Cursive Name Cutout Help

[doublejz]

I'm new to this pattern creation portion. What I'm attempting to do is to make my daughter a cutout of her name to finish up the nursery before her arrival. I'm trying to make the cut of her name be all connected and in cursive. I've attached the project which I know isn't correct but the problem I'm having is if you just type Jacqueline in French Script MT the J isn't connected to the rest of the letters. When I move the J over to overlap with the a, things get weird.

I'm also going to be using 3/4" wood with the 1/16" ballnose. I set the depth to .75 within "select bit" so I would think it would be a cutout, yes?

Any help will be great, thanks!

60578

[Digitalwoodshop]

I didn't have time to mess with it... But 2 choices.. 1 is to type the J Separate and place it over the Whole typed name just to get the size then go back to the name and delete the J from the Spelling and make it a J and the rest of the name as 2 words. Then you can position the J to proper position.

OR you can draw a rectangle and place it as a connector between the J and the rest of the name as all one word and then outline that. Adjust the Rectangle Connector to size to make it work then remove it leaving just the outline:mrgreen:.

AL

[Rob Mulgrew]

There is a video on Ask Buds page that explains how to do text cut outs. http://www2.wcoil.com/~nharbison/cw-askbud%20downloads.htm. Scroll down to "Text Cutouts" There is alot of other good training videos there that can help us. I am still fairly new myself here. Lawrence also has instructional videos on this at http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?19023-Using-Coreldraw-and-DXF-Importer-to-create-cut-out-words/page2&highlight=sister Scroll down the the bottom of the page and you will see his post and the videos attached.

Rob

[badbert]

There is a video on Ask Buds page that explains how to do text cut outs. http://www2.wcoil.com/~nharbison/cw-askbud downloads.htm. Scroll down to "Text Cutouts" There is alot of other good training videos there that can help us. I am still fairly new myself here. Lawrence also has instructional videos on this at http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?19023-Using-Coreldraw-and-DXF-Importer-to-create-cut-out-words/page2&highlight=sister Scroll down the the bottom of the page and you will see his post and the videos attached.

Rob

Great post Rob! Keep it up! Good call for askbud!

[Rob Mulgrew]

Great post Rob! Keep it up! Good call for askbud!

Thank you! I am glad to be part of this forum. I have gotten so much help from here and believe it or not with me being new I have already got a bunch of private messages from others asking for help and because of what I have learned from others here I was able to help them out.

[bergerud]

I played with it a little. You can have a look and see if this is sort of what you want. I connected the J and converted it to be cut out with the 1/8 cutting bit.

[doublejz]

I played with it a little. You can have a look and see if this is sort of what you want. I connected the J and converted it to be cut out with the 1/8 cutting bit.

Thanks. After playing around with this it appears that cutting each letter out and gluing it to the shelf will look better. I already created the file in illustrator, traced it and exported it as a dxf file. However, with not having bought the DXF importer license I can't import and save it as a mpc. Could someone import the attached file and remove the box/outline around the name and save it as a mpc file? I'm not sure spending $200 is worth my first attempt of making a sign.

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[bergerud]

How is this?

[doublejz]

How is this?

Ran into an issue with the letters touching. I tried breaking it up in carvewright but things got ugly. Can you import this DXF and save it as a mpc again? Thanks a ton!!

60598

[doublejz]

Since I already have this thread open and its related. Can someone explain why the inside of the Q isn't able to be cut. The attached file was just outlined and nothing more but if you select the inside of the Q in the carving list, you'll see that Cut isn't an option.

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[bergerud]

Since I already have this thread open and its related. Can someone explain why the inside of the Q isn't able to be cut. The attached file was just outlined and nothing more but if you select the inside of the Q in the carving list, you'll see that Cut isn't an option.

60597

Here is the dxf converted. I also created cut outs to show you that this is the way. You are making the letters into carve regions and then outlining them. (The reason the inside of the Q does not work was explained by MT in another thread as the outline is not closed. Kind of a bug. If you shrink it down before outlining it might be closed.) Anyway, you do not need to do that. Just cut out the letters.

[SteveNelson46]

I offset the inside of the Q to the inside by .001" then created the path from the offset. You don't need manual tabs with the cutout tool unless you just want to join the letters together.

[doublejz]

Here is the dxf converted. I also created cut outs to show you that this is the way. You are making the letters into carve regions and then outlining them. (The reason the inside of the Q does not work was explained by MT in another thread as the outline is not closed. Kind of a bug. If you shrink it down before outlining it might be closed.) Anyway, you do not need to do that. Just cut out the letters.

I see, thanks! Hopefully I get the hang of this. My father inlaw has had a compucarve in his wood shop for years and has used it twice. I'm trying to get some projects created and get some hours on it soon. Thanks again.

