Cut motor stopped in the middle of a project and it wont restart

[Guardm16]

The cut motor stopped in the middle of a project; I only have 40 hours on the machine and less than 25 on the cut motor. The error was something about an axis (sorry I did not write it down), so I cleaned and oiled everything again, because I had just done the 25 hour maintenance before my last project that turned out fine.

I tried to start the project again and the machine proceeded to go through the process of carving the project; only the cut motor was not running. All the axis were going through the motions, but the motor was silent.

When I test the cut motor in the options menu it say the cut motor is running, but the machine is doing nothing. If I lift the cover during this test the motor makes a slight "chunk" sound. It makes the sound again when I close the cover and press a key. I also check the sensor and the rpm counted up: 1,2,3 as I turned the bit.

Please help.

[ladjr]

Check to make sure the two wires to cut motor are plug in, they sometimes come loose.

[bergerud]

The reason you got a axis stall was because the motor stopped and the bit stopped cutting. It sounds to me like the problem is not the motor. Beside the fact that it is new, the jerks imply that it is actually working. I think the problem may be the motor control system. I could be a part on the small circuit board called the X termination board. The electronic motor switch is on that board.

If you are still under warranty, you should wait until Monday and talk to a tech at LHR.

If you are not under warranty and are prepared to dig into the machine a little, you could look at the X termination board for signs of burnt parts. To see it, you have to take the bottom cover off of the machine.

[Guardm16]

Thank you both for your replys. When you mention the wires, are you talking about the two wires at the back of the motor? I can see the connection on the front end where the cable attaches, that is connected, but in what I have been reading there are more wires at the back of the motor. Do I have to take the cover off to check those? I am still under warranty, would that void the warranty to take the cover off?

I will absolutely contact LHR tomorrow.

You have both given me some hope and kept me from having a terrible weekend.

Thank you

[Digitalwoodshop]

As far as what will void the Warranty? Don't have a clue on that.... Things change....


The fact that you hear the Thumping of the Cut Motor is Encouraging when you open or close the cover... That I believe is really related to the LEFT side clear cover safety switch telling the computer that you opened the cover. That is just a guess...

So lets talk about the Cut Motor.... The Cut Motor has 2 wires... A Black and a White Wire. On the bottom of the machine there is a X Termination board that also has a Black and a White Wire. The Black from both connect together. That leaves 2 White Wires that go through the Right Side Clear Cover Safety Switch. That switch has a black and a white wire, and the return power or white wire goes through the switch, it does not matter what wire. It would be worth TUGGING on the Push on Connectors from the motor and X Termination Board as it has been reported that the CRIMP on the connectors has been LOOSE and causing this very same problem.

Then there is the RIGHT side Safety Switch.. Checking it for function is always good.... And be sure the clear cover tang is actually pushing the switch in and the switch screws are not loose.

Then there is the Cut Motor... Sometimes the cut motor brushes stick.... Thumping the cut motor lightly with the back of a screwdriver can sometimes free up the brushes. That tells you that you will need to open the cut motor and clean the brush area.

Then there is the X Termination Board... You must have seen the other posts with pictures... The Broken C1 can cause this as can other problems like a BURNT or brown Resistor next to C1.

Then we have the big question.... Do you have Dust Collection? Do you have the Dust Collection Grounded as in do you have a ground wire from the machine frame to the dust collector grounding it all together. Without a Ground, a Static Electricity Charge can build up on the machine and it will look for a place to jump to GROUND.... Through the Cut Motor is a easy way... As the Static is Thousands of volts... Like a Spark Plug.... I have seen pictures of X Terminations boards with BLACK BURNT marks... I believe this is a RESULT of the Static Charge....

If you DO have Dust Collection what version do you have?

Good Luck,

AL

This is not my picture, It looks like Dust Collector Static Damage.

[Guardm16]

I checked the X Termination Board. Nothing look out of place and all the connections are tight.

I do have a Ringneck Blues dust collector and it is grounded.

The small circuit baourd on the top front of the cut motor is a little loose, the connections are tight, but the board itself is loose, would this cause an issue?

When I spin the bit by hand I can feel the motor turn with some slight resistance, it also makes a faint scraping sound. Should I check the brushes?

Thanks again.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Good you have the best Dust Collector and GREAT it is Grounded....

UN plug the machine and remove the bottom. Look at the X Termination Board for a broken C1 lead or BURNT parts like the other one posted here TODAY...

Let us know,

AL

[Guardm16]

I did that yesterday, no burnt marks, it was on a previous post, I called LHR, they asked me to check to motor connections on the bottom of the machine and they said if I pull up on the wires at the back of the cut motor, I can check a connection there as well, but I could not move any of the wires at the back of the cut motor. Do I need to take off the top cover for this?

