has a cut max depth of 2"

[CW-HAL9000]

In order to use the longer carving bits you must
1. upgrade your b machine to the carvetite spindle
2.. upgrade your belts to the rubber ones.
3. upgrade your software to 2.0 if you have not purchased this already.
4. then of course buy the bits.

It is a costly upgrade from an older machine. Gets a little more palatable with a newer one. Although I have the version C Machine with rubber belts and the carvetite spindle and I still have no plans to upgrade to 2.0 any time soon or buy the longer bits.

[fwharris]

Yes you will need the CarveTight chuck and 2.xxx software to carve this deep.. You do not need the rubber belts..

Your projects do seem like a large undertaking... If you do these as a raster carve (pattern/gray scale) you can use the long carving bits. If trying to do vector carves I believe you are beyond the reach of the bits..

[opensores]

Thanks for the quick replies. To answer your questions, I have both 2.+ software, as well as the STL importer. I'll be ordering the new chuck and the 3/16" bit, as well as the biggest long bit available. I would feel much more confident running the machine for xx hours at a time with some girth.

SO is STL file should be good with the carving bits, because that uses the pattern tool eh?

From what I understand, vector files are all single depth cut files, is this correct?

Will there ever be a 3/16" carving bit offered with a 2" cut depth?

The previous files I attached in this thread were all experiments with gray scale stuff. I will use that for some molds, and hopefully to carve the bottom of longboards as well. There is so much I want to do with this thing.

Now that I have the STL import software, I have imported a model.
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/IMG_20140512_210216_504_zpsditx33jc.jpg (http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/jared_nelson2/media/IMG_20140512_210216_504_zpsditx33jc.jpg.html)

[fwharris]

Yes STL files are pattern type carves and vectors are line cut paths. You can though control the depth of cut on vectors by setting the max path depth.

Since your projects do not have real detail, just a shape, you can use a faster carve setting (best or normal) and look into "sign foam" as your material. It is a lot softer than wood or MDF so you can be more aggressive with your cuts and it hold up very well.

[opensores]

I need whatever substrate used to NOT crush under about 40,000 lbs down pressure.

[bergerud]

If MDF is good enough, I would give that a try. You do not need the deep bits to make your molds. You can slice up the STL into layers and carve them with the 3/16 carving bit. Two or three layers would be all you need I think. The carves could go fast with the 3/16 carving bit in normal or draft.

[opensores]

MDF certainly won't crush. The only foam I know of that won't crush is Divinycell foam, and its pretty darn expensive, and still it crushes in places.

With regards to slicing, I still am not sure exactly what the jig will look like, but I am going to have to jig these molds, since the rollers need contact with something.

[bergerud]

I am not sure you need a jig at all. Look at the attached mpc's. With them you can carve a deep elliptical depression using three boards. What you want to do is the same idea I think. You can carve them separately and glue later or you could glue as you go.

Edit: If you open these with 2.xx, you have to turn off the floor feather. I made these in 1.187 so all could see.

[opensores]

A jig will certainly be needed. Without one, my machined parts wouldn't contact the rollers on the machine...

I just plinked down 3 bills on the upgraded head, vacuum collection adapter, and a 1/8" long cutting bit. Does anyone know of an aftermarket solution for a long cutting bit which will be thicker?

For Sale: Brand new 3/8" 2 flute bit, and a good condition 1/16" carving bit, both with the old B style adapter for sale here soon, as well as the old head, if there is a used market for them... Otherwise I'll just return the old head to CW for the $40 rebate...

I just ordered 2 4x8 sheets of 1.25" thick MDF. I'll be cutting them to 12x4x and stacking them two high for some molds. I really prefer not to use the slice function of the machine.

[bergerud]

I said you might not need a jig because you can just cut the sides off of the board after (as long as your mold is less than 13.5' wide). The slicing has major advantages for what you are doing. Large parts of the material would be removed as solid parts, not as sawdust. The cheaper and faster 3/16" bits could be used.

Just my take on it. It is what I would do. (Actually, I would even have the subsequent carves carve a little deeper into the board below to clean up the glue joints.)

[opensores]

I said you might not need a jig because you can just cut the sides off of the board after (as long as your mold is less than 13.5' wide). The slicing has major advantages for what you are doing. Large parts of the material would be removed as solid parts, not as sawdust. The cheaper and faster 3/16" bits could be used.

