Fire! Almost..

[johnsonswamp]

I have around 3 hours time on this cutting bit before it got so dull it started smoking, all time was cutting spruce which is a fairly soft wood. I knew it wouldn't last much longer but was trying to get my last cut out done so I wouldn't be down a week with half a project done waiting on the new bit. Never trust a dull bit! lol

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a193/johnsonswamp/IMG_20130322_181617_zps8ae39806.jpg

Anyway, on to my question. I just put new cover switches on, when I raised the lid the cut motor stopped but the rollers didn't thus breaking the bit. It stopped like 1/2-1 second later, isn't it supposed to all stop at once and raise the bit? Mine has been disconnected for awhile so I don't remember how it was before.

[DickB]

One switch is connected directly yo the cut motor - as soon as it disengages, the motor will stop. The other is a logic switch. If it stuck momentarily or was a bit dirty or misaligned a bit, it might not stop the movement right away. Best practice is to stop using the stop button on the keypad.

[RogerB]

DickB soft wood has a lot of sap and your bit will have to be cleaned to remove the crap.Use a little oven cleaner on your bit it will clean it and it will last a lot longer.Also if the wood is not dry there will be more burning.

[fwharris]

That sure looked like you had it smoking good. Good that you did stop it when you did or your title would not have included almost!

When you raise the cover it will automatically kill the cutting motor (or should if the switch is working properly) because it it wired directly through the switch. The "close cover" switch though is wired into the computer system and when you raise the cover there is possibly a short delay for the computer to recognize the switch is open and then shut down the rest of the system. The delay might of happened since the system was possibly under a bit of a load from the bit burning problem.

Your bit sharpness problem could be a pitch build up and not sharpness issue. Spruce can be a bit pitchy and with your location being in Florida humidity could be a factor also.

[johnsonswamp]

That sure looked like you had it smoking good. Good that you did stop it when you did or your title would not have included almost!


oh yeah, I was watching it close ready to put out a fire if it got that bad, hoping it would last but it had other plans!

Thanks for the info guys, never thought about build up since they always 'looked' clean, will start cleaning them.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Joined June 2012.... How old is the machine? What Chuck...?

Did you say you DISCONNECTED the LEFT SIDE SWITCH?

"Mine has been disconnected for awhile so I don't remember how it was before. "

The Left side Switch tells the computer that you have opened the clear cover. And that tells the computer to Retract the bit and turn off the cut motor... BUT the Cut Motor is ALSO turned off by the Right Side cover Switch as this is the Safety Switch that keeps the Cut Motor from Starting when you have your fingers on the bit... And TRUST ME... The Cut Motor CAN come on by itself IF the machine is PLUGGED IN and the cover closed.... The C1 Capacitor Fault where it SNAPS off ONE SIDE on the X Termination Board HAS caused this on 3 of my 4 machines.... That is why it is important to NEVER bypass the Right Side Cut Motor Safety Switch... I helps prevent you from joining the 8 and 9 Digit Club. (Missing Fingers for anyone not getting it....) IF you bypassed the LEFT side Cover Switch then when you opened the Clear Cover the Computer NEVER knew it... The Right Side Cut Motor Safety GOT THE MEMO... Cover OPEN... STOP CUT MOTOR.... But the Computer is STILL TRYING to cut even with the Cut Motor OFF.... Hence Broken BIT.... $40.00+ Please and Shipping..... IF the Left switch if NOT bypassed.... Could be STICKING or could be DIRTY...... When you order the new Bit... Order the Switch too.... Easer than fussing with it and failure to fix it results in $40.00+ Please and Shipping AGAIN....


SO BURNT CUT PATH..... I was Frustrated with that problem TOO a few years ago 7/2008.... IT WAS A BAD QC and the Bit was FLOPPING Around inside the cut.... SEE the Picture with the BURNT BIT.... Notice what I MISSED back then.... BB Marks in the Bit Holder that told me that BIT was FLOPPING AROUND in the CUT and the SIDES of the BIT were getting SO HOT that it burned the BIT and Board....

This is a WILD AL Guess that you have a QC and it is BAD... Back when I took that picture we had just gotten a new release in Designer and I TOO Jumped on the Band Wagon of it must be the SOFTWARE..... A big NOT...... It was all of US using BAD QC's....