[Guardm16]

I also rechecked C1, it is actually epoxied to the board. So, it is not loose. The more I work on it, the more I am convinced it is the cut motor itself. It is so hard to turn the cable inside the flex shaft (easier to turn it with the spindle) when I run the cut motor test, the motor makes a sound like it wants to turn, then the screen states the cut motor is running. I will call LHR again in the morning.

Thanks again

[gashawk]

Might check for dust in the right cover switch or just try getting it to click with something small. I wired around it and that ended all the chunking noises. However now with the lid up the cut motor will not run while the machine will.

[onetexasoldman]

I am having the same problem at 25hrs and 40 min. Was carving and stopped said to clean rails (no code) did that and it started to carve but motor wasn't going. Checked everything you have suggested. Wires back of motor, circuit board on bottom, check cover switch with meter, ran options test shows motor running but it's NOT! Blew motor out tapped on it with back of screwdriver. Motor turn fine by hand. I do have another machine with 600 hrs on it so this is not my first machine.

[fwharris]

I have a local user with the very same issue. Changed out the X termination board and got the very same results. Only thing noticeable was the connecter at the board for the wires going up to the cut motor. The white wire terminal in the plug was blackened. All circuits ohmed out good. We hot wired (extension cord) into the cut motor and it spun up just fine.

[onetexasoldman]

That new insert you make sure is great hardly any chips left after carving 4hrs

[fwharris]

That new insert you make sure is great hardly any chips left after carving 4hrs

Thanks Larry! Now if we can get the motor to run! ;)

[onetexasoldman]

OK after all said done, and talking to LHR this morning they wanted me to send in the motor so they could REBUILD it??? I replaced the motor with an old one I had after they told me that (didn't want to void the warranty) and it works now with the tests. This machine only has 25 hrs , I told them I didn't want a REBUILT motor in the new machine so they are sending me a new one? haha Thanks for all the help I learned some more about the machines.

[lynnfrwd]

Yes, we prefer to rebuild it, but if you want a new one (and we have a new one) you can pay the core charge, so that we get the old one back. Based on the warranty agreement, we do have the option to replace warranty parts with rebuilt parts.

[seathis]

I had the same thing happen the other day. Motor quit in the middle of a carve. Totally messed that piece up. So I got out the handy Dremel and sawed away more of the plastic lid to make sure it was closing down and tight and wasn't hitting on the dust collector. I had just taken the collector off to give the machine a good cleaning. Apparently when I put it back on it wasn't fitting just like it had before and was messing with the safety switches. That did the trick. Works great now.

[onetexasoldman]

I know LHR has the option to replace with rebuilt and sometimes the rebuilt parts are better but I just didn't have the time to wait seeing my other machine was down waiting for parts.

[TerryWinslow]

Same problem here.. Cut motor refuses to run.. Checked about everything I could think of.. Blew out switches on the clear cover, checked all connections, took the cut motor out and checked brushes. The one (top) looks fine, but I could not get the other cap to come off. I'm wondering if it melted and fused to the threads inside the cap.. The user tests shows everything working.. The cut motor tests indicates the cut motor is on. Also, the cut motor turns freely with the shaft, so it couldn't be seized up. It seems to be a common problem with the machine. I hope they can give us a clue on how to remedy this problem..

[henry1]

Same problem here.. Cut motor refuses to run.. Checked about everything I could think of.. Blew out switches on the clear cover, checked all connections, took the cut motor out and checked brushes. The one (top) looks fine, but I could not get the other cap to come off. I'm wondering if it melted and fused to the threads inside the cap.. The user tests shows everything working.. The cut motor tests indicates the cut motor is on. Also, the cut motor turns freely with the shaft, so it couldn't be seized up. It seems to be a common problem with the machine. I hope they can give us a clue on how to remedy this problem.. you might have the cut motor board problem ,,what type machine you have and do you have ct spindle

[TerryWinslow]

you might have the cut motor board problem ,,what type machine you have and do you have ct spindle

I have the Carvewright Version C and yes, I have the ct spindle.

[badbert]

That cap worries me. the gap created by the short leads, causes arcing and can overheat the brush holder. So yes the brush might be bad, and the cap melted together. How may hours on the cut motor?

[TerryWinslow]

That cap worries me. the gap created by the short leads, causes arcing and can overheat the brush holder. So yes the brush might be bad, and the cap melted together. How may hours on the cut motor?

37 hours running time on the cut motor... and thanks for replying...

[fwharris]

My WAG on the cap is that it is just very hard to loosen up. I've seen several that way. One because I stripped out the slot for the screw driver I had to use the dremil to cut a new slot in it.

[badbert]

Yep Gotta agree with Floyd, probably a stuck cap!

[TerryWinslow]

My WAG on the cap is that it is just very hard to loosen up. I've seen several that way. One because I stripped out the slot for the screw driver I had to use the dremil to cut a new slot in it.

