What do I need?

[cjudas]

I am looking at purchasing the CarveWright CX. I will mainly be making signs, display boards and plaques to start with.

With that being said...

What components, packages would you recommend? I know there are a lot of free patterns available on this forum, compliments of you all. Is it necessary to purchase a "bundle package"?

The CX comes with the Carve Tight Spindle, does that mean I have to buy special bits or can my router bits, 1/4" and 1/2" work in it?

Other than the software that is included, what would you recommend for add-on software?

Is there a waiting list for new machines now?

Thank you all in advance for your input and help.

Chris

[fwharris]

I am looking at purchasing the CarveWright CX. I will mainly be making signs, display boards and plaques to start with.

With that being said...

What components, packages would you recommend? I know there are a lot of free patterns available on this forum, compliments of you all. Is it necessary to purchase a "bundle package"?

The CX comes with the Carve Tight Spindle, does that mean I have to buy special bits or can my router bits, 1/4" and 1/2" work in it?

Other than the software that is included, what would you recommend for add-on software?

Is there a waiting list for new machines now?

Thank you all in advance for your input and help.

Chris

For starter add on software I usually suggest the centerline text and conforming vectors. Both of these will be very useful for your sign making. To use your 1/4" shaft bits you will need the 1/4" collet. The chuck in the machine is 1/2". You might also want to get the stop collars for the bits. Make sure to also order the flex shaft lube and dust collection attachment.

I believe the machines are being shipped out as the order come in and they get the QC checks done.

[CW-HAL9000]

for sign making you will definitely need conforming vectors and centerline software. The carvetight requires a 1/2 inch shank or a 1/4 inch to 1/2 collet adapter. The main carving and cutting bits are best if you use the ones sold by carvewright at least at first. After that if you break or need to replace you can heat the adapters off and put in new bits. The specialty bits like 60 and 90 degree bits can come from anywhere and work well in the collet adapter. While you don't need the 2.0 software if you can afford it right now getting it with the bundle is well worth it. Don't know for sure about waiting lists but judging from staff posts in the forum there is no waiting list.

[DickB]

Get or make a dust collection hood and get a dust collector if you don't have one - this is very important for reliability and maintenance. If on a budget, place that purchase above any other add-ons. I agree conforming software is nice but not required; then again it is not expense. I would order a spare carving and cutting bit, as it is not uncommon for new users to break a bit, and if you do, you're down. If you plan on making large signs, the larger-diameter carving bits are nice but again not required.

[cestout]

I agree that Centerline is a must, but I also believe that Conforming Vectors is needed - it adds a lot more possibilities. You will need 90 and 60 degree V bits and the split collet ($19) to hold them = plus soacers.
Clint

[cjudas]

Thank you for your input / advice on what I should start with. I have been playing with the software and it seems the possibilities are endless on what can be done with the machine.

It appears that most drawings and pictures that can be imported can be carved?


Since I have limited space in my shop I was thinking I could mount the CW on a portable miter saw stand. That way when I am using it I have built in rollers on the ends and when I'm done I can fold it up out of the way. Does anyone else do this or is it not advisable? I wasn't sure if leaving it "hang" sideways on the stand would damage it.

Any other input / advice is greatly appreciated. I have been reading and watching everything I can find on the machine and this forum seems like the Mecca of information.

Thanks again

Chris

[blhutchens]

I am not sure hanging it sideways will damage it, but these little suckers are heavy! so it might be easier to look at a stand you can just roll it around on.
I have mine mounted to stands I bought on sale at harbor freight. The 1hp dust collector is mounted to the stand as well, so when I need to move it the whole unit goes with it.
Most of my carving don't need roller supports so I just use the portable ones when they are needed

[DickB]

It appears that most drawings and pictures that can be imported can be carved?Most drawings will require editing to get good results. Most pictures cannot be carved with satisfying results without editing or extensive work. There have been many discussions on this; it's difficult to sum up in a few words. You should not expect to import a photo, carve it directly, and get a good result.

[cestout]

A not really steady stand sounds scary to me. Both my machines are on rolling stands larger than the machine footprint by about 8" in the infeed/outfeed directions and a couple of inches wider at each end. I have storage under each with a drawer for the bits etc.
Clint

[Old Salt]

CK and see if their is a Carve U member in your area .They are a good person to talk to about the C/W and enjoy helping out with your C/W.

[cjudas]

Thank you all for the input. I will check for someone in the area.

[swaggerstick]

I could not agree more with DickB. I had major problems from the dust until I purchased a dust hood attachment . (Available in third party accessories) I already had a 2hp dust collector. I use the 4 inch opening and it collects 98 % percent of the dust. Very little clean up. I bought the one with the 4 inch hole on top. Black in color. Works great.