And remember.... A BAD QC you must replace the QC and ALL Bit Holders..... Use just 1 BAD FLOPPY BIT HOLDER with BB Marks will JACK HAMMER the QC to FAILURE.... Same with buying new Bit Holders and a BAD QC.... The BAD QC will KILL new Bit Holders in as little as one project....

SO.... It's all about the QC... With the Money you spend on a new QC and New Bit Holders... Get a ROCK or CT....

AL

LOOK at the RIGHT BURNT BIT..... NOTE the BB MARK in the BIT HOLDER.... Can we have a "DAaaa".

[johnsonswamp]

Both sensors are new, installed them just before the above cut. I guess my QC is worn out, now to decide if I want to go with the CT or shelve the machine.

[badbert]

There are other options. Some of the users here have adapted ER chucks to their carvewright. If you or someone you know can do some machining work for you. This might be the way to go.

[jaroot]

Don't shelve the machine. The CT is an easy swap and really not that expensive. It totally changes the machine.
Both sensors are new, installed them just before the above cut. I guess my QC is worn out, now to decide if I want to go with the CT or shelve the machine.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I agree... The CT or Rock or the ER... All turn the noisy QC machine into a quieter long lasting precision carving and cutting machine.... IF you need a Safety Net... I have some QC's and Bit Holders.... I can send them to you as a gift.... Then use the machine to make stuff to buy a CT.

Send me a PM or email. I can Ship on Tuesday... Many here have given GIFTS and I received one just this week from a member....

Just paying it forward....

AL

[johnsonswamp]

I agree... The CT or Rock or the ER... All turn the noisy QC machine into a quieter long lasting precision carving and cutting machine.... IF you need a Safety Net... I have some QC's and Bit Holders.... I can send them to you as a gift.... Then use the machine to make stuff to buy a CT.

Send me a PM or email. I can Ship on Tuesday... Many here have given GIFTS and I received one just this week from a member....

Just paying it forward....

AL
I appreciate the offer, but at the moment I think I'm going to go ahead and bite the bullet and get the CT if the upgrade is as good as everyone makes it out to be. Just really bites to have to upgrade this instead of getting a better bandsaw like I had planned, oh well it is what it is.

Will the CT reduce the clean up like this?
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a193/johnsonswamp/IMG_20130325_085752_zps3b98555e.jpg

[Bigtyme]

Some of the clean up does depend on the carving style chosen. I did a carve this weekend of a serving tray and used the "best" setting because it was still a 7 hour carve. I have a CT and I had some cleanup on part of the tray not as bad as the pic shown, Johsonswamp, but still had some work to do. I think an "optimal" setting would have helped a lot, but it would have added a lot of time to the carve.

[bergerud]

Will the CT reduce the clean up like this?
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a193/johnsonswamp/IMG_20130325_085752_zps3b98555e.jpg

Is that a cut out? Poor quality cut outs in the later versions of Designer is a programming problem. That is hopefully getting fixed in 1.187.

[johnsonswamp]

That is a cut out on optimal setting, has been like this for as long as I can remember. About 90% of my CW use is cut outs, it cuts faster and identical pieces better than I can with my cheap bandsaw. Which leads to my next question, would I be better off with the 3/16 cutting bit for what I do? It's all cutting out bigger items, chairs, frames, etc.
It also looks like I have to do an A907 upgrade to use a CT... It just keeps adding up..

[Bigtyme]

I am not sure that the 3/16" bit would do any better, but I am sure others with more experience will chime in. I prefer the CW to do the cut outs far more than with a band saw. I don't have a great bandsaw (14" Jet), but it does an ok job. I think the CW does a great job and I use a cheap ryobi oscillating spindle sander to do final clean up. It works great with the different spindle sizes and cleans up cut outs very well and very quickly...

[fwharris]

I am not certain on this but I do not think the upload quality settings has anything to do with the cut out operations. It is mainly for the raster (pattern) carving detail.

Bergerud is correct there is a known issue with the cut out function and is supposed to be addressed in the next update..

