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Digitalwoodshop
01-29-2014, 06:42 PM
Over in the Sawmill Creek forum is a old thread from our buddy Mr. Richards with tons of pictures.... A new post asking basically.... "What do you think today"....

Here is my Readers Digest reply.... A PRO LHR post in my opinion that lays out some of the questions and some of the answers to assist in making that decision.

:cool:

Wrtten by me on Sawmill Creek:


I won't comment on Mr. Richards as it is not my place. The answers to that question can be found on the CW Forum. I hold Mr. Richards in very high reguard in his many skills and abilities. I am also Retired Military.

I have had the CW machine since 2007 and just today ran one of my machines in my 10 degree Wood Shop cutting 2 sheets of plastic tags for the fire side of my business. It is better to run the machine in a warmer envioriment but I am careful and know the limitations and have been lucky.

So back to your questions... The Carvewright machine is divided into two areas of discussion.... Software and Hardware. The Designer Software, a Hobby Grade Program that has been in Continious Improvement Mode from the start. Free updates have been the Norm for a very long time for the basic Designer with some of the more complicated functions released as a "Pay" Option. This gets a lot of press time in the forums. For me I have a few of the "Add On's" and since I use it for my Business it has been a easy decision to buy them. Others I would like but have not seen the need yet.

"THEN"... Things changed in the Designer Software where a Complete Rewrite happened to aid in future Designer Developments. This was the 2.xx Series with the old Designer being the 1.xx versions. The 2.xx versions started out as a "PAY" option leaving the 1.xx being still free but with no future updates. This has been a very active topic and one that has tainted a few long time users. I am still using 1.184 a pretty old version as for me, "It Works" and does very nice work for me. I use the CW in my business and really depend on it.... So I have always been very slow in loading the latest update.... Updates that I have not loaded in the 1.xx series give me the ability to do things like test the machine and motors from the keypad. But Comma.... I use a ROCK Chuck that was the first after market chuck and have been very happy with it. Later versions have made some changes that tighten up the length of the bit loaded into the machine that is slowely being Customized to the LHR Carvetite Bit length. The CT Bits have a Sleeve and Flange and LHR controls the length and closed the window of bit length and if I install a bit in my ROCK Chuck at slightly TOO LONG bad things happen.... The work around is simple... Just find the correct bit length for a bit with my ROCK by trial and error and use a locking ring. Done... Works every time... with 1.184 my current version.... IF I upgrade... I am not sure.... I have seen postings where ROCK users were frustrated... So for me... It works... Don't fix it... The Down Side.... Many projects have been posted on the Forum in a 1.xx version higher than I am running that I would like to open but at 1.184 I cannot.... So I can't offer advice on a problem... I like to offer fix it advice.. And any project in 2.xx I can not look at either... And if someone opens a 1.184 project in 2.xx, it WILL open but it will save in 2.xx and I am locked out... So this thread here and many on the CW Forum post the frustration over the question of a Hobby Machine with Pay Software and limitations.... I have choose to stay out of the mix and just be happy with what I can do....

Next is the Machine.... You will need to spend time and actually read many of the Troubleshooting Posts on the CW Forum.... The Machine HAS gotten more reliable over time and the proof is in the forum.... The machine DOES have a few weak areas like the Bearings in the Y Gearbox but if you follow simple recommendations like changing the 2 little 685ZZ Bearings at the same time as you change the Cut Motor Brushes at 250 Cut Hours you will be FINE.... The Maintenance list is small but the trick is to actually do Preventive Maintenance every 250 Cut Hours and you will have many troublefree hours of carving.... AND have a Properly Grounded Dust Collection System to remove the Sawdust that causes binding.

Honestly... I still support the machine 100% and the Company. As far as used machines.... I always recomend a used machine as a 2nd machine after you learn the limitations and maintenance required. The Warranty of a new machine helps...

I post over on the CW Forum as Digitalwoodshop and I give repair advice from time to time... The machine has many common faults and likely any problem you have it has been posted and answered and FIXED on the Forum. The Tips and Tricks written by many users is things you need to know to run the machine like the 7 inch rule of wood. A funny term because it is about 7 inches between the two rubber rollers that hold the board FLAT to the Sand Paper OR Rubber Belts. IF a board is held by only one roller the board can tip up and cause problems. You will need to understand the question the LCD asks and what each response will do like Scalling the artwork down real small..... A Common first post next to I cranked the head up and now it only clicks and won't go down.... The answer for the Clicking is actually in the Operators Manual.... Many toss it aside.... and never open it....

MANY options.... The CW is just ONE..... It could be a Stepping Stone to a bigger machine.... One year I made about $20K using the machine in my business.... Last year... $3.5K... So it depends on everything including the Economy.... The Month of January is almost over and I have already past last year's total.... so things are looking up and Firemen got "Grant Money to Spend".... http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/smilies/smile.gif

Too bad Designer didn't do it like Corel Draw where I am still happy using VERY OLD CD 12 and many users of the latest can save a
project in Corel 10, 11, or 12 and I can use it..... Done Right.... Corel Draw...

