Going NUTS with software

[interloper]

Ok. I struggled to make the top part of this trunion (not seen here). And finally got the center point of the arc to stay put where I wanted it, and they turned out ok. But this piece is driving me nuts. Why can't we get the center points of the radius to snap to grid? Is that normal? I've also tried "attaching" the radius center point, but it does nothing. I've also had to try attaching all vertices of the straight lines on the left so they wouldn't resize when getting the arc points to connect and resizing it's radius. Now I can't get them un-attached to move the whole piece around (I have to use the snap grid spacing for just about every component). The Remove Attach vertex button does nothing! (found it in custom toolbar items, not on by default) I'm about to give up..
At some point I noticed that I could snap the center point of 2 arc center points together, but can't reproduce this. As well, I'm getting software crashes like crazy.
Any help would be much appreciated
62317
Before you tell me I should get the DXF importer, know that I recently bought the STL by accident and can't get a refund. Waiting for sale supposedly before end of this month... That adds to my bag of nuts :evil:

[eelamb]

Maybe someone will convert this for you. It should be what you are looking for. Best I could do without have a few more measurements

[bergerud]

This is my attempt. I do not think some of your dimensions are possible. I used the trim feature to trim the sides to the right lengths to match the arcs by trimming to circles. The easiest way to draw arc, I think, is to draw line segments and then convert to arcs. I hope this helps.

[bergerud]

Here is eelamb's converted.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Just a side trip on something like this.... You can overlap Shapes as a shallow carve region to make your shape... Then Outline the outside and make it a cut path. Delete the shapes...

AL

[spalted]

Could you import a thin slice of your .stl then outline it in designer and delete the original pattern. Leaving just the vector outline.

[mtylerfl]

Could you import a thin slice of your .stl then outline it in designer and delete the original pattern. Leaving just the vector outline.

Yes, you can.

EDIT: I was pretty sure I showed this simple technique in a Tips & Tricks I wrote awhile back. I found it on page 4 of the following tips issue. (The primary topic was regarding Cut Path settings for thin stock, but in the process, I showed placing a pattern on the board, outlining it using the Outline Tool, then deleting the pattern to leave just the outline.)

http://www.carvewright.com/assets/tips/CarveWrightTips_and_Tricks_Sept08.pdf

[bergerud]

Just a side trip on something like this.... You can overlap Shapes as a shallow carve region to make your shape... Then Outline the outside and make it a cut path. Delete the shapes...

AL

That is a great idea Al. I think you have pointed that out before and I had forgotten. This one would be a bit of a challenge though.

[eelamb]

Thanks Bergerud for the conversion. You are right though, some of the dimensions were not right. As well as some were missing completely.

[interloper]

Oh shoot. I swore I subscribed to the thread. Nice responses! Thanks everyone. I will look these over.
Mucho thank you

[interloper]

Yes you folks were right. I did notice they were improperly labeled on some of the dimensions. I realized this when I could never ever get the arc to line up. Going back to sketchup I used measure tape to confirm. I will tell the author of this drawing. This shape only requires the top arc to be accurate to 7cm radius. The rest is ok to deviate a bit. I see that I also failed to inform the dimensions were metric -darn it. I usually have that enabled in my sketchup but it keeps turning off and didn't notice. When I get off of work I will have a look at what I have again.
Thank you all

Edit:
Just FYI, this is for a bandsaw tilting table top. Making a bandsaw as per plans purchased from the internet. If anyone wishes to pursue this venture, I (will) have the carvewright layouts for the pieces that should be cut on this machine (with a great thanks to you folks, of course). It's not a terribly difficult project. Anyone want to join me on this one? :D
I'll withhold author unless asked

[eelamb]

OK here it is in CM (Will show up as inches in designer unless you have units changed in designer.)

[bergerud]

Here is the dxf converted. The 7cm radius arc does not appear to really be a 7cm arc. I wonder why?

