Weird carving sounds

[unitedcases]

Here lately I have noticed my machine seems to bog a bit while carving. It doesn't seem to matter the depth, type of wood or length of carve. I also noticed that when it first does it I notice a smell. Kind of a wire smell or burnt electric board smell. I took the motor apart and it seemed to have the normal dust in it. Nothing big at all. So my theory is the power supply going. But just this morning I wondered if the rpm sensor could be going. But with that theory I think the motor would spin in "second gear" the whole time. The motor sounds normal except for that bog from time to time. Any thoughts?

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[bergerud]

Maybe you should smell the x termination board. Look for burnt resistors? It controls the power to the motor. Since the motor is line voltage, I do not think the power supply would have anything to do with it. The power supply is for the 5 and 24 volts.

[unitedcases]

Good thoughts. So which one is the x board?

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[lynnfrwd]

http://store.carvewright.com/image.php?type=P&id=16994

[unitedcases]

Thanks for the pic. Fortunately this is one area that I haven't really had to miss much with. I think I know where that one is. I will give it a sniff test when I get home. I need more spare parts anyways.

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[Digitalwoodshop]

I would remove the bottom after un plugging it and with a CARD INSTALLED to protect the many little male pins that could collect dust chips.. And Air Blow the bottom of the unit out... I would check the Brushes on the motor too... And open and blow it out too.... Remember dust is sucked through the Cut Motor on the motor side of the fan... And dust collects inside the motor...

AL

[unitedcases]

The motor is good. I took that apart and cleaned that out. I will give the bottom a good thorough cleaning. I will admit I don't have the bottom off ever. I will definitely be adding that to my cycle.

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[unitedcases]

Ok. X board and everything underneath the machine looked brand new. However, I have my machine sitting on a 1.5 in high frame with adjustable rollers at each end. Directly under the machine was a ton of dust. I wonder if it couldn't breathe? So tonight I will fire it up again and se if that helped at all. Very weird. Thru all this the machine still runs. Just seems to bog whenever it wants to. I will report back later tonight with more if there us more to report.

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[unitedcases]

Update #2. Got a board in the machine. All startups and measurements were fine. When it went to carve the project this thing starting spinning at what I like to call "3rd gear". Before I couldn't even hit stop I got a check cut motor error. So I hit continue and it is carving fine. Very peculiar. No bogging and no funny wire smell yet. Anyone care to retort to that weirdness?

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[badbert]

I would disassemble that motor again. This time check the brushes, and their leads. Make sure the housing that holds the brushes hasn't melted or warped. Check the electrical wiring and all connections inside the motor for the brushes and field windings. If your brushes are at 1/3 or less replace them. This is exactly how my motor acted when the rotor went bad. Also if your machine is an A model, make sure the magnet is still secure for the speed sensor. My theory is that the tethered brushes prevent the springs and leads from damaging the rotor. But when they reach their limit, they are held away from the rotor, leaving an air gap. Much like a spark plug the electricity jumps the gap by creating a spark. This is the "Ozone" you are smelling. As the gap increases performance diminishes. And EMI increases. Eliminating the speed signal. This is what gives the cut motor error.

[unitedcases]

So brushes are 1/4 wore down. Luckily I was right on top of the machine as it was doing it again. The cut motor actually shut off but there was enough spin in the bit so I made it to the stop button in time. Seems like the cut motor is done. Over 1300 hrs on this machine. Don't really want to throw parts at it though. However I am going to fire it back up with new brushes to see if that helps.

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[unitedcases]

Changed the brushes and loaded te project. Put a bit in a when I loaded it no spin.

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[Digitalwoodshop]

Check the Crimp Connectors.. Motor has black and white wire. X Termination Board has Black and White Wire.... Black to BLACK. Then the 2 White Wires.... They GO through the Right Side Cut Motor Cover Safety Switch.... White to EITHER BLACK OR WHITE of the Switch then the OTHER to the White of the Motor... It is just in and out of the switch, either wire.