AL

fwharris
01-29-2014, 07:01 PM
Great post Al and no white washing, just the facts...

Mikewiz
01-29-2014, 07:03 PM
Well spoken!

Digitalwoodshop
01-29-2014, 07:13 PM
The CNC "Big Boys" over on Sawmill Creek have been known to raise the "BS" Flag from time to time.... Keeping guys like me "Honest"....

It gives you a starting point for the very complicated decision as to what machine to buy... Many options... The 2.xx has added a new twist to all the questions but if I were starting out today.... 2.xx would be the way to go....

The changing Warranty options and Parts Avaliability like the Y Replacement Gear no longer a cheap fix add layers of decision factors...

Going into the purchase with your eyes open and understanding the limitations of a hobby machine make for a happier user... I knew I could not cut a 24 inch wide kitchen Cabinet door.... but I "DID" Know I could make a pretty COOL 3D INSERET for the door.... :)

Knowledge is POWER.

AL

Bigtyme
01-29-2014, 07:25 PM
Good Stuff, Al. I think you hit it well...

Digitalwoodshop
02-04-2014, 02:43 PM
Looks like Robert will be going to the TAMPA Show in March...


Al,

Your insight has been greatly appreciated! Have you used your CW on acrylics? What were your results? If I don't purchase a CW now, I'll be attending a woodworkers expo here in Tampa this coming March. Carvewright has it on the schedule to attend. That way I can see a demo of the machine.

Robert

lawrence
02-04-2014, 09:30 PM
Al- I just saw your message and also the one on the 'creek. Thanks for stepping in with your full and thoughtful response as I haven't been checking the forums much lately (had a blast in Key West the last couple of weeks and we are now headed up the east coast of FL)

Hope everyone is doing well, and continue to wish you all happy carvings,

V/r
Lawrence

ps- who's this "Mr. Richards" character? I consider you all my friends - please feel free to call me Lawrence (some of you may also free to insert an adjective before the Lawrence if you'd like!) :)

Capt Bruce
02-05-2014, 08:45 AM
A round of applause for Al as a worthy spokesman, and good to see you on the Forum Lawrence. Hope your whole Family is enjoying the Richards' USA Tour 2013-2014.

CNC Carver
02-05-2014, 12:17 PM
Lawrence hope your trip is going great. Glad you are still checking in here and there. We miss you help and support here.

Digitalwoodshop
02-07-2014, 12:36 PM
Fantastic !!!!! I took a month off then started making Picture Tubes at Sony... in 95... ROAD TRIP.... Sounds Fantastic....

Brother is working for FLA Fish and Game near West Palm Beach. They have crews of RV guys that work for free a few hours a week for RV Rental Space at the locations. Winter in Fla and Summer on the Hudson River of NY... Wallkill...

Good to hear from you,

AL

jab73180
02-07-2014, 02:04 PM
Thanks Al, I have been wondering about the 2.0 bit problems with the rock chuck. Thanks for clarifying it.

Digitalwoodshop
02-08-2014, 11:46 AM
Thanks Al, I have been wondering about the 2.0 bit problems with the rock chuck. Thanks for clarifying it.


As usual my thoughts on the Rock and 2.0 are subject to change as I know others are further ahead with "Actual" knowledge of the use of 2.0 and the Rock.

Some of my advice is "Dated"...

:) AL

liquidguitars
02-08-2014, 12:31 PM
I have the Rock and the Firmware has disabled them completely Don't upgrade to 2.0 stick with 1.187.

jab73180
02-08-2014, 01:15 PM
I have read the other thread "is 2.0 worth it" or whatever. The problem is just the CT bits in the rock right?

liquidguitars
02-08-2014, 01:31 PM
Well they also changed the fact you can't pre load bits.

bergerud
02-08-2014, 01:50 PM
I have read the other thread "is 2.0 worth it" or whatever. The problem is just the CT bits in the rock right?

I believe that is right. We have heard some stories of CT and QC problems. These are problems, however, specific only to 2.004. These problems should fixed in 2.005. (They are not a reason to not buy 2.0.)

jab73180
02-08-2014, 02:08 PM
Well they also changed the fact you can't pre load bits.

What do you mean pre load bits?

Digitalwoodshop
02-08-2014, 02:34 PM
I think pre load bits was where if a project had 3 bits you left the last bit to be checked or the first one that was going to carve and let it measure it in place of the 1st two to save time. Then when it actually needs the other bits you load them and the machine finds the length different and you just say "It's ok... use the new length" and off it went....

