PDA

View Full Version : Question about a sled



jab73180
01-09-2014, 07:47 PM
Can I build a sled that has a 1" - 1½" depth and carve ¾" stock? I don't want to build 3 or 4 sleds for different depths, but if I have to I will.

unitedcases
01-09-2014, 07:58 PM
Would seem as long as the carving bit can make it down to the stock to carve then I wouldn't think it would be an issue. Let us know if it works. I know for the plans for the scanning sled they say to keep the rails high and some objects are obviously lower than the sides. I would just do it.

bergerud
01-09-2014, 08:11 PM
The sled cannot really be higher than the board you are carving. The machine expects the board surface to be just under the rollers. Check out Lawrence's sled:

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?21574-my-improved-sled&p=186835#post186835

unitedcases
01-09-2014, 08:20 PM
That stinks. I thought he was onto something.

fwharris
01-09-2014, 08:35 PM
The carving surface can be some what lower that the sled height, but you would have to job to the carving surface for the "finding surface" step during the start up.

One option for your one sled is adding a bottom layer to bring your board surface up the the rail height.

jab73180
01-09-2014, 08:39 PM
Great idea Floyd.

liquidguitars
01-09-2014, 09:38 PM
What I do at times is to fir out the sled bottom with removable dead wood, so if I have a 1.5 deep pocked and I run .75" I slap a shim piece to fill the void.

eelamb
01-09-2014, 09:49 PM
Take a look at this thread, it may give you some ideas on building a sled. I use one like this one.
http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?21574-my-improved-sled/page4&highlight=sled

Smoken D
01-10-2014, 09:08 AM
Here is what I do for different sizes of wood. One sled, use T track and install different thickness MDF for the end pieces as needed. Just make those end pieces 4" and with your bolt's installed in those pieces you can slide to length of your project. That first sled on top I had glued one end, my bad and learned if I had not glued I could take it off for the different thickness.;)

mtylerfl
01-10-2014, 09:15 AM
Now, that's a nice sled! Good job!

A suggestion...recess the T-track into the dado slots so they cannot be reached by the cutting bit when performing cutouts. The cutting bit protrudes beyond the thickness of the board by a few thousandths to do a clean cut-through. Recessing the T-track by at least 0.125" should be plenty to avoid the bit contacting the metal.

Capt Bruce
01-10-2014, 11:06 AM
You beat me to it Michael,
Plus 1 on your comment to recess the T Tracks to keep both them and your bit safe.

jab73180
01-10-2014, 11:10 AM
Now, that's a nice sled! Good job!

A suggestion...recess the T-track into the dado slots so they cannot be reached by the cutting bit when performing cutouts. The cutting bit protrudes beyond the thickness of the board by a few thousandths to do a clean cut-through. Recessing the T-track by at least 0.125" should be plenty to avoid the bit contacting the metal.



What does your sled look like Michael? Or is it top secret!

mtylerfl
01-10-2014, 01:04 PM
What does your sled look like Michael? Or is it top secret!


I did post some pics awhile back on another thread, which I'm sure are still here (somewhere). Nothing fancy - "Make-As-Needed". Hold on...I'll go take some more pics...

Ha! I just went out to the shop to take a couple photos to post and I don't have (or can't find) any assembled sled (except my Scanning Sled). My sleds are simply cobbled together from scrap boards (or MDF) and cutoffs from non-sled projects. Had a scrap piece of 1/2" "sled" panel that I've used for cutting out 1/4" and 1/2"-thick stock (Christmas ornaments), but I guess I threw that out or it's in one of my scrap piles. Oh, I did make a "sled" with just rails nailed on the sides and masking tape across the ends after Ken (Doc Wheeler) did the sled Tips write-up for me, too.

liquidguitars
01-10-2014, 02:45 PM
Here is how I roll: http://www.carvewright.com/the-flute-build/

t147
01-10-2014, 04:46 PM
You fly high and wide. You go where few of us will. Nice!!!

Smoken D
01-10-2014, 06:36 PM
Now, that's a nice sled! Good job!

A suggestion...recess the T-track into the dado slots so they cannot be reached by the cutting bit when performing cutouts. The cutting bit protrudes beyond the thickness of the board by a few thousandths to do a clean cut-through. Recessing the T-track by at least 0.125" should be plenty to avoid the bit contacting the metal.

Yep, will be the next thing to fix, great idea :D

Firefighter938
01-23-2014, 07:00 AM
Thinking of trying to build a sled that looks like lawrence's adjustable sled. What if you used 1x4-36" for the sides and then 1x6-14" across the top on both sided and 3 1x6-14" accros the bottom? Spread out 1 on each end and 1 in the middle. I was going to run the 1x4-36" through CW to cut out slides for movable floor and to cut out spots for 1x6 so they are flush with 1x4. I attached a picture of what I project the 1x4 side to look like. I would then build the movable table for wood to be taped on for carving. ANYONE HAVE ANY THOUGHTS? This is my first time attempt so chime in and let me know what you think!

jab73180
01-23-2014, 07:07 AM
Thinking of trying to build a sled that looks like lawrence's adjustable sled. What if you used 1x4-36" for the sides and then 1x6-14" across the top on both sided and 3 1x6-14" accros the bottom? Spread out 1 on each end and 1 in the middle. I was going to run the 1x4-36" through CW to cut out slides for movable floor and to cut out spots for 1x6 so they are flush with 1x4. I attached a picture of what I project the 1x4 side to look like. I would then build the movable table for wood to be taped on for carving. ANYONE HAVE ANY THOUGHTS? This is my first time attempt so chime in and let me know what you think!


Pretty nice design. I think the bottom should be completely closed in for max traction. I don't think the top needs 6" boards, 2" would be enough, maybe even less. But I could be wrong.

Firefighter938
01-23-2014, 07:25 AM
Pretty nice design. I think the bottom should be completely closed in for max traction. I don't think the top needs 6" boards, 2" would be enough, maybe even less. But I could be wrong.

Good idea! Maybe cover the bottom with a 1/4 piece of lauan. This would give it maximum contact with the rollers. I will take a few pictures and post when I am done building.

Firefighter938
01-23-2014, 01:41 PM
671166711767118671196712067121
Here are a few pictures of the sled I built today. I have not run any projects on the sled yet. It does go through the machine for measuring pour poses just fine. I am going to run some stuff tomorrow. I still need to mark center lines on the board. Also my still add 1/4 luaun to the bottom to make it a solid surface. Seams to run through just fine like this, so I might leave it like this for a little while.

mtylerfl
01-23-2014, 01:54 PM
Nice design! Looks like it will be very useful for most types of projects.

Firefighter938
01-23-2014, 01:59 PM
Nice design! Looks like it will be very useful for most types of projects.
Thanks, I have an in on some reclaimed lumber. Very nice pieces, just not nice crisp edges. I tried to run them and they would not track right. Im hopeing to be able to use this for some if that. I also want to try some of those cool ornaments for Easter maybe, since I missed Christmas!

Firefighter938
01-25-2014, 01:20 PM
Finished up sled today, ran it through CW and put some centering lines on the baseplate.