Next is a broken wire in the Cut Motor... I had one snap off on my 1000 Plus Hour Motor....

Next is the Brush hung up in the holder.... A Thump of a Screwdriver on the case can fix that.... Or open and inspect again....


Then it could be the C1 CAPACITOR on the X Termination Board... One side SNAPPED OFF.... The Q1 Transistor is the ON OFF Switch and the 6 pin Photo Couplers turn on the Transistor. Used to isolate the Computer from the 115 Volts AC for safety...

And with 1000 Plus Hours.... The Copper Commutator could be WORN.... See New and Worn...

AL


Pictures:

Nicked Wire, you might have sheared off a wire...?

OLD Magnet Holder... Just holds the magnet that tells the computer the motor speed... Will not prevent running.

New hard Plastic holder for Magnet.

X Termination Board snapped C1 Cap...

Note the DATES on the pictures.... The CCM or Check Cut Motor was a BIG Unknown deal back when the Magnet would fly off.... WE were all confused.... Hence the picture.... CCM Problem.... It was the first posting of "Hey we need that Magnet".....

Getting info from LHR was much more difficult in the Early Years... We did a lot of GUESSING...

[unitedcases]

Think I found the smell. This lead is burnt. I have no idea how to fix that or even why that happened.

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[fwharris]

Reading back I see you posted 1300 hours on the machine. My guess would be the cut motor is probably do for a replacement. According to the recommended maintenance schedule from CarveWright
http://www.carvewright.com/support-page/maintenance/ they show to replace @ 250 hours. That does seem a bit low but with your hours it just might be worn out...

[Digitalwoodshop]

What happens is that the Motor is made from Copper Wire that is coated with Lacquer to act as Insulation. Over the years the copper wires vibrate and rub against each other... Eventually SHORTING together... and what was once a 100 turn coil of wire is now a 20 turn coil and the increase in Current due to the Short causes the Wire to Burn.... Time for a new motor...

AS We all have Motors Aging into the 1000 hour mark..... WE may be seeing more SHOP FIRES..... That is why LHR Recommends Replacement of the Motor at ?? point.... It is a GOOD Practice and Highly Recommended....

Some GOOD Motor Videos on Youtube... Especially the "Growler" Video looking for Shorts between windings.... Being a old Navy Analog Computer Tech... I have had allot of Motor training including Servo Motors, Resolvers, Drive Motors, and Motor Generators... This picture from 1977 of ME is the MK 47 Analog Gun Fire Control Computer. The Computer Calculated the Aiming Point of the 5 inch Gun with a 12 mile range to put a bullet at the Future Position of the Aircraft or Ship to hit. All done with a Radar, Gyro, Direction and Speed of Travel Input and a Gun Output of Bearing, Elevation and Fuse Time... Splash..



AL

[unitedcases]

My initial hunch when this started was the motor. I was just really hoping that wasn't it. But...I feel very confident that it is now. Especially after I found that burnt lead. Hopefully I will get it quickly.

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[unitedcases]

Now would have been a good time to have a spare motor laying around.

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[liquidguitars]

I just lost one last week, but i had a extra one...

[chief2007]

I had the same thing happen a while back to me as well, lead burnt in the cut motor.

Since then I started pulling the motor at 500 hours and open it up to check the leads and clean it out.
By doing that I found, I have another motor showing the same signs and was able to catch it prior to it burning through and made the repair.

So far what I found to be the problem is the leads have been loose and arcing over time and then burn the connector.

[unitedcases]

I had the same thing happen a while back to me as well, lead burnt in the cut motor.

Since then I started pulling the motor at 500 hours and open it up to check the leads and clean it out.
By doing that I found, I have another motor showing the same signs and was able to catch it prior to it burning through and made the repair.

So far what I found to be the problem is the leads have been loose and arcing over time and then burn the connector.

Anyway to fix that?

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[unitedcases]

Well...new motor is in and appears to be running good. I plan on some overtime this weekend with it to catch up so we will see how this pans out. Thanks for all the help everyone.

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