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bergerud
02-23-2013, 11:07 AM
Introduction

The CT Dust Shoe is a fairly simple dust collection system designed specifically for the Carvetight spindle system. The CT is higher than other spindle systems leaving about 1/2" between the bottom of the chuck travel and the top of the board. It is in this space where the Dust Shoe is designed to be. Other spindle systems can use the Dust Shoe but the only with the extra complication of a removable top window which allows the chuck to pass through the Shoe during the board and bit measurement routines.

The Shoe requires only a small shop vacuum and with a small cyclone and auto switch can make for a dust system which requires very little user attention. One can quickly get used to not dealing with carving dust.

The Dust Shoe works very well in normal carving. The cutting bit naturally throws the chips right at the vacuum intake of the Shoe. In other operations such as milling deep pockets or routing with the fancy bits where the chips fly in all directions, the Shoe is not quite as effective.

The Shoe bolts to the bottom of the y carriage using the screw holes of the board sensor. For this, it is better to use longer screws (1 cm 3m). The dust is removed from the Shoe through an elbow pipe which pivots using a small RC car ball bearing (R1212-2RS). A hose goes from this pipe, is strapped to the top cover, and exits though the handle on the right side of the machine. No permanent machine modifications are required.

The standard, swinging bit plate has to be replaced by a stationary one because the swing of the standard bit plate interferes with the Shoe. This results in a slight reduction of the maximum board width from 14.5 to 14 inches. A fringe benefit of this is that the bit plate is quiet and no longer fails to swing out. Replacing the bit plate does require removal of the right side cover of the machine and the locking plate.

The Shoe can be made out of hard wood or cast acrylic. If one does want to use cast acrylic, I still suggest you make your own prototype out of wood first. Machines are different and many of the parts are a challenge to to get right. Expect a few setbacks along the way.

The Shoe is designed to only require the 1/16 carving bit and the 1/8 cutting bit. These must be sharp and in the case of case acrylic, they should probably be new.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dniOJU6JBUk

bergerud
02-23-2013, 12:15 PM
I use carrier boards to carve all of the Shoe parts. The carriers can be cut out of any planed wood or MDF (3/4"). The carrier boards have 1/2" deep cavities cut into them to carry the pieces to be made. The 3 X 4 carrier is for the Shoe body. The 3 X 3 is for the bearing cap and the pipe. Simply cut them out using the center on board option.

It is important to be able to get the piece in and out of the carrier board while the carrier board remains in the machine, while at the same time, the carrier board has to hold the piece fast. Tape is probably not good enough. Screws which clamp the edges from the top would be good. Side screws from the right is what I used but one must be careful not to push the piece off center in the cavity. I make the piece a little wide and sand it to a close fit. A little tape on the side of the piece can make it snug if it is a little narrow.

The carrier board procedure is designed to minimize the errors involved in double sided carving. The carrier board stays clamped in the machine so that the board is only measured once. It is not important that your machine centers the carving on the carrier. As long as the same machine (with the same calibration) that cut out the cavity in the carrier is used, the carving should be centered on the piece. That is, if your machine is consistently off center, it should not matter. (This is not the case for double sided carving where the whole board is flipped. Before you carve a part, you can test this consistency. First, load a project which simply drills a 0.1" deep, 1/8" centered hole in the piece. If the hole is centered in the piece, you can, without removing the carrier, proceed to make the part knowing that it will be centered. If your machine is inconsistent, you may may have to use the alternate coordinate procedure which I outline later in this thread.) Also measure to make sure the cavities are really 1/2" deep.

The basic procedure is to carve the rear of the carve in the normal way by centering on the board. When the rear is done, one loads the front project mpc (the front and back are two separate project files) without releasing the carrier board and continues through the setup until the bit starts to do the board touch. At this point, press STOP. Choose the option 3) Jog. Use the arrow keys to move the board into an x position where you can flip the piece. You can move the carriage out of the way in the y direction by hand. After the piece is flipped, move back to a touch position and continue to carve the front. This procedure is laid out in more detail in the next post on the instructions to carve the shoe body.

bergerud
02-23-2013, 12:46 PM
Upload the top and bottom projects to the card. (The top is on the back side of the mpc but will carve as if one sided.) You will get auto jig warnings because the Designer boards are so small. Choose MANUAL jig. Choose best or optimal for wood or optimal for acrylic.

