Victorian Tile

[Cavallo]

Kinda just stunned myself. This took literally ten minutes to throw together.

I made the basic wavy tile shape using Wolfie's Gradient Designer. I then took a square design from a clip art collection, and opened it in Photoshop. Taking the blurring advice to heart, I did a blur, but not just a standard one. I duplicated the layer, and blurred the duplicate a lot. I then set the blend mode for this new layer to "Darken." I then flattened the image, and blurred the whole thing once more about half the radius of the previous. I then imported both images into Designer, placed them on a board, and told them to additively mix. Here's the result, and the project file for anyone to use for any reason. Not sure when/if I'll actually carve the thing, so if anyone does, post some pix.

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This is some powerful mojo if you ask me. It may be old-hat to some of you, but to me it's a glittering new world.

[CNC Carver]

Cavallo you are definately getting the hange of this new world! Great work!!
Jeff

[lynnfrwd]

I opened it in Designer, because I could see a hint of the different heights. The photo doesn't do it justice. The Square Wave and your design is awesome.

Great job!

[Cavallo]

Can't really claim credit for the design. As I said, it's from some clip art here at work. All I did was combine things.

[b.sumner47]

Simply beautiful ! Thank You for sharing. Capt Barry

[badbert]

Cavallo, That is fantastic!

[Cavallo]

I was shocked at the result. The thing is, it was so quick to do.

[Dale]

I agree, you must see it in Designer to get the true view of this design. Awesome!!

[bjbethke]

Kinda just stunned myself. This took literally ten minutes to throw together.

I made the basic wavy tile shape using Wolfie's Gradient Designer. I then took a square design from a clip art collection, and opened it in Photoshop. Taking the blurring advice to heart, I did a blur, but not just a standard one. I duplicated the layer, and blurred the duplicate a lot. I then set the blend mode for this new layer to "Darken." I then flattened the image, and blurred the whole thing once more about half the radius of the previous. I then imported both images into Designer, placed them on a board, and told them to additively mix. Here's the result, and the project file for anyone to use for any reason. Not sure when/if I'll actually carve the thing, so if anyone does, post some pix.

61216 61217

This is some powerful mojo if you ask me. It may be old-hat to some of you, but to me it's a glittering new world.

I think your carving will have a lot of Chip Out, I changed a few things in the CW Designer, carving that deep and a neg image gives a lot of sharp edges, when the bit makes a "Climb cut" it will take that stuff off, every other "Y" cut is a climb cut. Flip things around and change the hieght on both PTN files. BJB, Thanks for the image, Great tile. I find Wolfie's Gradient Designer can do lots of great things. I would like to try the CW new programs, but I don't like to pay the extra expence. Can you send me a PDF on how you did that. BJB

[Cavallo]

Well, we're about to find out how it works. I couldn't resist. It's running right now in come clear pine. Mine, not your revision, though I do like it. I had thought about inverting the intricate part of the design, but I wasn't sure how the little bumps would work out. We shall see.

I'll see if I can put together a more detailed description of the procedure when I have some spare time. This week is pretty tight, though. I have a long weekend ahead and precious little time to prepare.

[Cavallo]

Also - the damned thing INSISTED on scaling again. I used a board 8" by 21", and doubled the tile lengthwise for a total of what should be 12". 12 + 7 should have been 19", but it STILL insisted on scaling to length. Rather than argue with the wretched creature I just let it go this time, but I have to get over this newb-hurdle of scaling things to hell.

[badbert]

Did it give you a third option? To ignore scaling?

[Cavallo]

Nope. I checked hopefully, but no such option was offered.

[eelamb]

Time to get back to the basics.
1) get the board you want. Lets say the board is 15.5x8x.75
2) in designer set up a new board of 7.5x7.5x.75
3) place the pattern on the designer board
4) upload to card
5) place board and card into cw, and turn it on.
6) select project you just designed and go through the normal steps to carve the board (answer no to stay under rollers). You do not have to carve the board, just testing the setup.

This process should give you a carving that does not ask for scaling, because the designer board is 8" shorter (3.5x2=7" I prefer 4x2=8"), and 0.5" greater in width.

Many make the the designer board the same size as the actual board, by adding the 3.5" to the designer board, but I prefer not to add this in designer. By making your actual board at least 3.5x2+.5= 7.5"( min, again I prefer 8"), and the width at least .5" greater than designer, you should have no problems.

My reason for the designer board the size I am designing, is for better layout. I do not have to worry about the extra lengths on each end. I mostly use a sled, thus eliminating the need for the extra length. See thread by Lawrence for a great sled construction.

[Cavallo]

If I'm understanding you correctly, then this is my eureka moment. It's not the size of the design that matters, it's the size of the virtual board in designer? If I had put my two 6x6 tiles side by side on a virtual board of 12x6, then I could have put a board of 20x6.5 in the machine, and all should have been well?