Just my take on it. It is what I would do. (Actually, I would even have the subsequent carves carve a little deeper into the board below to clean up the glue joints.)

I am sure you can see better than I the way to do this. I believe my hardship has to do with my fantastic imagination trying to figure out how to do something that is unwise, inefficient, or just impossible. Based on a helpful conversation with customer service at CW I was turned onto the possibility of using the 3/16 bit, and setting the depth half as deep for one pass, then full depth on the second pass? Maybe even a third pass? This seemed different than slicing... As with double rainbows I ask, what does it mean?

Slicing is also something I really want to accomplish. Is there a way to build a project by slicing the file, routing the lower section, then by gluing on another length of MDF on top of that, only in the areas where more routing will be needed? Seems like even the machine may have trouble figuring out what speed to operate at when passing through a section of what would be substrate, but instead is empty space? Will this type of thing work?

I might be making things too complicated here, and maybe slicing is across the X plane (long), where a deeper route will be needed., and the machining will need to be with the 2" bit, and respectively thicker substrate... I am not seeing how large parts can be removed without cutting them.


Here is an example.
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140318_202119_795_zpsfixta2tc.jpg

[opensores]

A few more of pics of some of the first tests for grayscale accuracy...

http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140415_204146_618_zpsmehine56.jpg
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140501_203924_994_zps6m0dmezy.jpg

[bergerud]

First, you should look at the hollow, three file carve I posted. Image how you could do something similar. I think it is the best way for what you want to do.

As for the suggestion to do multiple passes with a single thick board, I have done that as well. The problem is that you have to tell the machine that you are using a deep bit in order to go deeper than 0.8". The only deep bits are 1/16" and 1/8" balls. I have not tried using a 3/16" ball when telling the machine I have a 1/8" ball. Maybe it would work. Strange that LHR would suggest it. Even if it does work ok, (it probably would), it would be way more carving than the method I suggested.

[fwharris]

First, you should look at the hollow, three file carve I posted. Image how you could do something similar. I think it is the best way for what you want to do.

As for the suggestion to do multiple passes with a single thick board, I have done that as well. The problem is that you have to tell the machine that you are using a deep bit in order to go deeper than 0.8". The only deep bits are 1/16" and 1/8" balls. I have not tried using a 3/16" ball when telling the machine I have a 1/8" ball. Maybe it would work. Strange that LHR would suggest it. Even if it does work ok, (it probably would), it would be way more carving than the method I suggested.

I agree with Dan about doing this in 3 sliced layers and then gluing them up for the full depth mold. There is a similar post about doing a deep bowl this way, carve 3 sections to glue up. You would not be working the machine as hard and could easily assign the 3/16" ball nose as the pattern bit to speed up the carve time.

[opensores]

Ok, I am moving a bit quicker than my ability to post. Quick updates...

Received the 8th long ball, but the carve tight spindle is actually on back order. Wasn't aware of that when I ordered, and no information has been provided on when the order will ship. Thats cool, it gives me time to figure out how to do this...

I have managed to snub out this little example of a skateboard mold today...
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140520_154150_015_zpsf47kqbb8.jpg

http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140520_154139_072_zpsytfyt21y.jpg

Here is that file, mirrored...
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140512_210216_504_zpstrfe0qvi.jpg

And the rig.
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140520_154009_297_zps0t11eqil.jpg

First things first, I keep getting this error when I try uploading to the card, which says the cut is too deep... Trying to import a full 2" deep file... The bit is even changed to the long ball, in the board settings. The one thing I recognize is that some how the CW software is trying to cut the entire box out along the perimeter of the file. How do I turn that off. I believe that is why I am getting that error.

There are about 5 other things I can't wait to talk about, but I need to take this 1 step at a time...


ttyl

[opensores]

Another error I get on one of my huge files, is too much data for one table row. Unable to fetch results... This is when I try uploading an STL which is 827 KB file...

[bergerud]

The one thing I recognize is that some how the CW software is trying to cut the entire box out along the perimeter of the file. How do I turn that off. I believe that is why I am getting that error.

That could be the Floor Feather. A check box in the tool bar.


Another error I get on one of my huge files, is too much data for one table row. Unable to fetch results... This is when I try uploading an STL which is 827 KB file...

I think your file is just too big. I have had problems when getting near 1 Mb. I do not think your file has to be that large.

[fwharris]

Great hose adapter for the DC-INSERT, that is a first for me!

Is the cut out question the one you get at the machine during set up, "cut board to size"? If so just say no.

