Cut Motor Test

[KeystoneChuck]

I am trying to perform a Check Motor Test and I am following the directions on the PDF file on the website and I do not have an option "8" which says its the "User Test". After I turn on the machine with the card in I pick option "0" which is options then it tells me to select "8" or scroll to "8" which is User Test. I only go up to 7. Any ideas? Using the manual like they want me to and it doesn't match.

[RMarkey]

from the main menu, press 0-2 and check the firmware version. needs to be 1.181 or higher.

[chebytrk]

I guess it's my turn now with the cut motor. I changed the cut motor brushes and had no issues (done it before). After that is when my issues started. The cut motor doesn't turn on while the initial set up is taking place with the bits. I double checked to ensure the cut motors wires were connected at the lid since I took it off to change the brushes.... all good. I then went back in and opened up the connection point on the lid cover to make sure there was no sawdust. There was a little, cleaned it and still the motor won't run when I do the Cut Motor test. Although it says it's running, nothing is happening. I've checked the flex shaft and turn the spindle by hand and can see that the motor is turning and don't hear any unusual noises. I've disconnected/reconnected the cannon plug at the cut motor and the other end and all looks fine. If I swap out the cut motor with my other machine and nothing changes, what is the likely culprit?

And.......... I have another CW and it's running OK right now (changed the brushes in that one too), but I'm starting to notice some issues happening. It runs, but I'm seeing that at times the bit is not touching the bit plate or a few minutes ago I saw the carving bit had gone too deep after carving for 15mins. Machine stopped and said to check/clean Y rails. Maybe I cleaned it too good. LOL Any suggestions? Here I thought I had only 1 "Shenita" CW (She needa this and she needa that). I guess I may now have a "Shegotta" CW too. Any suggestions are appreciated.

[henry1]

You have to open the motor and then check that all wire are connected were brush sit it happen to me way back

[Digitalwoodshop]

So the swap of the cut motor was a GREAT 1/2 split in the troubleshooting.. Good Job...

Then we have a short list....

The X Termination board is bad
OR a wire loose on the X Termnation board.

Clear cover Right Side Switch is bad or the plastic tang broke off the clear cover.

AL

[chebytrk]

Thank Al (& others).

So if I make a "thru" connection on the clear cover right side switch that would eliminate another possible trouble spot. The X termination board.... I haven't checked a pdf yet, but is that the small board at the cut motor or at the other end? I actually didn't open the cut motor when I changed out the brushes. I just took the motor out and unscrewed the caps and changed them out that way. Maybe I'll go in there and split open the cut motor to check everything in there as well.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone! Much appreciated.


So the swap of the cut motor was a GREAT 1/2 split in the troubleshooting.. Good Job...

Then we have a short list....

The X Termination board is bad
OR a wire loose on the X Termnation board.

Clear cover Right Side Switch is bad or the plastic tang broke off the clear cover.

AL

[fwharris]

The X termination board is on the bottom of the machine, bottom right side if you lay the machine over on the cut motor exhaust side. That is where the wires that run up to the cut motor come from.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Someone elses picture.

Look for burnt parts.

AL

[chebytrk]

Well I opened up the cut motor and it was a little dirty so I blew it out. All connections were solid and I put it all back together and STILL get the same fail on the cut motor test. I opened up the underside of the CW and blew it out as well. Some sawdust, but not alot. Didn't see any burnt markings on the x term board. By chance could I have burnt something out if I crossed the wires on the cut motor when re connecting them to the top lid after putting things back together? Don't think I did, but anything is possible I guess. Any idea on how much a X term board costs? Wait..... this is on my warranty machine. YESSSSSSSSSS ! I'll call LHR tomorrow and troubleshoot with them some and maybe they'll let me take the board off and mail it in for a swap out after we know for sure. It'll be alot cheaper shipping a x term board than boxing and shipping the complete CW. Wish me luck...

[lynnfrwd]

Well I opened up the cut motor and it was a little dirty so I blew it out. All connections were solid and I put it all back together and STILL get the same fail on the cut motor test. I opened up the underside of the CW and blew it out as well. Some sawdust, but not alot. Didn't see any burnt markings on the x term board. By chance could I have burnt something out if I crossed the wires on the cut motor when re connecting them to the top lid after putting things back together? Don't think I did, but anything is possible I guess. Any idea on how much a X term board costs? Wait..... this is on my warranty machine. YESSSSSSSSSS ! I'll call LHR tomorrow and troubleshoot with them some and maybe they'll let me take the board off and mail it in for a swap out after we know for sure. It'll be alot cheaper shipping a x term board than boxing and shipping the complete CW. Wish me luck...

