PDA

View Full Version : My board sensor question (yes, another board sensor question)



Don Butler
09-03-2013, 10:11 AM
Here's the data om ,y machine:
s/n - B X.505.411
Firmware revision: 1.187.10870
secondary Rev. 3
Firmware build 0417:090305

I haven't used the machine since early last summer (2012). Cleaned it up and started to go through the prelims.
Error message: clear board sensor.
Checked and cleaned carefully. No change.
Checked the sensor under Options. Best reading 73.

Is the sensor kaput?

Don

Digitalwoodshop
09-03-2013, 10:33 AM
I made a post on Board Sensors last night too.

Since you joined in 2008 you might have a older "A" unit.

The Board Sensors circuit board was not glued to the black holder in the early years. This let the vibration from a worn out QC with BB Marks in the bit holders cause vibration that snapped off the LED's. See Pictures.... Plus it let dust get inside the lens...

The standard test is to crank down the board with a sheet of white paper on it. A 156 is perfect. A 76 would be a dirty lens or a broken LED.

The Signal passes through the FSC Cable so it can also be broken.... Gently moving the cable while doing the paper test can show the numbers change for a bad cable. Know if you have a 18 or 14 pin FSC Cable.... Plugging a new 14 pin cable into a 18 pin socket will short out your computer a $300.00 plus fix. They sell a A907 Kit to replace the old 18 pin cable. A 14 pin cable and 2 circuit boards.

The wires to the board sensor can pinch too...

Let us know what you find.

Remove the board sensor and CUT down the back removing the back flap to get easy access to the window and see if the LED's are broken. Use Tape to seal the back side of the sensor.

AL

Don Butler
09-03-2013, 12:32 PM
OK, I got the sensor out, and I can see both LEDs through the window (lens).
When you say CUT, what exactly am I cutting? The plastic part that covers the back? Or the glue line around it?
I think I have a B machine because that's what my serial no. is.
I doubt the cable is bad because I can see the numbers change as I increase the distance to the paper.
Maybe I would be just as well off to buy a new sensor instead of monkeying with this one?
don

bergerud
09-03-2013, 12:38 PM
I have two board sensors (from old B machines) which are down to 70 -80 as well. They are not dusty and I do not think they are broken. Could it be that the signal strength simply deceases in time? A five year life span on the infrared emitter? Anybody else have old "weak" sensors?

Don Butler
09-03-2013, 01:58 PM
Well, I have a job waiting for this so I just ordered a new sensor.

Here's me, hoping that fixes it!

don

Digitalwoodshop
09-03-2013, 02:05 PM
Sounds like a plan.... I just saw you had a "B" machine listed in your first post... sorry...

Good Luck,

AL

bergerud
09-03-2013, 09:22 PM
I have two board sensors (from old B machines) which are down to 70 -80 as well. They are not dusty and I do not think they are broken. Could it be that the signal strength simply deceases in time? A five year life span on the infrared emitter? Anybody else have old "weak" sensors?

Just to answer my own question. Look at these pictures. Both of the sensors I was referring to are missing their C6 surface mount capacitors. It appears that the plug shears them off if one is not careful. Apparently I was not careful. I think this might explain why the sensors were operating at half power. Maybe only one IR emitter was working.

Something to watch out for. If you or someone else has had the sensor out and the output numbers are in the 60 - 80 range, you may have the same damage.

Digitalwoodshop
09-03-2013, 09:56 PM
Just to answer my own question. Look at these pictures. Both of the sensors I was referring to are missing their C6 surface mount capacitors. It appears that the plug shears them off if one is not careful. Apparently I was not careful. I think this might explain why the sensors were operating at half power. Maybe only one IR emitter was working.

Something to watch out for. If you or someone else has had the sensor out and the output numbers are in the 60 - 80 range, you may have the same damage.

That is some GOOD STUFF !!!!! I have a bunch of boards....

Thanks,

AL

Don Butler
09-04-2013, 09:05 AM
I just had another look at my sensor. C6 seems to be intact.
New sensor on the way from Texas.

Don

Don Butler
09-07-2013, 10:55 AM
The board sensor arrived in only two days (Yay) and installed with only the expected dificulty. The board sensor test returned a 150.
Then I had a "close cover" error, and finally got that fixed.
Now it stops during board measuring, makes a strange raspy sound and stops.
I checked head pressure and it's around 70 lbs.
Now, after checking that, I had a look at the front of the machine and found the front (right side) traction belt torn up.
Huhhhhn.
I think I let it sit too long without using it.
Calling LHR, but I think they're closed today.


db

Don Butler
09-07-2013, 11:44 AM
Just got back from watching the Youtube video on changing the belts.
I see I will have to disassemble the machine to make sure I get everything I need to get the job done.
Does anybody know what the difference in price is between the sandpaper belts and the rubber ones?
This doesn't look like it's beyond my skill set. :->

db

fwharris
09-07-2013, 12:38 PM
Basically $17.00 vs. $140.00 http://store.carvewright.com/home.php?cat=283

aokweld101
09-07-2013, 12:41 PM
I had a similar problem yesterday my board sensor was reading 48 so replaced the board sensor and its up and running, listening to people here on the forum I had extra parts.... thank gosh I listened !!!!

