Board plate issue.

[johnsonswamp]

I'm still have trouble with stair stepping on cut outs, I've noticed that when my boards are all the way to the right (facing key pad) there is about an 1/8th" gap between board and right side fixed guide plate. and when the board goes all the way to the left there is no gap on ether side? I load boards in the middle of the length, with the gap as flush as can be on both sides. Happens on any board over about 2' long, boards are straight and same width all the way down. It's like the boards are somehow cocking to an angle during measuring.

[fwharris]

Check your head pressure and head level. Are you using the rubber belts or sandpaper belts?

When I see a board getting off track during the measuring process like yours I will raise the head up just enough to slide the board back up flush to the squaring plate. Just make sure you do not move the board in the X direction. You will get a "possible board removal" error so just answer the prompts to continue...

[johnsonswamp]

sand paper. I'm going to get a scale to check pressure asap. Whats the best way to check for level?

[fwharris]

Here is the link to the head leveling procedure.. http://www.carvewright.com/assets/service/Service_instructions/CarveWright_service_level_head.pdf

A quick and easy way to check the head for being level, Thanks Al!,

Install a wide board in the machine and lower the head
Go to the user options, sensor checks and scroll down to the Z readings
Install the 1/8" cutting bit into the chuck
Start on the keyboard side and lower the head down so that the bit touches the board, record the Z reading.
Continue across the board and note the readings.

If the head is way out of level you will see a big difference from the key board side.

Guessing though you are getting some drifting with the sandpaper belts. Make sure they are not rolling over on the ends on the keyboard side of the machine...

[bergerud]

I would check that the squaring plate is square. If a board initially up tight against the plate does not stay up tight, the belts and the plate must not be square.

Put a square against the squaring plate and, looking from above, see how the square lines up with the gap between the belts (or the y rails). I cannot find any info on adjusting the squaring plate. You could look at:

http://www.carvewright.com/assets/service/Service_instructions/CarveWright_service_replace_board_tracking_sensor. pdf

[Digitalwoodshop]

So if we eliminate head level.... at least a jacking screw problem...

I am with FW and the Sand Paper Belt is rolled under and raising the belt by the thickness of a single belt thickness... This is enough to change the board position.

My fix for this would be to RIP off a 1/2 inch strip of the belt under the cut motor at the brass roller....

9 times out of 10 the reply I get to this is... "The belt is not rolled under"... Trust me... It is very hard to see. In all the years I have had 1 rolled under right side belt but many, many of the left belt... Mostly for ME due to doing many 6 inch wide boards and the belt wears or becomes loose "ER" (Looser) on the keyboard half and causes drift...

AL

[gashawk]

I have the same proplem, so I avoid the cutting bit alot. The cutting bit stair steps and the board carves level, cuts level. I've always thought it was software.

[TerryT]

One thing I didn't see mentioned is that often this problem can be caused by the IN and OUT feed tables being too high. If the board is lifted as it hits the in or out feed table roller it can be lifted off of the brass roller causing the stairstep problem. It might be worth checking out.

[johnsonswamp]

Head level stayed between 502 and 504 all the way across, with both numbers showing up at both ends so it must be the board grain showing 002 drop.

Belts not rolled under yet, time to trim it though, been through that several times on left side. It's funny because the left side paper only has around 8 hours on it cutting 10-13" stock.

Head pressure was only 45lbs, BUT the scales I used would only fit under one roller, so going to get another one when I can get to town.

In/out table roller has about a 32nd gap between them and board.

I'm starting to think it's ether head pressure or the plate and rollers aren't lined up. But going to triple check everything, wasting boards is getting to expensive not to..

[lawrence]

def. check your overall head pressure- that can have a drastic effect for me - esp on tracking (which then causes rollover)

Lawrence

[bergerud]

Can you not put some small strips of wood on top of your scale to get it under both rollers at the same time?

I do not see why you do not check the squareness of the squaring plate. It is so easy to do. Just lay a square in the machine.

