Flexshaft temperature & lube..concerned..new machine

[scootertrash]

I have a brand new CX with about 11 hours on it and the flex shaft temperature has me concerned.

I've been all over the forum and have seen some say "a little warm is OK" and others say "warmer than body temp is very bad." Mine warms up to where it's almost uncomfortable to touch (on an 8 hour carve). For reference, my water heater runs at 120F and the flexshaft definitely doesn't get that hot. It's not kinked in any way and comes over the machine in a nice, smooth curve. I have never lubed it and am thinking I may need to.

Which brings me to the next question: What to use for lubrication.

Holy shmoley, are there a lot of different posts about THAT. I reckon things have changed over the years, but I found posts saying lithium grease, don't use anything with the word grease in it, use lube with organic moly, don't use lube with organic moly because it needs to be molybdenum disulfide...and the maintenance video says LHR uses a penetrating graphite lubricant and doesn't say anything about moly!

So...I need y'all's help.

- What is considered a normal temperature for the flexshaft?
- What is an approved lube that won't void my warranty? I'm hoping I can run out and buy something local

Scooter

/I've done 4 carves now and loving the persinckety son of a gun

[scootertrash]

How the heck did I miss the sticky with "updated flexshaft information" at the top of the forum?

Sheesh.

[lynnfrwd]

We sell an approved lubricant for $5. Liquid Wrench changed their formula to an organic moly that doesn't work. We tried to find one commercially available, but could only find one sold in a 5 gallon bucket. We put it in small containers, but have to ship regular ground.

It should not be hotter than you can hold your hand on it at the middle of the arc. It will run a little warmer than normal during the first 10 hours or so. It was prelubed by us before shipment. We do use a penetrating lubricant, so it should not feel wet.

[fwharris]

The touch by hand is a good way to check the temperature but to get a better indication pick up a infra red thermometer. Your temp should range from the low 80s to mid 90s during carves. Once it gets up to 110 you should monitor it very closely and consider lubing it.

The only lubes I know for sure are the one CarveWright sells and Crane Cam Lube with molly. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-99002-1 You can either order it on line or if you know of an automotive shop that actually does engine rebuilding they should know about of it and can order it for you.

[FWMiller]

The product you linked to its described as a paste. I read elsewhere that it should be a lubricant that does not leave any residue. Have you used this successfully?

[DickB]

Listen to Connie (lynnfrwd). LHR's lube should be added to the list of parts to have on hand.

[fwharris]

The product you linked to its described as a paste. I read elsewhere that it should be a lubricant that does not leave any residue. Have you used this successfully?

I've been using it since 2009 and still on my original 2 oz packets. My flex shaft temp averages about 85* on the majority of carves. Maybe a little higher when doing aggressive pocket cuts with straight bits. One of the best things about this lube is that there is no down time when you do have to lube the shaft. Apply the lube and put it back in and start carving, no wait time with letting it dry.

[cestout]

I have been using Lubraplate 930AA for years and my flex shaft hardly even gets warm. I had to replace the spacer spring once on my older (B) machine. I need more, what I had was left over from rebuilding my old Montgomery Ward Radial Arm Saw, but I can only find it sold by the case. I apply it with a chip brush, and after sever applications it works it's way into the cable.
Clint

[DocWheeler]

Here is a link (http://weldwarehouse.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?::1:WLDWH:1:293=L0096-098) to a single tube.
I have been using molygraph from Harbor Freight along with the Moly chain-lube for years.
I figure that the little bit of grease that I use cuts wear on the spacer spring; wore my original one out.

[scootertrash]

Not to argue...who am i kidding, I love to argue...but LHR themselves say:

"What is an overheated flexshaft?
You are normally instructed that too hot to hold is too hot. For a more specific determination of overheated, we will say anytime the outside sheath gets hotter than 70 degrees Celsius (158 degrees Fahrenheit)."

Further, they state that if the flexshaft gets excessively hot:

There are some occasions that the flexshaft needs to be lubricated, but it should not be the first thing you look at when a flexshaft starts to overheat.

Source: http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?18945-Care-of-the-CW-Flexshaft

[lynnfrwd]

I'm not understanding what the argument is....

[SteveNelson46]

I have always found it the best policy to use original Carvewright parts, and follow their recommendations. They have the advantage of testing everything first. Sure, there are 3rd parties that have products and parts that may work and the shipping sometimes doesn't seem appropriate but, I would rather have the satisfaction in knowing everything will work as designed. Buy the lubricant from LHR and follow their guidelines and recommendations. I think you will have less problems in the long run.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Part of the problem is that the company making the Chain Lube changed the formula and the new formula does not work as well... So like above, I will be adding some to my next LHR order, my 2007 can is almost empty... :)

And some Assembly Lube posted about in the past has proven to work for many.. but I don't know "IF" the formula is the same NOW.... With the cost of a Flex I would rather fall back on a proven product.

Back in 1995 I was living in San Diego and bought a Sundance Spa. Just after the Warranty ran out it started leaking from many joints... Got the run around and the best they would do is send me parts like the 2 big plastic 2 inch in and 8 outputs.... I spent hours replacing all the bad joints only to have others leak... I never got it to stop leaking before my Divorce.... She got the spa... and House :) Years later I was here and at the County Fair... Saw the Sundance Spa guy.. Mentioned I had a "LEAKER" and he gave me the date I bought it.... Well, Sundance was going for a ISO 9001 Certification and switched from Solvent Based PVC Glue to WATER BASED GLUE.... A whole Year's worth of production were Leakers.... The Glue failed.... And "MUM" was the word... Didn't find out until 10 years later..... so stick with a proven product...

AL

[cestout]

Thanks Ken, I will order it there and have stored the address for future use. In 2007/2008 there was not a definite recommendation and I heard about grease running down into the motor, so when my flex shaft got hot, I grabbed the Hi Temp stuff I had on hand, Worked great and been using it ever since - and recommending it.
Clint

[cestout]

Well I ordered the Lubraplate 930AA and the transaction went thru. Then I got an email that the manufacturer has a minimum limit of 10 per order. I could order 10 or cancel my order. It took me 7 years to use the small amount I had left over - I don't need 10. So I canceled.
Clint

[DocWheeler]

Sorry about that, it seemed as though they would sell a single tube as per their ad!