Excellent idea!! And what did you find once you were able to get the cap off? Was the magnet burned up or wedged? I will use my dremil first thing in the morning so I can get it off... Thanks!

[TerryWinslow]

Yep Gotta agree with Floyd, probably a stuck cap!

Its stuck, that's for sure. Used the same screwdriver on the other side and it came off very easily, which makes me think something shorted out in there and fused it together. Either that or it was cross threaded from factory? I will find out tomorrow morning.

[fwharris]

Excellent idea!! And what did you find once you were able to get the cap off? Was the magnet burned up or wedged? I will use my dremil first thing in the morning so I can get it off... Thanks!

I was doing a normal 250 hour service so I was doing the brush change. All looked normal.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Early on I butchered a cap by using a thinner Screwdriver then was needed and SPLIT the cap making it harder to get out.... I only use a very WIDE Screwdriver now. And I quit trying to check or change the Cut Motor Brushes with the Motor still installed.. Life is too short to spend time frustrated with the lower cap... By Removing the Motor the lower cap is EASY Off and EASY in... PLUS I highly recommend opening the motor and removing the sawdust....

Considering there are Thousands and Thousands of machines.... Only a few with motor problems... I wonder if Dust sucked into the Cut Motor and past the Brushes can contribute to problems like this... Especially CORIAN DUST.... As in PLASTIC that MELTS inside the Motor on the Commutator.

See date on broken cap.... 8/8/2007.... I was a Carving Fool back then.... Blew Through my Warranty QUICK...

AL

[fwharris]

Well I believe I have found the problem with the local carvers cut motor not coming on. After swapping out the X termination board, cut motor cover switch, power supply, setting up an alternate wire harness to go from the X board directly to the cut motor and still no cut motor response or out put voltage of the X board I swapped out the controller box. My first test was with the volt meter showed voltage at the X board as soon as I hit the continue for the cut motor test function. I plugged in the cut motor wires to the X board the the cut motor was off and howling as normal.

One thing I did notice on the display screen as I was trouble shooting the problem was I would get an occasional display full of boxes or random boxes on the display.

[liblakelady]

I have the same problem with the cut motor and only have 6 hours on my machine (c version). I called and was told to send the motor back for rebuild. I will do that today. Does anyone have tips for removing the motor?

[lynnfrwd]

I have the same problem with the cut motor and only have 6 hours on my machine (c version). I called and was told to send the motor back for rebuild. I will do that today. Does anyone have tips for removing the motor?

The video for replacing the Cut Motor brushes shows you how to take it out and put it back in.

http://www.carvewright.com/support-page/maintenance/#replace_brushes


(http://www.carvewright.com/support-page/maintenance/#replace_brushes)

[liblakelady]

The video for replacing the Cut Motor brushes shows you how to take it out and put it back in.

http://www.carvewright.com/support-page/maintenance/#replace_brushes


(http://www.carvewright.com/support-page/maintenance/#replace_brushes)

Thanks for the link Lynn, I figured there had to be a video.

[ronboley]

This may be a stupid comment, but my cut motor quit running and had the exact same symptoms, bit truck moving like it's cutting but no cut motor running so it stopped with a z axis stall error when the bit hit a solid spot on the board and of course the bit was not turning/cutting so it stalled. My problem was the flex shaft had come loose (not completely loose) at the bit truck where it snaps in. I removed and cleaned it, reinstalled it into the truck and made sure the little spring clip that goes around the connection (and the ball bearing there) was rotated so as to keep the ball bearing engaged. No further problems....good luck!

[liblakelady]

This may be a stupid comment, but my cut motor quit running and had the exact same symptoms, bit truck moving like it's cutting but no cut motor running so it stopped with a z axis stall error when the bit hit a solid spot on the board and of course the bit was not turning/cutting so it stalled. My problem was the flex shaft had come loose (not completely loose) at the bit truck where it snaps in. I removed and cleaned it, reinstalled it into the truck and made sure the little spring clip that goes around the connection (and the ball bearing there) was rotated so as to keep the ball bearing engaged. No further problems....good luck!

I'm not sure there are any stupid questions or comments when it comes to these machines. I had terry T go over the machine a couple weeks ago when this first happened because I thought it was operator error. Turned out to be an intermittent cut motor issue. Glad you got yours working so easily... I should be so lucky.

Pulled the motor today and shipping it down to LHR.

[Guardm16]

OK, after talking to LHR and going over all the symptoms, then going home to do the tests they recommended, wait until the next morning to call them back with the results (three days of this) they suggested I send them the cut motor. I did, now a little over a week later, I have my rebuilt motor back, AND...nothing, the motor will still not come on.

I have checked:
termination board, both sides for any burn or lose connections- nothing
measured 110 voltage at the powers supply termination board and cover switch
tested right side cover switch for continuity both open and closed
tested sensor on cut motor to ensure RPM registers

Nothing is out of the ordinary.

