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View Full Version : Rotary Jig set up in the machine.



fwharris
03-26-2014, 07:24 PM
I tried viewing the set up tutorials and could not get a good enough view and from what I picked up from Joe stated the jig is suppose to set on top of the fixed plate and sliding plate. With the two tabs inserted into the openings on the plates the jig sits up about 1/8" above the plate. See attached pictures..

Is it suppose to sit ON the plate?

Also will there be any hard copies or source to them for the jig set up in the machine? Like most my computer is not in the shop to have the videos running to do so..

bergerud
03-26-2014, 07:29 PM
I think you have it. The rotary plates sit above the squaring plates with the wheels (pullys and bearings) loosely up against the sides of the plates.

fwharris
03-26-2014, 07:32 PM
Dan,

Thanks! Just had to ask as the video does say they sit on the plates. Was not sure if I had to file down the two tabs or not.

SteveNelson46
03-26-2014, 09:28 PM
Well, I received my jig in the mail yesterday. The setup was pretty straight forward except for a couple of minor glitches. The tab on the sliding plate end would not fit in the slot. I had to use a file and remove a small amount of metal on both sides of the slot on the sliding plate. I also removed a little on both sides of the tab. Now it's a snug fit and seems to function fine.

I had the same problem as Floyd with the video. Joe's hand gets in the way of the camera and blocks all but a brief view of the jig on the sliding plate. I finally figured it out that the rollers on the jig were supposed to roll on the belts and the jig sets on the plate (duh).

I also had a little problem with calibration. After the 3 revolutions, it would stop about a half of a turn past the mark. I used the arrow keys to reposition the mark under the bit but, when I tried to save the calibration it gave me a "calibration error". After about 3 or 4 tries I took the jig out to be sure there was nothing wrong with it and when I re-inserted it I made sure the jig was as far to the left as it would go, then checked the other end to be sure it was still properly positioned. After that every thing went smoothly. I don't know whether moving the jig over to the left solved the problem or I just had too low head pressure on the first attempt. Anyhow, it's carving as I type this message.

fwharris
03-26-2014, 09:43 PM
Steve,

So you are saying the both ends of the jig sit ON the plates? My tabs are very tight for the slots but have not filed them down any. I might file them down just a little so the slide into the slots a little easier but with no slop movement.

My calibration was off just a small about and on the run after calibration is was dead on. I will do my first carve tomorrow, just trying to figure out what it is going to be.

bergerud
03-26-2014, 09:57 PM
My tabs were quite loose. Maybe they made them wider after I got mine. The jig end plates sit above the squaring and sliding plates. The jig sits on the pulleys and bearings so there should be a gap under the jig plates.

Calibration is sensitive to head pressure and probably position also. The O ring rides close to the side of the belt.

If line up of the seam at the carve end is important, one should double check the calibration at the start.

fwharris
03-26-2014, 10:19 PM
My tabs were quite loose. Maybe they made them wider after I got mine. The jig end plates sit above the squaring and sliding plates. The jig sits on the pulleys and bearings so there should be a gap under the jig plates.

Calibration is sensitive to head pressure and probably position also. The O ring rides close to the side of the belt.

If line up of the seam at the carve end is important, one should double check the calibration at the start.

After looking at the design I agree that the jig will not (or should not) sit directly on the plates. If it did chances are the jig drive rollers might not be in good contact with the machine belts and you would not get good traction.

I did pick up in the video that the squaring and calibration should be done for each carve. I did mine with the standard 1/16" carving bit since it has a finer tip vs the 1/8" long bit. Since all of this is done prior to selecting the actual carve project there should not be any problem. Right?

I still feel that a hard copy of the jig set up and calibration should be included with the jig. I am betting there will be at least one who does not do one or the other of the steps and will be reporting about it. Even after watching the videos a couple of times when they came out I picked up some things when I viewed them tonight.

Now off to watch the design layout ones to see what I missed on those. Looking to see about the lead in carve regions and if a feather should be used to ease the bit into the carving..

mtylerfl
03-26-2014, 10:24 PM
Makes me nervous that someone would file down those tabs. Mine fit snugly and are a perfect fit. It's supposed to be that way so the jig is nice and stable when the head is lowered. Be absolutely sure you have actually positioned the jig properly before making any modification as drastic as filing something! Those two tabs have screws and elongated adjustment slots. Perhaps one or the other was 'canted' a little left or right from perpendicular. They are adjustable because you do have to do the alignment procedure using the small grooves on top of each side panel as a guide. The complete process is described in the video. I had to loosen the adjustment screws on one side and move the tab very slightly (about 1/64"-ish). This yielded a perfect alignment. No filing required.

Floyd, the jig panels sit raised slightly above the stationary and sliding plates, as Dan mentioned. No worries, this is by design.