[scootertrash]

I am looking at purchasing the CarveWright CX. I will mainly be making signs, display boards and plaques to start with.

With that being said...

What components, packages would you recommend? I know there are a lot of free patterns available on this forum, compliments of you all. Is it necessary to purchase a "bundle package"?

The CX comes with the Carve Tight Spindle, does that mean I have to buy special bits or can my router bits, 1/4" and 1/2" work in it?

Other than the software that is included, what would you recommend for add-on software?

Is there a waiting list for new machines now?

Thank you all in advance for your input and help.

Chris

Here's my opinion for starting out - I just bought mine in the past few months. I'm sure others will not agree but to quote The Dude, hey man, it's just, like, my opinion man.

Machine:

I suggest just getting the basic machine package for starting out. It's probably going to take you a handful of carves to get used to the software and machine. You can make amazing things with just the standard 1/8 cutter and 1/16 carving bits.

Dust collection - I see that as a luxury and not a necessity (but definitely in my future) but you definitely need *something* to use to clean the machine out. I have an inexpensive "pancake" air compressor with an "air blower" chuck for it that I use to clean out the machine. I open the machine lid every 20 minutes or so during a carve and blow the sawdust out. It sure makes a mess but it's cheaper than a big dust collection system (see notes below on DIY dust collection)

Hearing protection - this machine is loud and will certainly damage your hearing. Hearing damage is cumulative and permanent. After a life of guns, guitars and motorcycles lemme tell you - tinnitus SUCKS. I use shooting earmuffs. You can pick up a pair for about $10 just about anywhere (Walmart, Dicks, etc). You can also use the cheap little foamies. Doesn't matter what you use but you're going to want hearing protection.

As far as bits go it is highly recommended to use CW bits.

As someone else posted, go ahead and order flexshaft lube. Per the maintenance schedule you don't need it until 100 hours of use but it's very inexpensive and you may as well order it with everything else.

You posted about mounting it on a miter saw stand and something about rollers - I'm a little confused by that. The CW has infeed and outfeed trays with rollers. And they fold up ;-). I wouldn't suggest hanging the machine if for no other reason it's taller than it is wide. i think it would effectively take up more space.

Having said all that...

Since you want to make signs the centerline text will be in your future. I bought it as well as the v-bits and so far I haven't used the v-bits a single time. I certainly will at some point.

I bought the keyhole bit and software add-on. I understand it's not difficult to buy a keyhole bit and program the cuts yourself but it's a no-brainer with the software.

Lastly, if/when you go to get a true dust collection system there are several commercial "cyclone" products (like Oneida's Dust Deputy) but some savvy people have built them from scratch. One guy built the "cycone" part of his using metal rolled into a cone. Someone with vision beyond mine went to Home Depot and bought a road cone for that part(that is blanking brilliant). Personally, I'm on the fence because building one will cost at least $25 and a bunch of my time. The Dust Deputy is $50 and looks more professional. /shrug

http://www.instructables.com/id/Dust-Cyclone-made-from-a-Traffic-Cone/

[scootertrash]

I forgot to add something - you'll want a sanding mop. You can buy them anywhere (like the CW store) but you can make one yourself for very little money using drywall pads (they look like window screen covered with abrasive), a bolt, a nut, and a couple of washers. I more or less followed the below video but instead of using a band saw to cut the pads I used a pair of scissors. And the vid uses cloth sandpaper but I used drywall pads. I think it took me all of an hour to make it. Run it in a drill press or a handheld drill.

[DickB]

I do not recommend cleaning the machine only by blowing with an air compressor. The enemy in my opinion is very fine dust particles that get into bearings, optical encoders, and other parts. Blowing can move these fine particles into these places. Get or make a top-mount dust collector. It is not an option in my opinion.

[lynnfrwd]

I could not agree more with DickB. Blowing sends all of the sawdust into the electronics and moving parts of the machine.

The only thing WORSE than blowing is sucking with a shop vac.

As far as I'm concerned, a top mount system should not be an option and should not be added later. I try to sell one with EVERY machine I sell.

[DocWheeler]

I agree with Dick.
Blowing dust around in the machine WILL cause you problems.

Although I don't use my machine as often as I once did, my down-draft
cabinet and ground-wire protected vacuum hose has served me well.
I like the idea of a good above-the-belts DC system, but don't like my big
DC unit running all the time my machine is on.

Connie was faster than I was.
I see that she does not like my use of a shop-vac!

[scootertrash]

I could not agree more with DickB. Blowing sends all of the sawdust into the electronics and moving parts of the machine.

The only thing WORSE than blowing is sucking with a shop vac.

As far as I'm concerned, a top mount system should not be an option and should not be added later. I try to sell one with EVERY machine I sell.