Don Butler
09-07-2013, 12:55 PM
Thanks.
I think my mind has been persuaded by the economics!

db

aokweld101
09-07-2013, 01:08 PM
on my second machine I wanted the rubber belts it wasn't 10 minutes into using my new machine that the bit broke and tore the sand paper belt I replaced it with rubber belts and don't regret the choice I think for economic reasons going with the rubber belts is better for the long haul...

Don Butler
09-07-2013, 01:11 PM
Hmmmmmmmmmm.
I'll think upon it!

d

Don Butler
09-13-2013, 05:16 PM
The new traction belts arrived today. The guide posts are cleaned and lubed. The head crank mechanism (clutch) is lubed. the new belts are in. After everything was assembled the head pressure was checked.
It's consistently going up to 95 pounds.
Called the factory, they said to align the guide posts.
I did that and rechecked. Still 95 pounds.
Did it again and rechecked. Still 95 pounds.

That's liable to tear up my new belts, isn't it?
I don't see what else I can do to reduce the head pressure.

db

Chris77089
09-13-2013, 05:23 PM
Try removing crank handle and seeing if there are any washers on it. They would be on it before the spring and may blend in to the handle. If they are there you can remove them, each one adds about 5lbs of head pressure.

Don Butler
09-13-2013, 05:35 PM
Thanks Chris!
That did the trick. Two washers I didn't see before.
Took 'em out and it's cranking 80 pounds consistently.

db

ps. Now, tomorrow, I'll see if, with all this misadventure, I can carve the job I tried to do in the first place.

d

Don Butler
09-14-2013, 10:07 AM
Well, here's another thing.
When I started the machine for a small test run it measured the board a;right, but when sensing for the bit the Y truck wouldn't go all the way over to the bit plate.
How do I make that adjustment?

db

aokweld101
09-14-2013, 10:24 AM
I had a problem with the same thing check the wires from the cut motor make sure they not stinking up stopping the truck from going all the way to the plate.

bergerud
09-14-2013, 10:25 AM
The bit plate problem is usually caused by the bit plate needing a clean and lube. Sometimes the problem can be the z motor hitting the cut motor wires in the top left corner of the machine. Play around manually moving the carriage to make the bit plate pop out. You could get a feel for what is wrong.

Don Butler
09-14-2013, 10:58 AM
Yup! It was the wires for the cut motor. I didn't push them over to the side after assembling the head cover.
Now then, there's just one more little thing. I keep getting the "Please close cover" error.
The cover is solid on its pivot and the error goes away if I close the cover a couple of times, but comes back in a few minutes.
Can the cover be moved a little toward the switch on the left?

db

bergerud
09-14-2013, 11:07 AM
Listen for when the switch clicks. If it clicks before the cover is all the way down, it might be a poor switch. If it clicks right at the bottom or does not always click, you may be able to tweak it by loosening and re tightening the screws which hold it.

Dan-Woodman
09-14-2013, 11:13 AM
Mine does that because my stand is slightly tilted toward a floor drain on one corner. I added a tapered door shim under the leg of my stand to fix it. Test your lid by closing and pushing down on one side then the other , or leveling your stand. I think there is a little give in the placement of that switch. Just loosen the screws and try moving it forward.

Digitalwoodshop
09-14-2013, 11:36 AM
The plug for the Left Side Switch CAN be inserted 180 degrees out giving a Open cover. White wire toward the center of the machine when correct.

AL

Don Butler
09-14-2013, 01:20 PM
Good tip.
Mine's OK, though.
Funny, sometimes I get the error and sometimes I don't.
I'm considering putting a small dab of epoxy on the plastic tab that actuates the switch.

db

Digitalwoodshop
09-14-2013, 07:26 PM
Since it is now "intermittent" and not "all the time open cover".... we have a different line of thinking...

First thing... When you removed the upper cover you need to be aware that the clear plastic cover does not have a mechanical stop in the closed position. So if you remove the top cover and move it to a table and DON'T support the clear plastic part, it rests on the SWITCHES. And when it rests on the switches it can damage the switches... Either by bending the contacts or cracking the plastic on the black cover where the left switch mounting screws are letting the switch be loose and intermittant....


Second is the screws for the clear cover hinge pivot point can become loose.

