I tried but I need help

[Sliverfoot]

I really could use some help if someone is willing.
I am trying to make a gift for the skipper of the sailboat that I crew on. I have created a pattern to carve out of wood and I think it would look nice but I would really like to add a special twist to it.
I would like to carve a "window" for the sailboat drawing and then use lexan for the that drawing. Then mount it in the plaque from the back.
I bought "Pattern Editor" this week so I could clean up the drawing. I inverted the drawing but when I tried to clean it up I just cant seem to get it right. I haven't even gotten to doing my first cutout and trying to make an inset in the back for the lexan insert.
I'd really appreciate any help on this I've been messing with it for a while not and getting anywhere.

[fwharris]

If you could post the drawing maybe someone can help you out...

[Sliverfoot]

I've never attached any mpc file to a post, don't know how.

[NLAlston]

Silver foot,

i think it is just a simple matter of going entering the 'Go advanced' area, when replying to a post. There, you will find the 'Manage Attachments' button, which will allow you to attach a file. As long as you have the concerned file saved to a known location on your computer, you should be good to go. If I am wrong about this someone else will, more than likely, offer a corrected explanation of the process.

[SteveNelson46]

I've never attached any mpc file to a post, don't know how.

Click on the "Reply" or the "Reply With Quote" button in the lower right corner
Click on "Go Advanced"
Scroll down a little and click on "Manage Attachments"
Click on "Add Files" and then click on "Browse"
Navigate to the folder where the file you want to attach is located and select it by clicking on it and then click on "Open"
Click on "Upload file"
After the file is uploaded click on "Done"
Type your text message and click on "Submit Reply"

[Sliverfoot]

Hopefully the file will be attached when I post this. Everytime I tried to attach it windows shut down and restarted.
If is is here, What I wanted to do was replace the carved region of the sail boat with a piece of lexan inserted from the back. I thought that the sailboat outline carved into the lexan would look pretty cool. But I would like to clean up the pattern somewhat to make it more "crisp".
I think then I can create a cutout in that area and then carve a recess, all from the back.

[chkorte]

I would carve the board as you have it now but eliminate the sailboat. Then separately carve the sailboat onto a piece of lexan. Then knock out the cutout on the board, cut the sailboat out of he lexan, making it a little oversize to allow for sanding to fit, and then glue it in the wood.

[SteveNelson46]

Hopefully the file will be attached when I post this. Everytime I tried to attach it windows shut down and restarted.
If is is here, What I wanted to do was replace the carved region of the sail boat with a piece of lexan inserted from the back. I thought that the sailboat outline carved into the lexan would look pretty cool. But I would like to clean up the pattern somewhat to make it more "crisp".
I think then I can create a cutout in that area and then carve a recess, all from the back.

I think this is what you had in mind. If it is I can explain how I did it.

[Sliverfoot]

Steve are you using 2.0? I can't open it. It says it was done in a newer version and I should check for updates.

[SteveNelson46]

I also posted a 1.187 version in the original reply (late edit).

[Sliverfoot]

Yea ok got it. I would like to clean up the sailboat image a little if I'm going to carve it into Lexan. I've tried 4 times to attach it in this reply but every time I try attach it Windows shuts down and I loose it. AARG!!
I guess I'll work with what I have.
When carving the recess into the back (.250 deep) would you do that before carving everything on the front?

[SteveNelson46]

I made the recess on the back .125" deep by assigning a 1/8" cutting bit to progressively smaller concentric rectangles. If you would like it to be deeper, select all of the rectangles and change the depth.

This is a two sided carve. All two sided carves will start with the carvings on the back. When everything on the back is finished the machine will prompt you to flip the board. Be sure to flip it horizontally and not end for end.

If you are having problems attaching your sail boat, send me a private message with your email address. We can exchange files using email.

[SteveNelson46]

I made the recess on the back .125" deep by assigning a 1/8" cutting bit to progressively smaller concentric rectangles. If you would like it to be deeper, select all of the rectangles and change the depth.

This is a two sided carve. All two sided carves will start with the carvings on the back. When everything on the back is finished the machine will prompt you to flip the board. Be sure to flip it horizontally and not end for end.

If you are having problems attaching your sail boat, send me a private message with your email address. We can exchange files using email.
EDIT:
I opened the attached sailboat.mpc. I looks very rough and will be difficult to clean up if it can be done at all. Do you have a .dxf drawing of it? Or perhaps a different boat?

