cut motor does not spin

[peep]

Oddly enough, I get no error. It goes through all its routines, and then starts to carve by dragging the bit across the board. But it does not spin!

Reseated the cables, then changed the cut motor with my spare and same. Duh!

Now what?

[bergerud]

Main culprit is the right cover switch. DC keeping the cover up?

[dltccf]

Agreed, right cover switch. Quick test, push down on the cover on the side away from you and see if it starts.

dave

[atldal]

I had the same issue and it was the switch, only mine had actually burned up.

[zan29]

Having the same issue but it's the flexshaft coming out of the plastic sleeve by the cut motor.

[ekimnamyr]

My machine did this on last carve, All I did was wiggle the flex shaft cable and it took off. Thinking it was brushes not making good contact on commentator in motor, is due for a change out, waiting on brushes to arrive now from LHR.

[peep]

OK had to stop, go to bed ad rethink this today.
-When the 2 jacks are plugged into the cover, it goes through its routine and then starts to carve, but the bit does not rotate.
-When the 2 jacks are shorted, the bit rotates fine, but does so as soon as the power is applied. As soon as you turn on the switch.

What gives? This makes no scene!

[peep]

Ran all the tests. They all passed, but when I ran the cut motor it said it was on, but it was not. I know it works, because when I short the cover switch the cut motor turns on as soon as the power is on.

[unitedcases]

Sounds like the cover switch is bad?

[peep]

But why does it always run if I short out the switch? Could I have the cut motor wired wrong? I put the 2 black wires together, then the 2 white wires I connected to the leads black and white wire. Is that OK?

[CNC Carver]

Sounds like you have shorted cut motor to the main power rather than switched power. Your cut motor is fine but your wiring isn't. You should just jumper the wires on switch for testing. I beleave your switch is bad or not closing when the lid is closed.

[bergerud]

The cut motor is controlled by a semi-conductor switch called a triac on the x termination board under the machine. The right cover switch is only a safety switch to break the circuit if the cover is open.

What you discribe seems very strange as it would mean that there are two separate problems. The cover switch is not working and the triac stays on. I would guess that a component on the x termination board is bad (the big capacitor). This would cause the triac to stay on. With the triac always on, there would be some arcing at the switch when it opens and closes and that did the switch in.

[peep]

Ok, borrowed a cover and tryed it.

cut mother came on as soon as the power was turned on. Then after a very short time the cut mother went out. Reason, I think I just blew another switch. Checked both switches with a meter, and yes, both cover switches are blown ;(

so what ever is causing the cut mother to come on, is powerful enough to blow cover switches! Grrrrrr

[peep]

The only thing I did recently was change the ribbon cable when I got a new one in. Can't remember if I used it since. Could the ribbon cable do anything? It pasts all the tests. Just will not turn on the cut motor unless the cover sw is shorted

[unitedcases]

But why does it always run if I short out the switch? Could I have the cut motor wired wrong? I put the 2 black wires together, then the 2 white wires I connected to the leads black and white wire. Is that OK?

Your bypassing the switch, correct?

[Digitalwoodshop]

This is actually a X Termination Board Problem... I had this many years ago and posted about it. With the power on and the cover closed you could thump your hand on top of machine and make the cut motor start up and another thump shut off.... It is all about the C1 Capicator on the X Terination board. It has broken one wire and is touching and NOT touching causing the problem...

A common replacement is a MLR104K400 a Cap-Mylar .1 MF 400 Volt.

I had 3 of my 4 machines snap this cap in the early years due to the QC Vibration.

And to review the Cut Motor Wires....

From the X Termination Board a BLACK or HOT wire comes from the Q1 Triac or Semi conductor switch controlled by the Opto Couplers or a little LED light inside a 6 pin package with a photo transistor that when the LED comes on it turns on the Transistor. This isolates the Computer from the House Voltage side of the Circuit for protection.

SO the Black Wire is the Hot Wire and goes up to the BLACK Wire of the Cut Motor through the little push plugs.

So the Cut Motor has a White or Return Wire and that goes to the right cover switch. Since the switch just opens or shorts or on and off. Pick ANY wire.... Black or White... Then the other wire from the X Termination Board is White or the return and the Right Cover Switch is between it and the Cut Motor acting as a Safety Switch... So pick the other wire.....

Good Luck,

AL

[peep]

Thanks Al Who, your always a big help, remind me to give you my first born ;)

Well I think just about everything on this board is messed up. Installed a spare X Termination Board and the issue goes away. But not fixed. I know I need to buy new switch covers, but when I run a project (switch cover shorted), it now goes all the way, but in the final phase, before it starts the cut motor (measuring the board thickness) it passes the inside, and I get a E06-D324 error when it measures the outside board thickness. Note the cut motor test passes now.
Help again!
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn111/Peep_2008/IMG_0295_zps60f551a4.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/Peep_2008/media/IMG_0295_zps60f551a4.jpg.html)

[bergerud]

Now look for a drilled hole beside the brass roller. Another side effect of the motor not turning off will be that it drills a hole when touching on the left side of the board. The bit now goes down too deep and you get the stall at the sliding plate on the other side. Fill the hole with something. Some have used epoxy.

[peep]

I'm on it. Boy this machine is labour intensive.

[Digitalwoodshop]

The Electronic Guy in me.... Glue on the C1 is OK... but Glue on the Resistors... Not a good thing.... Keeps them from dissipating the heat... AND the burnt Plastic glue.. Turns conductive changing the value.... OR causing the resistor to fail....

+1 on the drilled hole...

AL

[peep]

Well I have drill holes on both the far and near side. Epoxy is drying. Will check tomorrow.

[unitedcases]

I epoxied a dime at that spot and has worked very well. No fear of it drilling thru again.

[peep]

I was not sure if the distance mattered. filled the holes up with epoxy and it carved fine for one time. the one of the power leads to the cut motor needed to be redone. Oh the maintenance.