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DCHeels
05-19-2013, 01:04 PM
Hello all, Finally got my new machine up and running. Everything has been pretty good so far but I'm having one small issue:

When I insert a new board and perform a measurement, it is nearly perfect. In this case, a brand new piece of MDF that is 8" by 15.5". The length is dead on and the width measures at 8.018" which I thought was pretty good and doesn't require recalibration.

I then ran a measurement with a bigger board, 10 by 36" and it provided similar accuracy.

Back to the original test board, re-measurement looks good again. Go to start project, and when it measures at the start, it comes up with 8.443"! So it wants to center on width or insert a new board. If I select center on width, it is making my text letters way smaller than intended.

Any help would be appreciated. I don't understand how the machine is coming up with different measurements for the same exact workpiece, especially when leaving it in place and not removing it between measurements.

This is 3/4" MDF that I cut on my table saw which is pretty well calibrated.

Thanks in advance!

Digitalwoodshop
05-19-2013, 01:10 PM
I am betting the 7 inch rule of wood is the problem... IS the machine asking you to SCALE the project on the LCD when you load it... IF yes, then that is the problem....

Tips and Tricks has lots of good information on how to properly setup the project and machine.

4th post, WELCOME.

IF you ran the project you would most likely find that the Art or Text is SCALED in Length as well as Width... A common Pilot Error.

AL

mtylerfl
05-19-2013, 01:11 PM
Hello all, Finally got my new machine up and running. Everything has been pretty good so far but I'm having one small issue:

When I insert a new board and perform a measurement, it is nearly perfect. In this case, a brand new piece of MDF that is 8" by 15.5". The length is dead on and the width measures at 8.018" which I thought was pretty good and doesn't require recalibration.

I then ran a measurement with a bigger board, 10 by 36" and it provided similar accuracy.

Back to the original test board, re-measurement looks good again. Go to start project, and when it measures at the start, it comes up with 8.443"! So it wants to center on width or insert a new board. If I select center on width, it is making my text letters way smaller than intended.

Any help would be appreciated. I don't understand how the machine is coming up with different measurements for the same exact workpiece, especially when leaving it in place and not removing it between measurements.

This is 3/4" MDF that I cut on my table saw which is pretty well calibrated.

Thanks in advance!

Welcome!

It may be just a simple "pilot error" situation.

15.5" minus 7" = 8.5" available space to carve upon when staying under the rollers.

DO NOT ALLOW SCALING - ever! If your layout is done at 15.5" "fake" board and you stay under rollers, then your board will need to be at least 7" LONGER than your layout...in this case it would need to be at least 22.5" long.

You may be in a "loop" of choosing stay under rollers and a "faulty" layout strategy. Please post your MPC so we can see how you laid it out and whether you will say YES or NO to Stay Under Rollers depending upon your layout. More to the story, but let's leave it at that until we see your MPC file.

fwharris
05-19-2013, 01:15 PM
Please read the following tips n tricks newsletter on scaling issues.


http://www.carvewright.com/assets/tips/CarveWrightTips_and_Tricks_Mar09.pdf

You did not mention what your "design board" measurement were. Is the the same size as your actual board?

How did you answer the prompt at the beginning? Stay under the rollers "yes" or "no".

bergerud
05-19-2013, 01:20 PM
It looks like there maybe some confusion here. Is the 8.443 width or the length?

mtylerfl
05-19-2013, 01:22 PM
It looks like there maybe some confusion here. Is the 8.443 width or the length?

I'm guessing the length. In any case, several of us are fairly confident it's a layout/board size issue. Simple to correct once we have the details...and MPC to look at...

DCHeels
05-19-2013, 01:26 PM
Wow, thanks for the quick replies!

I tried answering yes and no to staying under the rollers. If I say no, the measurement is off even more so.

I guess I misunderstood the 7" rule for the length of the board. I thought it meant that the board iteslf just had to be over 7 but now I see that it means it needs to be at least 7" longer. But why would that throw off the width measurement? Or is that not really my problem at all?

I will try another test with a longer board to see what it does.

