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James RS
03-18-2014, 04:53 PM
I am watching the video on the new rotary jig and I like it.
Questions:
1 - Do you have to have the new designer?
2- Is there a bundle discount if you buy the 2 together?

Many Thanks,
Jim

lynnfrwd
03-18-2014, 04:59 PM
I am watching the video on the new rotary jig and I like it.
Questions:
1 - Do you have to have the new designer?

Yes, and you need to be running the new version 2.005.

ALL NEW FEATURES will be added to the LATEST VERSION OF SOFTWARE ONLY.


2- Is there a bundle discount if you buy the 2 together?

No.

Metallus
03-18-2014, 05:05 PM
Predator as a rotary project. Carved from a 4x4. Imported with the STL importer.
68276

James RS
03-18-2014, 05:13 PM
I forgot another question, can you import a 3d stl file ( having stl importer)
and unwrap or carve it as is

jlovchik
03-18-2014, 05:18 PM
Yes you can. There is a new option in the STL importer for rotary that creates a 4.25" cylinder for you to position the piece you want to import.

fwharris
03-18-2014, 05:24 PM
Watching the videos now, on the last one for STL imports.. Lots of possibilities have been opened up!

jab73180
03-18-2014, 05:30 PM
All the more reason to have a wider machine now!

James RS
03-18-2014, 05:32 PM
So I wouldn't have to unwrap my file to carve it


Yes you can. There is a new option in the STL importer for rotary that creates a 4.25" cylinder for you to position the piece you want to import.

eelamb
03-18-2014, 05:42 PM
Since it uses metal rollers, I would say it requires the rubber belts too.
(looks like a belt drive to the screw chuck that touches the rubber traction belts)

Thus you need:
designer 2.005
the rotary jig and software
rubber belts
long carving bit

Anything else required if purchasing the rotary jig?

RogerB
03-18-2014, 05:47 PM
Do we have to update STL

lynnfrwd
03-18-2014, 05:51 PM
Do we have to update STL

STL is updated automagically when you update to 2.005.

jab73180
03-18-2014, 05:53 PM
automagically


I don't know if that's a mistake or not........genius

lynnfrwd
03-18-2014, 05:55 PM
Automagically was spelled correctly, but forgot d on updated.

fwharris
03-18-2014, 05:57 PM
Guess there is no "demo mode" for the rotary jig features??

RogerB
03-18-2014, 06:02 PM
Thanks going to have to go to the bank for all the upgrades :(

eelamb
03-18-2014, 06:08 PM
Roger I would have to rob it, or get a loan.

I do like what I see in the software for the rotary jig and the new feature for STL imported.

lynnfrwd
03-18-2014, 06:24 PM
Since it uses metal rollers, I would say it requires the rubber belts too.
(looks like a belt drive to the screw chuck that touches the rubber traction belts)

Thus you need:
designer 2.005
the rotary jig and software
rubber belts
long carving bit

Anything else required if purchasing the rotary jig?

Yes, rubber belts are needed.

Of course, if you want to use any advanced features like STL Importer, Centerline, Conforming Vectors, 2d Vector Suite, etc. You will have to have the license for that.

eelamb
03-18-2014, 07:23 PM
If one purchases the rotary jig, I would suggest they also get the 3d suite (for profiles), and stl importer (for there are a ton of stl files out there in 3d).

SteveNelson46
03-18-2014, 07:23 PM
The videos are impressive and opens up a lot of creative possibilities. If it works as shown in the videos it will replace and/or enhance some of the lathe projects I have planned for the future. I will post more details after I receive the jig and do a few experimental projects. Hats off to the development team.

tierman
03-18-2014, 07:29 PM
Does the upgrade to 2.005 address the issues involving the "Rock" chuck?

lynnfrwd
03-18-2014, 07:40 PM
Look in the read me notes. I think it does.

bergerud
03-18-2014, 07:42 PM
The bit problems at the bit plate should be fixed and things back to the way they were. Using the Rock with the deep bits or the rotary jig is yet a different problem. I think the Rock would actually hit a dowel of diameter 4.25" in the jig.

Digitalwoodshop
03-18-2014, 07:46 PM
Color me Impressed..... A +1 to a Hats off to the Development Team...

AL

liquidguitars
03-18-2014, 07:49 PM
The videos are impressive and opens up a lot of creative possibilities.

I am having a blast with this new software can't wait to turn something!

68282

SteveNelson46
03-18-2014, 07:51 PM
I wonder if a manual will be available soon?

lynnfrwd
03-18-2014, 07:54 PM
I doubt it.

fwharris
03-18-2014, 08:03 PM
Color me Impressed..... A +1 to a Hats off to the Development Team...

AL

I have to agree with you on this on Al! Just wished we had it in demo mode to play and drool!

Metallus
03-18-2014, 08:16 PM
of course you can demo the rotary...

ok, I stand corrected. Sorry about that. There are no demo features for the rotary software.

cestout
03-18-2014, 08:18 PM
I was saving up for STL Importer, now you do this to me! I hope the WW show comes to Southern California again soon and that I can sell a bunch of machines.
Clint

mtylerfl
03-18-2014, 08:23 PM
Scale modelers will have a lot of fun with the STL Importer and the new Rotary Jig! I found a free 3D model of an oak barrel and imported it into Designer via the CarveWright STL Importer. It unwraps the 3D model and actually sets up the basic Rotary project automatically, but I edited the file to include two barrels on a 6" long 2x2 pine stock (actual dimensions 1.5" inside 'diameter' x 2" diagonal to the corners outside 'diameter').

The barrel is the perfect size for G-Scale train scenes (each barrel is about 1.75" tall x 1.25" dia. at the bilge). The miniature barrels can be used for dollhouses as a rain barrel, or as an accessory for other "miniature" model/scenes (for a model Ship, an 'old' Military scene, etc.).