[eelamb]

After thinking about it, true it will not be right. 7" does not convert to 7cm on resizing. I resized the length from inches to metric, letting the rest follow, so the radius would not convert properly. It would have to be redrawn using metric.

[eelamb]

OK one more try. I removed the arc, redrew my reference lines and redid the arc. Radius should measured out at 7.0cm If bergerud will convert it and maybe look at it to see if he agrees.

[SteveNelson46]

Eddie

This is my attempt

[bergerud]

Here it is converted. It is still not an arc. Something must not scale properly in the conversion.

[bergerud]

Eddie

This is my attempt

The dimensions on the original drawing are not correct. Not possible. The one dimension which interloper said is important is the 7cm radius arc. I was waiting for his corrections before giving it another attempt.

[bergerud]

Looks like this is the bandsaw:

http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/plans/index.html

[interloper]

Finally. Here's sketchup configured to not show ~4.5cm when needing accurate measurements. That was annoying to say the least.
Here is the very corrected. I will try my hand at it as well. I mean.. I like a challenge but lets keep the geometry in this world. AMIRITE?
62352
We were all thrown off by that. I better go back and look at my other pieces ! :shock:
--I believe that may possibly be thee one Berg

[interloper]

So I'm back here at this measurement constraint where I can't remove it. You can see it hidden behind one of the lines. I tried query select, but can't get it. I need to move the whole model to use snapping. This is back in the nutbag

62353

[bergerud]

Just click the right mouse button on it and choose to "Remove Attachment".

[interloper]

I know, but it's behind another measurement and I can't get to it.

[TerryT]

Are you zoomed in all the way?

[interloper]

haha yes. I shared the file. See if you can unrestrict the movement of the whole :)

Edit:
Oh my gawd! nevermind.. For now..



Ok. When is the dxf sale ?

[bergerud]

I know, but it's behind another measurement and I can't get to it.

You must have too much stuff selected. Click on one object at a time.

[bergerud]

I am not so sure that the DXF importer is the best way to do this kind of thing. I think it is better if you can draw it in Designer. It is easier to edit later. The imports seem to have way more points than are needed. Now, I wonder also about distortion when importing.

I wonder about the numbers in your drawing. The only exact numbers you have are the 6 and the 7. Surely, since this fits with other parts, there should be other exact numbers. For example, the position of the radii centers. No word from the author?

[spalted]

When you use the dxf importer it connects the lines and reduces the point/polyline count doesn't it?

[eelamb]

That last one was my fault, I believe dxf did it right, I did not

[interloper]

Right.. So. I've disappeared it seems..
Friday, Windows update caused BSOD and crashed my computer. Restored to two weeks ago and lost everything since. All these parts I've been working on are gone as well. (only had 1 on card)
I guess it could have been worse.

And what I've discovered is the author seems to be making this with Pi. I sent him this image with the figures containing decimal point 9 spaces over (and full), and no response. I'll just have to make the part these attach to and adjust it myself.
One thing I'd like to do is, since these are 1.5inches thick, I'd like to take my .7" thick oak and make three of these (attached) with a type of tongue and groove (.2"). This way they sandwich together three-dimensionally and don't have to worry about them not glueing together perfectly, nor much sanding afterwards. The middle piece would have to be done on both sides though. Would this be accurate?
I'd love to take the shape and shrink down to 65% of original for the groove (and facet all sharp inside corners!), but dowel-like protruding cylindricals will probably suffice. Is that understandable?

I'm still recovering things from my loss, I just wanted to send something back here, as this is where I left off on this
Thanks for reading, and thanks for your help

62394

[bergerud]

Do you have a larger version of this original image? I would like to be able to read the numbers.

http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/plans/trun_cradles.png

[interloper]

Good afternoon berg. Yes, I just posted a few minutes before you with it. See two posts down (as of now)
Thanks

[bergerud]

Yes, I saw your post with the decimals. I wondered it you had the original image from the plans.

[interloper]

Yes, I saw your post with the decimals. I wondered it you had the original image from the plans.
Yeah that's from the plans, straight from sketchup file from author. Or do you mean something else?

