PDA

View Full Version : Head Alignment



PCOutlaw
08-09-2013, 12:31 PM
Ok, here is the issue…

I carved a few items and they came out fine (narrow stock). I then went to carve a wide (12") piece and it carved lopsided – far (non-keyboard) side deeper than near side. So I realized that the head was out of alignment (by about 1/8”). Apparently it has been like this since day one. And with narrow stock it was never noticeable.

So this is what I did…


Realigned head
Tested it – FAILED
Realigned head
Tested it – FAILED
Realigned Head
Tested it – FAILED


Now my question is: if when I realign the head again if I purposely lower the near side will it result in any issues with other components (truck, bits, compression rollers)?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Bob

fwharris
08-09-2013, 02:11 PM
No the head alignment will not (well it shouldn't) give you any issues with the other components.

If you are saying that the head is off from the key board side to the non key board side then the adjustment is done by raising or lowering the non key board side of the machine.

With the bottom cover removed loosen the screw holding the tie rod (item 36 http://store.carvewright.com/home.php?cat=383 ) on the non key board side so the gear is disengaged from the lead screw gear. Use a nail or small rod inserted into the hole in the lead screw to raise/lower that side of the head so it aligns with the key board side.

I put a wide board in the machine and measure from the top surface to any point on the machine frame.

PCOutlaw
08-09-2013, 03:07 PM
Thank you sir,

I just wanted to make sure before I did it that it wouldn't throw anything else off balance. (make matters worse)
I'm thinking I can even fine tune the height by using the jam nuts on the far side... Get the head lined up as close as possible with the gears and then fine tune with moving the jam nuts up/down accordingly.

fwharris
08-09-2013, 04:09 PM
I would not tamper with the jam nuts. Just do the steps I indicated and that will get you to level.

Digitalwoodshop
08-09-2013, 08:20 PM
If I was doing it....

Before you start, inspect the Sand Paper Belts is you use them to be sure you don't have a rolled under belt. ESPECIALLY if you do many narrow boards... It causes the Brass Roller side of the belt to wear and get slightly bigger making a tapered belt with the un used side smaller or normal.. This causes the belt to walk toward the keypad and roll under.. It is VERY hard to see a rolled under belt... I rip off a 3/8 strip from MY sand paper belt just on the one under the cut motor.... then watch the gap...

IF you have rubber belts... "Nevermind"...

I would use 2 boards something like 6 inches wide... Place one on each side of the machine.

Crank down with a piece of paper under each side. Pull the paper.. IF one slips out easy then it is high....

Un plug machine power and remove bottom and like posted above remove the Cross Linkage from the hand Crank from left to right side.

UN plug to NOT get Shocked...

Set machine upright and plug back in.... Options, Sensor Data and Z Data.... With a Bit Installed touch the bit to the board and record the number. Go to the other side and touch the bit and look at the numbers.... USE the hole in the right side jacking screw to lower the High Right.... OR if the keyboard side is high, use the hand crank to lower the left side... Once it is set... UNPLUG Power... Flip machine on it's back and install the Cross Connect.. Before you put the cover back on.....

Machine upright, plug in and raise the head and Lower the head a few times then stop and turn power back on and make some measurements.... When happy.... UNPLUG flip machine and install the bottom cover....

That is how I would do it..... One more thing..... When you first open the bottom cover with the bottom removed and Power UN Plugged..... Check the 4 screws in the bottom of the Smooth Rails that the machine main head raises and lowers on, make sure they are tight... I had one come loose and caused a level problem as the rail pulled up when cranked down.

Good Luck,

AL

fwharris
08-09-2013, 11:42 PM
Al,

Great technique on the releveling process.

PCOutlaw
08-10-2013, 09:48 AM
Thanks Al,

I will give that a try today. I didn't even think of measuring with the Z Data option.

PCOutlaw
08-11-2013, 12:52 AM
Ok, finally got the machine all back together.

It's down to .004 difference, near side is still higher, but can't get it any closer.
Ran a test carve, seems good, will do a full carve later today and see what happens.

Thanks for the advice.

fwharris
08-11-2013, 03:04 AM
Great job. Doing a carve today I notice mine looked to be a bit high on the right side. At the start of the carve it did about 4 air passes before it finally touched the board. When it did the actual first carve pass into the board the line on the right side was not as deep. I let it go ahead with the carve and will adjust it when it completes.

Digitalwoodshop
08-11-2013, 07:38 PM
I believe it was AskBud (RIP) who first posted 2 boards one on each end with a strip of paper on each. Crank Down, Tug Paper out.... Loose side is High.... Gives you a starting point so you are going to disconnect the cross connect and use either the hand crank to lower the left or hole in the right jacking screw to lower the right side.

Miss you Buddy...

AL