I have a loose worn cover... My fix is a Seat Belt... I pull the plastic cover toward the switch and place a strip of tape over the switch area between the clear and black cover. When the cover is down it holds the clear cover taunt to the switch.

AL

Don Butler
09-15-2013, 06:09 AM
I appreciate the thought that a worn or loose cover can cause an error message and stoppage. However, my cover isn't worn. It is tight and seems to be fitting properly. Moreover, I have tightened the screws for the hinge and the switch, attempting to move them closer as I do it.
My "B" machine has been inactive for some months for various reasons and when I went to use it again these events started with a "Clear Board Sensor" error.
Its been a series of small and large problems ever since.
I do feel better about maintaining my machine myself, though. I had some experience with a variety of more or less complicated machines while I was still in industry. After taking my CarveWright apart I feel pretty comfortable with doing repairs and I've learned about the little things that can crop up.
I also appreciate the willingness of others in the community to share their knowledge and experience.

db

coop2739
09-27-2013, 06:39 PM
I have a clear board sensor problem also. When I try to run a program (any program on my card), the head homes OK, I then press 2, the head moves about 2-1/2" to the right and stops, "Clear Board Sensor". I have checked the sensor with keypad and reads 149-150.
I have replace the FSP cable and reformatted the card. I have an "A" machine converted to the 14 pin boards and cable. What can I do?

Coop2739

fwharris
09-27-2013, 06:50 PM
When you are doing the sensor reading are you moving the head across the board to see if the readings are staying stable?

On your carving, is your board a flat surface or are there any voids on the surface? Like if you are using a jig/sled and have the carving board centered in the jig and have a space between the side rails and the carving board..

coop2739
09-27-2013, 07:01 PM
The reading are consistant from side to side. The boards I have tried are flat, good clear pine, no voids and square edged.

Coop2739

coop2739
09-29-2013, 06:33 AM
I have replaced the FSC cable, the board sensor and used different boards. It still reads 150 and stops at about 2-1/2" from the keypad side. The readout says "clear board sensor". What can I do now?

Coop2739

bergerud
09-29-2013, 09:26 AM
It reads 150 on the board and 0 off the board? Is the stall during width measurement? A more detailed description of what happens may help.

coop2739
09-29-2013, 12:30 PM
Bergerud,

Yes, when it starts to measure, it just stops about 2-1/2" in from keypad side. It reads 148-150 across the board and zero when off the board.

Coop2739

bergerud
09-29-2013, 01:31 PM
It sounds like the sensor is fine and the computer is reading it fine. I am stumped on this one. Did you try to refomat the card and reinstall the firmware? This sometimes solves unexplained behavior.

coop2739
09-30-2013, 06:26 AM
Found the problem. While doing all the changes I had left a wire over the top of the "Y" motor cooling fins which stopped the "Z" truck about 1/8" short of the home position. This left the board sensor over the board. It looked to me that the "Z" truck had homed but it actually had not so the board sensor did not reset giving me the clear board sensor message.

Coop2739

kroskam
09-30-2013, 08:31 AM
I had a problem with my door cover switch quite a while ago, and I was in a hurry to get a project done so I removed the switch and twisted the wires together. This indicates the door is closed even when it is open. I had planned to repair it when I received the new switch, but now I have found it very handy to have the door open while jogging the head to a starting point. It is difficult to see with the door closed, but crystal clear with it open. The cut motor switch on the other side is still functioning so the cut motor will not operate with the door open. I may not replace the switch after all. Any thoughts?

Don Butler
09-30-2013, 08:53 AM
I was wondering the same thing myself. If anyone has other thoughts I'd like to hear them.

Don

bergerud
09-30-2013, 09:06 AM
If you disable the left cover switch, you loose the panic stop option. Lifting the door will stop the motor but not the carving process. The truck will not lift up. You will get a stall or a broken bit. (You will have to fumble for the stop button in that panic situation which you know does happen once in awhile.) It is a trade off.

Capt Bruce
09-30-2013, 09:39 AM
I vote for safety first above all other considerations. Those ten functioning digits come in so handy for so many tasks. Please replace the switch.

Digitalwoodshop
09-30-2013, 11:55 AM
I agree replace the switch.... BUT if you are really happy with the ability to open the top cover like you are doing now.. You could add a PUSH BUTTON Monetary switch to the top of the cover that lets you "Knowingly" bypass the switch to do what you want Carefully but releasing the button returns the switch to the normal position... Even better idea... Mount a Momentary Push button to the bottom center of the clear cover with a wood knob in the center that lets you hold the button IN to disable the left switch as you lift the lid with the nob to LOOK. That way one hand is protected from getting in trouble by holding the switch and the other can do the jog to position.

AL