[SteveNelson46]

EDIT:
I opened the attached sailboat.mpc. I looks very rough and will be difficult to clean up if it can be done at all. Do you have a .dxf drawing of it? Or perhaps a different boat?

Attached is an mpc and a dxf of a clipper ship that I used awhile back when I was making coasters. Maybe it will work.

[Sliverfoot]

That looks Great. I've change the back recess to a depth of .250, that's the thickness of my lexan. You have a board dimention of 20x13 but the total carve is 12x11. will my 27x11 board still work?

[Sliverfoot]

I would like to keep the sailboat image that I have. It's an actual line drawing of the boat that we sail on.
It was a JPEG.

[SteveNelson46]

That looks Great. I've change the back recess to a depth of .250, that's the thickness of my lexan. You have a board dimention of 20x13 but the total carve is 12x11. will my 27x11 board still work?

I changed the board size and added a rectangle so a V bit could be used to create a border instead of an edge route. It is only a suggestion and you certainly can change it back to your original. You may have to re- position a few things on the front and the back. I can help if needed. Also, the recess on the back will probably cut through the tabs that hold the cutout in place. You may have to reverse the sides and put the recess on the front. I can help with this also.

[bergerud]

I would like to keep the sailboat image that I have. It's an actual line drawing of the boat that we sail on.
It was a JPEG.

Upload the jpeg and we will see what we can do with it.

[Sliverfoot]

I've posted the mpc of it but I'm not sure how to upload the jpeg to the forum.

[Sliverfoot]

Found it. I hope this is something that can be worked with.

[bergerud]

That picture is very small with little detail. Can you do better than that?

[Sliverfoot]

Sorry it's all that I have. I was hoping to carve the lines into the lexan leaving the rest of the plastic clear.

[SteveNelson46]

Found it. I hope this is something that can be worked with.

I can't do anything with it either. Not even an attempt to redraw. Just not enough resolution or detail.

[eelamb]

Will someone convert this for him.

[gsdsj]

Will someone convert this for him.67348


Here is Eddie's converted dxf to mpc. Greg

[eelamb]

Thanks Greg
Now silverfoot when you carve it in plastic, I suggest doing a test carve of a vector with depth of .05 to see how it carves. This one is set to the 60 deg bit, and .125, but I believe something between .05 and .125 will be the best depth. So experiment.

[Sliverfoot]

Thank you
Thanks to all for helping me. I hope to do some carving tomorrow. We'll see how it goes.
Thanks again everyone you guys are great!

[Sliverfoot]

Well tried to do a practice carve of the sign.
I never did a 2 sided carve before so I stuck my board "3/4x19x11" to a 3/4' piece of MDF and put it in back side on top. I got a message that said that it was to thick to carve through do I want to abort or continue. I chose continue. prompted me for my 1/8 cutting bit. It carved out the recess ( I increased it to a 1/4 recess) and the said i should flip the board and switch to a carving bit. Which I did. The sign which is supposed to be 12x11 and is carving out at about 8x7. ?? and the window for my insert is now 4x4 instead of 6.5X6.5.
After doing the carving I was prompted to switch bit to a 1/8 cutting bit. so I did. When the bit went down, I don't even think it was spinning, the bit immediatly snapped off.
Now I don't know what I did wrong to change the projects size, I don't know if I did the 2 sided carve wrong, I figured out how to use pattern editor and spent about 3 hours cleaning up the sailboat image so that it was usable. All to make this as a gift for someone on Saturday. And I can't even try again because I don't have another small cutting bit. Oh and this is my 4th attempt at posting something, every time I hit "post" I'm told I'm not logged in and not authorized.
Thought I try one more time before I try to get some sleep.
Are there going to be more times like this?

[lynnfrwd]

Sorry, but to answer your last question, YES. The good news is we've all been there and done that. Also, you are in the right spot to learn what to do and not to do. First to do, learn the 7" rule. That is why your project was 7" smaller than you thought it should be.