EDIT: FYI...I just measured the width of both my tabs with digital calipers as well as a metal ruler. With the calipers, one measures 0.624" and the other 0.623" (essentially 5/8"). Using a metal ruler, it looks like both are dead-on 5/8" (0.625").

bergerud
03-26-2014, 10:45 PM
My tabs are smaller at 0.6130" and 0.6145". They look to have been filed on one side. I suppose the slots on the machines could have some variation as well. A snug fit would be nice.

SteveNelson46
03-26-2014, 10:48 PM
Makes me nervous that someone would file down those tabs. Mine fit snugly and are a perfect fit. It's supposed to be that way so the jig is nice and stable when the head is lowered. Be absolutely sure you have actually positioned the jig properly before making any modification as drastic as filing something! Those two tabs have screws and elongated adjustment slots. Perhaps one or the other was 'canted' a little left or right from perpendicular. They are adjustable because you do have to do the alignment procedure using the small grooves on top of each side panel as a guide. The complete process is described in the video. I had to loosen the adjustment screws on one side and move the tab very slightly (about 1/64"-ish). This yielded a perfect alignment. No filing required.

Floyd, the jig panels sit raised slightly above the stationary and sliding plates, as Dan mentioned. No worries, this is by design.


EDIT: FYI...I just measured the width of both my tabs with digital calipers as well as a metal ruler. With the calipers, one measures 0.624" and the other 0.623" (essentially 5/8"). Using a metal ruler, it looks like both are dead-on 5/8" (0.625").

Michael

When I removed the tab I tried to fit it into the slot and it was still to big. I didn't really remove very much metal from the tab. Most of the adjustment was on the slot in the sliding plate. It's still a snug fit. I didn't think of swapping the tabs.

SteveNelson46
03-26-2014, 10:53 PM
After looking at the design I agree that the jig will not (or should not) sit directly on the plates. If it did chances are the jig drive rollers might not be in good contact with the machine belts and you would not get good traction.

I did pick up in the video that the squaring and calibration should be done for each carve. I did mine with the standard 1/16" carving bit since it has a finer tip vs the 1/8" long bit. Since all of this is done prior to selecting the actual carve project there should not be any problem. Right?

I still feel that a hard copy of the jig set up and calibration should be included with the jig. I am betting there will be at least one who does not do one or the other of the steps and will be reporting about it. Even after watching the videos a couple of times when they came out I picked up some things when I viewed them tonight.

Now off to watch the design layout ones to see what I missed on those. Looking to see about the lead in carve regions and if a feather should be used to ease the bit into the carving..

I agree with Floyd. There should be some sort of printed instructions in the box or at least emailed to all who purchased the jig. The videos on the use of the jig are pretty good but, the video on how to set it up and install it needs a little improvement.

SteveNelson46
03-26-2014, 11:02 PM
After looking at the design I agree that the jig will not (or should not) sit directly on the plates. If it did chances are the jig drive rollers might not be in good contact with the machine belts and you would not get good traction.

I studied the design too but, it looks to me like the jig should set on the squaring plate and the sliding plate. The rollers and the drive belt are the correct distance below the jig to allow the correct amount of pressure on the rubber belts. Too much and there could be damage to the belts. Too little and there could be slippage.

SteveNelson46
03-26-2014, 11:07 PM
All of this controversy could have been avoided with just a minimal amount of documentation.

fwharris
03-26-2014, 11:24 PM
I studied the design too but, it looks to me like the jig should set on the squaring plate and the sliding plate. The rollers and the drive belt are the correct distance below the jig to allow the correct amount of pressure on the rubber belts. Too much and there could be damage to the belts. Too little and there could be slippage.

Steve,
I will get a better look/feel on mine tomorrow. I will remove the tabs so I can get a better look at how they fit into the slots. They felt like the had some drag when first meeting up with the slot. Will also look at their edges to make sure there are no burrs.



My thinking on the "should be or not be" sitting on the plates is the jig should sit a little above them to insure the head is forcing the jig rollers down onto the drive belts to make a good contact. If the it sat on the plate then there could be an outside chance of not getting good enough contact for good tracking.

Off to the software thread! :D

bergerud
03-26-2014, 11:28 PM
The machine is not designed to sit on the plates. The plates would just bend under the head pressure if they did. The sliding plate would bend the rod below pushing the plate into the belts. The squaring plate would bend down taking the tracking roller with it into the belt.

blhutchens
03-26-2014, 11:36 PM
I have many times felt like I was given this machine by aliens. I spend more time experimenting to reverse engineer the thing and discover how it works (or how it is programed) than I do carving.

Sometimes I think its the Devil hisself…. spend time mucking with it instead of working on moneymaking projects in the shop.

mtylerfl
03-26-2014, 11:45 PM
Michael

When I removed the tab I tried to fit it into the slot and it was still to big. I didn't really remove very much metal from the tab. Most of the adjustment was on the slot in the sliding plate. It's still a snug fit. I didn't think of swapping the tabs.

