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aokweld101
09-11-2013, 06:36 AM
I have done this before but I was a little vague on doing it right the first time. It cuts the carve time almost in half. Thought I would post and have someone proof read it before I wasted wood. I used nominal sizes but if I want to make the .25 slots to .22 slots and the .5 to .44 I'm having problems comprehending on how to do that. and I'm using a 1/8 cutting bit for the pockets or if a better bit can be used...this second one I have no idea how to do the vertical slots..pattern 4 is my attempt

zan29
09-11-2013, 10:49 AM
This is my version of a pocket cut and you should be able to see what I've done.

aokweld101
09-11-2013, 11:03 AM
you must of used the 2.02 I'm still in the 1.187 but I'd like to see it...lol

zan29
09-11-2013, 11:25 AM
Sorry about that...........there you go!

aokweld101
09-11-2013, 11:39 AM
I thank you for the heads up on this I had the right idea.. I am going to have to change a few things but think I have it thanks again..

Digitalwoodshop
09-11-2013, 12:12 PM
I made this slot sample board. Considering Humidity changes the physical board, but it is a quick reference when I need to make slots. I use the designer numbers for the select slot to get me close faster...


Just an idea that has helped me... Takes all the math out of it...


AL

aokweld101
09-11-2013, 03:37 PM
al, I have to say your boards went right over my head I would assume different sizes on the different slots that don't tell me how each one was done I am guessing that you put in your documents when all said and done.

bergerud
09-11-2013, 05:02 PM
A few things to consider when cutting out pockets:



The bit follows the path in the same direction as you used when you created the path.
Starting or ending the cut on the sides of the pocket can mess up the sides.
Make the path go in the y direction as much as possible to reduce tracking errors and x gear wear.
Make the cut in a single continuous path so the bit stays down the whole time.
Space the paths less than the bit diameter apart. (Reduces the bit load and eliminates the "thins".)
If you start in the center and spiral out, go clockwise. (Counter-clockwise will climb mill.)
If you start in the center and spiral out, make the last cut go all around the pocket perimeter and then go back in to end.
Turn off labels when drawing!


Think of how the drill function cuts out pockets. I think the problem of pockets is really a complicated subject worthy of continued experimentation on our part. It may be that a future version of Designer automates it for us.

Here is an example of one of the ways I do it.

Digitalwoodshop
09-11-2013, 06:43 PM
al, I have to say your boards went right over my head I would assume different sizes on the different slots that don't tell me how each one was done I am guessing that you put in your documents when all said and done.

I just drew rectangles and set the depth. I increased the size in the edit increasing the size as I went.

I just used a rectangle and assigned a depth with the 3/8 end mill bit. I call it the 1/2 inch in the picture but it was 3/8.

I can't find the file but it is in the pattern thread from a few years ago.

AL

aokweld101
09-11-2013, 06:52 PM
bergerud this is following what I think you were trying to tell me to do..I started on the long pocket cut right to left going clockwise... and the vertical from center top outward in a clockward motion, I hope I have it right..thanks good Buddy. I didn't do the first two verticals I didn't want to go in overload..lol I'm looking at the vertical and l think my clock is running backwards and I think I should of started on the other end of the long cutout.

aokweld101
09-12-2013, 04:29 AM
I couldn't sleep I had this cutout on pockets going through my mind I think I have it this time..I worked all day yesterday trying to figure it out. tried 11 times and think I have it. I've been tweaking the jewelry box that I just posted trying to get where I can save some time on it, I have 7 girls to make for by Christmas and the way I had it was going to take 7 weeks to do them all. Anyway can some one proof read this to see if I'm on the right track. THANKS IN ADVANCE !!

bergerud
09-12-2013, 09:08 AM
Looks ok to me. You have started and stopped on edges which is taking a risk of a little divot. There is a little gap on the top left of the long slot which might leave a little blip.