Here's some pics of my cute little barrels!...

fwharris
03-18-2014, 08:34 PM
of course you can demo the rotary...

Clue me in please! When I open a new board the "rotary" tab does not work..

Metallus
03-18-2014, 08:35 PM
For those who are unable to "demo" the 2.005 software because their 30-day trial has expired, here's what you do:

Download the license cleaner here:
http://www.carvewright.com/assets/downloads/CWLicClean.exe

Run the program.

UNCHECK the option "Repair 1.XXX Licenses (user)"

Only the "Repair 2.XXX Licenses (user)" should be checked. Press "install". This removes all 2.XXX licenses, including the 30-day 2.XXX time limit.

Metallus
03-18-2014, 08:38 PM
Clue me in please! When I open a new board the "rotary" tab does not work..

Well, I spoke without testing it, so I apologize. Looks like there are no rotary demo features.

fwharris
03-18-2014, 08:47 PM
Well, I spoke without testing it, so I apologize.

No problem sir! I had already asked Connie and Joe about this and they said I could not be run in demo mode. Thought maybe you had some inside info ;)

ladjr
03-18-2014, 09:23 PM
Someone hit this one out of the park. In reading the forum at the being it talks like the Jig and software are price separate. I thought $350.00 got everything you need. Software and Jig.

Also will it work with the scanner.

Metallus
03-18-2014, 09:32 PM
The $350 comes with the jig and software, but remember that a 2.0 license is required.

No, it does not work with the scanner.

ladjr
03-18-2014, 09:45 PM
The $350 comes with the jig and software, but remember that a 2.0 license is required.

No, it does not work with the scanner.

Thanks for your help

Geomoo1
03-18-2014, 10:37 PM
Does the jig work with the ringneck vacuum? Or any vacuum attachments for that matter. It looks like there isn't enough room with the jig attached.

lynnfrwd
03-18-2014, 10:40 PM
I believe we run it with it. Know we do.

bergerud
03-18-2014, 10:42 PM
I think all the current vacuum systems will still fit. They may have a hard time getting the dust because of the depth and openness of the operation.

liquidguitars
03-18-2014, 10:43 PM
Does the jig work with the ringneck vacuum? Or any vacuum attachments for that matter. It looks like there isn't enough room with the jig attached.

I just had a chance to set the lathe in one of my CW's and it looks like it will work with his DC. I will know more later and report.

fwharris
03-18-2014, 10:46 PM
I think all the current vacuum systems will still fit. They may have a hard time getting the dust because of the depth and openness of the operation.

Send me a jig and I will let everyone know!! :razz: My best guess the attachments would still pick up the majority of the dust but not as much as using a standard board. With Ed's jig I did add a suction line on the left side but his had a closed bottom and the new one is open.

aokweld101
03-18-2014, 10:56 PM
Every time I think I have it all...They come up with something new....GEEZE....

Foggycarver
03-18-2014, 11:07 PM
Every time I think I have it all...They come up with something new....GEEZE....



That is what i was thinking too ! I'm thinking somehow i need to make an expanding mandrel for the center drive where the screw chuck is. What we need to do is figure out how to mount a mini three jaw chuck or a collet chuck to hold wood. Then you can have endless possible work holding possibilities. I want an expanding mandrel mounted where the screw chuck is to mount blanks with a 5/8" through hole in. Oh the new ideas :)

papawbummie
03-19-2014, 08:43 AM
Do you need to buy the STL and 3D software to do the things in the tutorial Thanks Bert

lynnfrwd
03-19-2014, 08:48 AM
If you are going to use advanced features like STL, you have to have a license for it. So, yes.

blhutchens
03-19-2014, 10:08 AM
Ok….anyone thought of a rotary jig that works on the x axis? At least long enough to do stair spindles/ballusteres, or table legs.
Not complaining, just saying ……………...

bergerud
03-19-2014, 10:15 AM
I have thought about it. The problem to me is that the poor y drive would have to roll the dowel. It is under enough load as it is.

henry1
03-19-2014, 10:41 AM
I have thought about it. The problem to me is that the poor y drive would have to roll the dowel. It is under enough load as it is.
Have to agree with you

SteveNelson46
03-19-2014, 10:50 AM
Ok….anyone thought of a rotary jig that works on the x axis? At least long enough to do stair spindles/ballusteres, or table legs.
Not complaining, just saying ……………...

I'm not sure that is logistically possible since the Y and the Z axis are essentially on the same truck.

SteveEJ
03-19-2014, 03:05 PM
Unless there was a connector already on the machine that would control a fourth axis on that type of jig. Basically center the current 'Y' (fine tune in software if necessary) and have another controller that rotates the 'Y' axis basically making it a 4th axis. That's the way Legacy does it on their 4 axis machines. The 'X' would function as it does today, the 'Y' would be transferred to the new servo and the 'Z' would function as it does today.

Interesting thought..

dltccf
03-19-2014, 03:33 PM
So for a whole lot of us the actual cost will be $200 for 2.0, plus $350 for the jig, plus $80 for the bit. Any chance there will be a bundle to make it less than $630?

dave

cestout
03-19-2014, 03:44 PM
For longer "turnings", since you will already have the center hole marked, drill it deeper before you cut the turning loose, then attach the pieces with double ended threaded studs. If you add some glue it should be pretty solid.

Everybody talks about places to download STL files, but I don't fine much that will be useful for the CW.
Clint

blhutchens
03-19-2014, 03:54 PM
[QUOTE=cestout;224247]For longer "turnings", since you will already have the center hole marked, drill it deeper before you cut the turning loose, then attach the pieces with double ended threaded studs. If you add some glue it should be pretty solid.

Yes I can make them with the machine as is without the rotary jig. I have done 4 sided carves……. very time consuming on carve time and design to get it all to work.

as far as the stl files go I have gotten some from thingiverse…. 3d printers use stl files

liquidguitars
03-19-2014, 03:54 PM
Joe made some quick videos...