[bergerud]

You should also note that for the cut outs, I restricted the depth of the passes to be 1/4". It will take a few passes to cut it all out but the risk of breaking the bit is reduced. Make sure the board is long enough to stay under the rollers during the whole operation (extra 3.5 inches on each end) or tracking may not stay accurate and, again, the bit could break.

[SteveNelson46]

I got a little confused on my last post. If you have the 3D tools you can even puff the letters a little. I did and tried to attach the .mpc but the file was to big.

[badbert]

I see, thanks! Hopefully I get the hang of this. My father inlaw has had a compucarve in his wood shop for years and has used it twice. I'm trying to get some projects created and get some hours on it soon. Thanks again.

Whoa! MIster LOL! Unless you want your next posts to be about broken bits... You might want to learn about some maintenance issues. And get real familiar with it. That machine has been sitting. It will need a serious cleaning and good lube job before you even turn it on. These things are a lot of work, and a lot of fun when they do work!

[doublejz]

Ok, so I tried the attached mpc on a piece of scrap plywood (yes I know.... plywood) just to see what it would look like. It did kick out some small pieces but I contribute that to the plywood as well as the small pattern with tiny "tabs" if you will.

60632

The part that confuses me is that it went through with the 1/16 ballnose and carved everything down 1/4" and then asked for the 1/8" cutting bit. After I swapped out the bit, it then went over everything again cutting through the board. Is there something I did wrong in the mpc? I don't see why it used the carving bit to achieve the same thing that the cutting but did.

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[bergerud]

It is because you have both a carve region and a cut path assigned to each of your paths. The 1/16 carving bit was carving out the inside of the paths and then the cutting bit was cutting along the paths. I think you want to remove all the carving and just do the cutting. The machine will not even ask for the carving bit if you remove all the carving. Under the view menu choose to toolbars and check carving list. You will see in the list what is assigned to each path.

[doublejz]

It is because you have both a carve region and a cut path assigned to each of your paths. The 1/16 carving bit was carving out the inside of the paths and then the cutting bit was cutting along the paths. I think you want to remove all the carving and just do the cutting. The machine will not even ask for the carving bit if you remove all the carving. Under the view menu choose to toolbars and check carving list. You will see in the list what is assigned to each path.

Ok. I think I figure it out and I believe I removed the carve region. Also, is there a way to do a cut through with the arcs on the bottom of the board? When I went to upload it, it said that I needed to do a manual or auto jig due to cutting the edge of the board (possible to break the bit). It wouldn't let me set it to a cut out so I set the bit to 1/8" straight and the depth to 3/4" so it would cut through it. Is there a better way to do this if possible?


60634

[bergerud]

The reason for the warning message is because the cut outs go to the ends of the board. This means that the board has to leave the brass board tracking roller to do the cutting on the lower left. This is dangerous because tracking is not as accurate. If the board slips a little on the belts, the machine will not know and the bit could get broken. You always want to stay under the rubber rollers and on the tracking roller. All you have to do is make the board longer or put it on top of another board (sled). I would also move the scalloped curve farther in to stay away from the edge of the board. You should go back to the cut out with tabs as oppossed to the bit assignment method.

[bergerud]

Make sure you post your final version before you cut it out. What you are attempting is a little tricky and the forum members my have some last minute suggestions.

[mtylerfl]

That warning message will pop up during upload as a matter of course depending how you design/layout your project.

For example, all of the Projects of the Month are designed/laid out in such a way that the design fills the entire layout board length. Because of this, the "warning" will always pop up because the software is assuming I am going to be using a board the same size as the design layout (which would be too short to stay under the rollers). In reality, this warning can safely be ignored as far as the POM files are concerned since I specify what the ACTUAL board dimensions are to be placed into the machine...in other words, the board dimensions will include the extra length to assure they stay under the pressure rollers at all times. You can download any of the POM instructions and you will notice I include a "blurb" regarding this scenario.

So, when designing your own projects, do as Dan mentions and be sure you place a board (or jigged board) into your machine sized in such a way that the project remains captive under the rollers during the entire project run. I wrote a couple Tips & Tricks articles that explain layout, board size, etc. in additional detail and include illustrations of board layout vs actual board placed into the machine, etc...

http://www.carvewright.com/assets/tips/CarveWright_Tips_and_Tricks_Dec07.pdf

http://www.carvewright.com/assets/tips/CarveWrightTips_and_Tricks_Mar09.pdf

Also, when designing your own projects (and if you receive the "warning"), before clicking "Ignore" think about your layout and whether you have REAL problems with the layout or if the pop-up is caused by an "assumed" problem. An example of a REAL problem would be creating a pocket or carve region that spans across the entire width of the board with no allowance for something the pressure rollers can rest upon along the top and bottom edges of the board as it feeds through the machine in the x-axis. A "cavity" such as described can allow the rollers to "drop" into the recess and mess up your day!