Dan I correct, it is probably the file size your trying to up load. You could get around this by doing the sliced version Dan has mentioned before.

[opensores]

Ok, so a bit of an update. This file is going to be sliced into 3 slices. This is the first slice (the base)

Here is an example of the error I get when trying to upload to card... This file is 1.25" thick, and the carve depth is less than half that. I have all feather deselected and all that, now it looks like the problem on this one is the depth of the face of it... I would like to use a 1.25" thick piece of MDF and don't want it to route the entire face of this out, or the perimeter... 6963669636

That is the first slice and the other pieces will be added to the top after carving. I see the light now. Just one more step before I can run this file. I sure hope my carve tight spindle isn't on too long a back order... I suppose I can use the 1/16" bit until then...

[bergerud]

The problem is only that the pattern bit is the 1/16" carving bit. The 1/16" carving bit cannot carve over 0.8" deep. You have to change the pattern bit to be one of the deep bits. (edit - board settings) Also, the depth is set to be deeper than the board is thick.

[fwharris]

See my post in the other section you posted to. The top edge of the slice has a very deep carve, almost through the board, and that is why you are getting the error.

[bergerud]

You have yet another problem. The whole surface of the board is being carved half away. I think you only want to carve the depression. Somehow the depth or the thickness of the slice is wrong.

[opensores]

So you said: "You are getting the error because the depth of the carve is 1.25" and the max depth you can carve with the 1/16" carving bit is 0.800" and to top edge of the slice goes way deeper than the base of the pattern. See attached image. This probably has more to do with the error than the carving bit as when I tried to change the pattern bit to the 1/8" long I kept getting the error."

This file is meant to have only about .5" of overall carving. The problem may be based on a difference between the actual STL, and the dimensions of the board...

Here if you notice on the file, the box is raised above the intended surface of the file...
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140521_193922_143_zpshbjweg0p.jpg
Not sure what I missed, but it should be a simple solution.

[opensores]

Lets see if I can attach the STL file before slicing. The depth of this file is 2.125", and that is also the max carve depth overall... 6963969639

If anyone wants to download it, the width dimension is 14.5. Length is 32.4, Depth is 2.125".

[opensores]

The main issue is that I do not want the edges of the file to be cut out, and it seems to be built into the file some how...

Just for reference, this is the other error I get, when I get passed the previous error of deep cuts...

"The carvings in this project are arranged in a way that may interfere with the mechanics, requiring a manual or automatic jig. Specifically:
-Wide cuts across the width of the board may interfere with the compression rollers.
-Cut-throughs on the top edges will not be completed in order to avoid interference with the aux roller.

The software get a bit glitchy after I get this errror. The upload project screen actually does pop up after I get this error... In draft mode, it is telling me the est finished time is 4:46, in draft mode, and 21 hours in Best. Obviously the time will come way down as soon as the top isn't being routed totally...

[bergerud]

I sliced it 1.25 from the back and put it on the board ok. It is 4.5 Mb and so I cannot upload. It looks different from yours. It is deeper and has more of the pattern.

Edit: I did it half size just to show you what it should look like.

[fwharris]

Lets see if I can attach the STL file before slicing. The depth of this file is 2.125", and that is also the max carve depth overall... 6963969639

If anyone wants to download it, the width dimension is 14.5. Length is 32.4, Depth is 2.125".

First change your board thickness to 0.750" since you will be doing 3 individual carve that will be glues together to get your total of 2.125".

[bergerud]

Opps. I missed that 3 slice!

In that case, the original "error base.mpc" was ok. He only had to change the board thickness to 3/4" and the pattern depth to 3/4".

[fwharris]

Now the other issue, it is set up as a 14.5" carving and you have no area/surface to support the compression rollers. The maximum width for the machine is maybe 14.75" if you are not doing a cut out. You need to narrow the over all width of your stl to be JUST over the width of your mold area. As is you have about 1" on each side that is not part of the area you need for the mold. If you do this then you can set it up on a 14.5" board and have the side area to support the compression rollers.

[opensores]

I am thinking I need to remove the entire top and sides out of the file because the software doesn't integrate the top/sides into the board but rather they are cut path surfaces.... Does this sound right?

[bergerud]

I thought he had more than an inch on each side. The pattern is only 12" wide and the board is 14.5.

[opensores]

I thought he had more than an inch on each side. The pattern is only 12" wide and the board is 14.5.