Sounds like you'll be fine then. Please show us a pic or two of your first carve when it's ready!

fwharris
03-27-2014, 12:03 AM
The machine is not designed to sit on the plates. The plates would just bend under the head pressure if they did. The sliding plate would bend the rod below pushing the plate into the belts. The squaring plate would bend down taking the tracking roller with it into the belt.

Great point and I agree! When using the jig it should also be a good time to verify the head pressure before starting. If to high it could cause all kinds of drive problems and to low bad traction.

SteveNelson46
03-27-2014, 01:21 AM
The machine is not designed to sit on the plates. The plates would just bend under the head pressure if they did. The sliding plate would bend the rod below pushing the plate into the belts. The squaring plate would bend down taking the tracking roller with it into the belt.

Either we are talking about different things or I'm confused. In the video, Joe specifically states that the jig sets on the squaring plate and the sliding plate.

These are the exact quotes from the video:

"Set the jig on the squaring plate with the tab slotted into the space behind the tracking roller."
"Move the sliding plate over so the jig sets on top of it and the tab fits into the center slot"

I just finished a flawless 4 hour carve with the jig set like this. Michael was right. It over carved about 5%.

SteveNelson46
03-27-2014, 01:32 AM
Adding a little more to the setup. After the blank was mounted I tried rolling the mechanism to make sure everything was okay. It rolled smoothly most of the way around but, at a specific spot it would sort of drag and felt like there was a rough spot. A drop of chain lube with moly on the bearings solved the roughness.

fwharris
03-27-2014, 01:41 AM
Adding a little more to the setup. After the blank was mounted I tried rolling the mechanism to make sure everything was okay. It rolled smoothly most of the way around but, at a specific spot it would sort of drag and felt like there was a rough spot. A drop of chain lube with moly on the bearings solved the roughness.

Thanks for the tip! How were you rolling it?

On your other post before this one, That is why I asked the question ;).

mtylerfl
03-27-2014, 07:17 AM
Either we are talking about different things or I'm confused. In the video, Joe specifically states that the jig sets on the squaring plate and the sliding plate.

These are the exact quotes from the video:

"Set the jig on the squaring plate with the tab slotted into the space behind the tracking roller."
"Move the sliding plate over so the jig sets on top of it and the tab fits into the center slot"

I just finished a flawless 4 hour carve with the jig set like this. Michael was right. It over carved about 5%.

Hi Steve,

Glad the first carve went flawlessly! Fun stuff isn't it?!

I think what Joe meant to say in the video was to set the jig "over the top of" the sliding plate not "on". I can see where the choice of words could be taken wrong. He didn't mean that it would literally "touch" or "rest upon" the plate(s). As you can tell, the jig cannot touch the plates anyway, as the drive mechanism and rollers keep it slightly raised above them (on purpose).

RMarkey
03-27-2014, 09:26 AM
The first (like Dan's) metal tabs were hand made. Subsequent ones were machined, but they were slightly large. We've been filing them down here by hand during our assembly. It wouldn't surprise me that we missed one or didn't file some of them enough.

fwharris
03-27-2014, 09:54 AM
The first (like Dan's) metal tabs were hand made. Subsequent ones were machined, but they were slightly large. We've been filing them down here by hand during our assembly. It wouldn't surprise me that we missed one or didn't file some of them enough.

Thanks for the info!

SteveNelson46
03-27-2014, 10:59 AM
Hi Steve,

Glad the first carve went flawlessly! Fun stuff isn't it?!

I think what Joe meant to say in the video was to set the jig "over the top of" the sliding plate not "on". I can see where the choice of words could be taken wrong. He didn't mean that it would literally "touch" or "rest upon" the plate(s). As you can tell, the jig cannot touch the plates anyway, as the drive mechanism and rollers keep it slightly raised above them (on purpose).

Michael,

You're right. The belt-drive and the rollers on the jig are far enough below the aluminum end plates so the aluminum end plates can't touch the squaring plate or the sliding plate regardless of where they are placed. Its the aluminum end plates that I was referring to in my previous post. However, by sliding the jig over as far to the left (keyboard end) as possible allows more of the tracking roller to be exposed to the belt-drive on the jig. I think this was the problem on the first calibration attempt . I'm not sure though.

SteveNelson46
03-27-2014, 11:09 AM
The first (like Dan's) metal tabs were hand made. Subsequent ones were machined, but they were slightly large. We've been filing them down here by hand during our assembly. It wouldn't surprise me that we missed one or didn't file some of them enough.

Thanks Metallus. At least now I know I didn't do the wrong thing by filing down the tabs. Also, I did try to maintain a snug fit without having to force the tab into the slot.

mtylerfl
03-27-2014, 12:14 PM
Thanks Metallus. At least now I know I didn't do the wrong thing by filing down the tabs. Also, I did try to maintain a snug fit without having to force the tab into the slot.

Good deal! Now we know.