Hey Jerry...we will probably want you to ship both the cut motor & x-term to make sure we have the right culprit. Also, check wire connections real good, too, first!

Call and troubleshoot with Hardware Tech FIRST.

We have a new PARTS TESTING FORM that we want all parts documented on before shipping to us now. Here is the link: http://www.carvewright.com/assets/service/General_information/Testing_Parts_Form.pdf

[malviski]

Need some help. I was carving a coin holder about 1 hour into it and the machine stopped and said check cut motor. I vacuumed out the sawdust, blew out the motor, and checked all the connections, closed the hood and the machine started to carve again but the motor was turning slow and the bit only went 1/4 inch into the cut instead of the .47 it was set for. The bit would change speeds and sometimes even stop. I stopped the machine and began to inspect it.

I noticed the brushes were worn so I replaced them. They were about half the size of a new one.
I tore apart the motor and gave it a thorough cleaning.
Checked the x term board, the head term board, the cut motor sensor board and nothing was burnt out or out of the ordinary.
Did a cut motor test, everything normal. did a cut motor sensor test and the machine read the turns when I spun the spindle.
I put the machine back together ensuring all connections were tight, no wires pinched, ect.

The machine runs but when it does the bit test, the motor spins up fast as usual, but when it carves it burns the wood and don't run as fast as when it did during the bit test. Also the designer software says the carve should take a little over 3 mins and the machine says the carving time was over 8 mins.

This is the original cut motor with a little over 240 hours on it. I have read all the threads on here pertaining to the cut motor and everything so far has been normal. I am thinking xterm board, but in my process to check it one of the white connectors came completely off the board and bent some pins so I need to replace anyway. I just want to get all the parts I need in on one order. If you have any experience with this please pass it on. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks for your time and assistance!

[fwharris]

What bit was you using and how many carving/cutting hours on it?

Carve time, the clock starts running as soon as you select the project and includes the time it takes to install the bits and any delays during the carve.

If you are getting a new X board you might also ask about any extra cables that goes with it.

[malviski]

I was using the 1/2" straight bit, which has about 8-10 hours on the bit itself. I was carving in pine which I regret because of the moisture, but it is the cheapest to run practice carves on. I will get the cables also and more than likely a new head term board just to have a spare. Thanks

[fwharris]

How deep of a cut and were you doing it in multi pass carving? The moisture/pitch in pine will gum up your bits fairly fast. Make sure you clean them up good after each carve.

[malviski]

I was carving a .47 total depth, but cut .25 max cut each pass.

[fwharris]

I was carving a .47 total depth, but cut .25 max cut each pass.

That does not sound to aggressive of a cut and I would not think it would of bogged the machine down. You might get some flex shaft vibration though.

Just a note on your "check cut motor" message. That does come up some times when doing non pattern carves. I believe it is the computer expecting the bit to be spinning at a certain speed and if it thinks it is not the message comes up. Most times (usually) I just press continue and let it go back to carving.

[malviski]

I have now changed out the head term board, the board sensor switch, the x term board, the front cover switch(a/c motor cut out switch), bought a brand new bit and nothing worked. The wood now burns when trying to make the same cut and fills up with pitch in about 3 seconds. I stopped the machine with no error messages, took the board out, and tried another easy project and now the motor will not turn on. The bit does everything it is supposed to do but cut. The bit drags across the board trying to cut but just wont turn. I tried running some user tests on the motor and the machine says the motor is running but it is not. The motor has 248 hours on it. How long do they usually last? I think it is fried...

[bergerud]

Time to check the brushes in the cut motor?

[malviski]

Need some help. I was carving a coin holder about 1 hour into it and the machine stopped and said check cut motor. I vacuumed out the sawdust, blew out the motor, and checked all the connections, closed the hood and the machine started to carve again but the motor was turning slow and the bit only went 1/4 inch into the cut instead of the .47 it was set for. The bit would change speeds and sometimes even stop. I stopped the machine and began to inspect it.

I noticed the brushes were worn so I replaced them. They were about half the size of a new one.
I tore apart the motor and gave it a thorough cleaning.
Checked the x term board, the head term board, the cut motor sensor board and nothing was burnt out or out of the ordinary.
Did a cut motor test, everything normal. did a cut motor sensor test and the machine read the turns when I spun the spindle.
I put the machine back together ensuring all connections were tight, no wires pinched, ect.

The machine runs but when it does the bit test, the motor spins up fast as usual, but when it carves it burns the wood and don't run as fast as when it did during the bit test. Also the designer software says the carve should take a little over 3 mins and the machine says the carving time was over 8 mins.