Overall the software uses Designers tools so its powerful and simple to make things.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3Hv52VRJsE&list=UU8cIH4Z8WorEtHx4qMoZGzQ

James RS
03-19-2014, 04:01 PM
Longworth chuck made smaller,check Youtube


That is what i was thinking too ! I'm thinking somehow i need to make an expanding mandrel for the center drive where the screw chuck is. What we need to do is figure out how to mount a mini three jaw chuck or a collet chuck to hold wood. Then you can have endless possible work holding possibilities. I want an expanding mandrel mounted where the screw chuck is to mount blanks with a 5/8" through hole in. Oh the new ideas :)

blhutchens
03-19-2014, 04:02 PM
Unless there was a connector already on the machine that would control a fourth axis on that type of jig. Basically center the current 'Y' (fine tune in software if necessary) and have another controller that rotates the 'Y' axis basically making it a 4th axis. That's the way Legacy does it on their 4 axis machines. The 'X' would function as it does today, the 'Y' would be transferred to the new servo and the 'Z' would function as it does today.

Interesting thought..

I have seen the Legacy and it too is limited to the width of the y axis. That was my first thought on it……..why not rotate it 90 degrees to get the length of the x axis.
You are correct though it functions off of a 4th axis to rotate it.

Sounds like we are stepping into the realm of $20,000 plus machinery………………..

James RS
03-19-2014, 04:03 PM
Don't forget rubber belts are needed to run it


So for a whole lot of us the actual cost will be $200 for 2.0, plus $350 for the jig, plus $80 for the bit. Any chance there will be a bundle to make it less than $630?

dave

blhutchens
03-19-2014, 04:13 PM
Joe made some quick videos...


Overall the software uses Designers tools so its powerful and simple to make things.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3Hv52VRJsE&list=UU8cIH4Z8WorEtHx4qMoZGzQ


I have been watching them between carves. Great job Joe!!! Great software, great tool. Everything great has a cost.

Digitalwoodshop
03-19-2014, 04:15 PM
Edit :Caution: "Off topic dreaming out loud... not an actual product...."

My thinking on the X Version of the Rotary is where you un plug the Y Servo Power and pin the Y to the center of the machine with a mechanical lock. You then use the Y Drive to turn a Gearbox Version like the X Drive at the far end of the Rotary Sled to rotate your blank. You either plug the X Sled into the Probe Jack on the inside of the cover or into the Y Motor connector...

Just dreaming out loud...

AL

lynnfrwd
03-19-2014, 04:20 PM
So for a whole lot of us the actual cost will be $200 for 2.0, plus $350 for the jig, plus $80 for the bit. Any chance there will be a bundle to make it less than $630?

dave

Not at this time.




Designer 2.0 has been out since July 2013 and has been offered on sale during that time.

The long bits have been out since November 2013 and have also been on sale, since then.

And if you've haven't upgraded to the heavy duty traction belts, those have been out since like 2009.

blhutchens
03-19-2014, 04:25 PM
My thinking on the X Version of the Rotary is where you un plug the Y Servo Power and pin the Y to the center of the machine with a mechanical lock. You then use the Y Drive to turn a Gearbox Version like the X Drive at the far end of the Rotary Sled to rotate your blank. You either plug the X Sled into the Probe Jack on the inside of the cover or into the Y Motor connector...

Just dreaming out loud...

AL


Me too! Just trying to scrape together the $350 plus tax, shipping, and second long bit is enough of a mental test without trying to improve on what is offered.

lynnfrwd
03-19-2014, 04:47 PM
My thinking on the X Version of the Rotary is where you un plug the Y Servo Power and pin the Y to the center of the machine with a mechanical lock. You then use the Y Drive to turn a Gearbox Version like the X Drive at the far end of the Rotary Sled to rotate your blank. You either plug the X Sled into the Probe Jack on the inside of the cover or into the Y Motor connector...

Just dreaming out loud...

AL

You guys are confusing people with what is real and what is on your wish list.

blhutchens
03-19-2014, 04:51 PM
Sorry….I started it. I will try to keep on subject.

skeeterman
03-19-2014, 05:11 PM
I guess i missed somethin, Why do you have to have the rubber belts? just curious .

lynnfrwd
03-19-2014, 05:18 PM
I guess i missed somethin, Why do you have to have the rubber belts? just curious .

I guess it is to have enough traction to turn the rotary.

ladjr
03-19-2014, 05:28 PM
I have been trying to get a spiral effect with the new software. Any ideas

bergerud
03-19-2014, 05:29 PM
I guess i missed somethin, Why do you have to have the rubber belts? just curious .

I am not certain. I was never told why. I assume it is because the roller bearings on the tail stock would crush the sand on the belts and/or belt drift.

lynnfrwd
03-19-2014, 05:48 PM
I have been trying to get a spiral effect with the new software. Any ideas

Spiral feature has been absent since 2012.

dltccf
03-19-2014, 05:51 PM
I have been trying to get a spiral effect with the new software. Any ideas

I don't have the new software yet, but from watching the videos I think if you did something like this with the 3d tools it would give you what you are looking for:

68298

I drew a rectangle and then used extrude and set the angle to 45.
dave

eelamb
03-19-2014, 06:37 PM
So for a whole lot of us the actual cost will be $200 for 2.0, plus $350 for the jig, plus $80 for the bit. Any chance there will be a bundle to make it less than $630?

dave

As mentioned add the rubber traction belts, if you do not have them, then if you have the ROCK, you may need the carvetight chuck on top of that.
The jig and the software look well worth the price of $350, if you want to do rotary carvings. For me the cost would be close to $1,000 to get there. Mine is purely a hobby machine, used rarely now days.

As Connie said it is a wish list and not a necessity. Mine works great the way it is.