The shoe body is carved by first carving the top. With the piece secured in the 3 X 4 carrier and in the machine, simply load the top project and go through the procedure to do a centered carve.

Stay Under Rollers - press 1) YES or 2) NO
1) Keep Original Size? - press (1)
1) Center On Board - press (1)
Cut Board To size? - press 2) NO

Be ready for when the board touch starts ("finding surface" on the display), press STOP and choose 3)Jog. Use the arrow buttons to jog to where the bearing hole will be carved on the piece (right front of the piece). Press ENTER to do the touch. ( "Select Cut Through Depth (0.500)" message - press (1) ) Continue with the bit loads as instructed and carve the top.

After the top is carved, do not to release the board and do not try and remove the piece. Load the bottom project and continue through the centered carve procedure as above. The board will not be remeasured. Be ready for when the board touch starts, press STOP and choose 3)Jog. Use the x arrow buttons to move the piece into an accessible position between the rollers, then move the carriage out of the way by hand over by the swinging bit plate. Loosen the side screws and use two wood screws in the pull holes to lift out the piece, flip it, and re-tighten the side screws. Now use the arrow keys to take the bit back to a place on the carrier board near the piece to touch. Press ENTER to touch on the carrier board. (This especially important if your piece is less than 1/2" thick. This uses the depth of the carrier board cavity as the 1/2" reference instead if the actual thickness of the piece. There may be a little air carving if your piece is thin.) Continue with the bit loads as instructed and carve the bottom.

(The 1/16 cutting bit is only used to cut the shallow brush slot. If you do not have a 1/16 cutting bit, you can use the 1/16 carving bit instead.)

(When finished, check the front - back alignment by looking at the mounting holes from the bottom. The holes were drilled from the top and the counter sinks were milled from the bottom. If they are not lined up, you may have some trouble shooting to do or you may have to use the alternate procedure outlined later in this thread.)

bergerud
02-23-2013, 01:16 PM
Upload the bearing cap bottom and bearing cap top on optimal. The bearing cap is a carve similar to the body but you use the 3 X 3 carrier and the 1/8 cuttong bit is only used on the bottom. This time you carve the bottom first. Stop 3)Jog to the bearing hole (middle of piece). Follow the same procedure as the body, touch the second side (bearing top) on the carrier.


After cleaning up the edges of the cap and making sure the bearing fits, you have to glue it on. (If you are making it out of cast acylic, you need a solvent cement like Weld-on #16.) I glue it on with the bearing in place while holding the shoe vertical against a horizontal flat surface. After a few seconds, pull out the bearing and press a together little harder.

After the glue has set you will have to "port " the shoe. That is, hand carve the out port hole with a Dremel. Make it as big and as smooth as possible without going too far down into the brush slot. Stay away from the thin top edge of the cap where the window will slide under.

bergerud
02-23-2013, 01:50 PM
The bit plate is a single side cut out of material which is 1/4 inch thick. It really needs to be cut out of some strong material. It does not fit in the carrier boards and so you are on your own figure a way to cut it out.

One has to take off the right side cover (two 10mm bolts on the post tops and two screws on the bottom). Then the lockdown clamp arm has to be dropped down away from the bit plate (three Allen screws). Pop off a C clip and the old bit plate drops off. The new bit plate fits on the same pin but also fits snugly into the cavity in the casting. One may have to sand the edges of the bit plate to get it to fit all the way up. Then put on the washers and C clip that were on the old bit plate and put back the lockdown clamp arm.

The C machine bit plate has a hole for the touch. I think this is only required for the C machines. (Without the hole, a C machine will go into a load bit loop after finding the board too low.) I have not tried a bigger bit that will not fit in the hole. There is some room here for experimenting. The bit plate A-B mpc has no hole since I do not think they need it.

The bottom edge of the end of the bit plate (under the new touch hole) has to be rounded so that it does not catch on the shoe when the shoe slides under. (It is easier to round it by hand then to have the machine carve it in a double sided operation.) Also where the bit plate stops the carriage could be trimmed down if the bit does not touch in the middle of the bit plate hole.

bergerud
02-23-2013, 02:00 PM
The window is the top of the shoe and is the most important part to be transparent. It can be as simple as a plastic washer or a little fancy with a cup glued in the center.