[bergerud]

The image I posted is different from yours. It has different numbers that I cannot read. (I thought those decimals were your numbers.) Is your band saw project the same one I linked to below?

[interloper]

It has more decimals on the latest because I turned those on to be more accurate in sketchup, as I slowly discovered his numbers were not whole at all (and the reason our numbers didn't line up in project designer) The latest I uploaded would be the most accurate.
It is the same as you found and linked :)

[bergerud]

OK, I get it now.

Why don't you just use the CW to drill dowel holes for the glue up?

[interloper]

Essentially that's what I'm going to do. But because I've got some extra thickness on each of the pieces I wanted to do something like this. Also, the main reason for doing this project is to get my feet wet with the carvewright. I figured I'd force myself to learn how to do as much as possible with it.
In this case I'd like to find the best sandwiching technique. Originally I thought about using the 60deg V bit and invert the pattern on each piece, but if that worked, the depths would have to be equal. I drew this up. They're just round cutouts on one side, and holes on the other is all. The "x" on outside boards also serve as planing the area to ensure the boards meet flush together, considering they may be slightly warped, etc.
Is this often practiced?

62399
Edit: Meant to make it a point to ask if the center piece would come out ok, needing to flip the board (I don't have a lot of flipping experience :)

[bergerud]

The dimensions still do not jive. Here is what I tried.

Avoid double sided designs when ever you can. Try and mill everything from one side of each piece. Inaccuracy in board measurement makes it difficult to line up the sides. I would get some 3/4" wood so only two pieces were needed and use the machine to accurately drill dowel holes.

[interloper]

I hear you. I'll do that with these since I need precision. But does flipping the board generally result in inaccuracy, or is it hit and miss ? Just want an understanding of the boundaries for this thing.
What about the one you drew didn't jive? I think it looks pretty good
(You drew a rectangle for the radius reference. Now why didn't I think of that..) :)
Thanks! I'm going to run a tester of this here soon

[bergerud]

The problem with double sided projects is that the board gets remeasured for the second side (front, the back is first) and it is a bit of hit and miss. Accuracy to within 1/32" may not happen.

Some of the numbers are not quite the same. It may not matter.

[interloper]

Oh shoot yours is in inches again. lol.
Let's see if it'll take conversion easily ;)

[interloper]

Great. Since I had to update the software on the card, I can't download the other project piece I had one there (the only copy remaining after computer crash). "Download Scan" is grayed out.
I'm back to square one. What a weekend...

[bergerud]

Oh shoot yours is in inches again. lol.
Let's see if it'll take conversion easily ;)

It was drawn in cm. You have to change to cm in preferences. Also make the snap grid 1 cm.

[interloper]

It was drawn in cm. You have to change to cm in preferences. Also make the snap grid 1 cm.
Cool, it took the scaling yellow arrow button this time :) I got it to within .001 inch of yours without having to change anything. Here goes nothing on .75" red oak.
Should I cut it in 3 passes (.25") with the 3/16" straight you think would be best? I don't think the 1/8" should take that much of a beating from oak, and the 3/8" seems like a lot of waste.
Just when I thought I was going to lay off for a few days haha. Thanks a million

Edit: Nevermind on the 3/8" bit. Looks like that's not an option for CutPath function

[interloper]

Nothing short of awesome. I'm going to make the rest. Oh and I had just received my first 3/16" straight bit and tried it here. That bit works great! I better keep a spare one of those on hand.
Thanks again Berg! I'll post some more pics when it's a bit more put together
62404

[bergerud]

That looks great. You were right about the inches. I do still not understand how that happened?? I fixed it but it looks I am little late! Good job.

[interloper]

I guess you can't pull an uploaded project off the card ?

[bergerud]

No, you can only delete it. The data on the card is project data compiled into machine language. Only the data needed to instruct the machine is uploaded to the card. Sorry, your original mpc is not on the card.