Whether or not this is correct, I will absolutely look into a sled. Thanks. Very helpful.

[badbert]

if i'm understanding you correctly, then this is my eureka moment. It's not the size of the design that matters, it's the size of the virtual board in designer? If i had put my two 6x6 tiles side by side on a virtual board of 12x6, then i could have put a board of 20x6.5 in the machine, and all should have been well? eureka!!! :)

[Cavallo]

Wow. Was I ever overthinking. Or perhaps designer was underthinking. I kinda expected that the software would be smart enough to crop down to include only the region to actually be carved. I've been such a fool. :)

[eelamb]

You have it now. Just remember if you measure a board to be exactly 7" greater than the designer board, and the same width. The CW may not get the same reading as you. Call it slipping, or machine repeatability, which ever you prefer or who you work for, you are asking for a scaling problem if the machine measures the board smaller than you measured the board. So play it on the safe side, make the actual board larger as stated in my other post. Also why I use the 4" instead of 3.5", it give me room to play and less frustrations, or redesign time.

One more note, be sure to use masking tape on the under side of the actual board where the brass roller is at. This does cut down on tracking, and measuring errors.

[eelamb]

Here is the thread on the sled I mentioned.
http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?21574-my-improved-sled/page2&highlight=sled

[Cavallo]

One more note, be sure to use masking tape on the under side of the actual board where the brass roller is at. This does cut down on tracking, and measuring errors.

Awesome info! I'm gonna need to start a notebook and keep it with the machine...

[badbert]

Eddie You are awesome! Lawrence's sled is by far the nicest I've used. I tried to improve on it. But ended up over-engineering and made it too heavy! The other nice thing about a sled. You can add strips of non-skid or sandpaper on the bottom to eliminate traction problems. Some smoother woods or pre-finished woods will have traction problems. Putting strips of masking tape on the bottom of the wood helps improve traction. Another reason I like to use a sled. I made my sled. Then I let the machine measure it. I created a pattern of the sled and use it as a template. When ever I am ready to carve I transfer the project to the sled template in the upper left corner. Then when the machine asks where. I choose place on end, and it only measures it once. Another trick. If you are doing Multiple copies of the same carve. I place a place a 1/6" deep 1/8" dot on the far right of the sled. When the project is carved. It moves the sled all the way to the right to carve that dot. Now I can change boards, without unloading the sled.

[bjbethke]

Nope. I checked hopefully, but no such option was offered.

Your CW unit should be asking about staying under the rollers, always say "NO" make sure your out feed tables are adjusted right, maybe a little tight so the board does not drop down, most of the time it may carve OK, if not you will only snap a bit!!!

[bjbethke]

Wow. Was I ever overthinking. Or perhaps designer was underthinking. I kinda expected that the software would be smart enough to crop down to include only the region to actually be carved. I've been such a fool. :)

It’s just a dumb machine; you need to obey its rules.

[Cavallo]

Your CW unit should be asking about staying under the rollers, always say "NO" make sure your out feed tables are adjusted right, maybe a little tight so the board does not drop down, most of the time it may carve OK, if not you will only snap a bit!!!

I tried that on my very first carve. It did not go well. A strip about 4-5mm wide was left uncarved but for an irregular gash in the middle of that strip. I concluded from this that I should answer "Yes" to this question. I'll give it another go.

[Cavallo]

And yes - the sled from the posted thread looks excellent. It's conceptually simple enough, but has anyone made shop-drawings for it?

[Cavallo]

So, here it is carved smaller than it ought to be. Yes, there is a lot of fuzz. To what degree is this because of 1) soft pine, 2) scaling, 3) the design's intricacy?

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[CNC Carver]

Cutting against the grain cause some of your fuzz. Also move in pine than a harder wood. Also not a smoth transition between levels. Note BJB post Chip Out/fuzz "I think your carving will have a lot of Chip Out, I changed a few things in the CW Designer, carving that deep and a neg image gives a lot of sharp edges, when the bit makes a "Climb cut" it will take that stuff off, every other "Y" cut is a climb cut. Flip things around and change the hieght on both PTN files. BJB"

[Cavallo]

Yep. I saw that, and I believed him. Still, I needed to see it for myself.

[Cavallo]

I wonder how it would carve in Corian?

[CNC Carver]

I think you would see less problems in Corian. And I also understand the I got to see it for meyself. I would also try carving BJB to have a visual of the pattern inversed.

[Cavallo]

Yep. I was thinking that might be highly instructive. Incidentally, the reason I had it seemingly reversed on my version of the tile is because I had envisioned eventually coating it with a solid color, then a translucent wash to simulate ceramic glaze. Seems this would be even more effective with Corian. Gonna have to get some.

[bjbethke]

I wonder how it would carve in Corian?

I think the cost would be very high, maybe you could make a clock out of it and break PAR.

[kcc2012]

Beautiful carve great job.

[RogerB]

Cavallo thanks for sharing.Look like a nice carve.