Very simple cut out, use double sided tape to hold a 2X2 X1/16 inch piece on top of a board. (Stick the double sided tape to the protective plastic not the acrylic itself!) You may find your own way.

For the QC and the Rock, these windows have to be easily removable. I put a small screw in the shoe and a small notch in the window edge. The window slips under the bearing cap overhang and the notch slips past the screw. A little twist and the window is on. One could also just make it a press fit.

For the CT, one would not be removing the window very often. I also made a little insert to reduce the window hole to a minimum while still leaving space for the bit adapter to fit through. It is milled from 1/4 cast acrylic. (One could cut and paste it onto the bit plate mpc and mill it at the same time.)

Also there is a milled CT window with the cup built in. This one would have to be wet sanded and polished to be see through.

Which windows you want depend on how you use your machine.

bergerud
02-23-2013, 02:15 PM
Upload the center pull hole as well as the pipe bottom and top on optimal. After, the pull hole is drilled, the bottom is carved and then the top following exactly the same procedure as the Shoe body and the bearing cap. On the bottom, STOP 3) Jog, touch near the middle of the 3 X 3 piece and on the top, STOP 3) Jog, touch on the carrier.

(It is this carve which requires the most accuracy. After the pull hole is drilled, measure to see how well it is centered in the y direction on the piece. If it is not centered, there is no point in continuing. Either re-measure the carrier and try again or use the alternate coordinate procedure.)

The two halves of the pipe are carved from both sides with a thin layer left between the sides instead of tabs. The thin layer makes it easier to cut out and glue. It is important to touch on the piece for the first side and then touch on the carrier board for the second side. Some adjustment to the carving depth might also have to be made. Different machines may carve to different depths. You may, with trial and error, need to change a carving depth. The bottom is easier to alter.

(The following trick might save the carve: If the carve is too deep and is carving all the way through at the start of the second side, you can raise the head slightly with the crank until you get the thin layer. You have a little time to do this before the bit gets to the pipe. It is worth a try since the carve will otherwise be a loss.)

After carving it, cut out the pipe halves with a Dremel by cutting along the outside perimeter of the carve leaving a skirt around the pipe halves. Clean up the bearing end and, using a file on the mating surface, get the bearing to just fit over the end. Apply glue to the skirts and clamp together. Use the bearing as a clamp and rubber bands or string. After the glue dries, sand off the skirt (leave it a little proud) and clean up the ends. The bearing should be a press fit. One would like the bearing to be tighter on the pipe than in the Shoe so that the bearing can be easily removed for periodic maintenance.

(The pipe is delicate and using too much force to attach the hose could break it. Use a pair of long nose pliers and/or some heat to spread the hose before slipping it on. This, however, should be done later when fitting the Shoe and hose into the machine. The hose will probably need to be twisted to take advantage of its natural curve.)

bergerud
02-23-2013, 02:21 PM
Last but not least is the brush. It is very important to block the horizontal escape route for the chips. I use window seals that I got from the local glass shop. They are the same as some door brushes. There are two rows of bristles imbedded in a fiberglass like backing and sometimes they are called fin seals if they have a "fin" between the rows. You only need one row. I used the scissors in my Swiss army knife to carefully it out. A bit tedious. If you used the 1/16 cutting bit to cut out the slot in the shoe, you can press fit the brush in with a small watch screw driver. Just work your way around twice. If you used the carving bit, you will have to glue it in. If the bristles are too long, you may have to trim them. They should just be slightly longer than the gap to the wood.

bergerud
02-23-2013, 02:27 PM
The hose I use is Laguna PT 805 1/2 inch pond hose that I found at the local hardware store.

http://www.petsandponds.com/en/ponds.../p9612868.html (http://www.petsandponds.com/en/ponds-and-supplies/c83534/p9612868.html)

I was hoping the someone would find some better hose. There are a lot of hoses out there. Not so many 1/2 or 5/8 inch though. We ideally would like 5/8 ID clear, smooth bore, wire reinforced, antistatic, flexible hose. Some experimenting and product research is required here.