Alan Malmstrom
03-19-2014, 10:43 PM
I'd have to come up with $630 and then $140 for the belts. That's $770. It looks like a good thing. I would love to have this set up. I already got STL Importer.

mtylerfl
03-19-2014, 11:09 PM
I have been trying to get a spiral effect with the new software. Any ideas

Hi Leo,

I just carved a barley twist this afternoon. I'll include my MPC and a couple pics.

Basic steps as I recall:

On the Rotary MPC (11"x1.406 dia. x1.406 part off dia.), I drew a rectangle (no particular size, as I was just playing around). I then used the puff/round to create a .5" puff. I grouped this then selected Make Pattern. I deleted my rectangle puff and replaced it with the new PTN I just created. I angled it to 43 degrees, then used Array Copy/vertical to make a bunch of copies. then played around with arranging the copy group until I came up with the final MPC. I used a 11.5"-long piece of standard 2x2 pine to place into the jig.

The carve does yield slightly raised seams all around, since I cannot tweak the angle in fractions (only whole numbers). But, I just sanded them off after the carve was done. Also, every rotary carve will purposely overcarve by about 3%. In this case, I noticed the overcarve was creating a slight visible line that would need to be sanded out, so I just stopped at 101%. The wood itself was flexing on its own and was the cause of the "marks"...not because of the jig or bit slip or anything of the sort...it's just a natural occurrence for freshly machined wood.

I left the wood in the jig for sanding. I've found it makes a handy/dandy "holder" for sanding in the round!

SteveNelson46
03-20-2014, 01:03 PM
Hi Leo,

I just carved a barley twist this afternoon. I'll include my MPC and a couple pics.

Basic steps as I recall:

On the Rotary MPC (11"x1.406 dia. x1.406 part off dia.), I drew a rectangle (no particular size, as I was just playing around). I then used the puff/round to create a .5" puff. I grouped this then selected Make Pattern. I deleted my rectangle puff and replaced it with the new PTN I just created. I angled it to 43 degrees, then used Array Copy/vertical to make a bunch of copies. then played around with arranging the copy group until I came up with the final MPC. I used a 11.5"-long piece of standard 2x2 pine to place into the jig.

The carve does yield slightly raised seams all around, since I cannot tweak the angle in fractions (only whole numbers). But, I just sanded them off after the carve was done. Also, every rotary carve will purposely overcarve by about 3%. In this case, I noticed the overcarve was creating a slight visible line that would need to be sanded out, so I just stopped at 101%. The wood itself was flexing on its own and was the cause of the "marks"...not because of the jig or bit slip or anything of the sort...it's just a natural occurrence for freshly machined wood.

I left the wood in the jig for sanding. I've found it makes a handy/dandy "holder" for sanding in the round!

Michael,

How did you come up with the 43 degree rotation?

SteveNelson46
03-20-2014, 01:24 PM
Okay, I tried MT's example for a barley twist on the rotary jig. The project came out really good on the computer so I am very anxious to carve it. It will probably be my first rotary project when I receive the jig in the mail.

THANKS MT!!!

ladjr
03-20-2014, 01:37 PM
Thanks Michael. As usual I will need time to absorb what you did. I can't wait until my jig arrives. The projects are lining up.

eelamb
03-20-2014, 04:58 PM
For the bata testers here are a few items to try. Also for the ones when they get their jig.
For each file download, then change the extension to STL. Current extension is so I could upload the file here.

ladjr
03-20-2014, 09:02 PM
For the bata testers here are a few items to try. Also for the ones when they get their jig.
For each file download, then change the extension to STL. Current extension is so I could upload the file here.

Eddie those are cool. As usual

Thanks

SteveNelson46
03-20-2014, 10:10 PM
For the bata testers here are a few items to try. Also for the ones when they get their jig.
For each file download, then change the extension to STL. Current extension is so I could upload the file here.

Eddie,

I cant open the "twist720,pdf". The error message says there is something wrong with the file.

eelamb
03-20-2014, 10:25 PM
Steve did you change the extension to stl? Or PM me Steve with an email and I will send the file to you.

Here is a rope made the way a real rope is made. Comes out to be about 1.3 dia, and 12" long.
If interested in this one PM me with an email address. STL file is a little over 8Meg in size

SteveNelson46
03-20-2014, 10:38 PM
Steve did you change the extension to stl? Or PM me Steve with an email and I will send the file to you.

Here is a rope made the way a real rope is made. Comes out to be about 1.3 dia, and 12" long.
If interested in this one PM me with an email address. STL file is a little over 8Meg in size

Eddie,

I'm not having a problem with the .stl files. Just the .PDF

eelamb
03-20-2014, 10:46 PM
Steve all the files are STL files. All must have the extension changed to stl. I used PDF since the one file was larger than the dxf would allow. Thus one file I made the extension pdf only so I could upload it. The real extension is STL.

mtylerfl
03-20-2014, 11:11 PM
Michael,

How did you come up with the 43 degree rotation?

Trial and error...nothing scientific at all. I created the entire project rather 'randomly' with no forethought whatsoever. Took maybe 5 minutes, if that. I began with 45 degrees, thinking that would work, but it didn't. Played with the angle until it simply 'looked' alright. :D

SteveNelson46
03-20-2014, 11:55 PM
Steve all the files are STL files. All must have the extension changed to stl. I used PDF since the one file was larger than the dxf would allow. Thus one file I made the extension pdf only so I could upload it. The real extension is STL.

I once was blind and now I see. Thanks Eddie.

SteveNelson46
03-21-2014, 12:01 AM
For the bata testers here are a few items to try. Also for the ones when they get their jig.
For each file download, then change the extension to STL. Current extension is so I could upload the file here.

When you import the .stl, which way do you rotate for the final slice so they can be used by the Designer?

mtylerfl
03-21-2014, 12:04 AM
When you import the .stl, which way do you rotate for the final slice so they can be used by the Designer?