Please help.
Thanks

[Guardm16]

I just put in a bypass of the right side cover switch, no change. I am almost deaf, but now I hear a faint high pitch ring when the machine says the cut motor is running, when I lift the cover (left side switch still installed) the sound stops. Does this help anyone?

[Digitalwoodshop]

Sounds like a bad Cut Motor again... Or a bad X Termination Board...

Sorry to hear you are having trouble...

AL

[liblakelady]

OK, after talking to LHR and going over all the symptoms, then going home to do the tests they recommended, wait until the next morning to call them back with the results (three days of this) they suggested I send them the cut motor. I did, now a little over a week later, I have my rebuilt motor back, AND...nothing, the motor will still not come on.

I have checked:
termination board, both sides for any burn or lose connections- nothing
measured 110 voltage at the powers supply termination board and cover switch
tested right side cover switch for continuity both open and closed
tested sensor on cut motor to ensure RPM registers

Nothing is out of the ordinary.

Please help.
Thanks

How many hours do you have on your motor? My motor is down at LHR right now to be rebuilt after 4 hours of use on a brand new machine. I'm scared I may be in for the same as you.

[fwharris]

I had a very similar problem with the cut motor not kicking in and through process of elimination I found that it was the controller/computer.

One thing you can test is to hook up a volt meter to the plug on the X board that goes up to the cut motor. You will need to make up a couple of wire leads to the plug on the board to make sure you do not short out across the two contacts.

I set the machine up to do the user test on the cut motor. Load up a board that will fit inside the machine while the machine is laying on it's side so you have access to the bottom. Hook up your test leads and volt meter and run the cut motor test. You should get 110 volts when it says the cut motor is running.

If you are not getting the 110 volts then it is either the X board or the computer.

[Guardm16]

I have 25 hours on the cut motor. Tonight I came home and pulled the motor out again. I put a 120v test light in, in place of the cut motor, when I turned on the machine with the cover closed the light came on. I also cut up a small extension cord and put alligator clips on the wires, I clipped them to the motor leads while it was out of the machine and plugged it in... nothing... Now I am no electrician, but I would have bet money that should have spun up. I am wondering if they even looked at my cut motor or just sent it back.

Sorry, but I am a little frustrated, I have several clients who are waiting for their products.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Remove the Cut Motor Brush Caps and be sure you have Brushes...

AL

[Guardm16]

LOL, very good, I did. In fact, I just opened up the motor, I would hoped that when LHR had it to "re-build" they would have cleaned it out, but there was wood dust, small bits of plastic and a light amount of dust from the brushes. Again makes me wonder if they even opened the motor up when they had it.

[Guardm16]

One more thing, when I sent the motor, it had a slight "catch" as I spun the fan blade with my finger, when I got it back, it still did it. Before I installed it, I shook a small piece of plastic out of it (about half the size of a grain of rice) and the motor spun free. Again making me doubt they ever looked at the motor.

[Guardm16]

Update, I got a phone call from LHR about this thread. They sent me a new cut motor and x termination board. Installed both and "We have liftoff." Many thanks to all your help with your suggestions here on the forum and thank you to LHR for your support. A special thanks to Connie at LHR who called me with the offer of help.

I can't wait to get back to work.

[lynnfrwd]

Note: I'm told that if there is a bad x-termination board & a dead cut motor....fixing just the cut motor, but installing with a bad x-term board will make the cut motor bad again. Knowing we didn't send a bad cut motor back, indicated that the x-term board must have been bad too.

***I just love a happy ending!***

Have a great weekend folks!

[liblakelady]

Note: I'm told that if there is a bad x-termination board & a dead cut motor....fixing just the cut motor, but installing with a bad x-term board will make the cut motor bad again. Knowing we didn't send a bad cut motor back, indicated that the x-term board must have been bad too.

***I just love a happy ending!***

Have a great weekend folks!

I am so happy to see LHR taking care of this issue. I have my motor in to you for rebuild after 4 hours of use on a new machine. I haven't heard anything from you but I am hopeful that my machine will work when I get the motor back. I plan to buy a few extras to ship back with the motor in anticipation of many projects to come.

[jbrunot01]

jeff brunot - marietta , Ga
my motor started slowing down then quit too. not sure what's going on.

I guess I'll check the brushes. where is this x-board located?
jeff

[Capt Bruce]

Good morning Jeff,
Sorry to hear you are having the same problem. To view the X-Termination Board you have to disconnect from power, flip the CW on it's side and remove the bottom metal panel (9 screws). it is located toward the cut motor side (left from keyboard side). Let's keep in touch as we diagnose our machines in case we're going to have to order spare/replacement parts and can save on some shipping costs. Is your warranty still in effect? Thanks