[SteveNelson46]

Well tried to do a practice carve of the sign.
I never did a 2 sided carve before so I stuck my board "3/4x19x11" to a 3/4' piece of MDF and put it in back side on top. I got a message that said that it was to thick to carve through do I want to abort or continue. I chose continue. prompted me for my 1/8 cutting bit. It carved out the recess ( I increased it to a 1/4 recess) and the said i should flip the board and switch to a carving bit. Which I did. The sign which is supposed to be 12x11 and is carving out at about 8x7. ?? and the window for my insert is now 4x4 instead of 6.5X6.5.
After doing the carving I was prompted to switch bit to a 1/8 cutting bit. so I did. When the bit went down, I don't even think it was spinning, the bit immediatly snapped off.
Now I don't know what I did wrong to change the projects size, I don't know if I did the 2 sided carve wrong, I figured out how to use pattern editor and spent about 3 hours cleaning up the sailboat image so that it was usable. All to make this as a gift for someone on Saturday. And I can't even try again because I don't have another small cutting bit. Oh and this is my 4th attempt at posting something, every time I hit "post" I'm told I'm not logged in and not authorized.
Thought I try one more time before I try to get some sleep.
Are there going to be more times like this?

Silverfoot

Did the machine ask to "Scale to Size"? As a general rule, you should "NEVER SCALE". Your actual board needs to be at least 1" wider in width and 7" longer in length than the largest part of your carving. Then you can answer "no" to "Stay Under Rollers" and "Yes" to "Center on Board". This is the 7" rule Connie mentioned in her previous post. You can also construct a sled to hold a smaller actual board but, the sled size has to meet the 7"rule. If you are using the same dimensions as your original post of the Three Winds Plaque, the actual size of your board should be at least 19" in length by 12" in width.

[Sliverfoot]

Ok so I got some sleep and I've calmed down. I was pretty frustrated last night.
I'd like to try it again tonight and I just thought I'd ask a few more questions so that hopefully things work out better.

My board that I was going to use for the carve is only 11" wide so can I tape extra material to the edges to make it 12"?

Was I correct to tape it down to a piece of 3/4" MDF when I cut from the back and then again when I flipped it over? I know 3/4 is plenty thick but I have a bunch of scrap.
When the machine prompted me that it was too thick to cut through, do I want to abort or continue and I said continue, is that normal? Or should I change something?
Any idea why the cutting bit broke when it was about to start on the front? And because I don't have another 1/8 cutting bit right now what about using a 3/16 cutter?
Lots of questions but I'm trying to learn. There's a lot of information in the manuals but it can seem kind of overwhelming when trying to sift through it.




Silverfoot

Did the machine ask to "Scale to Size"? As a general rule, you should "NEVER SCALE". Your actual board needs to be at least 1" wider in width and 7" longer in length than the largest part of your carving. Then you can answer "no" to "Stay Under Rollers" and "Yes" to "Center on Board". This is the 7" rule Connie mentioned in her previous post. You can also construct a sled to hold a smaller actual board but, the sled size has to meet the 7"rule. If you are using the same dimensions as your original post of the Three Winds Plaque, the actual size of your board should be at least 19" in length by 12" in width.

[SteveNelson46]

Ok so I got some sleep and I've calmed down. I was pretty frustrated last night.
I'd like to try it again tonight and I just thought I'd ask a few more questions so that hopefully things work out better.

My board that I was going to use for the carve is only 11" wide so can I tape extra material to the edges to make it 12"?

Was I correct to tape it down to a piece of 3/4" MDF when I cut from the back and then again when I flipped it over? I know 3/4 is plenty thick but I have a bunch of scrap.
When the machine prompted me that it was too thick to cut through, do I want to abort or continue and I said continue, is that normal? Or should I change something?
Any idea why the cutting bit broke when it was about to start on the front? And because I don't have another 1/8 cutting bit right now what about using a 3/16 cutter?
Lots of questions but I'm trying to learn. There's a lot of information in the manuals but it can seem kind of overwhelming when trying to sift through it.

Silverfoot

An easier way might be to let the Carvewright cut the sled for you (see attachment). Use 3/4" MDF and mount it to a 1/2" thick MDF board from the back using countersunk screws. Trim off the excess on the table saw to make all edges smooth and square .You can use double sided tape to hold your work piece in place or you can mount it from the back with screws also. Just make sure it is not loose and the screws are located in an area that is not part of the carving. Put masking tape over the cracks.

After your sled is constructed, put it in the Carvewright. At the prompts select:
Stay under rollers? = NO
Center on board
Cut board to size? = NO

If it asks you to scale, the sled is too small.
If it asks you for the thickness enter .75

It will carve the back first
At the prompt, flip the board. Remove it from the Carvewright, unscrew the workpiece from the sled and flip it over from side to side, NOT END FOR END, then remount it to the sled. When you put the sled back in the Carvewright make sure it is oriented the same way as before.