On Eddie's files, it looks like the "Rotate the model 90 degrees about the X axis" will get them in the correct orientation.

Note this can vary for other models...it depends on how the original models were oriented before saving to STL.

SteveNelson46
03-21-2014, 12:31 AM
On Eddie's files, it looks like the "Rotate the model 90 degrees about the X axis" will get them in the correct orientation.

Note this can vary for other models...it depends on how the original models were oriented before saving to STL.

Thanks Michael. I'm still having some difficulty getting the pattern to carve all the way around and still look good.

eelamb
03-21-2014, 07:26 AM
Thanks Michael, 90 deg is correct.

Here is a cable file in STL. Again it is too large to post here 3.76M so pm me with email and I will send it to you if you want it. Oh I rotated it 90 deg. This is a 180 twist. Meaning from the start to the top it is twisted 180 deg.

eelamb
03-21-2014, 01:20 PM
MUST remember to write better notes.
I believe this is an unwrapped version of the rope I posted earlier. This will carve in Ed's rotary jig.

Maybe even in the new software too?

cestout
03-21-2014, 02:00 PM
Can you put the grid on the project screen? It doesn't show it in the demo video, but that would help aligning patterns for the wrap around. Also, don't you loose detail using an 1/8 in bin instead of 1/16?
Clint

SteveNelson46
03-21-2014, 02:23 PM
Can you put the grid on the project screen? It doesn't show it in the demo video, but that would help aligning patterns for the wrap around. Also, don't you loose detail using an 1/8 in bin instead of 1/16?
Clint

Yes you can. I just tried it. Maybe someone else that has a jig can answer the loss of detail question. Mine hasn't come in the mail yet. However, Joe discusses it in one of the videos.

mtylerfl
03-21-2014, 02:31 PM
Quick Tip for soon-to-be Rotary Jig Users:

If you are using "square stock" instead of rounded-off stock or dowels, you need to remember to input the widest diameter of the stock during project setup at the machine (i.e., on square stock this would be the measurement from corner-to-corner, NOT the diameter of the project).

At the machine during setup for rotary, you will select the widest diameter from a preset list (as close as possible) in .25" increments...go up to the next BIGGER diameter by .25" if your stock is even slightly over a diameter choice in the list. For example, on 2x2 square stock, I measured from the diagonal corners about 2.0625" so I had to choose 2.25" as the diameter during setup. This assures the bit will clear the corners of the stock while it rotates during carving without snapping your bit.

Metallus
03-21-2014, 03:13 PM
the loss of detail question
Carve quality/detail is tough to explain for the rotary.

Technically, as you carve deeper, the detail increases.

The carve quality setting (draft/.../optimal) it mapped to the top of the board -- the outermost diameter. Carving a large board in draft quality down to a small diameter is effectively carving it to super-ultra-optimal-quality (although the bit moves faster, which can affect quality).

Also, bit optimization was not built for polar coordinates, so results can be somewhat unpredictable. I've found that the results from the jig usually exceed my expectations from what the Designer shows.

Like the predator head... the 4 front teeth shows 'uncarveable' regions behind them, but they were actually carved in the result. And all that detail was with the 8th inch bit. You can find that model on turbosquid.

eelamb
03-21-2014, 09:11 PM
Anyone for a little wine.

I see STL has been added, but the 1.91M max is really small for an stl file.
Although, I got this one to 518K with low poly and it still looks rounded.

Edit: the wine glas1 will carve smoother. The other will have flat squares from the low poly quads.

fwharris
03-21-2014, 11:36 PM
Anyone for a little wine.

I see STL has been added, but the 1.91M max is really small for an stl file.
Although, I got this one to 518K with low poly and it still looks rounded.

Edit: the wine glas1 will carve smoother. The other will have flat squares from the low poly quads.

Here it is in designer..

liquidguitars
03-22-2014, 05:05 PM
I was able to carve this a few days ago no STL's I used the stock 3/16 carving bit and a 2.25" ash blank without dog ears.

Once you get calibrated it simple to use. Thanks LHR!





68388

eelamb
03-22-2014, 05:17 PM
Nice work LG. Are you using the rock or the carvetight?

liquidguitars
03-22-2014, 05:28 PM
Using the CT the Rocks are on sandpaper belts right now but i think it will work..

BTW I had to clean up one of my rubber belts as i cut it off a 1/2" a few years ago to keep them from rubbing the Brass AUX roller
The fix was not bad I removed the belt and drilled new holes for the plastic " keeper" to keep the belt in place.

eelamb
03-22-2014, 05:55 PM
LG, I think you are right on the rock. My concern would be with the long bits. Something like what you did, would not require the deeper cuts.
LHR did a great job from what I see on the software and the jig.

On post 89, I uploaded an mpc of the rope unwrapped. Can someone tell me if it loads into the new software? Curious as to how the new rotary software saved the mpc of the unwrapped patterm, or PTN for that matter. If it saves as unwrapped, then will those with Ed's rotary jig be able to use them (as long as they meet the specs on his jig).

bergerud
03-22-2014, 06:06 PM
I think there are two problems with the Rock and the rotary jig. One is that it cannot hold the deep bits. The other is that larger diameter dowels will actually hit the chuck. I do not think those square corners on LG's column would have cleared the Rock. There should, however, be a range of rotary projects that the Rock could do.

liquidguitars
03-22-2014, 06:49 PM
be a range of rotary projects that the Rock could do.

Agreed I was thinking about the shorter bits... as it stands now that all i can do anyway. lol.

liquidguitars
03-22-2014, 06:55 PM
One more for 2.05 Rotary people. This was a STL I made imported to a larger Rotary size, then I adjusted to fit a 2.5 dowel... try scaling the Rotery raster to get more twists///

setup for the 3/16 ball.