[interloper]

So..
I remade the top parts and carved the rest of these. I stood there for 1.5hours watching the last to pcs get cut until the last 50 seconds when I decided I needed to go to the little boys' room -knowing I had only a few seconds left and it should finish fine, Right?
WRONG
As I stand in front of the swirling drain I hear it from the next room, "BAM!" then the machine's motor starts up again for the last 2.2 seconds of carve, then finishes. OF COURSE!
Earlier, the new bit I got from drillman needed a collar, so I removed one off one of my romans to put on the 3/8 cutting. I tightened it as best as I could with a alan in and pliers around simultaneously. Evidently that wasn't good enough and the bit slipped out and down, gouging the last work piece (second carve try) and straight into the aluminum width clamp of the machine. It chipped the bit as well. I know... This is all about normal.

62429
Gouged piece on left. Going to use filler with hardener to fix. I'm not cutting another one of those.
--and I called this in last post, "I better have an extra one of these awesome bits on hand"

I'm going to bed.

[interloper]

I went to glue these together and noticed there was some deviation from one piece to the next on repeated cutouts. I think it was from the 3 passes I'm making. I'm betting there could be more accuracy if it was taken in one pass. Would it be ok to cut .75" red oak in one pass with the 3/8" cutting bit?
Too bad there's no speed control. Wouldn't that be a great feature over the multiple passes?

[lawrence]

No way I'd try to cut .75 thick oak in one pass with my machine...but I probably baby mine more than most. My guess is that even if the machine manages to cut without breaking (due to the larger bit), the heat build up and soon-to-follow dulling bit followed by more heat build up would be catastrophic. This is only a theory though and perhaps wiser and more experienced opinions will chime in differently.

Out of curiousity, this seems like the kind of project that is ideal to have the CW cut 1/4 templates out and then use bandsaw followed by a router with a bearing to follow the template... just another .03...

V/r
Lawrence

[interloper]

I did think about that, and it occurred to me that the important part of these pieces are on the radius of the trunion which is about 6-7 inches. In between that I thought I could lift the lid to pause cutting and cool off
Thanks
What does anyone else think?

How hard can it be to add Super Slow bit advance timing ? :idea:

[bergerud]

If you try single cuts, the accuracy could be worse. Besides the fire, the larger forces and wild vibrations lead to secondary slippage problems or stalls or....

One method of cutting out such parts it to just outline them by cutting 1/4" deep slots. Roughly cut out the parts with a band saw (for example) and then use the inside slot edge as a router bit bearing guide to clean up the rest.

Edit: slow does not work with these milling bits. They have to take a certain size "bite" or they just rub and burn.

[Dan-Woodman]

I tend to agree with burgerud .His method to create a bearing surface is good . Then use a straight cutter with a bearing on top or bottom to follow the bearing surface. I think this would be too much force on flex drive cable. If it was direct drive unit it would be different. 3/8" is a lot to hog out in Oak.

[lawrence]

now why didn't I remember that trick... heck I did something similar with my router bowl and just forgot.

Great tip!

Lawrence

[interloper]

I tend to agree with burgerud .His method to create a bearing surface is good . Then use a straight cutter with a bearing on top or bottom to follow the bearing surface. I think this would be too much force on flex drive cable. If it was direct drive unit it would be different. 3/8" is a lot to hog out in Oak.

Ahem, I actually said 3/4" of oak with the 3/8" bit. I currently do make .25" passes. Is even that too much? Maybe that's the problem, but I think it cuts good and clean (then again it's a new bit).
I'm afraid to cut mesquite on this thing now. I mean- I baby my machine too, even when it gouges itself like it's suicidal. I've had it for 6 or 7 years (since release) and now have 12 hours on it- but... --stop thinking what analogy you can make with that.
I know what I'll be making next!
An attachment for this cnc allowing for a bigger motor and direct drive (couldn't find light bulb icon. Guess one idea per thread is max :P)

You're absolutely right berg. Flush cut bits with a router is the way to go. I actually feel a little dumbfounded as to why that didn't occur to me. Faster and better results -I like. You only need a fraction of an inch for the bit's beaning to ride on.