What is the snap state? I cannot get my grid to line up. (You could turn off the snap to tweak the start and stop points off of the edges.)

aokweld101
09-12-2013, 09:47 AM
I was using .062 grid I made the slots .06 smaller to accommodate using veneer which I was trying to make the slots at .22 and .44

Capt Bruce
09-12-2013, 10:11 AM
Just for what it's worth I've become a big fan of Michael T's video on pocket cuts using CorelDraw to do the layout of all the interior lane passes. If you have the CD software and DFX Import it's a real time saver and has cut dead accurate pockets for me with no real required math on my part. Keep It Simple S..... works for my slow brain every time. Round, square, star shape, rectangular it matters not. Just my 2 .

bergerud
09-12-2013, 10:51 AM
Just for what it's worth I've become a big fan of Michael T's video on pocket cuts using CorelDraw to do the layout of all the interior lane passes. If you have the CD software and DFX Import it's a real time saver and has cut dead accurate pockets for me with no real required math on my part. Keep It Simple S..... works for my slow brain every time. Round, square, star shape, rectangular it matters not. Just my 2 .

The things I do not like about the concentric offsets is that, since they are closed curves, direction control and order are lost and the bit goes up and down to start and finish each path. For irregular shaped pockets, however, it is quick and easy.

liquidguitars
09-12-2013, 12:10 PM
I agree, at one time with designer you could start a serpentine path in the center and work out the firmware seemed to compile knowing where to start on the path, now I have no idea where the bit will start.

Same issue with any mirroring you do, in the old days you could mirror a path and the in points would be the same now the software just flips the cut direction blowing out end grain randomly.
Still the pockets come out well and do what's needed.

aokweld101
09-12-2013, 06:25 PM
well I just finished the layout and I am going to carve it now. I thought I would add my two cents worth.. on the tool inset box they have a box that says "FLIP" I was so wound up trying to get the cut out right for two days that I didn't see the box that said "FLIP" I could not figure out why the cut out was bigger than what I wanted so It was over whelming me on trying to get it I noticed the darn thing one hour ago, and now I'm done I just might as well put a neon light on my forehead saying "I'M STUPID"...no wonder bergerud coundn't get it lined up !!!

aokweld101
09-12-2013, 10:07 PM
I have the carve done it turned out great that saved 39 mins. on that particular carve. the sides after I get done will save 4 hrs. carving time you add that times 7 boxes and it will save me 32.55 hrs. carving time!

Digitalwoodshop
09-13-2013, 12:27 PM
Good Job !!!!

aokweld101
09-13-2013, 01:02 PM
thanks AL, determination and the attitude that it's not going beat me works every time, as I turn a little bit to get the pat on the back...lol :oops:

aokweld101
09-16-2013, 10:19 AM
I have done a mistake on my pattern I have my back on the front and front on back of the board is there a way to reverse them.. the only solution I can come up with without redoing the pattern is to do two patterns on two separate patterns or I could put more tabs on the cut outs and tape the cut outs for the pattern drawing I'll do on the smaller piece of board faking the computer out.

bergerud
09-16-2013, 11:00 AM
The mpc is single sided. Is it supposed to be double sided?

aokweld101
09-16-2013, 11:31 AM
yes, its suppose to be a front and back..slots to the back and cutouts to the front ..veneer goes for the 1/4 slots and 1/2 guides to fit 1/2 by 3/4 for the guides boards for the drawers.

bergerud
09-16-2013, 12:38 PM
I guess I do not see the problem. If you can do all the operations from one side, it is better. It does not matter which way the cutouts are done. (If you wanted to route the edges of the front and slot the back, it would then really need to be double sided.)

aokweld101
09-16-2013, 01:26 PM
I stopped be so lazy and just done the pattern all over again. After doing this since Jan. of this year I finally "GOT IT".....

bergerud
09-16-2013, 02:35 PM
If that is in the mpc is what you want to make, a one sided operation is all you need. Why do a double sided carve if you can do it all from one side?

aokweld101
09-16-2013, 02:41 PM
if I do it from just one side if I do a carved pattern on the smaller board will the machine know what side to do a carved pattern?

bergerud
09-16-2013, 04:46 PM
I think we are having a communication problem! All I am saying is that you can make the cut outs from same side as the pockets. It does not matter if it is the inside or outside of the box. Designer will see it as the front of the board even if it is the inside of the box. So why not do the cut outs from the same side as the pockets? Whenever possible, I like avoid two sided carves. It is be more accurate to operate on just one side.

cestout
09-16-2013, 06:26 PM
cut and paste - if you need to, start a new project and paste the stuff where it should be (front or back on the new board.

aokweld101
09-16-2013, 06:44 PM
all right I have an example on this pattern. but I understand now with cestout explanation ..I think my whole problem was trying to think the computer didn't know what side to put things on.