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Bill
02-15-2007, 12:13 PM
Hello pkunk,

I have a question this is going to be a new style hanging lamp in a octagon
shape it is made from 1/2" Poplar. I need to make a top, the question is the
opening is 12" I can not find Poplar 12" + wide x1/2".

Now if I can not find anything what is the best way to put 3 or 4 pieces together
do you just glue them with a butt joint or bevel the pieces or drill and dowel?
This top will be supporting the weight.
what is the best way.
Thanks
Bill.

eepers
02-15-2007, 01:38 PM
Just joining the edges up against each other, glueing them, and clamping them will create a bond that is stronger than the wood itself even when only dried for an hour or so... wood clue is crazy good stuff if the joints are smooth. You could buscuit join it, but it's really overkill IMO for a smallish piece.

It might take some calculating, but have you considered doing the top with a series of triangular pieces and bringing it up into a slope or cone instead of just going flat across it? Assuming you ended up cutting the triangles on the CW, you could add additional detail into those pieces, like a border around the base or something...

BobHill
02-15-2007, 01:57 PM
Bill,

I'm not Pkunk, but I personally would glue them using biscuits if you wish the top to be flat. That makes a better joint in my opinion. Although I kind of like the idea of peaking it with decorative triangles too. but making the base of the peaking portion flat (for light socket attaching) and still using the biscuits for that. Flat plus peaking would really make it stable.

Bob

Dan-Woodman
02-15-2007, 04:46 PM
Too bad the cw don't do compound angles, you could pyamid the roof in sections all around.
Bill , have you tried the bevel feature on cw?

pkunk
02-15-2007, 06:00 PM
Bill, you have the answers. I'd just joint & glue pieces, cut to fit, & glue in place. Reinforce with some brads through the sides.

Digitalwoodshop
02-15-2007, 10:13 PM
Why not just a + piece, open to let the light shine above...? That's a half lapped cross piece say about 4 inches wide and otherwise open.

Just my 2 cents....

Very nice job on it.

AL

shaddy
02-16-2007, 12:06 AM
Why not just a + piece, open to let the light shine above...? That's a half lapped cross piece say about 4 inches wide and otherwise open.

A cross piece sounds good to me, depends on what light effects you want. Otherwise to edge join, like everyone else said, just make sure your edges are flat and 90° (most table saws with a good blade will be fine) then just use wood glue and clamp. It'll be more than adequate.

Shaddy

Bill
02-16-2007, 05:07 AM
Hello,
Thanks for everyone taking the time to post and all the suggestions, they all are very good
but I do need a solid top. I believe the best thing for me to do is to go with (pkunk's) suggestion
that seems for myself to be the most easy and sturdy way to go.

Dan-Woodman,

Bill , have you tried the bevel feature on cw?
No Dan I have not. I use the table saw for my bevels it seems to me it would
take to long and also put a lot more hours on the machine.

Bob,
When this lamp is finished I will post a picture of it, as it sits now
it is just glued together and has not been sanded.

Thanks again for the help.
Bill.

menewfy
02-16-2007, 07:31 AM
Bill had you considered leaving the top wide open?

if you were to find a heavy duty clothes hanger, make a circle to gold the light socket then run off the center to aleast four sides then staple it to the side, for that matter look for an old light shade it is the same concept.

no work on the machine at all and it will allow light out the top.

just my thoughts I like what you have done so far keep it up.

Wood Butcher
02-16-2007, 10:42 AM
Bill,

A nice looking addition to your lamp would be routing a groove centered between the cutout and the ends. Take steel or brass rod the diameter of the groove and bend the angle to match the angle where the pieces meet. The tension of the rod will help hold the pieces together and add a nice touch to a beautiful design. The light fixture and hanging support can be made from flat bar drilled to hold the light fixture with L bends to screw into the wood on the inside. I would do a peeked top from metal. Cut templates from 100 LB. bond paper for the height of the peek then cut out the pieces of metal and solder together.
The brass rods and top would look really good. :D :D
WB

HandTurnedMaple
02-16-2007, 11:13 AM
Will the real Pkunk please stand up? :P

pkunk
02-16-2007, 02:04 PM
Will the real Pkunk please stand up? :P :D Heheh, I was better late than never. :D
Joint & glue-joint & glue-every clamp in the shop gots sometin in it. :D :D

liquidguitars
02-16-2007, 04:01 PM
You can dado each board 1" from the end on the inside and cut a small shelf just under the finished dado size, drill the shelf for lights.

It will make assembly go faster and tape the lamps sides like a clamp. Until letting the glue dry.

This message is not approved by PK :twisted:

Dan-Woodman
02-16-2007, 05:42 PM
Whatever top you put on it , you may want to put hole ,slots or whatever for the heat to escape.or it may warp your top.

pkunk
02-16-2007, 06:00 PM
This message is not approved by PK :twisted:
Why do I get the feeling - oh nevermind. :lol: :lol:

Bill
02-17-2007, 05:39 AM
Hello everyone,
I do appreciate all the help and suggestions but the top is what the folks wanted so I did go with (pkunks)
suggestion and also I will be putting in some kind of holes if needed like (Dan-Woodman)
suggested this makes sense.

I will take a picture some time today and post it but the holes in the top will not be in
at this time to give the glue time to set up a bit.

Thanks again
Bill.

Bill
03-24-2007, 07:54 PM
Finished lamp-5 I forgot to post the picture when I finished it.