I'm wheezing. This is just too much for me X) I'm going to go back and redo everything I've made haha.. maybe

[bergerud]

Actually, I used to use the flush router bit method all the time because I thought I should save the machine for things only it could do. Since I got a spare machine for parts, my attitude has changed. I now just use either the 1/8" or the 3/16" cutting bit with 1/4" depth per pass and let the machine do it all. I am not bothered much by the cut lines. Usually, I can barely see them.

On might also experiment with the "finish" pass method DickB brought up recently.

[lawrence]

I've carved mesquite quite a few times and it does VERY well...

I usually make .125 passes, but like I said, I'm pretty gentle (possibly too gentle)
It's not just with this machine though, I wouldn't hog that much out at once with a hand router either

Lawrence

[bergerud]

Take a look at this. The outline of the part is first cut in three passes with the 3/16 bit down to the tab height but at an offset of half a millimeter. Then the cut out is done at full depth in a single pass (also with the 3/16 cutting bit). (If you hide the cut out, you can see what the offset cut looks like.)

[interloper]

Ding!
You win Berg.
..You win
XD

[interloper]

Take a look at this. The outline of the part is first cut in three passes with the 3/16 bit down to the tab height but at an offset of half a millimeter. Then the cut out is done at full depth in a single pass (also with the 3/16 cutting bit). (If you hide the cut out, you can see what the offset cut looks like.)
Maybe too gentle. As berg says, you may not be giving the bit enough bite.
I guess I always feel that I'm focusing all of the friction on one part of the bit (the tip in this case) and is why I tend to think of alternate procedure.

Have you guys ever sharpened one of these bits? Any idea about how long they last? Also do you know how much MDF degrades the bit versus plywood or hardwood? What about the 1/8" versus the 3/8" as far as longevity. Should I start a new thread? I know we're deviating from OP a bit :)

[bergerud]

You keep saying 3/8. Do you mean 3/16? The 3/8 jointing bit is a whole different story. You are scaring people!

[interloper]

Haha yes, I stand corrected. 3/16"
Thanks

[interloper]

Ok back to topic of Going Nuts with Software.
Can someone reproduce this bug?:
In metric mode (restart project after changing for chages to take effect), create a circle and select the 3/16" bit for cutting a depth, select an offset of half the bit's diameter of 3/16 (-.238cm) --and see that you can't. The box is highlighted red. It's not a problem with the circle size I'm doing. I did this with different sized circles. I'm even able to use the cut out tool, and flip the cut without problem. Is this a bug?
Thanks!

Edit: Seems to fail on all bits on my machine. .199cm is max. It's not a metric/standard confusion either. So the figures aren't bugged with inches instead of cm. And it works ok in standard inches

Edit: Berg, what's that picture of yours? Is that a single sided object aka: mobius ribbon? Did you make that? :)

Edit: minor corrections

[bergerud]

Yes, that seems to be a bug. I used path offset and so did not notice it. The inset for a bit cannot exceed its diameter (programmed limit). In the metric case, it seems that the conversion to metric for the limit comparison is not done. For example, the limit (when it goes red) is when you get to the number 0.188. That is the limit number in inches for the 3/16 bit. If you change to the 1/8 bit the limit is 0.125. You found a bug. The limit numbers are not converted to metric.

Also, it is annoying that the field for max pass depth is still in inches. Attention Metallus!!

My avatar is a trefoil knot. It is a mobius strip and a knot. I made it out of rosewood with the CW. Search "trefoil knot"

Edit: I have sent a PM to LHR.

[aokweld101]

I did a carve last night and when it finished the cut out on two of the same pattern on one board one of the patterns had a very slight stair step on each of the passes the other one had a sufficient stair step of at least 1/16 per pass for each pass, I'm thinking my bit is getting dull. I saved the carve with alot of sanding though...my usual depth is .255 for 3 passes on .75 board.

