Do I need to have 7" longer board?

[Firefighter938]

If I want to make a 7.25" x 20" sign do I really need to use a 1x8 - 27" ? Or can I just use a 20" board?

[WoodenWizard]

If I want to make a 7.25" x 20" sign do I really need to use a 1x8 - 27" ? Or can I just use a 20" board?

In designer your project would be 20 inches long. The board placed in the machine would be at least 27 inches. The machine needs the extra length to keep the project held down by the rollers. This ensures you don't damage the machine, bits or your project. Other options are using a sled that accounts for the extra length, you will find many discussions on this.

Have fun. Welcome to the vortex.

Dave

[badbert]

You can always attach 4 inch pieces to the end of the board (most of us use 8 inches). I use pocket holes. Make sure the boards are the same thickness and width.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Tips and Tricks has lots of answers on this...

I use place on end or corner almost all the time. I attach a scrap the same size to the head end or right side of designer. Remember that for the front side of the board the brass roller is on the TOP of your screen as you look at it in designing your project. I draw a 4 inch box and keep everything to the left of the box. I leave the board LONG and cut it off after it carves hence having the extra 4 inches on each side.

AL

[cestout]

I use a hot glue gun and the back side of the table saw fence as a guide to glue the 4" pieces to the ends. For a one sided carve the end pieces only need to be over half the width of the piece, for a two sided carve the left end (as you look at it in the machine) needs to be the full width.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I use a hot glue gun and the back side of the table saw fence as a guide to glue the 4" pieces to the ends. For a one sided carve the end pieces only need to be over half the width of the piece, for a two sided carve the left end (as you look at it in the machine) needs to be the full width.


Good points....

AL

[DocWheeler]

It has been on my mind for quite awhile to try this, but have not done it yet.
Thought about using a single rail in the back, beyond center so that the roller-switches work normally.
This should hold the material from tipping without the need for anything fancy.

[Digitalwoodshop]

It would work for place on end if the front rail was even with the board edge as the roller needs to come uncompressed before the board sensor turns on and detects the front of the board. With place on end normally it will not need to detect the rear edge unless the total length is close to the designer length. Then it would need to uncompress the rear roller to see the board edge. Likely it would roll right out of the machine if it needed to detect the rear. I normally just use longer boards for the rear and cut it off after carving and a 4 inch block in front.

AL

[DocWheeler]

Al,

I think you missed the most important part of my post.
"beyond center so that the roller-switches work normally"
With the roller-switches finding the ends of the board on
the keyboard-side, it should measure length normally.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Ken,

Your correct... I am confused... I pictures a big H.... When you test it please post pictures for the Informational Challenged guy like me... :)

AL

[peep]

4 inch board just for the rear, or hot glue gun on a 4 inch piece, that's really good ideas guys. Wow, I like that thinking. But I assume you can not hot glue on 4 inches to the rear also, because it migh snap off?