Two Sided Carves - New "Flip Within Jig" feature of 2.005

[lynnfrwd]

In case you missed this announcement made within another post, here it is again:

CarveWright designer firmware version 2.005 adds a new "flip within jig" feature, which may help with double-sided projects inside of jigs.

http://www.carvewright.com/assets/se...pWithinJig.pdf (http://www.carvewright.com/assets/service/Software_instructions/FlipWithinJig.pdf)

[DickB]

I would like the Jog To Center option enabled in this case.

I ran a two-sided project in a sled and got a prompt asking if I was using a jig, which I was, so I responded yes. The only option offered was to jog to corner. I prefer to use Jog To Center when possible, as I get better results.

For many two-sided projects, I am machining multiple parts, and I can arrange the parts around a hole drilled in the center of the project board. From the back of the board I drill a 1/8" hole dead center. When running the front side, I elect Jog To Center and place the 1/16" bit over the hole drilled through the board. In fact, after using the keypad to move the board to position, I manually lower the bit into the hole to ensure that it is dead centered. Any y movement that may happen when I do this is apparently noted by the machine. This method has given me the best alignment front to back in two-sided projects.

I can work around the lack of Jog To Center prompt by uploading my two-sided project as two separate projects, one front and on back, and running the two projects in sequence, but it would be nice to have this option.

[bergerud]

I am not sure this option applies. The idea is to jog to the "same" corner of the board after it has been flipped. Jogging to center is something else. You can always do that the old way.

I do not really like the position of the question in the "flow chart". It is a little confusing. There are many situations with double sided carves in a jig where you would not want this choice. Your jogging to center is one of them. Either the question should be changed to be more specific or the choice should be moved down the chart. Make it part of Jog to Project: 1) Center, 2) Corner 3) Flip Corner.

It is not an option I will use very often and now it is in my face like "cut board to size" was.

[RMarkey]

You couldn't jog to center on the flipped side, though. The main idea of flip-in-jig is to jog twice -- the front and back of the board. I chose 'corner' because its an extremely easy way to mark the board, or mark the jig for that matter. Drilling a hole through a board without a drill press is not accurate, and neither is lining up the center of the carving bit to a hole, imo.

[FWMiller]

Drilling the hole with the CW should be very accurate though. I think he's drilling the centered hole in the first side of the carve. That's what I'd do anyway. Aligning the jog point to a hole in the center seems like it will be much more accurate than trying too align the center of the bit to the corner of a board.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Here is a off topic "idea" along that line... A Laser Pointer "BIT" that you install to do the setup for special projects like double sided. A future Designer Feature wish list item...

AL

[FWMiller]

I like that idea. Or even a needle point probe for fine alignment.

[DickB]

You couldn't jog to center on the flipped side, though. The main idea of flip-in-jig is to jog twice -- the front and back of the board. I chose 'corner' because its an extremely easy way to mark the board, or mark the jig for that matter. Drilling a hole through a board without a drill press is not accurate, and neither is lining up the center of the carving bit to a hole, imo.You can and I do jog to center on the flipped side. I don't understand why you say this is not accurate - perhaps you can explain.

The goal is to precisely align front and back sides of a two-sided project. My procedure is to machine the back side first. I drill a hole at the center of the back side through the board, so that when the board is flipped the hole denotes the exact center of the back and now also the front side. If the back side was not precisely aligned with the center of the project board, it doesn't mater- the hole is my reference point. I load the 1/16" carving bit to jog to center on the front side as prompted, and manually push the bit down into the 1/8" hole to ensure that it is centered. If not exactly aligned, it is easy to tell, as the bit will not be centered in the hole. I use the keypad to jog in the x direction and simply move the head in the y direction to center it. One could instead load the 1/8" bit or a 1/8" rod for that matter, but the carving bit works fine for me. This I believe is more accurate than trying to align the tip of the carving bit with a mark on the project board or jig at a corner mark. I don't think a laser is necessary.

I have tried different methods and this one works well for me in most cases. If there is a better way, I welcome the input. bergerud has described using a jig and not removing the "board" for more accurate placement, and I have thought about this a lot, and ways to take advantage of it, but have not pursued this option yet. I would love to see an easier, more accurate option for aligning back and front sides, but for me the center hole method is working fairly well.

[RMarkey]

Well, requiring a perfectly perpendicular hole to be pre-drilled into a board before you can run a project was not in my plan.

On the other hand, setting a ruler on the edge of the board seemed simple enough, made the flip process more straightforward, and skipped a question that would need to be asked (center/corner).

Forget the lasers and stuff. We thought about that, and offset bits too. We don't want to require that.

[DickB]

The hole is not pre-drilled. It is part of the back side project. Works for me.

[RMarkey]

did I miss something? how do you "center" the back, then?

[DickB]

The back does not have to be perfectly centered. The hole that is drilled defines the project center.

[bergerud]

The problem M has with the centering hole in the back is if the pattern does not need a hole in it! Good for gears, maybe not so good for other things. It cannot, therefore, be a "standard" procedure for double sided carves. Dick's routine, however, has the advantage that only one accurate jog is required instead of two. In the flip-jig routine, one has to accurately jog twice to the project corner. With Dick's method, one needs only to crudely jog to center and carve the back. The center hole is drilled as part of the back pattern and is so accurate "by definition". Now when flipped, an accurate jog to the hole is all that is required.

I think Dick's method could be used with the flip-jig routine. Instead of having a center hole as part of the project back, one could have a corner hole. (The real board could be slightly bigger than the project board) One would do a crude flip-jig jog to the front left corner of the back. The back would be carved and a hole drilled through at the jog point as part of the project. The board is then flipped in the jig and then one jogs to the hole (now the front right).

I am not a big fan of jogging to line up carves, but this would have to be as accurate as jogging can get.

[CarverJerry]

Ok, I've done this project before but forget how I flipped the board. I'm carving the Victorian Ornaments and have added some words to the back side, these ornaments have a drilled hole to hang it by so the words I put on the back use the same hole for the top, but when I go to carve this which way will I flip the board? End to end or top to bottom? I do use a carrier board for carving. I'm using 1.187 designer.

[fwharris]

I would think you flip it like a normal 2 sided carve, rotate the side to side not end to end, but then it would depend on how you have placed your text.