[Bigtyme]

Excellent point, Floyd on the upload versus cut out. I should have known that as well. Thanks for clarifying.

[Digitalwoodshop]

There may be a better mouse trap... I am a big supporter of letting the machine do the important stuff... And doing bulk work another way... When you are planning to do many cut outs of the same design or even letters.... I cut a pattern out of 1/4 inch hardboard or even plastic.... And use a router table and bearing bit or guide bushing... With the Quilt and Wine Racks I cut the Design and then the cut out with the router table.

You can see why I blew thought my Warranty Hours early in 2007..

AL

[johnsonswamp]

Called and priced everything $380/402 with the a907 upgrade.. Not going to happen, the machine just doesn't make enough money around here to justify it. So can anyone point me in the direction of the rock and bits? I found one website selling the chuck, but had zero info about bits, etc.

Digital, do you do the full cut with a pattern/flush trim bit or get it close with a band saw then flush it up?

[gashawk]

61202I recently broke a cutting bit, now knowing I never sit a cutting default. Why isn't there a "factory default"?

[DickB]

A default max depth pass would be nice. I almost always use .25. Sometimes I forget to set this.

Personally I prefer to use the 3/16" bit for cutouts when possible. It is of course stronger and gives me more peace of mind. It may allow fewer passes.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Called and priced everything $380/402 with the a907 upgrade.. Not going to happen, the machine just doesn't make enough money around here to justify it. So can anyone point me in the direction of the rock and bits? I found one website selling the chuck, but had zero info about bits, etc.

Digital, do you do the full cut with a pattern/flush trim bit or get it close with a band saw then flush it up?

With the Rock Chuck, you just remove the bit holders and use the bits.... It is a Good Product...

And with the 1/2 inch shank slight spiral bit it cut great without pre cutting close. So I just went for it..... When some sawdust built up on the table I cut into the pattern..... A little Bondo fixed it fast...

AL

[johnsonswamp]

With the Rock Chuck, you just remove the bit holders and use the bits.... It is a Good Product...

And with the 1/2 inch shank slight spiral bit it cut great without pre cutting close. So I just went for it..... When some sawdust built up on the table I cut into the pattern..... A little Bondo fixed it fast...

AL

Just ordered the rock chuck with 1/4-1/8 adapter and a bit, now the wait for it to get here. :)

I think I am going to do as you and start using the router table to do my cut outs, should be faster and cleaner.

[Digitalwoodshop]

GOOD JOB... I have cut PVC Board Letters on the machine a few times. It takes a long time and there is always the possibility of "SNAP" $40.00 Please... So my future PVC letters will be first to cut a 1/4 inch hardboard letter then double stick tape it to a PVC Board then rough cut with a saber saw then on a Router Table with a Bearing Bit. The Rohman Park letters I made and donated the first set and they cut the 2nd set from PVC board and a Bearing Bit I gave them.

To get the Old QC off.... I have in the past Broken the Square Drive Bit trying to get it off and on one truck I even stripped the square hole.... THE TRICK is apply HEAT to the Threads.... MANY have use a Torch.... But the BEST way is to use a SOLDERING IRON.... You hold the Soldering Iron up inside the QC to heat the Threads without damaging the Truck Lower Spindle Bearing or the CORRUGATED Spacer inside. Even Wally Mart sells the Cheap Soldering Irons....

Good Decision !!!!

AL

[johnsonswamp]

I'm looking forward to trying out the Chuck, hope it ships soon so I can get this project finished this weekend.

Good idea on the iron to heat it up, I have one and a good heat gun if needed so i 'hope' I don't have any trouble.

Can you link to the bit you use in your router? Or will a regular pattern bit with bearing work on wood without rough cutting?

[Digitalwoodshop]

I love the Shear Angle Bits. You can use a locking ring and ADD a Bearing on the bottom TOO....

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_flush.html

AL

[johnsonswamp]

Thank you everyone for all the help, looks like my Chuck will be here this weekend and I'll post how it all goes.

[liquidguitars]

would I be better off with the 3/16 cutting bit for what I do? It's all cutting out bigger items, chairs, frames, etc.

Now your getting the upgrade chuck, you will be better off with the 3/16" bit no question.