[johnsonswamp]

Hadn't thought of adding wood to scales. I plan on checking plate square, but being in a wheelchair it's not as easy as just looking down into the machine, going to check it though at lunch when a friend that usuallystops by gets here.

[bergerud]

Sorry. That does make it hard. You could push the y truck out of the way (to the bit plate) and hold a small board up against the y rails. Or just wait for your friend!

[johnsonswamp]

No need to be sorry, I'll try that. Is that plate not meant to be straight? I tried looking in and noticed when you put a long square on the full length of the plate it protrudes out about a 32nd at the brass roller making for a small gap at both ends.

The scale I used is one of my granddads so it had the BIG magnified dial on it so it wouldn't fit under both, but I added a 1x4x10"s or so long, re calibrated it and the most it would go to is 65lbs, tested several times and it ranged from 50-65. So cleaned and lubed everything and it now averages 80lbs.. I noticed if I lower it slowly it'll get to 82-83, if I go fast it pegs at 70lbs max haha. Still going to go over everything else again just to make sure there's not more problems on top of the low pressure.

I also learned if you think your machine is clean, take an air hose and blow in there and you'll be greeted with a face full of saw dust. :-o

[bergerud]

I am sure that the squaring plate should be straight. Mine are. I think that you have found the problem. If it is not straight, then one end (or both) cannot be square.

[johnsonswamp]

I am sure that the squaring plate should be straight. Mine are. I think that you have found the problem. If it is not straight, then one end (or both) cannot be square.

Thought so.. I wounder how in the world that happened, it would/should take a lot of force to bend that plate? It's only $10 thankfully..

[bergerud]

That is great. I wonder what the LHR procedure is for squaring the plate? I could not find a pdf on it. Maybe you will get instructions with the new plate.

[unitedcases]

I always lay a wide ruler in it and slide the squaring plate to it and loosen the screws that hold the plate. Then adjust as necessary and retighten the screws.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2

[bergerud]

I always lay a wide ruler in it and slide the squaring plate to it and loosen the screws that hold the plate. Then adjust as necessary and retighten the screws.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2

We are talking about the fixed squaring plate on the keypad side, not the sliding one.

[johnsonswamp]

It's not as noticeable with the square because it tries to go under the plate a tad when you slide it firmly against it. Need a flash light to make the pictures better, but it appears that I no longer have one...

Talked to LHR, the guy suggested taking it off and seeing if it is bent and what may be under it. I'm always nervous when working on this thing, have no problem taking an engine into 100 pieces but I know squat about this..

[DocWheeler]

Yes, seeing inside the machine from a wheelchair can be a pain.
That is why the cabinet I made for it is only about 24" high.

Can you push your board tight against the squaring plate and check
with your fingernail that it is tight on both ends?
I do this as it measures, carefully, to make sure that it stays straight.

Maybe you just need to move the right end into the machine a little.

I once made a sled that wanted to creap away from the plate, never figured out why.

I would also assume that you could straighten the plate if needed rather than buying a new one.

[bergerud]

If you do take off the plate, make sure and note the position of the squaring plate adjustment pin (or put some tape on it). If it is the other end that is bent, you may want to keep the same position.

[johnsonswamp]

OK, even more confused now.. Took plate off and put on flat surface, had only a very little bend to it (hair line) and in my opinion wasn't enough to hurt anything. Got it all back together and gap still there but now my board is reading 1" short, before my test board read 24.127 and now 23.1-3ish during multiple tests..

No longer concerned with the gap, can compensate that I think during board input. But what could have changed the brass roller setting? Didn't unplug it, took all 4 screws out of plate and left sensor in it's place.

[DocWheeler]

There is a short section of rubber hose, at least there was on older machines, under the roller-sensor - is it still in position?

[johnsonswamp]

Little rubber thing fell off when I put it back on..

Had both covers off today, cleaned and greased everything, trimmed roller papers, squared the sliding plate. It seems to be fine now on a measuring test, but going to try a big carve and cut here in a few.

Thank you all for the help.