I need to do lots of cutting with the machine....

[TurtleCove]

I need to do a lot of cutting of shapes with the machine. Mostly curves. Nothing small and intricate, but these shapes are nested inside of each other, such that using a bandsaw isn't possible, and using a scroll saw, will be too time consuming. A CNC is perfect.

Draft, or Normal mode is fine, but I'm concerned about breaking the 1/8" cutting bit. Size of kerf isn't an issue, so is there a 1/4" cutting bit on the market I could use?

What's the deepest I dare cut in Sugar maple, Cherry, and Walnut ?

[bergerud]

There is a 3/16 cutting bit. How deep do you want to cut?

[TurtleCove]

3/4" will be my final depth.

[TurtleCove]

Would this bit work?
Here. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLU-MOL-DRILL-BITS-BRAD-POINT-3-16-INCH-FOR-WOOD-CUTTING-NEW-5-COUNT-/171116523408?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d756ef90)

I'd consider this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porter-Cable-43051PC-3-16-Straight-Double-Flute-Plunge-Cutting-Router-Bit-/320782710593?pt=Routers_Bits&hash=item4ab023b741), but it doesn't say the length of the cutter.

[bergerud]

I would use the 3/16 and do a max cut per pass of 1/4. There is little danger of breaking the 3/16 bit but I would do the max passes to minimize the stress on the machine and avoid possible tracking problems (board slipping on belts). Make sure the head pressure is good and stay under the rollers during all the cutting. If you post a picture or example of what you are trying to do, others here might have some more ideas.

[TurtleCove]

Thanks Berg.
I'd post some pics, but it's kinda proprietary in nature....

[bergerud]

The first bit was a drill bit and the second did not look like it had a long enough cut. Something like

http://www.woodhaven.com/Woodhaven-15203-Carbide-Spiral-Up-Cut/dp/B002P580QY

is, in my opinion, ideal. (This was just the first picture I found.) You can probably get a bit just like it at the nearest router bit rack.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Depending on what type of wood you are cutting.... This would be a perfect opportunity to do the cutting without tabs and design the vector cuts as multi pass and leave a skin on the bottom... This would hold all the parts in place... Using MDF would be good.... Then you run it up side down through a thickness sander and it releases the parts.....

I know this post is about the bit... But I wanted to throw in a "bit" of advice.... LOL

AL

[DickB]

FYI draft or normal applies only to carving - makes no difference on vector cuts or cutouts.

[TurtleCove]

Thanks Dick. I was wondering about that. So, the head movement won't slow down, until I set it to Medium or better?

[DickB]

Vector cutting speed will not change no matter what Quality you choose: Draft, Normal, Best, Optimal.

[lynnfrwd]

Vector cutting speed will not change no matter what Quality you choose: Draft, Normal, Best, Optimal.

Isn't the speed change determined upon which bit you assign to the project?

[DickB]

Isn't the speed change determined upon which bit you assign to the project?That's my understanding, but the original statement was "Draft, or Normal mode is fine, but I'm concerned about breaking the 1/8" cutting bit", so that's what I was answering. Draft or Normal has no impact on the speed of the 1/8" cutting bit.

[bergerud]

What I have found is that what Dick says is true for cut outs. The setting does not change the time (for a given bit). Vector cut paths, on the other hand seem to have a slight difference in times as reported by Designer when uploading. For a quick example I made I found draft - 14.08, normal-14.39, best-15.45, optimal-16.29. I do not know if the speeds really would be different but Designer implies they would be. This may be a question for M.

Edit: center line also gives slightly different times.

[lynnfrwd]

This may be a question for M.

He went home already. He will be the one to know...

[RMarkey]

The quality setting determines the top-end speed of a vector path.