[bergerud]

I did a carve last night and when it finished the cut out on two of the same pattern on one board one of the patterns had a very slight stair step on each of the passes the other one had a sufficient stair step of at least 1/16 per pass for each pass, I'm thinking my bit is getting dull. I saved the carve with alot of sanding though...my usual depth is .255 for 3 passes on .75 board.

Were you always under the rollers? Which direction was the stepping in? x or y?

[interloper]

This must have only been from a recent update right? I don't think it's always been like this.
For now, I'm adding the diameter of my bits to my circles, but other things might get tough like arcs. Hopefully we get that fixed soon
The max pass could have been bad. Good thing I haven't needed that yet.

@aokweld101
Yes, my trunions had that same effect but worse than 1/16" for the 3 passes. I could have made them with a bandsaw, but wanted them to be precise. So much for that. My bit was brand spanking new. Perhaps it's the chuck. Won't know until I dump funds on the Rock to find out..

@bergurd
Thanks for confirming that.
Exceptional work on the trefoil knot! I guess you could have saved some time using STL import, but I'm guessing you wanted an elite single piece. Amirite? :P
I wish I could come across exotics like Rosewood :( Exotics and hardwoods are so expensive -not like they don't grow on trees or anything :) Hey! Does that stuff grow wild where you live? hehe. Mesquite does for me (2345 Janka), and I could send you a nice slab. We should trade our native hardwoods! If it fits, it ships! :)
I'm guessing that ones up on your office shelf. :) And you gave it away instead of selling like others suggested. You're a true comrade here berg.

[bergerud]

I checked version 1.185 and it was the same.

[bergerud]

I wish I could come across exotics like Rosewood :( Exotics and hardwoods are so expensive -not like they don't grow on trees or anything :) Hey! Does that stuff grow wild where you live? hehe. Mesquite does for me (2345 Janka), and I could send you a nice slab. We should trade our native hardwoods! If it fits, it ships! :)
I'm guessing that ones up on your office shelf. :) And you gave it away instead of selling like others suggested. You're a true comrade here berg.

The only good hardwood that grows here is Garry Oak, Arbutus, Yew, and Maple. The Rosewood I have I bought from a guy who knew a guy who brought in a shipping container of Cambodian Rosewood years ago. I bought out all he had left.

[interloper]

Yew? Isn't that what they make bows out of? It's got springy qualities?
What the heck is Arbutus?
Garry oak is white oak?
Never played with Maple either. Hard maple?
We have so much Mesquite in S TX, to most it's considered a nuisance especially to ranchers/farmers. Mesquite can be a wood workers dream wood if it weren't for the knots and sap -which are to be considered character for this type. Check out this pic. This is one of the reasons I'm building my bandsaw (mesquite!)
If interested, I could find the most economical shipping method. I'm guessing that USPS fits/ships thing, but not sure. Let me know if so, and which grain direction and thickness (it'd be a chainsaw cut)
I've got a big log that's been aging for a year or two. Or this one in pic. Items are there for reference. And don't poke fun at my cut style. I now know the three main grain direction cuts. This was my first test piece trying out bandsaw, planar, and drum sander on mesquite. I've had this one for some time now, and using it to make the band saw tracking blocks due to it's hardness. I'll trade all (if) you want -assuming not truckloads or anything :) I'm a bit too crippled for that. We should start a wood trading thread :cool: Maybe someone with an Australian Buloke nuisance will chime in haha
62474

[aokweld101]

it done the stair step when doing a arc.