Carve the plexiglass sailboat as a separate project and size it to fit the frame. Using the 7" rule, cut the plexiglass and mount it to a piece of 1/2" MDF. Use the table saw to trim off the excess and to make the edges square. You may have to put some masking tape around the edges of the plexiglass so the Carvewright can "see the edge" when measuring.

Most of the carving will be done with the 1/16" carving bit. The 3/16" cutting bit for the cutouts should work okay but, you may have to adjust the bit paths for the recess on the back.

[lynnfrwd]

Remember NOT to use Plexiglass™. It is not heat resistant and will turn gummy. Use a more heat tolerant acrylic.

[SteveNelson46]

Remember NOT to use Plexiglass™. It is not heat resistant and will turn gummy. Use a more heat tolerant acrylic.

Yeah, I forgot about that. It's probably better to use clear acrylic anyway as it is harder and won't turn yellow with age.

[Sliverfoot]

No the carve that I did of the sailboat, which will be inserted into the sign, was out of lexan and went fine. had to experiment with the right depth but I'm pleased with the end result.
My questions were about carving the wooded part of the project.

[SteveNelson46]

No the carve that I did of the sailboat, which will be inserted into the sign, was out of lexan and went fine. had to experiment with the right depth but I'm pleased with the end result.
My questions were about carving the wooded part of the project.

Use the steps I outlined below and it should turn out fine.

[Sliverfoot]

Thanks Steve
I'll stop on the way home and pick up some 1/2 MDF and give it a try tonight.

[Sliverfoot]

Well I followed Steves advise last night and it worked great. I thought though that I could get some of the text to carve a little better so I changed the draft and depth and started carving another one out tonight. It looks awesome BUT after the front side carving was done it asked me to change to my cutting bit and when I did I got a "2 axis Stall error". I hit stop. And now I'm back to the main menu.
Any Iideas what this could be and can I save this carve? I haven't moved the board.

[SteveNelson46]

A Z axis stall can be caused by many things including something that stopped the vertical movement of the Z truck unexpectedly. Use some cheap wood or MDF and try it again from the beginning and see if you get the same error message it at the same place?. If the entire project carved the first time, what did you do differently the second time? Also, make sure you are inserting the bits all the way in to the pressed on sleeve and tighten securely.

[lynnfrwd]

Delete the carve leaving the cut path only and upload project with new name. Watch to make sure it lines up. Be prepared to stop if not.

[Sliverfoot]

The cutout has a recess already carved from the back. If I delete the carving leaving only the cut path won't it try to recarve the back? I need it to do the front side cutting.

Did I explain that right?

[aokweld101]

delete the backside and delete what was on the front that has already carved if it done all he way except for the cut path, just do the cut path, put masking tape across the center for your reading for the y movement. And as Connie said rename the project.

[SteveNelson46]

If you are still trying to recover the original carving, follow the recommendations of others here and delete everything on the front and back except the outside perimeter cutout on the front and save it as a different name. Also, be sure you limit the "Max Depth" of the cutout to no more than .25". Upload it to the card and run it. If the X and Y tracking on your machine is accurate, it should cut out the outside perimeter. Be sure to watch it closely as if the tracking is off, even just a small amount, the machine will cut into the carving. Of course, this is assuming there is nothing wrong with your machine that gave you the Z axis stall in the first place. Another alternative is to finish the cut out on the table or band saw.

[Sliverfoot]

Think I'm going to play it safe.
I'll remove the board from the machine and using some 1/4 or 1/2" make a pattern of the front of the cutout (assuming there is nothing wrong with the machine),
and then use a pattern bit in my router. I'm reluctant to delete the carving on the project. I'd kind of like to save it for a while.
Really hoping the z stall error was a fluke

[aokweld101]

if you use a different name for your cut out, the original pattern will be saved.

[Sliverfoot]

So I can delete all the carving front and rear. Do a "save as" with a different name, and my original file will not be changed?

[aokweld101]

When you change the name and do a (save as) it saves the cut out under that name and the original pattern will be saved. If it comes back up on the screen push the save button

[mtylerfl]

So I can delete all the carving front and rear. Do a "save as" with a different name, and my original file will not be changed?

Yes, of course. Saving under a new name creates a new file...leaving the original as-is!

[Sliverfoot]

Cool. I thought that changed the original file.