That is the weird thing. The original STL file is being created with an impression 12" wide, on top of a box, which is 14.5" wide. When I go into the pattern editor, the color map shows the 12" pattern, but the 3d view on the left shows the top and sides, which the file was created with. I thought the top and sides were going to be needed, to some how communicate to the software, that the top, and sides were in fact the top/sides of the physical board we are putting in the machine. Seems to be a mixed message... I may still be off in left field, with a different problem all together...

[bergerud]

That is the weird thing. The original STL file is being created with an impression 12" wide, on top of a box, which is 14.5" wide. When I go into the pattern editor, the color map shows the 12" pattern, but the 3d view on the left shows the top and sides, which the file was created with. I thought the top and sides were going to be needed, to some how communicate to the software, that the top, and sides were in fact the top/sides of the physical board we are putting in the machine. Seems to be a mixed message... I may still be off in left field, with a different problem all together...

The top and sides are not needed. In fact the machine will carve (or try to carve) the whole surface. In the pattern editor, you should only see the depression. The flat top surface would have to be deleted.

There are a lot of details to deal with.

It would be better if the original STL was the surface only and no box.

[opensores]

Editing the STL files. Will report back. I am at the first rung of the latter now...

[opensores]

Well, I think I got it. Just had to make the width of the model wider than the width of the board, and same goes for the length... The board settings were adjusted so that the board has a .01" thick darker texture, and the core a lighter texture.
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/IMG_20140527_242523_087_zps5y5ivdi0.jpg
This cut will take 3 hours on draft quality. Should be straight forward. Next step on the ladder is the next slice up in the project.

Here is what it looked like before I got rid of the edge route effect that was being created.
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140526_234123_588_zpsxt8mqkm1.jpg

My only worry about this project is that it still gave me this error.
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140526_234223_664_zpshqjhyxdv.jpg

The warning is cautioning against carves that span the width of the board, but this carve leaves MUCH room outide of it that it will never interfere with the rollers. Is this an error I'll continue to get on all sorts of carves like this? If so, I just want the machine to make it through each session, which will be 2-4 hours each.

My last question for now is in regards to the ghost line paths that now exist outside of the board. Are these still going to dictate a cut path motion from the carvewright? If so, is the carvewright machine also going to to scale the project down to accomidate the actual width of the board after measuring?

Still haven't heard from Carvewright on the backorder status of the carvetight spindle I ordered. I will be picking up the MDF tomorrow morning. I suppose I'll be bugging them again...

[opensores]

Oh, also, incase anyone is willing to take a gander at one example, please do. Created by 2.007.

[DickB]

I'm guessing that the warning is due to your pattern extending off the board, even though it is 0 depth. I recommend getting rid of the 0 depth area. Do you have Pattern Editor?

[bergerud]

The whole surface of the board will be carved. This is bad. It will take a lot of time and the smooth surface of the MDF will get roughed up for no reason.

(A 0.00 carve region will not be carved if the region is all 0.00. If any part of the pattern is not 0.00, it will all be carved and 0.00 carved usually means a surface skim.)

You need to delete the corner points (or box) in the STL so you have only the depression itself as the pattern.

[opensores]

Bergerud, how is this performed?

[opensores]

Since an STL file cannot be complete until it is a solid, boxed in shape, how do I remove the boxing, in CW? Before or after slicing? I have even tried slicing off the ends of the file, just to get the outer ends of the box to disappear? It just creates new little boxes...

[bergerud]

I do not what program you are using. (The 0.00 surface can be removed later in the pattern editor if you have it but that is not the best way.) I just took the stl into meshlab and deleted the two box corner points.

Once in the STL importer, I started from the back to the front. Then in Designer, I inverted the patterns. Line up in the x is going to be a bit of a problem. First thing is first. See what the mpc's should be like.

[opensores]

I do not what program you are using. (The 0.00 surface can be removed later in the pattern editor if you have it but that is not the best way.) I just took the stl into meshlab and deleted the two box corner points.

Once in the STL importer, I started from the back to the front. Then in Designer, I inverted the patterns. Line up in the x is going to be a bit of a problem. First thing is first. See what the mpc's should be like.

Thank you. There are still some issues here, so I am going to try to get to where you got on my end, to see what issues still stand.

I do have meshlab, but haven't ever used it for anything other than exporting into new formats. Is it simple enough to delete some sides here and there? I'll give it a go.