[bergerud]

Yew? Isn't that what they make bows out of? It's got springy qualities?
What the heck is Arbutus?
Garry oak is white oak?
Never played with Maple either. Hard maple?
We have so much Mesquite in S TX, to most it's considered a nuisance especially to ranchers/farmers. Mesquite can be a wood workers dream wood if it weren't for the knots and sap -which are to be considered character for this type. Check out this pic. This is one of the reasons I'm building my bandsaw (mesquite!)
If interested, I could find the most economical shipping method. I'm guessing that USPS fits/ships thing, but not sure. Let me know if so, and which grain direction and thickness (it'd be a chainsaw cut)
I've got a big log that's been aging for a year or two. Or this one in pic. Items are there for reference. And don't poke fun at my cut style. I now know the three main grain direction cuts. This was my first test piece trying out bandsaw, planar, and drum sander on mesquite. I've had this one for some time now, and using it to make the band saw tracking blocks due to it's hardness. I'll trade all (if) you want -assuming not truckloads or anything :) I'm a bit too crippled for that. We should start a wood trading thread :cool: Maybe someone with an Australian Buloke nuisance will chime in haha


I think it costs too much to send wood. I have a sawmill and the local wood for me is free. Yew was used for bows. It is slow growing with extremely fine grain. The Garry Oak is the hardest Oak and it, like the Arbutus, only grows here. The Arbutus drifted here from the orient I think. It is like very fine grain Maple. Our Maple is a weed which is poor and soft.

aokweld: stair stepping to the tune of 1/16" indicates some kind of slipping. That is why I asked the questions.

[aokweld101]

it was done while doing an arc and also doing the y motion from right to left I did'nt keep it under the rollors because I had plenty of material left on both ends.

[bergerud]

it was done while doing an arc and also doing the y motion from right to left I did'nt keep it under the rollors because I had plenty of material left on both ends.

If your board was always (physically) under the rollers at all times, I am stumped.

In my experience, coming out from under the rear roller can cause problems when the board has to push the roller back up. Sometimes there is some slipping of the board on the belts. Coming out from under the front roller is even worse because the brass roller data is ignored while the front roller is down. The tracking is handled only by the x servo encoder. Now there is also backlash problems in the x gears. Each time the board comes out and goes back under the front roller there is a shift. (Note that this is not a problem for carving where the board just moves in one direction.)

[interloper]

I had the exact same problem on those trunions, on the arcs. I also noticed while doing that work piece that one of the tracking belts (sandpaper style) was exerting towards one side too much. Good thing I took it apart to fix because it was eating into the aluminum on the bottom side of the one roller assy. I simply trimmed the belt with a util knife on a straight edge about 1/8" or less off the side. I've yet to try again because of those bugs. I'm going to restart my last project in Inches (grr) or draw up some knobs I wanted to make in the meantime. I'll find out if it was traveling because of the tracking belt

@b
Do you run band or circular saws at your mill?
And flat rate box is 11" x 8 1/2" x 5 1/2" for 11.95.

[bergerud]

My saw mill is a bandsaw. It is an old Woodmizer LT40 hydraulic. I have two partners who own it with me. We really have a lot of fun with it.

That shipping does not seem so bad, but, I am in Canada. I am sure it would cost a lot more than that for me to ship a block of wood to the States. I will ask next time I am at the post office.

Was your sand paper belt rolled under?

[aokweld101]

bergerud on the carve that I was doing when it stair stepped I had 6.5 inches left on either end, more than enough.

[bergerud]

bergerud on the carve that I was doing when it stair stepped I had 6.5 inches left on either end, more than enough.

Do you have a rolled under belt? How is the head pressure? Was the board too smooth underneath so it could slip? Was the board too rough underneath for the brass roller? There must be something amiss.

[interloper]

Oh Canada. I don't think USPS goes that way on the flat rate boxes hehe :o
Here is a pic of my piece. I forgot I had the negative from the cutout -I didn't sand that down.
Also, had you realized you can't center a triangle? It does not geometrically center properly. An Isosceles anyway

62482

[interloper]

Ugh. I thought I got everything repaired from that little mishap with the bit slipping out. I went to measure a board and realized I couldn't get the bit in the chuck. It's got a hernia. That night with the mishap I did have to work at getting the collar out with the wrench. It did not come easy. Any idea what this problem is? I thought I ask before I go oiling and tapping (and eventually hammering) hehe.
Tax time came too soon again :( 62483

[aokweld101]

the head pressure is at 83 pounds, I'm useing the rubber belts. The only thing that I can think of is a dull bit

[aokweld101]

I had a extra two rollers that I made at the right heigth to set on a 4'x8' table for long boards for support, I did see that it just hit the roller moving the board about a 1/32 up the roller. The board was 60" long. It didn't seem as it was a problem. but then again it might of put it in a bind on the rollers causeing it to slip, Im going to lower it a tad bit.