Meanwhile, I have more reading to do. Been reading since Friday afternoon so I thought I was ready. I found the software pretty easy to start out with but I will have to learn all the tips and tricks.

Also, when I go to upload the .mpc, my computer thinks they are windows media files?

Thanks again. I'm here to learn and I really appreciate you taking time to help me.

mtylerfl
05-19-2013, 01:29 PM
...

Also, when I go to upload the .mpc, my computer thinks they are windows media files?

...

I don't know why that would prevent you from uploading an mpc file. But, here's a tip...rename the file extension to .txt and we'll change the extension to mpc after you upload it.

DCHeels
05-19-2013, 01:36 PM
Wow, several more replies while I was typing!

Anyway, that tips and tricks is exactly what's happening to me I think.

Under board settings, I have L=15.5 and W=8" and I had made my workpiece that same exact size.

Let me try the file as is:

mtylerfl
05-19-2013, 01:50 PM
Wow, several more replies while I was typing!

Anyway, that tips and tricks is exactly what's happening to me I think.

Under board settings, I have L=15.5 and W=8" and I had made my workpiece that same exact size.

Let me try the file as is:

OK, here is one way of laying out this example. (It's the same way I layout all the Projects of the Month.)

The word POST is centered on a 8" x 12" FAKE board in the software. Your REAL board will have to be at least 8" wide x 19" long for this to work and stay under the rollers at all times. This means you will select EITHER Yes or NO (does not make any difference because the board will be long enough to stay under the rollers no matter which answer you select) and select "Center" for positioning when prompted.

I cut my board lengths a "tad" longer than necessary...only about 1/8" longer...just for insurance. Also, I often design my layout at a slightly less width dimension than the real board. I almost did that for your example...i.e., change the width to slightly less than 8"...again for insurance and it wouldn't make any difference for this simple project.

In any case, you may receive a Scaling prompt...but as long as your board is spot-on 8" wide (or make your layout slightly smaller in wdith or your real board wider) and at least 19 1/8" long, you will have the option to "Keep Original Size". Again, never ever, nope not ever, allow scaling.

mtylerfl
05-19-2013, 01:56 PM
NOTE: I do not have the "Semiramis" font, so it displays on my computer as a generic sans-serif font. Hopefully, the modification I made to the layout board length still allows the font to fit properly within the 12" "fake board" layout length. If not, just make your fake board longer as necessary, then make SURE you cut your REAL board a tad over 7" longer than that!

Oh, one more thing to be aware of...when you upload this modified version, you may get a "scary" Auto Jig warning...just click IGNORE...do not allow auto-jigging...your board will be big enough it won't cause any problems at all (if you follow my directions, that is).

DCHeels
05-19-2013, 02:16 PM
Ok, that makes sense. I think what was throwing me off is that my design and my workpiece were 8" x 15.5" but I wasn't paying attention to the fact that when it CW is starting the project it is measuring the cutting area and it was close enough to my 8" that I assumed that's what it meant. At any rate, I'm off to try a new test piece that is long enough for the 7"rule.

I will be using a lot of quarter sawn white oak so I want to avoid as much waste as possible. Should I consider a sled to compensate for the 7" rule?

I know I still have a lot to learn but I'm looking forward to making the most of my new CW! Thanks again!!!

mtylerfl
05-19-2013, 02:27 PM
...Should I consider a sled to compensate for the 7" rule?...



Yes, you should. But first, get the basic principles down and comfortable...then move on to sleds to save material and money.

As you can see, we are all eager to help. We went through the same things you are right now...it's not a difficult machine to learn to use...just different from anything else you(and we) probably have ever used before adding the "miracle" CarveWright machine to our workshops. You are going to have a blast!

DCHeels
05-19-2013, 03:55 PM
Well, that worked much better! I scaled down my board and ran a new test piece which turned out with the text the way I wanted it. Luckily, I found a QSWO board to use that wouldn't cause too much waste. I'll post a picture of the final project soon.

Thanks again for all of the help. I'm sure I'll be back!

mtylerfl
05-19-2013, 05:17 PM
Happy day! Looking forward to seeing this, and future projects from you.