I also used that pattern editor (not the $ software), but just the native function. By using the magic wand, I was able to remove the sides and top on one of the files.

The strange thing about all these different attempts to do the same thing. I am still getting the error where it needs to cut all the way down to the base, rather than coming up to complete the relief.

Bergerud, even on one of your files I still get it trying to cut down to the base, no matter what I do. I will return and report.

[bergerud]

Yes, there still are issues. My files were meant only as examples of not carving the whole surface. Once the box is gone, so is the reference to line up the layers. If the layers are to be glued together after the carving, it may not matter. If you want to glue as you carve, it will matter. I may play some more later.

[opensores]

I do not what program you are using. (The 0.00 surface can be removed later in the pattern editor if you have it but that is not the best way.) I just took the stl into meshlab and deleted the two box corner points.

Once in the STL importer, I started from the back to the front. Then in Designer, I inverted the patterns. Line up in the x is going to be a bit of a problem. First thing is first. See what the mpc's should be like.

A few points to hit. On each of these files, the base piece will not have a floor feather, and won't be pierced. The upper slices will be cut out around the perimeter.

[opensores]

Also, I plan on gluing after I carve.

[fwharris]

Your getting there! Try to just focus on the mold area with out the flat not needed area. I think that is what is causing some of your problems.

Another approach you might try with this is to model your actual finished piece and use it as a positive/negative to make the mold shape.

[opensores]

I left a vmail at Carvewright, and recieved an email telling me that my spindle was shipped out of the NYC factory, and will be re-shipped to me as soon as it arrives in TX in a week...

[opensores]

Well, I received the carvetight on monday. Its installed. Now I just have to get my tablesaw running so I can cut the 1.25" and .75" MDF sheets. I have the sheets. The 1.25" sheets will be used with a 1" deep cut on each of them, and then if and when a second layer/slice is needed, I will either use another 1.25" or a .75" sheet. Gotta finalize those files. I do believe that when cut in halves, the deeper carves will be about 3 hours each. Definately not the economical way to do this, if you can afford a bigger table router... I'd prefer not having to slice anything, even if the machine time goes up, having a perfect surface will allow a better finish of the mold, and there fore any composite decks I decide to build with it. Its ok, I will get around that. Very stoked to be hopefully cutting out tomorrow.

[opensores]

Ok, this is officially my SOS call for help. I am not able to create a file which doesn't call for the perimeter of the board to be cut out. It is impossible... Here is the original STL file. Please help...

[bergerud]

Something like this?

[opensores]

Something like this?

ok, how did you do that?

[bergerud]

We have been here before! Deleted the corner vertices and got rid of the box. I imported the STL - made a pattern. Then I took it into the PE trimmed the edge and took out the 0.00 level with the magic wand.

[opensores]

So you used meshlab to turn it onto a surface only? Then after importing you removed the zero with the wand? When you say trimmed the edge in PE can you explain that a bit more?

[bergerud]

For some reason there was a line around the edge after the STL importer so I trimmed it off. Then I also removed the flat part.

[opensores]

For some reason there was a line around the edge after the STL importer so I trimmed it off. Then I also removed the flat part.

Ok, I am hot on the trail now! Thank you! Do I need to have PE in order to trim these edges? It looks like in order to get the edits done in editor, after trimming the edges, I just need to export as an STL, and import it again, is this right?

[opensores]

Exporting this as an STL is taking forever.

[opensores]

For some damn reason, I can trim the edges, but it wont save those changes to the pattern. I can save into a new file, either by exporting to a new STL (but the deep cut edges repeat themselves at the new width), or with PTN, or MPW, but neither of those can save into the favorites tab to be used as a pattern. I feel like I am failing at all angles. Do I need PE to continue?

[bergerud]

Do you have the Pattern editor? (Are you having floor feather issues?)

[opensores]

No I haven't purchased that. .

[opensores]

Yes, it is still giving me a complete floor feather...

[bergerud]

Ok, try the following trick. First get rid of all the box corners including the two top corners of the of the curved end. Now import into the STL importer. Flip it upside down. Convex towards you. Now save it to the favorates. (Unpush the carve to full depth button first.) Now in Designer, invert the pattern and turn off floor feather. How is that?

[opensores]

Dang, that is a trick for sure. That looks like it worked mostly. The only issue I see now is that when I select a feather, it doesn't show up in the rendering...

[bergerud]

Now you need the trim again! Feather does not work because the pattern comes to the top. The invert moved the problem boundary from the bottom to the top.