SteveNelson46
03-22-2014, 07:45 PM
On post 89, I uploaded an mpc of the rope unwrapped. Can someone tell me if it loads into the new software? Curious as to how the new rotary software saved the mpc of the unwrapped patterm, or PTN for that matter. If it saves as unwrapped, then will those with Ed's rotary jig be able to use them (as long as they meet the specs on his jig).

I opened the project and copied the pattern to a new rotary project and it loaded just fine. Just have to make sure the diameter is set to the same width as the pattern.

eelamb
03-22-2014, 08:36 PM
Thanks Steve. If you create a pattern in the new software and save it, doe sit save as the unwrapped pattern in PTN format? If so then maybe those with Ed's jig can use the patterns.

SteveNelson46
03-22-2014, 08:43 PM
Thanks Steve. If you create a pattern in the new software and save it, doe sit save as the unwrapped pattern in PTN format? If so then maybe those with Ed's jig can use the patterns.

Eddie

I'm pretty sure that a pattern created in the new rotary project mode is the same as a pattern created in the normal board mode. It's the mode you're in as to how the pattern is viewed and carved.

blhutchens
03-22-2014, 08:48 PM
Thanks Steve. If you create a pattern in the new software and save it, doe sit save as the unwrapped pattern in PTN format? If so then maybe those with Ed's jig can use the patterns.

yes.. you have to save the pattern to the library then select and save i think, my head is spinning with this new software gears are turnin and don't remember …just did it.
.

it would be nice if we had the option to save as a 3d file.

eelamb
03-22-2014, 09:02 PM
That is good to know, thanks. I am just trying to fill in the blanks here.

blhutchens
03-22-2014, 09:26 PM
try this one

eelamb
03-22-2014, 09:33 PM
That is a nice one, save it as a PTN to see if those with designer less than 2.x can open it.

blhutchens
03-22-2014, 09:39 PM
heres the pattern

I did not make this just grabbed it form sketch up and exported as stl then imported to designer

eelamb
03-22-2014, 09:54 PM
Well I can confirm you can open it in version 1.187 of designer. Course you see the unwrapped pattern, but that is good enough. So with a little modifications anyone with Ed's rotary jig can carve it too, if the creator saves, and uploads the pattern in PTN format. Modifications are to make it fit Ed's jig requirement, if the PTN does not currently meet the 2" dia. restrictions.

That is fine about the creation, it is to help us to understand what can be done.

blhutchens
03-22-2014, 09:59 PM
I thought it would work. I also bought an old rotary pattern from the depot . it loaded right in so older stuff still work on 2.005

eelamb
03-22-2014, 10:07 PM
I thought it would work. I also bought an old rotary pattern from the depot . it loaded right in so older stuff still work on 2.005

You could have just loaded the rope I posted in post 89. It was done in 1.187, I do not have Ed's jig, nor the new jig, nor designer 2.x.

blhutchens
03-22-2014, 10:22 PM
I did. then started playin, makin my own. software is awesome . Thinking about gears ,splines and threads carved on the rotary has opened a whole new realm.

eelamb
03-22-2014, 10:46 PM
Try this thread I made a bolt with threads on it. The PTN file is there.
http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?22446-a-thread-about-threads&highlight=bolt+threads

bergerud
03-22-2014, 10:52 PM
I did. then started playin, makin my own. software is awesome . Thinking about gears ,splines and threads carved on the rotary has opened a whole new realm.

I was trying some gears just the other day.

eelamb
03-22-2014, 11:01 PM
Nice work Dan.

blhutchens
03-22-2014, 11:06 PM
Awesome !!! I was working with a pinion gear earlier. Tilt works with the 2.005 rotary, but copy offset doesn't so back to copy, paste, align…………….

fwharris
03-22-2014, 11:12 PM
Working on an idea for a local guy. Keepsake urn vases. Link to his site for what he wants me to try. Plan would be to drill out the centers and top would be like a cork.

http://bigurn.com/BKFull.html


(http://bigurn.com/BKFull.html)

Russel
03-23-2014, 10:04 AM
Does 2.005 include any features that allow demo mode for rotary carving, or is that feature totally contained in the rotary jig accompanying software? I played with demo mode of the 3d suite for a long time before purchasing it. I really appreciated having the demo option. I presently have 1.187 and see a BIG expenditure coming if I need to buy 2.005, rotary jig and software, one or two long carving bits. Ok, so I'm cheap, but also of little funds to afford such a layout all at once.

fwharris
03-23-2014, 11:08 AM
Does 2.005 include any features that allow demo mode for rotary carving, or is that feature totally contained in the rotary jig accompanying software? I played with demo mode of the 3d suite for a long time before purchasing it. I really appreciated having the demo option. I presently have 1.187 and see a BIG expenditure coming if I need to buy 2.005, rotary jig and software, one or two long carving bits. Ok, so I'm cheap, but also of little funds to afford such a layout all at once.

Sorry to say that the rotary jig does not have a demo mode.

James RS
03-23-2014, 01:38 PM
I had a thought about the jig having to use rubber belts.
Couldn't you use a carrier board with sandpaper stuck on it?
Just a thought

liquidguitars
03-23-2014, 01:57 PM
it would be nice if we had the option to save as a 3d file.

This can be done in PE what you do is load you flat into PE then save it out as a STL.

This was saved from PE into my 3D software.

68437

SteveNelson46
03-23-2014, 02:11 PM
I had a thought about the jig having to use rubber belts.
Couldn't you use a carrier board with sandpaper stuck on it?
Just a thought

Even if you could, I'm not sure what the sandpaper would do to the rollers on the jig over time.

EDIT: On second thought, how would a carrier board work? The rollers on the jig roll directly on the rubber belt.