The follow is copied and pasted from the Carvewright maintanence page:

http://www.carvewright.com/support-page/maintenance/

The CarveWright is designed to tolerate a considerable amount of carving system dust, but to ensure proper operation it should be kept free of debris as much as possible. Periodically blow or vacuum out any dust or debris from the recesses of the unit. Always make sure to use low-pressure air (<80 psi) around the electronics and sensors. High-pressure air can damage components and actually push dust into them.

So now you, as a Carvewright employee, are telling me to ignore what's on your own ding dang maintenance page. So now I'm ordering the dust collector. When I read somewhere else that I shouldn't have one I'm sending it back.

Can you understand why a customer might get frustrated at such a situation?

[lynnfrwd]

I do understand. Everybody has their own favorite way of doing things. Some swear by center on board, others jog to position. Some prefer one method of lubricating flex shaft, while others have their own.
At shows, I vacuum a machine, but I also know the part in the manual that warns against electrostatic discharge. Here, we blow them out, but when running a project, we use a dc insert. We also know how to clear dust from board sensors.

For newbies, it's just A LOT safer to say DON'T DO IT!!

[fwharris]

The follow is copied and pasted from the Carvewright maintanence page:

http://www.carvewright.com/support-page/maintenance/

The CarveWright is designed to tolerate a considerable amount of carving system dust, but to ensure proper operation it should be kept free of debris as much as possible. Periodically blow or vacuum out any dust or debris from the recesses of the unit. Always make sure to use low-pressure air (<80 psi) around the electronics and sensors. High-pressure air can damage components and actually push dust into them.

So now you, as a Carvewright employee, are telling me to ignore what's on your own ding dang maintenance page. So now I'm ordering the dust collector. When I read somewhere else that I shouldn't have one I'm sending it back.

Can you understand why a customer might get frustrated at such a situation?

The machine does tolerate a fair amount of dust IF it is cleaned out well after each carve. Vacuuming it out by making sure the machine is turned off, vacuum hose kept away from machine electronics (key board especially), grounding yourself to the machine while vacuuming and using low pressure air to blow out the crevices and crannies in the machine.

Having a top mount dust collection system attached to the machine allows the user to do multiple carves back to back without doing the deep cleaning described above.

If you do not see a noticeable difference and not 100% satisfied I will buy it back....

[Foggycarver]

The machine does tolerate a fair amount of dust IF it is cleaned out well after each carve. Vacuuming it out by making sure the machine is turned off, vacuum hose kept away from machine electronics (key board especially), grounding yourself to the machine while vacuuming and using low pressure air to blow out the crevices and crannies in the machine.

Having a top mount dust collection system attached to the machine allows the user to do multiple carves back to back without doing the deep cleaning described above.

If you do not see a noticeable difference and not 100% satisfied I will buy it back....

I have to say I've been carving a few months now, and knowing what i know in just my limited experience. I wouldn't buy a machine unless i had dust collection. I have Floyd's gizmo :) and I'd say cuts down on maintenance issues and downtime considerably.

[scootertrash]

I do understand. Everybody has their own favorite way of doing things. Some swear by center on board, others jog to position. Some prefer one method of lubricating flex shaft, while others have their own.
At shows, I vacuum a machine, but I also know the part in the manual that warns against electrostatic discharge. Here, we blow them out, but when running a project, we use a dc insert. We also know how to clear dust from board sensors.

For newbies, it's just A LOT safer to say DON'T DO IT!!

Would you PLEASE stop making sense and using things like logic? LOL

For what it's worth, I don't blow air while it's running and even then it's very low pressure. Which will be a moot point once the Ringneck Blues insert comes.

[scootertrash]

The machine does tolerate a fair amount of dust IF it is cleaned out well after each carve. Vacuuming it out by making sure the machine is turned off, vacuum hose kept away from machine electronics (key board especially), grounding yourself to the machine while vacuuming and using low pressure air to blow out the crevices and crannies in the machine.

Having a top mount dust collection system attached to the machine allows the user to do multiple carves back to back without doing the deep cleaning described above.

If you do not see a noticeable difference and not 100% satisfied I will buy it back....

Like I'm gonna send it back - I know I'll love it.

I blow the ever lovin bejesus out of the machine after every single carve. And before every carve to make sure I got all i could. Very low pressure air, 30psi. Come to think of it sometimes it'll be around 35 wwhen I check my motorcycle tires and forget to dial it back but that's well within the spec of <80 per the maintenance page.

[lynnfrwd]

Just to throw another wrench in there for you, crank it up to 80 or 90 to clear the board sensor.

[scootertrash]

Just to throw another wrench in there for you, crank it up to 80 or 90 to clear the board sensor.


I think I will because it's been a little uppity lately.

The DC Ringneck insert rocks - although I need to find a better place for my huge dust collector.