First Big Order

[unitedcases]

Help from all please. Finally got my first big order. 35 deployment plaques. Now, they wanted paint and while I can paint I am very slow and opted for a piece of printed vinyl. So what I have done is had the machine trace a image of afghanistan. Then I am going to attach a piece of printed vinyl to it. I am using mdf and what you are looking at is the back side of the first one, or prototype. Using 1/2 in mdf. The sides are kicking my butt. I am using kilz primer and had to really soak it on there to get it to seal up. So just wanted to see what everyone else thought. Am I not sanding the edges enough, should I be shooting it with something else first? I had thought about hitting just the edges with sanding sealer and resanding and then priming with the kilz. I feel I can finish this one without losing my mind, however I have 34 more to do. Any critiques are appreciated. Thanks.


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[Dale]

Have you read the "PAINTING MDF" thread in the Finishing section? It discusses several methods of painting MDF, hopefully something in there will help you.

[unitedcases]

Yes. Several methods was what confused me even more. I guess with 34 more to do maybe I will just do 1 at a time til I find the method I like. The next one I am going to do is cut it out, then hit with 80 grit on the scroll saw/sander, then apply 3 parts yellow glue and 1 part water and let that dry then hit it with 120 and then shoot the kilz. Then touch up with 180 and reshoot as needed. As with anything trying to find the best course of action without losing my mind. Mdf is very unchartered waters for me.

[Dale]

Good luck, please let us know what works best for you!

[unitedcases]

I got 34 different tries ahead...

[Capt Bruce]

I'd suggest you try using drywall spackle applied with your finger as it seems to fill the open surface and voids on cut edges better than anything else I've tried on MDF. Then use a sanding mop with about 220 grit and I think you'll be ready for the Kilz. Just my 2¢.

[badbert]

+1 for Drywall joint compound! Nice crisp edges. Sands easy. I wipe it down with a damp sponge, before I sand it. It also makes a great faux inlay material. It can be colored with acrylic paint.

[unitedcases]

There are some tight corners in that shape though. That will be my next try.

[unitedcases]

Ok, lets try something new then, cutting 1/2 mdf with a 1/8 cutting bit. How many passes? In theory it should come out smoother and less rough edges to sand.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Interesting project.....

I do some Vinyl and AIR pockets in the vinyl as you apply it will be a BEAR... Order extra prints... ASK your Vinyl Guy about Surface Prep as the paint you may be using could let the Vinyl release and fall off... And they make 2 kinds of vinyl.. Calandered and ??... One will shrink over time as it drys out... YOU could see it on Truck Lettering where the letters shrink and leave a glue shadow...

I have given this some thought as a similar procedure would be used to make the historical building cutouts.

My thought was to print on a solid substrate like .050 Unisub Phenilic. I have some in 11.5 x 23.25. It is similar to Counter top matrerial. It is something I can full color print on like the Accountable Boards.

The Accountability Boards are made from Clip Board Material with the same coating on both sides. It would be too thick for this option.

If I had the same cut file as you in the same designer version since I am still using 1.184 (my bad), I could cut the Phenilic to the same shape as the map board. Or even since machines are different in calibration.... YOU could cut the Phenilic and send the cut pieces to me and I would print the top then send back... But you may actually have a shop locally with the same capability... Search Awards Shops or Laser Engravers..... Ask if they can do SUBLIMATION... that is the process used...

I agree, sheet rock mud is the way to go on the sides...

You then use a glue or counter top epoxy to attach the printed piece....

My buddy on the West Coast as a DCS1024UV Printer that has a 10 x 24 flatbed table that you could print directly on cut out wood blanks. It cures with LED UV Light... A $36K machine....

MY big tag job of $38.4K fell through.... it was a fun dream while it lasted... :)

Good Luck,

AL

This is all examples of what can be printed with the Sublimation Process. Print a transfer sheet that has a paper with a clay coating and special ink that in a heat press transfers to the poly substrate at 400 degrees F.

You can see some air bubbles in the Alumimum License Plates where I printed a Clear Poly with the Image and applied it over White Reflective Vinyl then applyed the white vinyl over a License Plate Blank. I could print on the blank but it would not be reflective.

The printer shown uses Special Bag Ink... The maker of the Ink has decided to stop making the ink for MY 2007 printer so I am on my last of the ink... I need to buy a $2K Richo 7700 printer with the special Gel Ink soon or be out of business....

[mtylerfl]

For some reason, reading Al's post reminded me...brush on regular Elmer's white glue mixed 50/50 with water to seal the edges of the MDF (wipe off excess from the top and bottom surfaces with a rag). I have never tried this myself, but read about it somewhere awhile back (on another CNC Forum). Not sure why the 50/50 water/glue mix...seems like straight Elmer's would be better, but again, I have not tried it and the fellow who does this is someone I trust (his name is Michael Mezalick). You could do a couple test pieces and see how it works out.

[unitedcases]

Well I have put tons of thought into this one. First I am going to let the machine cut the pieces out. I believe I will start with a more "clean" edge to start. Then I plan to hit it with sanding sealer then 120 and then more sanding sealer and then 180. All on the scroll sander and not to rough on it by any means. Its a process but for this one I am willing to do it. I will post results as my bit should be here tomorrow.

[Digitalwoodshop]

You have some tight turns... Just another option.... Back when I did the big Quilt Rack fail project.... I let the machine do what it did best... cut the artwork, text and square holes...

I then made a jig from Plastic and cut out the outline with a router table... In your case, I would choose a 1/4 inch bit for the first pass then use a 1/8th bit to do the clean up and tight work... I bet you could cut all of them in the time the machine would do 20.....

Car BONDO worked to fix my pattern when I cut it...

Good Luck,

AL

[unitedcases]

The problem now is the print wont match my cutout. I took their printout and scanned it and made a cut path. Just doesnt line up.