FWMiller
03-23-2014, 04:27 PM
I think sandpaper would not grip the metal rollers. That's why you need the rubber belts.

bergerud
03-23-2014, 06:22 PM
Here are some more Rotary results. Both were imported Via the STL importer. I posted screen shots since most cannot open the attached files - Yet.

henry1
03-23-2014, 07:02 PM
Here are some more Rotary results. Both were imported Via the STL importer. I posted screen shots since most cannot open the attached files - Yet.
Wow those are great Dan did you get the jig from carvewright

bergerud
03-23-2014, 07:20 PM
Wow those are great Dan did you get the jig from carvewright

Yes, I have one of Carvewright's Rotary jigs.

aokweld101
03-23-2014, 07:50 PM
WOW, those are nice Dan, now saving change in change jar for the jig and program...great job...

fwharris
03-23-2014, 08:02 PM
Dan,

Busting :D our with joy seeing these!

SteveNelson46
03-23-2014, 08:05 PM
Here are some more Rotary results. Both were imported Via the STL importer. I posted screen shots since most cannot open the attached files - Yet.

Very nice Dan. I think the bust would be an interesting carve. How long did it take?

bergerud
03-23-2014, 08:29 PM
The bust took about 2 hours.

henry1
03-23-2014, 09:04 PM
Yes, I have one of Carvewright's Rotary jigs.
Isn't it to hard on the Y gear to use rotary jig there lots of stain on it now right

eelamb
03-23-2014, 09:14 PM
Nice work Dan

fwharris
03-23-2014, 09:50 PM
Giving Brian a jump start to get the rotary jig! He sent me his call shape so I drew one up to show him what it looks like in the jig software.

bergerud
03-23-2014, 09:50 PM
Isn't it to hard on the Y gear to use rotary jig there lots of stain on it now right

I do not think there is any more strain on the Y gears with the Rotary Jig than there is with normal carving. (Maybe you were thinking about our discussion the other day about a hypothetical rotary with the axis through the machine. The Y would then have to power the rotation.)

bergerud
03-23-2014, 09:53 PM
Giving Brian a jump start to get the rotary jig! He sent me his call shape so I drew one up to show him what it looks like in the jig software.

Does that have to have a hole drilled through it?

Foggycarver
03-23-2014, 10:03 PM
Does that have to have a hole drilled through it?

Yes , I have a plan for that part of it. I'm pretty sure I figured out how to mount a expanding mandrel to hold the ID of the call. I think i can also make an adapter plate for a composite 3 jaw chuck.

Foggycarver
03-23-2014, 10:14 PM
A 5/8 hole will be drilled all the way through first. Dan, is the hole where the mounting screw is a through hole or threaded? About what size is it?

SteveNelson46
03-23-2014, 10:21 PM
With the addition of the rotary add-on there now are different ways to import an STL file. It can be done the regular way and added to your favorites in the Pattern list and it can also be imported directly into a rotary project. The pic below illustrates the differences. The top half of the cylinder has a .stl imported in as a rotary project. This creates the project for you and fills the length of the cylinder with the import creating a 3 dimensional carve. I expanded the board length and placed the same pattern from my favorites list on the bottom half. This created a "wrap around" effect on the surface of the cylinder instead of a 3D carve.

bergerud
03-23-2014, 11:11 PM
A 5/8 hole will be drilled all the way through first. Dan, is the hole where the mounting screw is a through hole or threaded? About what size is it?

The shaft has a 7mm hole bored 3/4 of the way through it and 1/4" - 20 threads at the far end for the other end of the lag screw. If you remove the lag screw, you can bolt through the shaft. You could also make a plate and screw into it from behind the drive sprocket. There will be ways.

Foggycarver
03-23-2014, 11:24 PM
The shaft has a 7mm hole bored 3/4 of the way through it and 1/4" - 20 threads at the far end for the other end of the lag screw. If you remove the lag screw, you can bolt through the shaft. You could also make a plate and screw into it from behind the drive sprocket. There will be ways.

Yes, it seems so. I made a 3/8" shaft that tapers up to 5/8 for the mandrel. One end is threaded and at the other end has a 60 degree to accept the tail stock. Turn the forcing screw at the tail stock end to expand the mandrel.

bergerud
03-24-2014, 12:26 AM
More fun. This software is really awesome.

CW-HAL9000
03-24-2014, 12:29 AM
Yes, it seems so. I made a 3/8" shaft that tapers up to 5/8 for the mandrel. One end is threaded and at the other end has a 60 degree to accept the tail stock. Turn the forcing screw at the tail stock end to expand the mandrel.

Could you post a pic of this? thanks.

Foggycarver
03-24-2014, 12:56 AM
Could you post a pic of this? thanks.


68464
The machined end of the mandrel has threads cut for the drive side. The forcing screw end (black) is the tail stock end which has also a 60 degree taper.

Capt Bruce
03-24-2014, 09:39 AM
Here are some more Rotary results. Both were imported Via the STL importer. I posted screen shots since most cannot open the attached files - Yet.

Dan, since you have shown us the initial Bust, does this mean we can look forward to a Miss CurveWright produced as a "stacked" set of 3D carvings for the new Rotary Jig? Nice work on all your new creations for this exciting tool.

bergerud
03-24-2014, 09:54 AM
Dan, since you have shown us the initial Bust, does this mean we can look forward to a Miss CurveWright produced as a "stacked" set of 3D carvings for the new Rotary Jig? Nice work on all your new creations for this exciting tool.

You know I have tried to get her on the rack! I cannot find a way to deal with her arms. They always leave a "radial shadow". I have not given up yet.

papawbummie
03-24-2014, 10:13 AM
Looking for wildlife STS files.Any good STL files of any kind that would work on Carvewright{I can't find any, looked around,no luck) Thanks Bert

blhutchens
03-24-2014, 02:50 PM
You know I have tried to get her on the rack! I cannot find a way to deal with her arms. They always leave a "radial shadow". I have not given up yet.

cut em off and carve em separate .

bergerud
03-24-2014, 03:14 PM
cut em off and carve em separate .

