Deep cutting (not carving)?

[626Pilot]

I have a project that involves making a bunch of vector cuts with no carving. (The sides have to be perfectly straight, which the V-bit can't do.) The trouble is that I got 1 1/4" cherry (it was cheaper than 1") and I don't want to do it as a two-sided cut because of indexing issues. So far I've been planing the wood down to 1", but that's a LOT of planing. I'm afraid I've already worn my planer's blades halfway dull!

Is there a way to get the CW to do 1 1/4" cuts? I've seen the long carving bits, but they won't do. I understand I need Designer 2 for this, but is there some way (perhaps using the Rock chuck and a 3rd party cutting bit) to do this? I'm pretty new to the CW so I'm not sure what combination of things have to happen for this to work, or if it's even possible. If it has to be done in two passes it's alright - I just want to avoid the issues that come with two-sided jobs.

[bergerud]

I think there may be a way with 2.0. One can assign the 1/16" deep carving bit to a path at a depth of 1.25". It uploads to the card without error so I assume it will cut. If one tricks the machine by using a 3/16" cutting bit instead of the 1/16" bit selected, it might work. Tabs will be a problem.

[626Pilot]

I think there may be a way with 2.0. One can assign the 1/16" deep carving bit to a path at a depth of 1.25". It uploads to the card without error so I assume it will cut. If one tricks the machine by using a 3/16" cutting bit instead of the 1/16" bit selected, it might work. Tabs will be a problem.
This is a good idea, but I measured the cutting bit and it's no good for over 1" deep. More than that, and the non-cutting part of the bit would collide with the wood. Is there some way to get a longer bit? Would I get the Rock chuck for that purpose and if so what kind of cutting bit would be ideal?

[bergerud]

I would buy an ER11M adapter:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281142871145?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

and some 3/16" , two flute end mills. For example: (there are other sources besides ebay)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-16-2-FLUTE-SINGLE-END-X-LONG-LENGTH-CARBIDE-END-MILL-3-16-x3-16-x-1-1-8-3-/300780986042?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4607f19eba

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-16-DIA-1-1-8-LOC-3-OAL-2-FL-UNCOATED-X-LONG-CARBIDE-SQ-END-MILL-MADE-USA-/290859886767?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b899a8af


(http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-16-DIA-1-1-8-LOC-3-OAL-2-FL-UNCOATED-X-LONG-CARBIDE-SQ-END-MILL-MADE-USA-/290859886767?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b899a8af)These end mills have only 1 1/8" long of cutting length but I do not think that would matter much. As long as the shank is 3/16 it will go down in the slot since one would make multi-pass cuts.

Anyway, that is what I would try.

[DickB]

I would be somewhat concerned with this. I make multi-path cuts often, typically .25" at a pass to .75". The cuts typically exhibit lines at each pass depth, suggesting that the cuts are not absolutely identical. I have occasionally experienced issues of various types such as a slip in x direction, and with a bit that cannot reach full cut depth that would be a problem. I have found that heat can be a (serious) problem - even with a very accurate final cut, I wounder how much heat might be built up.

[bergerud]

I agree, it could be a problem. On the other hand, even when I get the watermark lines, the top of the bit is not cutting. Chip clearance could also be a problem in some situations. It would be safer to have a bit with 1.25" LOC. Maybe he could find one. I also saw once, a bit with a reduced shank for this purpose.

This has been something I have wanted to try. Since a bit only really uses the end for cutting in mult pass cut outs, it seems silly to have all those extra flutes making the bit breakable.

Edit: One could, with a diamond stone, grind down the extra 1/8 of the shank above the flutes. A Dremel, a diamond stone, and a drill is all it would take.

[bergerud]

Check this out.

http://www.maritool.com/Cutting-Tools-End-Mills-Reduced-Shank-End-Mills-Reduced-Shank-3-Flute/c78_79_219_221/p13478/Reduced-Shank-3/16-3-Flute-Finisher-3.5-long-X-.156-Shank-ZrN/product_info.html


http://www.maritool.com/images/Reduced-Shank-ZrN-Coated-Carbide-End-Mill-1.jpg

[SteveNelson46]

Check this out.


This is really cool. Do you think we could use it in the Rock?

[DickB]

I still suggest caution. I had burning issues with 4 flute Carvewright bits when they changed the helix angle. I have had no problem with the latest Carvewright bits at lower helix angle. These are "high helix".

[bergerud]

I still suggest caution. I had burning issues with 4 flute Carvewright bits when they changed the helix angle. I have had no problem with the latest Carvewright bits at lower helix angle. These are "high helix".

I like two flute. This one is three flute. It is really the idea that may be good here.

[bergerud]

This is really cool. Do you think we could use it in the Rock?

I do not think the Rock can hold an odd sized shank like this.

[SteveNelson46]

I do not think the Rock can hold an odd sized shank like this.

I though maybe there might be a collet to adapt it to the 1/2" Rock.

[bergerud]

The shank on this one is 5/32". The Rock does not have a 5/32" adapter. (Could use the ER11 adapter in the 1/2" Rock though.) There must be other ones with 1/8" shanks.

You know, one can get bits of any kind you want made in China. Maybe a bit with the 3/16" left at the top to hold but ground down in the middle for the clearance.

[lvwood1212]

bergerud: I have always worked with cnc mills and it's driving me crazy be cause cant change feed and speed of the end mills I know if could change them would have less chip out and other problems.
I have use hog end mils two inch dia. and drill holes so small bit where all listed by letters I think the smallist I ever used was .011.