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View Full Version : Upgraded Z-truck Spindle assy - several questions about re-assembly



Underdog
03-16-2013, 12:42 PM
I installed the new CarveTight Z-truck assembly the other day. It went ok, but I'm not sure I did everything right...

1) I cranked the head up to the top and it got stuck. Anything to watch out for when I use a rod in the lead screw to run it back down?

2) When I went to plug the connector back into Yaxis assy, I realized that the plug wasn't idiot proof and could be plugged in upside down. How do I tell which side should go up?
(As an aside, these two points should be addressed by LRH. The head should made so it can't get stuck, and any plugs should be configured so that they cannot be put on incorrectly.)

3) I didn't have the best instructions when adjusting the preload on the Z-truck bearings and may have gotten them too tight. Is this a possibility? The truck seemed pretty smooth running up and down...

Underdog
03-16-2013, 12:49 PM
These are the better instructions for installing the Z-truck assembly:
http://www.carvewright.com/assets/service/Service_instructions/CarveWright_service_replace_z-truck.pdf

This one, on installing the CarveTight, only gives you a pictorial, with very little instruction:
http://www.carvewright.com/assets/tips/CarveWrightTips_and_Tricks_Apr10.pdf

mtylerfl
03-16-2013, 12:59 PM
I installed the new CarveTight Z-truck assembly the other day. It went ok, but I'm not sure I did everything right...

1) I cranked the head up to the top and it got stuck. Anything to watch out for when I use a rod in the lead screw to run it back down?
No concerns, as I recall.


2) When I went to plug the connector back into Yaxis assy, I realized that the plug wasn't idiot proof and could be plugged in upside down. How do I tell which side should go up?
(As an aside, these two points should be addressed by LRH. The head should made so it can't get stuck, and any plugs should be configured so that they cannot be put on incorrectly.)?
Been awhile since I messed with the plug, but I don't remember the Y-cable being able to plug in upside down...I believe it is "keyed" to go in just one way. Put a wrap of tape around the top end of one of the post to help you remember not to crank it too high.

3) I didn't have the best instructions when adjusting the preload on the Z-truck bearings and may have gotten them too tight. Is this a possibility? The truck seemed pretty smooth running up and down...

If the truck moves smoothly, doesn't wobble and is aligned straight up-and-down, it sounds like you are good to go.

Underdog
03-16-2013, 07:31 PM
Apparently I got the connector plugged in correctly. The machine ran my first project. It wasn't any good because it scaled it incorrectly and ran too fast. But it was enough to show there aren't any major problems with the machine. And.. I got the upgrade belts and spindle on correctly.

Thanks for the help!

mtylerfl
03-16-2013, 08:18 PM
Apparently I got the connector plugged in correctly. The machine ran my first project. It wasn't any good because it scaled it incorrectly and ran too fast. But it was enough to show there aren't any major problems with the machine. And.. I got the upgrade belts and spindle on correctly.

Thanks for the help!

The machine will not scale unless the user allows it. Here is an article you may find helpful regarding scaling (and how to avoid it):

http://www.carvewright.com/assets/tips/CarveWrightTips_and_Tricks_Mar09.pdf

As far as "running too fast"...never heard of that...I don't think that's possible, but perhaps you can explain what happened? (perhaps you selected the Draft quality setting when uploading...the machine would run faster the lower the quality you choose.)

Underdog
03-16-2013, 10:26 PM
I see part of what happened. I made the project the same size as the board.

I dunno where I set the draft quality...

mtylerfl
03-16-2013, 11:42 PM
I see part of what happened. I made the project the same size as the board.

I dunno where I set the draft quality...

It's OK to make the project the size of the board, if that is your preference. Just leave about 1/2" margin at the top edge of the board free of any pattern or cuts, etc. Leave a little margin at the bottom edge of the board, as well (can be less than 1/2", but I do usually leave at least that, myself). If you remember that the ACTUAL board you place into the machine needs to be a "smidge" LONGER than 7" more than your FAKE board in your Designer software, that's fine. That is exactly how every Project of the Month is laid out and they work perfectly. (You can download Tips & Tricks articles that cover this in more detail and you can download the PDF instructions of any Project to see how this procedure is done, too.)

You really DO know where you set the Draft quality...you just missed it, but you HAVE seen it. Every time you upload a project to your memory card, you have a choice of 4 quality settings...Draft, Normal, Best and Optimal. I recommend choosing either Best or Optimal for great quality carvings. You will see the choices and you will see the estimated times INCREASE with the better quality setting you choose. Go ahead and upload a project to your memory card and pause when you have the upload window on your screen...you'll easily see where you choose quality settings before you commit to uploading.

Holler if you still need help with this. We're glad to assist you in any way we can.

Underdog
03-17-2013, 07:13 AM
Now I see where I set the draft quality to "normal". That's ok as this wasn't meant to be a work of art, just a test run. I was surprised at just how fast that bit was running though... I never even set my 3 flute 1/8 ballnose to run that fast when I'm using our 5x10 KOMO router. I usually run it at 200 ipm at 18000 RPM. Maybe I ought to run that speed up a tad...

I'd bet this bit was running closer to 400 ipm. It was popping up and down like a sewing machine...

As for making the actual board at least 7" longer than the digital board, I'd forgotten that I'd learned that when reading all the literature. I was excited that I got all the upgrades and maintenance done, and was ready to try it out... Next time though, I'll remember it.

mtylerfl
03-17-2013, 07:24 AM
I didn't know you already had experience with another CNC router. That's good - you have a head-start over most of us when we got our first CNC's (i.e., the CarveWright).

One of these days I need to take some time to estimate the speed at the various quality settings (for curiosity, if nothing else). I have a Bot and typically run that at 3 ips (180 ipm) for most projects - pretty close to what you are running your KOMO. The Bot (an Alpha model) is capable of running much faster for some tasks - up to around 10 ips (600 ipm), but I don't want to "push my luck"! In other words, I'm "chicken". ;)

Glad to hear you are finding your way around the CW menus and so on. Again, please post if you have any questions. Help is always available!