Ok, I might give that a try. A Frankenwright!

aokweld101
03-24-2014, 03:23 PM
Ok, I might give that a try. A Frankenwright!

Dan, when putting your Frankenwright together make sure the palms of the hands face forward...lol

James RS
03-24-2014, 03:28 PM
From the picture of the jig, it loos as those the belt rides on the rubber belt.
I'm probably wrong


I think sandpaper would not grip the metal rollers. That's why you need the rubber belts.

liquidguitars
03-24-2014, 06:34 PM
Very cool Dan...

blhutchens
03-24-2014, 06:35 PM
So does the new software not stop on rotary mpcs when you open the cover?

Is it just my machine or are there more surprises in there we should know about?

lynnfrwd
03-24-2014, 06:49 PM
So does the new software not stop on rotary mpcs when you open the cover?

Is it just my machine or are there more surprises in there we should know about?

I think it's your machine....

blhutchens
03-24-2014, 06:54 PM
The cut motor stopped but it kept going through the motions and said carving…...

bergerud
03-24-2014, 07:31 PM
Mine stops when I lift the cover. Check the left cover switch using the sensor check menu. If it checks out ok, re-flash the card.

fwharris
03-24-2014, 08:16 PM
So does the new software not stop on rotary mpcs when you open the cover?

Is it just my machine or are there more surprises in there we should know about?

Press the STOP button one time to pause your carving. This sends the signal to the computer to shut things down. Lifting the cover the cut motor will stop first (or should if the switch is working) and then the computer tries to react to the close cover switch showing open.

Foggycarver
03-24-2014, 08:22 PM
Is the jig steel or aluminum ?

bergerud
03-24-2014, 08:34 PM
Is the jig steel or aluminum ?

The plates and sprockets-pulleys are aluminum.

Foggycarver
03-24-2014, 08:37 PM
The plates and sprockets-pulleys are aluminum.

When it's carving does it act more like an indexer fixture or more like a lathe spinning slowly?

mtylerfl
03-24-2014, 08:49 PM
When it's carving does it act more like an indexer fixture or more like a lathe spinning slowly?

An indexer fixture.

eelamb
03-24-2014, 10:05 PM
another column I just made. Go here http://archive3d.net/?category=555&page=25 and pick out a capital for it.
This is less than 2" so it will work on Ed's jig

SteveNelson46
03-24-2014, 10:16 PM
another column I just made. Go here http://archive3d.net/?category=555&page=25 and pick out a capital for it.

Here is what eelamb's column looks like imported into a rotary project.

eelamb
03-24-2014, 10:31 PM
One more for the night. I have no clue what to call it.

blhutchens
03-24-2014, 10:42 PM
I turned it off for 15 min. re-flashed the card and just finished a flawless 3.2 hr carve.

ladjr
03-24-2014, 10:58 PM
6848268483684816848068479

Here is my latest project. It is a cane for my wife. We had Yellow roses at our wedding, 42 years ago.

blhutchens
03-24-2014, 11:10 PM
Thats beautiful. Great paint job. Keep that up and she might keep you around another 42 years

eelamb
03-24-2014, 11:19 PM
Leo great work.

lynnfrwd
03-24-2014, 11:22 PM
This so sweet Leo. Great job!

SteveNelson46
03-24-2014, 11:36 PM
Nice job Leo. How did you put the segments together?

ladjr
03-25-2014, 12:32 AM
Nice job Leo. How did you put the segments together?

I drilled each one and inserted a 3 inch steel bar . Covered the joints with the brass sleeves .
Thanks for comments.

SteveNelson46
03-25-2014, 12:44 AM
I drilled each one and inserted a 3 inch steel bar . Covered the joints with the brass sleeves .
Thanks for comments.

I'm currently designing a pepper mill for the rotary jig and I think I have figured out a way to pre-drill the holes before carving by using a "jam chuck" to plug the holes. Lathe turners use them all the time. So, I'm curious about how you drilled the holes straight enough for final assembly.

ladjr
03-25-2014, 12:46 AM
With the baker rotary jig there is a cap that is carve. It has a hole in it so they are all the same.

fwharris
03-25-2014, 12:47 AM
I'm currently designing a pepper mill for the rotary jig and I think I have figured out a way to pre-drill the holes before carving by using a "jam chuck". Lathe turners use them all the time. So, I'm curious about how you drilled the holes straight enough for final assembly.

Brian, aka foggycarver, has this in the works as a modification for the jig so he can do deer calls. He posted some info here already.

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?25207-New-Rotary-Jig&p=224688#post224688

SteveNelson46
03-25-2014, 01:29 AM
Brian, aka foggycarver, has this in the works as a modification for the jig so he can do deer calls. He posted some info here already.

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?25207-New-Rotary-Jig&p=224688#post224688

I can turn a jam chuck on the lathe in about 15 minutes. It's just a slightly tapered compression fit that fits snuggly in the hole on one end and sticks out far enough on the other end to mount on the lathe or rotary jig. Its made out of wood so there are no concerns about accidentally hitting a metal component with the spinning bit. A double-ended one is also needed for putting the top and the bottom together so both can be carved as one piece. I've used this technique many times on the lathe and I THINK it will work on the rotary jig. Some adjustment may be needed for the extra length of the chuck unless one of the same length is used on the opposite end. I should receive my jig in the mail tomorrow and I'll do some experimenting and post some pics as soon as I have some results. Anyway, this all sounds good but, as Robert Burns once said "The best laid schemes o' mice an' men gang aft a-gley, [often go awry]." John Steinbeck: Of Mice and Men.

Foggycarver
03-25-2014, 06:30 PM
Can someone post a picture of the drive sprocket side of the jig from the top view? I want to see if there is room for a flange say 3/8" thick behind the drive sprocket.

bergerud
03-25-2014, 07:10 PM
Just watch the jig set up video. There is really no room between the drive sprocket and plate. Besides there is a belt!