Digitalwoodshop
05-19-2013, 09:25 PM
Well now that we have the 7 inch rule of wood down.... Something to consider learning is to skip using Center on Board and learn to use Place on END... It can be a much more FrugAL way to use wood...

On the right side of Designer you draw a 4 inch block for a on screen measuring block. Then you place the artwork on the board to the LEFT of the 4 inch block. If you imagine the Brass Roller and Keypad are at the TOP of your Designer Screen it will make sense.

I leave my physical board long and sometimes place a 3.5 inch cut off Block on the end with TAPE.... See some Examples of how I use this trick with the cut off blocks taped AND use Place on END or Corner... A BONUS is that the Board only MEASURES ONCE... Not TWICE like Center on Board... Over the life of the machine.... Think of all the SERVO time you save....

On some projects I flip the board end for end for a 2nd project. I cut the Clocks off the LONG Board as I make them and tape the block back on. I use 3.5 inch board but 4 inches in Designer for a Fresh Edge...

AL

jpshogs
05-20-2013, 11:09 AM
I think I am having a simular problem. Everything was going fine for my first few projects then all of sudden the carver started making everthing really small. I used the shell for example on the drawing it takes up the whole board but when it actually carves its like 1" X 1" big.

Digitalwoodshop
05-20-2013, 11:47 AM
It's that 7 inch rule of wood thing again... IF you put a board in the machine the Exact Length Physically AS you Designer Board then tell the computer to Please Stay Under the Rollers.... It will say OK... BUT I am going to take that 7 inches that I need to stay under the rollers from that SHORT Board you installed... I will then carve the project in the area that is left after I take 7 inches... In your case the carving was 1 x 1 inch.... I am guessing your physical board length was 8 inches without even seeing a .mpc.

Happens to everyone....

AL

jpshogs
05-20-2013, 12:18 PM
no I know that rule its a 6X9 board but its cut to 13"

mtylerfl
05-20-2013, 12:29 PM
no I know that rule its a 6X9 board but its cut to 13"

Hi,

The only possible way your carvings can come out smaller than you designed is if you allowed scaling during project setup at the machine.

Perhaps the following article will help explain this in a little more detail. I hope you find it helpful...

ISSUE 18 March 2009 – Scaling and How to Avoid It! (http://www.carvewright.com/assets/tips/CarveWrightTips_and_Tricks_Mar09.pdf)

mtylerfl
05-20-2013, 12:38 PM
jpshogs,

Apologies. I meant to also invite you to upload an MPC here (one that you have had trouble with the carvings coming out too small). We can take a look at the MPC and then let you know if there are any layout issues that need to be corrected and let you know exactly what board size will be required to prevent the scaling problem.

jpshogs
05-20-2013, 01:58 PM
Thanks I think that will help!!

DCHeels
05-20-2013, 02:26 PM
I highly recommend that tips and tricks article for understanding the scaling issue.

Digital, I think I see what you are saying about the spacer board and placing on end. That would probably save me some material and as you said, save a lot of servo time. Do you ever having any trouble with the tape or the machine seeing the tape? Is there an article or further tips on how to do this? Thanks!

Digitalwoodshop
05-21-2013, 03:38 PM
I highly recommend that tips and tricks article for understanding the scaling issue.

Digital, I think I see what you are saying about the spacer board and placing on end. That would probably save me some material and as you said, save a lot of servo time. Do you ever having any trouble with the tape or the machine seeing the tape? Is there an article or further tips on how to do this? Thanks!

I have not had a problem with the machine seeing the tape... Remember if I have this right... The Computer only pays attention to the board sensor for length when it knows it moved out from under the roller by about 3 inches and the board edge in near...


I keep a 3/8 dowel hanging on the machine cart. When I use a Taped on the END 3.5 inch board I stick the dowel down the Flex Opening and hold the taped board joint SNUG to the Brass ROLLER as it measures the first time, as sometimes it raises ever so slightly at the tape joint.

Yes, the taped on piece does save wood... I DO have a large pile of blanks.... Cut from the end of the board in the beginning... I use them to make Xmas Ornaments and small black bears on a Sled with SIDES to fit 3 boards at a time.

AL