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atldal
07-29-2013, 05:20 PM
So I recently had a series of Z stall errors and took my machine apart. I first noticed it was sticking and took the motor our and it is spinning free. I next noticed I had an e clip off the bottom pulley and fixed that. Still had issues. I lubed everything up and then noticed that there is a crack near the top wheel. I have posted a picture. I assume this is the issue. Am I correct in this thought? Also is there a trick to getting the screws out for the wheels. I have tried and they all just want to turn and strip out.

THanks,
Shane63805

bergerud
07-29-2013, 05:56 PM
Here is the method I use:

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?20413-250-Maintenance-Requirements&p=176044#post176044
(http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?20413-250-Maintenance-Requirements&p=176044#post176044)
That crack in the truck must be from either over tightening or rolling over "stuff". You may need a new truck. (A quick weld could fix it if you know a welder.)

When I tighten the truck rollers onto the rails, I just tighten them so I can barely turn (slip) them with my fingers.

Geomoo1
07-29-2013, 05:59 PM
Looks like you need a new Z truck assembly. As for the bearings on the Z go to the carvewright web site and in the maintenance section find the PDF on replacing the Z truck. Paragraph 9 explains that the bearing screws are permanently glued and explains how to handle this.

OOPS! bergerud is just too fast for me...

lynnfrwd
07-29-2013, 06:11 PM
Per lead engineer:

"It should be replaced and he needs to drill out the screws with a 3/16" bit."

bergerud
07-29-2013, 07:01 PM
How much is a new "bare" truck? Is there a part number for it or do you have to buy the whole assembly as it seems according to the parts list? (There is no point in taking the bearings off at all if you have to replace the whole assembly.)

atldal
07-29-2013, 07:44 PM
I'm have to order a whole new assembly, but I need to loosen them up enough to take it off that is my only problem. I don't have a skinny wrench so I will have to order a new assembly and use the one that comes with it.

bergerud
07-29-2013, 07:54 PM
At least you will have a wrench. It is an important CW tool. You may have been able to back off the roller and have saved the truck if you had had one.

henry1
07-29-2013, 08:35 PM
the z truck,, to bad you just get the z truck with the bearing for the spindle only Yourself Upgrade ***A907 Required***Our price: $159.99




https://store.carvewright.com/image.php?type=T&id=20563 (http://forum.carvewright.com/product.php?productid=20563&cat=272)
Z-Truck Assembly with CarveTight Spindle - Do-it-Yourself Upgrade ***A907 Required*** (http://forum.carvewright.com/product.php?productid=20563&cat=272)
Our price: $159.99

rbrown
07-31-2013, 12:07 PM
Mine just cracked too... straight across the front of the truck starting just below the sensor and on the opposite side...

Personally... I think's it from the feed rates on the bits... using a 3/16 inch bit, taking 1/8 of an inch swipe each pass shouldn't be overheating the bit and I was hearing a strain and vibration in flex shaft and cut motor.

I think I'm done... it's time to get a real machine instead of a toy.
So I can have some control over what it doing.
Going to fix it and sell it.

This is getting to be a $200 every time I turn around deal...

Digitalwoodshop
07-31-2013, 01:14 PM
Mine just cracked too... straight across the front of the truck starting just below the sensor and on the opposite side...

Personally... I think's it from the feed rates on the bits... using a 3/16 inch bit, taking 1/8 of an inch swipe each pass shouldn't be overheating the bit and I was hearing a strain and vibration in flex shaft and cut motor.

I think I'm done... it's time to get a real machine instead of a toy.
So I can have some control over what it doing.
Going to fix it and sell it.

This is getting to be a $200 every time I turn around deal...

I understand your frustration.

Just a question before you go... I want to understand this better.... Please don't be offended by my question... I too agree that a lack of feed rate is a disadvantage. I cheat by telling I use a 1/4 inch bit but vector cut with a 1/16th. It would be a big selling point to be able to select the feed rate in a choice of selections or even a menu slider control. But that is a different topic.

So my question is... What type of projects have you been cutting.... Plastic? Litho? Oak? My belief is that doing litho's and plastic is just too hard on the machine.

I am in no way blaming the user.... I just want to understand...

Thanks,

AL

atldal
07-31-2013, 05:37 PM
Al,

I have done limited cuts with mine and all have been done on softer wood and no plastics or litho's. I too am frustrated at the amount of time my machine is down. You can see from my posts on here that I've had a series of issues with my machine and have fought it every step of the way. When it works, I love it, but when it doesn't it gets frustrating for sure.

Shane

rbrown
07-31-2013, 06:47 PM
Was doing 11 inch wide chipboard... 5/32 bit 3/16 deep with 1/8 passes... over heated and broke the bit.

Also I run a 22 inch fan on the back side it seems to keep the flex cable cool and blows air through the machine and out the front.
My sled is adjustable up to 14 inches wide with 3/4 inch oak runners so air can get around the inside the machine.

Then I was drilling holes and graduated holes in 11 X 48 X 1 inch laminated (1/8 veneer top and bottom over laminated blocks) red oak.
Did four pieces, each one was laid out to fix in a 2 x 6 inch section then I would cut them out with a radial arm saw (for a total of 22 pieces before it broke the 3/16 bit.
And then I noticed the crack.
That too was set for 1/8 inch passes.
each piece has:
4 -3/8 x 1/2 holes
2 - 5/8 x 1/2 holes
And three graduated holes in the center of the piece.
1 1/4 x 1/4 - 7/8 x 1/4 - 5/8 X 1/4
And most of the time it was "drilling" air.
I had it where it was grouped by 1 1/4 listed first then 7/8 then 5/8 in each group.

But it would do the right side 3/8's the one right side 5/8
then on the graduated holes it would do the 7/8 first then the 1 1/4 then the 5/8
(so for the "center" of the 1 1/4 it was doing nothing... until it got 7/8 of an inch out.)
then it would do the next two graduated holes the same way
then the 5/8 left side and the two left side 3/8's


I started doing ecig holders and have router setup (2 hp router @ 23,000 rpm) to do 1/2 round overs on 2X4 inch blocks of oak and I round over all edges and sides and I do 100 or more at a pop non stop and never burnt a bit and I'm pushing the router hard, my record is 75 in one hour.

Geomoo1
07-31-2013, 08:41 PM
Al,

I have done limited cuts with mine and all have been done on softer wood and no plastics or litho's. I too am frustrated at the amount of time my machine is down. You can see from my posts on here that I've had a series of issues with my machine and have fought it every step of the way. When it works, I love it, but when it doesn't it gets frustrating for sure.

Shane

I feel your pain, Shane. My machine is down, for an extended period, for a third time since I bought it in March of this year. I guess that after this time I will have an almost totally new machine.

Digitalwoodshop
07-31-2013, 10:25 PM
Thank You for the updates.... I appreciate it... Sounds like an interesting project.

Thanks,

AL