[doublejz]

Sounds good. I also setup tabs so the letters that it cuts out should remain in place while cutting (I think). Last night when I did my first test cut, I had to keep opening the cover and removing the pieces that were falling in which would get stuck hanging out of the board and between the rollers. I've added 2" on the width of the board which allows the scalloped curve to be 2" from the edge. I was trying to have to feed as little wood as possible (walnut isn't that cheap around here) but I understand the need to have the excess board for tracking purposes.

Here is what I have currently that I plan on running tonight.

60642

I plan on having a board 7" longer as described in the tips and tricks acticle provided in the previous post. From what I understand, aslong as the real board is 7" or longer then the one defined in designer, I can ignore any jig issues and choose no to scaling.

The goal here is to have this piece against the wall allowing the color of the wall to be the actual word. Something like this but with her name rather then the star and moon.

60637

[doublejz]

Ok, this test cut failed too but I'm close. The problem with this one was that the scalloped curve didn't cut the whole way through. I have the bit set to 1/8" straight and depth to .75". However, it doesn't cut at .75 and if I try to set the depth deeper it won't let me apply the changes. Is there a way to make the arc's a cut out rather then just a vertex with the bit tool settings applied to it?

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[bergerud]

You could make the virtual board thicker in Designer so that you can cut deeper.
OR
To make the scallop into a cut out, you would have to join all of your arcs together into one curve which goes from one end of the designer board to the other. With the whole scallop selected, move arc end points onto other arc end points and they will "weld". (Make sure snap to grid is off and it is useful to toggle non end points under the view menu.) When it is all one curve connecting one edge of the board to the other, the cut out button will light up.

[doublejz]

You could make the virtual board thicker in Designer so that you can cut deeper.
OR
To make the scallop into a cut out, you would have to join all of your arcs together into one curve which goes from one end of the designer board to the other. With the whole scallop selected, move arc end points onto other arc end points and they will "weld".

I have no clue what you mean here. Can you explain on how to do this a little more?

[doublejz]

Ok, well I guess I'll just use my previous project to cut my real board then plane it down on the back side until the scallop is through the board. :-/

[bergerud]

Sorry. It was late at night. If you make the board thickness in Designer to be 0.8 instead of 0.75 and make your cuts 0.8 then it will cut through. (The machine may ask about the board thickness before cutting and you answer project thickness.)

The other method of changing the path to a single curve cut path is the better way to do it but it takes some effort too learn all the tricks. I will do it for you if you want.

[doublejz]

Sorry. It was late at night. If you make the board thickness in Designer to be 0.8 instead of 0.75 and make your cuts 0.8 then it will cut through. (The machine may ask about the board thickness before cutting and you answer project thickness.)

The other method of changing the path to a single curve cut path is the better way to do it but it takes some effort too learn all the tricks. I will do it for you if you want.

If you want to do it that would be great. At a minimum, I'll be able to look at it to see what you are talking about.

[bergerud]

I made the scallops all one curve and made it a cut path. I moved it up a little. You may want to move it. If you do move it, the cut may disappear if the end points are not on or over the ends of the board. Good luck. I know, there is a lot to learn.

[doublejz]

I made the scallops all one curve and made it a cut path. I moved it up a little. You may want to move it. If you do move it, the cut may disappear if the end points are not on or over the ends of the board. Good luck. I know, there is a lot to learn.

Thanks. I still cannot figure out how you took the individual arcs and connected them all together to make one solid curve.

[bergerud]

Page 56 in the software manual.

http://www.carvewright.com/assets/service/Manuals/CarveWright_Software_Manual.pdf

[doublejz]

Just wanted to show my progress on this today.

60719

[badbert]

Excellent progress! And a beautiful project. She will cherish it forever.

[easybuilt]

That came out awesome!

[doublejz]

I made the scallops all one curve and made it a cut path. I moved it up a little. You may want to move it. If you do move it, the cut may disappear if the end points are not on or over the ends of the board. Good luck. I know, there is a lot to learn.

bergerud, do you remember what font this was that you/we went with? I would like to cut something else out very similar but I can't find the font we used before we setup the cut paths?

I tried to cheat and just take the letters from the old project but I was missing letters that I need to complete the name :-P

[lynnfrwd]

That looks like Stencil Font

[doublejz]

That looks like Stencil Font

I kind of thought that originally too. The top one is Stencil the bottom one was the previous project.

81596

[lynnfrwd]

There are 139 different free stencil font types on 1001fonts.com

[lynnfrwd]

I think I found it...http://www.dafont.com/pencil-stencil.font
Pencil Stencil.

[bergerud]

bergerud, do you remember what font this was that you/we went with? I would like to cut something else out very similar but I can't find the font we used before we setup the cut paths?

I tried to cheat and just take the letters from the old project but I was missing letters that I need to complete the name :-P


I do not think I used a font. I just went with the outlines you had.

[doublejz]

I think I found it...http://www.dafont.com/pencil-stencil.font
Pencil Stencil.

Looks like it was this one. I was able to duplicate her name and it looks identical. Thanks!