This is the first bit checks before carving where the last bit checked actually starts carving. So I believe if you lie to the machine and the machine does not find the requested bit to be the exact CT bit Length the machine goes "Tilt"....

"Tilt" for the younger guys comes from the old Mechanical Pin Ball Machines where a "Shake" Senor in the unit detected you bumping the machine with your hips to influence the 1 inch metal ball to take a desired path. When the machine detected a Shake it would slam a hammer inside the machine frame making a slapping sound and the "Tilt" light would come on and the machine would go dead and your ball would follow gravity and exit the machine play area... Ending that play... "Tilt".... #$&@!@#%^&

AL

Capt Bruce
02-08-2014, 08:59 PM
and the machine goes "Tilt"....

"Tilt" for the younger guys comes from the old Mechanical Pin Ball Machines where a "Shake" Sensor in the unit detected you bumping the machine with your hips to influence the 1 inch metal ball to take a desired path. When the machine detected a Shake it would slam a hammer inside the machine frame making a slapping sound and the "Tilt" light would come on and the machine would go dead and your ball would follow gravity and exit the machine play area... Ending that play... "Tilt".... #$&@!@#%^&

AL

Thanks for that quick trip down memory lane Al . . . It has been almost 48 years since I played a pinball machine. What a flood of visual imagery and sounds. I appreciate you activating that gray matter again just like feeding in another quarter.

jab73180
02-08-2014, 09:00 PM
Why are posts getting deleted?

Capt Bruce
02-08-2014, 09:05 PM
Individuals on the Forum always have the choice to delete posts they have made using the Edit Post function.

opensores
04-18-2014, 06:44 PM
Greetings to everyone who ends up reading this post. I found a used CW online, and bought it yesterday. I am very excited to learn how to use it, and do believe that there are currently no presidents in the forums (here) about building skateboards, and skateboard molds with the Carvewright. That is primarily what I will be using the machine for, and will certainly discover the limits of its capability soon. I will be starting a new thread, as soon as my membership is approved, and will elaborate, but for now, I wish to begin rubbing virtual elbows with those who have come before me. Thank you for laying the ground work.

There are no threads about the 3/8" straight cut bit. Most of my mold building will not require much finite detail at all. (only gentle curves) I see many people complaining about breaking bits. Will the 3/8 be my champion?

Many of my projects will be 4ft long, and will require lots of cutting. Most molds will be cut from MDF.

Thanks again for reading my post, any info will be devoured.

papawbummie
04-22-2014, 08:19 PM
If I buy another machine, will my add ons on my 0ld machine work with new machine (like conforming vectors.centerline text etc.) Thanks Bert

fwharris
04-22-2014, 08:37 PM
If I buy another machine, will my add ons on my 0ld machine work with new machine (like conforming vectors.centerline text etc.) Thanks Bert

Your good to go, software is independent of the machine..

papawbummie
04-22-2014, 08:51 PM
Thanks Bert

fwharris
04-22-2014, 09:36 PM
Greetings to everyone who ends up reading this post. I found a used CW online, and bought it yesterday. I am very excited to learn how to use it, and do believe that there are currently no presidents in the forums (here) about building skateboards, and skateboard molds with the Carvewright. That is primarily what I will be using the machine for, and will certainly discover the limits of its capability soon. I will be starting a new thread, as soon as my membership is approved, and will elaborate, but for now, I wish to begin rubbing virtual elbows with those who have come before me. Thank you for laying the ground work.

There are no threads about the 3/8" straight cut bit. Most of my mold building will not require much finite detail at all. (only gentle curves) I see many people complaining about breaking bits. Will the 3/8 be my champion?

Many of my projects will be 4ft long, and will require lots of cutting. Most molds will be cut from MDF.

Thanks again for reading my post, any info will be devoured.

Greetings and welcome! The 3/8" bit if it is the one with the 1/2" shaft will not break like the 1/8" cutting bit and is a good one for doing pocket cuts like you will be doing for your skate board molds. You should not be overly aggressive with your cuts though and doing the cuts with a max pass setting would be recommended.

opensores
04-22-2014, 09:40 PM
Will that translate to a .125" pass depth?

fwharris
04-22-2014, 10:14 PM
Will that translate to a .125" pass depth?

What is your total depth that you will be carving? I usually start out with a depth of .200 depending on the material I am carving.

opensores
04-22-2014, 10:43 PM
1 and 2 inches will he regular.

cestout
04-23-2014, 06:12 PM
I recommend that you invest in the 3D modeling package so you can extrude the curves you will need and maybe add nubs on the back to attach hardware and stuff like that.
Clint

opensores
04-28-2014, 07:22 PM
Thank you. So, in the first step is to pay to upgrade to the new software 2.0 is this correct?

http://store.carvewright.com/home.php?cat=399

cestout: After I do this I will invest in the 3d software as well, so I can do exactly that.