This is the original cut motor with a little over 240 hours on it. I have read all the threads on here pertaining to the cut motor and everything so far has been normal. I am thinking xterm board, but in my process to check it one of the white connectors came completely off the board and bent some pins so I need to replace anyway. I just want to get all the parts I need in on one order. If you have any experience with this please pass it on. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks for your time and assistance!
I replaced the brushes already, they don't even have 2 hours on them yet. Thanks for your time though, if you can think of anything else let me know.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Check your wiring on the Cut Motor....

Black from the Motor goes to the Black from the Termination Board.

White from the Motor goes to either wire of the switch.

White from the Termination goes to the other wire from the switch.

AL

[chypes]

Could be an issue with the RPM Sensor if the brushes are good and wiring is good..

[SteveNelson46]

The motor has 248 hours on it. How long do they usually last? I think it is fried...

I'm not trying to say your cut motor is still good but, I have 1300+ cut motors hours on the original cut motor that came with the machine and it's still going strong. Of course I have replace the brushes many times and I have a replacement motor as a spare for "just in case" but, so far so good. I am also using the original flex shaft. It only gets a little warm if I use large diameter bits and I have a spare for that also.

[malviski]

I'm not trying to say your cut motor is still good but, I have 1300+ cut motors hours on the original cut motor that came with the machine and it's still going strong. Of course I have replace the brushes many times and I have a replacement motor as a spare for "just in case" but, so far so good. I am also using the original flex shaft. It only gets a little warm if I use large diameter bits and I have a spare for that also.

can I please have some of your luck....that is good to hear. it seems like every time I turn this machine on there is something else going wrong. I take really good care of it and keep it clean. I have replaced the chuck, the flex shaft, in addition to all the parts I just replaced. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that I deploy a lot and the machine will sit for 10 months at a time???

[malviski]

Could be an issue with the RPM Sensor if the brushes are good and wiring is good..

is that the little chip on the cut motor? I have done the sensor test on it and it registers how many turns the spindle makes. Is there any other things I can do to test it? I don't see a part for just that alone that I could order and replace. I don't even see the cut motor. Do you know if I can buy those? Thanks for the time and help.

[malviski]

Check your wiring on the Cut Motor....

Black from the Motor goes to the Black from the Termination Board.

White from the Motor goes to either wire of the switch.


White from the Termination goes to the other wire from the switch.

AL

thank you very much. I will get out there later today and check the wiring. it may very well be that because I don't think the diagram was clear on what connected to what.

[SteveNelson46]

can I please have some of your luck....that is good to hear. it seems like every time I turn this machine on there is something else going wrong. I take really good care of it and keep it clean. I have replaced the chuck, the flex shaft, in addition to all the parts I just replaced. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that I deploy a lot and the machine will sit for 10 months at a time???

Don't be misled by my previous post. I have certainly had my share of problems and have vented my frustrations here on this forum and other places many times. The venting didn't do me or anyone else any good so I stopped doing it and tried to just concentrate on solving the problems.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I know the Deployment thing.... 10 years of Sea Duty in 20 years... Retired E7 FCC(SW) Navy.

Something else... The Crimps on the plastic push connectors have been known to need re crimping at times...

Look at the X Termination board and the C1 Capacitor.. it has been know to snap off one end and give problems...

I use what I call a seat belt on my clear cover, a strip of stranded packing tape about 2 inches long that I apply over the switch location of the clear cover to the black cover. Applied with the cover up slightly and when the cover is down it makes the tape taunt to hold the clear cover tighter to the switch. Over time my cover hinge pivot point has loosened up letting the clear cover not make proper contact with the switch. Call it the Seat Belt...

Sawdust inside the cut motor can cause bindng of the brushes in the slot... It is risky, but opening the cut motor and blowing the dust out is a good thing... Snapping one of the wires off.... not so good... I even had one hit a moving part and put a notch in the wire.... so careful...

AL

[malviski]

Finally got out there to check the wiring. It was hooked up right. I saw the top screw head to the to brush melted a little so I decided to take the cut motor out and check inside. I found the top brush housing melted and most of the brush gone. Any ideas? at this point I need a new motor anyway. I tried to call to put one on order yesterday and no one at carvewright answered.

[malviski]

Trying to upload photos but the uploader is not working on this forum.

[malviski]

687596876068761

[malviski]

The bottom brush and housing seem fine. Was the brush wires inside possibly hooked up to the wrong brush contacts?

[Digitalwoodshop]

It is my belief that the heating of the Brush Holders is caused by the contamination of the inside of the cut motor from stuff like wood dust and acrylic dust... Where it gets up between the brush and the spinning copper part and sort of lifts the brush but to keep the motor running the brush arc's MORE... some arcing is OK and Normal... BIG Arcing is the problem... It makes MELTING HEAT.....