[opensores]

I don't fully understand that, however, now that I am this far, I am confident it will work. Are you saying that the boarder is still intact in the same way it was last time?

I may have it figured out.

I'll be working on that now. Given that this is half of the file, and now since we have taken much of the bulk out in KB, I can fit both halves of the mold onto one file. If I can begin this cut Monday morning, it will be done about the time the neighbors will want to go to bed.

I can cut it one of 2 ways. One would be with the 8th Long ball, all in one pass, and the other would be in 2 passes, one slice in 1.25" MDF, with a cut depth up to 1", and a second slice in .75. The unique thing about this is that the central portion of the board would need to be attached by tabs to keep them from moving around. On draft this cut will take 9 hours.
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140614_234019_964_zpstsnov4av.jpg
Does anyone have experience cutting files this time intensive?

I understand you may be sleeping by now...

[opensores]

Figured it out! Thank you again. Have you ever considered being a professional baby tortoise saver? I am going to take a look at the difference between a sliced cut, and a non sliced cut. Should have that one next.

[unitedcases]

I don't fully understand that, however, now that I am this far, I am confident it will work. Are you saying that the boarder is still intact in the same way it was last time?

I may have it figured out.

I'll be working on that now. Given that this is half of the file, and now since we have taken much of the bulk out in KB, I can fit both halves of the mold onto one file. If I can begin this cut Monday morning, it will be done about the time the neighbors will want to go to bed.

I can cut it one of 2 ways. One would be with the 8th Long ball, all in one pass, and the other would be in 2 passes, one slice in 1.25" MDF, with a cut depth up to 1", and a second slice in .75. The unique thing about this is that the central portion of the board would need to be attached by tabs to keep them from moving around. On draft this cut will take 9 hours.
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140614_234019_964_zpstsnov4av.jpg
Does anyone have experience cutting files this time intensive?

I understand you may be sleeping by now...
I am a fan of 10 and 12 hour carves. usually on best though.

[bergerud]

I think I would go for it in one draft or normal pass with the 1/8" deep bit. It is only MDF. The time saved by slicing and cutting out (not having to carve) a portion of the top piece may not be worth the effort. Total human time would certainly be more and the result would not be as nice as one piece would.

[opensores]

Here goes nothing. http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140617_100412_284_zpsxivs7uak.jpg I'll update hopefully no sooner than 8 hours from now.

[opensores]

The day was too long to update. I interupted power during the cut twice, and it ended up taking longer than I wanted it to, but none the less, the route was successful. I will be running another file tomorrow as well. Very happy to say that I didn't make a mistake in buying this, and investing some into specific soft and hardware.

Thank you very much for your help. The entire list of steps for importing an STL in, and running the file are set, and believe it or not, the files are coming in just lower than the max available space of the carvewright card I have. One project at a time is fine.

http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140619_012042_365_zps0fxolbjx.jpg
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140619_012019_577_zpsduxpyfnq.jpg

The finish is very smooth, and almost finish quality if I want to apply some mold release and use composites on molds built with this press.

I have just recently become a solo project, after selling my shares of a business I started to my brother, and other business partner. Now that I am alone, I really am in need of exactly what this carvewright can do. My next questions are going to be aboug machining boards themselves... :)


I will also post pics of the finished product here.

[opensores]

Got another mold cut today. I have both the 3/16" and the 1/8" Long ball bits, and today I tried uploading a cut which was .875" deep, and had selected the 3/16" bit to do the job, but in measuring the depth of my 1.25" thick MDF (which is exactly 1.25" thick), it gave me the z axis stall. I didn't notice whether or not the spindle contacted anything, or if the stall is due to some programming which may explain the limitation (z axis) of the 3/16" ball to .8" only...

http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140624_225634_328_zpspsxbwo5z.jpg
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140624_225931_061_zps96smjftn.jpg
I am stoked at how accurate this machine is when piercing through the board. I think its about time I learn how to use tabs, so i can have the machine cut that out too.
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140624_225939_190_zpsi3wfya2p.jpg
http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r724/jared_nelson2/molds/IMG_20140624_230007_476_zpspcsfibyo.jpg
I used the flute as a reference line to show the sacred geometry below. the flute is special to me, because I made it under the guidance of a master flute builder. Maybe I'll get some specs from him and cut some flutes out. I really can't wait till I am at 1000 plus hours on this thing.