[interloper]

This prog is a knob, using a T-nut for an insert. Can someone tell me how to reduce the waste on the cut out of the knob grip shown in center? I'm thinking I may have to not use the cut out tool, but just make arcs and use the Select Bit function. Of course, I had to switch to SAE because of the cutout bugs for metric.
Feel free to use the knob :)
Thanks!

The grip should be good plywood, and the cylinder probably want to use hardwood or mdf (coated).
The cylinder outside is an oval to act as a key into the grip, which has a small inset. The T-nut negative is complete with even the cutout for the small inside facet of the T-nut head.
Nothing special, just a knob to match this project -and I haven't cut this out yet to test. My machine is dead at the moment with chuck problems

edit: included attached mpc

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[interloper]

Here's is a pic of the chuck I wrestled to get the collar out. It appears to be off center and stuck out. Can someone tell me the best way to correct this? The machine has 11 hours on it, but I am performing all of the 25 hour maintenance on it now.
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[bergerud]

The trim tool is very useful.

For the chuck, I think you need to oil and wiggle it loose. Up and down and twist.

[interloper]

Trim tool. OHH!! another 200 bucks for an essential tool!!?
wow. I keep thinking the break tool was closest for that. So I got the STL, need DXF and now vector suite. Don't forget rock chuck -and hope we don't break down again. How did I ever get into this..
Thanks for trimming
I got the chuck corrected. I'm noticing on the collar I stole from my V bit for the 3/16" bit (the one that fell off while running) slides easily through the collar before tightening the set screws. The 1/2" bits I have have a threaded collet to tighten. These don't. Is that normal?

[bergerud]

Trim tool. OHH!! another 200 bucks for an essential tool!!?
wow. I keep thinking the break tool was closest for that. So I got the STL, need DXF and now vector suite. Don't forget rock chuck -and hope we don't break down again. How did I ever get into this..
Thanks for trimming
I got the chuck corrected. I'm noticing on the collar I stole from my V bit for the 3/16" bit (the one that fell off while running) slides easily through the collar before tightening the set screws. The 1/2" bits I have have a threaded collet to tighten. These don't. Is that normal?

It could have been done without the trim tool.

By collar, I assume you mean a 1/4" QC adapter. I used to use blue loctite as well as the set screws on those things. Just heat with a propane torch when you want to remove the bit. (If you need more of those adapters, many forum members would be happy to send you a load.)

[interloper]

Yes QC adapter. The stock chuck.
But before the set screws it's ok that the bit slides freely in the adapter?
I ask because the other bit set I got they don't slide freely at all.

[bergerud]

I remember the 1/4 shanks fit snugly in the adapters. It was a nice fit. Important I think if the set screws are to hold it. Try the Loctite. It will fix the problem.

( I used Loctite as the only holding method for 1/8" shanks in my own adapters. I could not even pound them out without the heat.)

[interloper]

Loctite red just on the set screws or also on the shank in the loose fitting adapter?
Thanks berg. I hope you're enjoying your weekend, and hope I'm not dragging on my questions
I did get the full 25hr maintenance complete on machine and rails were dirtiest. I think it's 100% now and want to follow suit with the bit w/ adapters :cool:

[bergerud]

I used blue Loctite. It was good enough. And yes, to "glue" the shank into the adapter.

[interloper]

First one came out pretty good. The two pieces have a twist play of ~1/8". That may be only thing worth fixing. But some epoxy may fix that
With much thanks to you Mr. Berg. And machine ran very well with no hiccups. That always makes one happy -even if it's just a knob XD


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