SO I need to ask... do you have dust collection and have you done any acrylic?

We have seen this before....

Thinking you said you have dust collection.....

AL

[lynnfrwd]

Could have been per-dust collection?

[malviski]

Al,

I have never done acrylic. I have a dust collection system but it is only a shop vac. I completely cleaned the motor the last time I took it apart. The melting just happened trying to carve the same coin holder I had the burning issues on. Think a new motor would fix the issues?

[malviski]

the motor was cleaned inside and out about a month ago when I had all these issues. How much does a new motor run. i looked it up in the parts breakdown but it says unavailable.

[swaggerstick]

My 2 cents. I had no dust collection in the beginning. Only had 10 hours on carvewright. Motor quit in the middle of a carve. Would not restart after i sucked the dust out with a shop vac. Long story but I ended up taking the motor out and apart. It was full of dust. Reassembled it and it worked fine. That afternoon the dust hood that I had ordered came. I installed it and have had no more dust problems. I already had a 2 hp dust collector. 1550 cfm. Now i don't get a handful of dust after a 3 hour carve. A shop vac is not made to run that long in my opinion. Just my 2 cents. Good luck to you.

[malviski]

My 2 cents. I had no dust collection in the beginning. Only had 10 hours on carvewright. Motor quit in the middle of a carve. Would not restart after i sucked the dust out with a shop vac. Long story but I ended up taking the motor out and apart. It was full of dust. Reassembled it and it worked fine. That afternoon the dust hood that I had ordered came. I installed it and have had no more dust problems. I already had a 2 hp dust collector. 1550 cfm. Now i don't get a handful of dust after a 3 hour carve. A shop vac is not made to rum that long in my opinion. Just my 2 cents. Good luck to you.

thanks. I do have a dust hood on it and use a shop vac. I also have a 2 hp grizzy cyclone but don't have 220 in the house I rent. I tried running it off my 6500 watt generator but it don't provide enough power. I plan to run the 220 when i get to my own home for now the Navy moves me too much to do anything permanent. I appreciate your 2 cents and totally agree with you. With the hood and the shop vac I actually don't get much dust either. I was actually very surprised at the dust devil I ordered. It just seems like all the problems point to the motor not spinning fast enough.

[swaggerstick]

I can't imagine the 6500 watt generator not providing enough power. There are 746 watts in a HP. Unless you had a typo and meant 650 watt generator,.

[Digitalwoodshop]

The Cut Motor Armature FAN has 2 sides... One side, the Flex side, sucks air from a tube in the Electronic area and the back side sucks air THROUGH the Cut Motor.... Entering at the Cooling Fins near the Brushes... So Dust in the Air is sucked into the Motor....

AL

[malviski]

I can't imagine the 6500 watt generator not providing enough power. There are 746 watts in a HP. Unless you had a typo and meant 650 watt generator,.

No typo I have a 6500 watt surge and 5250 watt running generator. The motor will almost get up to speed then it trips the circuit breaker. by my calculations there should be plenty left but it trips every time and the generator motor bogs down. According to my generator book it is volts X amps = watts. it would take 3,080 watts to run the dust collector once up to speed but the book says to multiply x2 or 4 for start up. That is where there is not enough watts. I did not buy the generator I have to power the dust collector but I had it on hand for hurricanes. it is just my luck that it was not big enough. I plan on up grading soon though.

[malviski]

Finally got someone to answer the phone. sending in the motor and all the other parts I changed out that have a rebate on them. 62.00 dollars to rebuild the motor I have and they say about 10 business days. Hopefully this will solve the issues once and for all!

[swaggerstick]

I don't want to sound argumentative. But I was a Industrial Electrician for 35 years and those numbers don't compute with me. Here is the specs that I copied from a Grizzly 2 HP dust collector. I would say that you may have a bad breaker in the gen set. You might want to borrow a gen set from a friend that is approx. the same size and or take the collector to his house and test it. That way you won't get caught with a bad gen set if a Hurricane does show up. I would definitely pursue it and check it out. Like I said, I am not trying to be argumentative. Good Luck.


Motor: 2HP, 240V, single-phase, 3450 RPM
Motor amp draw: 9 Amps
Air suction capacity: 1550 CFM
Static pressure: 11"
6" inlet has removable "Y" fitting with two 4" openings
Impeller: 12-3/4" balanced cast aluminum
Bag capacity: 5.7 cubic feet
Standard bag filtration: 2.5 micron
Portable base size: 21-1/4" x 33-1/2"
Bag size (dia. x depth): 19-1/2" x 33"
Powder coated paint
Height with bags inflated: 78"
Approximate shipping weight: 122 lbs.