Replacing the Flexshaft

[Geophyrd]

Is anyone else fair stunned by how hard it is to replace the flexshaft? I spent almost three hours, trying everything I could...the angle from the hole in the back into the motor requires more 'flex' than the empty shaft seems able to accommodate. It seems to me that there should be a 'door' in the back for exactly this purpose. It can be screwed down, but remove-able when time comes. I did eventually get it in, but I was almost at the point where it would have been easier to ship the unit back to CW so they could do it. I'm guessing they take the entire top cover off to do it...something I also considered.

I hate to sound like a crank...this is the third flexshaft I've gone through (yep, I do lube the inner core with moly-lube) and every time is a pain.

[fwharris]

Yes removing the flex shaft with out taking to top cover off will be very hard and not recommended with out doing so... http://www.carvewright.com/assets/service/Service_instructions/CarveWright_service_remove_head_cover.pdf

http://www.carvewright.com/support-page/maintenance/#removecover

With out taking the cover off you do not have clear access to the inside of the machine and run the chance of bending/tearing something.

[TerryT]

It only takes about 3 minutes to remove the cover. R&R of the flex shaft is only another 3 or 4 minutes after that. I would imagine it would be a nightmare to try it with the lid still on.

[lawrence]

k...this is the third flexshaft I've gone through (yep, I do lube the inner core with moly-lube) and every time is a pain.

wow- how many hours do you have on your machine? That doesn't sound quite right.

Lawrence

[gapdev]

I took my Flexshaft out yesterday to clean and lube and it took less than 5 minutes to "loosen" the cover (didn't take it all the way off, just unscrewed so it could be moved a bit) and remove the Flexshaft.

I've had 1 melted Flexshaft and 1 brand new Flexshaft (replaced the melted one) that literally fell apart and then the core twisted itself into a pretzel, so I now have 4 new ones stored away, ready to be put into service when need be. These things have ZERO warranty (which might be against California Law) so I keep backups, just in case.

Kenny

[Geophyrd]

I also keep a spare...just in case, as well as a spare 1/16 cutting head


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[bergerud]

These things have ZERO warranty (which might be against California Law) so I keep backups, just in case.

Kenny

I remember, Connie correct me if I am wrong, that the flex on a new machine was guaranteed for 10 hours. I do not suppose they could guarantee a new flex on an old machine unless one could prove it failed in less than 10 hours.

[lynnfrwd]

I remember, Connie correct me if I am wrong, that the flex on a new machine was guaranteed for 10 hours. I do not suppose they could guarantee a new flex on an old machine unless one could prove it failed in less than 10 hours.


I don't remember EVER saying that. The flexshaft, if improperly installed or if spring gets bent or kinked, will melt. It has nothing to do with the quality of the part. The bit spins at 20,000 rpms and any point of friction can cause it to melt the sheath.

[bergerud]

It was for new machines only, I thought.

Edit: is it not covered by this?

"Minimum Warranty

LHR Technologies, Inc. (“LHR”) warrants product parts against defects in material or workmanship for the time period of 30 days from the original date of purchase or 10 hours of use, whichever comes first...."

[TerryT]

I hate to sound like a crank...this is the third flexshaft I've gone through (yep, I do lube the inner core with moly-lube) and every time is a pain.

Here is a long story, but it may help someone.

I have a machine that has had the flex lubed about 3 times since 2007. It runs perfectly, not much above ambient temp if any. My second machine ran great for about a year. During routine maintenance I pulled the flex shaft, cleaned and re lubed it. About 20 minutes into a carve it got so hot it bubbled the plastic on the sheath. Since it was the same flex that had worked great for a year or so I was puzzled as to why it was failing now. I took it apart and noticed that one strand (the flex core is made up of many strands) had lifted and pealed back when I re-installed it. That kept it from seating all the way into the cutter head. The increased length of the flex pushed it against the sheath generating the heat. A light touch with a grinder and re-assembled it has been working great for over a year now. The point is that if the core isn't fitting properly for some reason there is no amount of lube that will keep it from burning up. Make sure that both ends seat fully into the cut motor and cutter head. I think if you have that problem more than once you need to check to see if anything is stopping the core from seating all the way.

[gapdev]

I do not suppose they could guarantee a new flex on an old machine unless one could prove it failed in less than 10 hours.

How about a brand new flex where both ends came unglued, the core then began twisting and pulled itself out of the sheath and twisted itself into a knot. This was obviously (to me) a defective shaft.

But, I've gotten used to the no warranty on these parts and now keep spares.

Kenny

[bergerud]

Any company has to take responsibility for defective parts. If it was clear that the part was defective, would they not replace it? Certainly if they installed it, I would expect the 10 hour warranty to apply as I think it would to a new machine. (I may be wrong!) If the user installs it, well, I guess all bets are off.

[aokweld101]

are you sure that you had the flex shaft seated into the cut motor and the spindle, I make sure by seating the cut motor frist and the then hold it in for the spindle than I turn the spindle by hand to make sure that there is resistance and that both are seated