As to how to get the hose out of the machine, I have found a way out which does not require any machine modifications (see pictures). The hose goes down behind the right hand cover, has a loop and then goes up and out the hole under the handle. This is the method I recommend while you experiment with the Shoe. This is opposite to the way I have my hose and it has the disadvantage that the hose is longer and it is vertical at the Shoe when the carriage is to the left. This means that the bearing moves more during carving that the other way around. If you later decide you like the Shoe, you might want to make a hole somewhere. One could also get the hose out through the pluged (crank) hole above the handle if one puts in an elbow.

The hose is held to the top of the machine between the clear cover and the flex cable slot by either zap straps or tape. Different machines are different: some have little clearance between the flex and the slot side, and you may have to use tape. You have to experiment a little with the right place to attach the hose. The lengths should be as in the pictures. Move the carriage back and forth to find the best length.

bergerud
02-23-2013, 02:29 PM
The dust shoe is attached to the carriage using the board sensor screws holes. Crank the head all the way up. Remove the board sensor screws. While keeping the board sensor in place with a finger from behind, place the shoe over the board sensor and screw it on using 1 cm long, 3m screws. While tightening the screws, keep the board sensor pressed all the way forward in its cavity with you finger from behind.

The bearing should be a press fit onto the pipe and should always stay on the pipe. The pipe and bearing are more easily installed into the shoe when the carriage is toward the left and the hose is vertical. The bearing should be a snug fit into the shoe. If it is loose, use a small piece of masking tape to make it snug. Before taping the hose to the cover, twist the hose so there is no torque on the bearing and pipe. The hose should clear the z truck as the carriage moves back and forth. For now, just let the end of the hose go into the cavity behind the side cover.

The bit plate installation requires removal of the right side machine cover. Remove the two 10mm bolts from the top of the cover and the two small screws on the bottom and remove the cover. The locking bar which is just under the bit plate has to be dropped. Undo the three Allen bolts and lower the locking bar out of the way. Remove the clip from the bit plate pivot shaft and remove the bit plate spring and washers. Place the new bit plate over the pivot shaft and push it up into the cavity. The new bit plate should be a tight fit up into the casting cavity. Make sure it is pushed all the way up until it hits the top. Now move the carriage over to the bit plate to test how the shoe and the bit plate line up. Some trimming of parts may be required. Test to see where the bit touches the bit plate. You may want to remove some material from the bit plate where the carriage hits it to get the bit centered in the touch hole. When all looks lined up, put the original washer or two and clip back on the pivot shaft so the new bit plate is held up tight. Lift up the locking bar, hook it back on and put back the three Allen screws.

As the machine cover is replaced, one has to loop and feed the hose through the handle hole in the cover. The hose should come straight down, then forward and loop up to the handle hole.

A simple mini shop vacuum is all that is needed to run the dust shoe. (The larger, low vacuum high volume DC systems will not work.) One must make an adapter to connect the 1/2" hose to the vacuum.

bergerud
02-23-2013, 02:30 PM
The dust shoe operation is designed to be simple on a machine equipped with the Carvetight chuck if one uses only the standard bits (1/16, 1/8, 3/16 carving and cutting bits). The dust shoe does not interfere with chuck, adapters, or these standard bits and should be virtually trouble free.

In the case where one wants to use a decorative bit which has a diameter larger than the hole in the window, one will have to remove the window. In this case, the dust collecting effectiveness of the shoe will be significantly decreased. If a certain bit is used often, one might make a custom window for it.

As a further complication with the larger bits, the touch hole on the bit plate is too small and the bit will touch too high. In a mult-bit project, this could be bad. If, for example, a standard bit is used to touch the bit plate and to touch the board and then a larger bit is loaded and touches the bit plate too high, the larger bit will cut too high. This is an area for further development. A lower custom metal bit plate may be what we need. (I believe that the A ans B machines with the CT do not need the touch hole and so need not have this problem. A simple bit plate without the hole is all that is required.)

If the dust shoe is used with other types of chucks which come within 1/2 inch of the board surface (Rock and QC), one will have to remove the window during the bit loading and board measurement stages and replace the window during the carves and cutting. (It may be possible to block the z truck from going too low. Something you can experiment with.)

Warning: Some of us like to just let the machine measure the carving bit over and over instead of switching in all the right bits at the beginning of a multi-bit project. Then, when the machine measures the bits to be the wrong lengths later, we just press continue. This is ok as long as the bits later measure too short. If, however, the bit later measures too long, the machine gives a good hard second push on the bit plate. I have had this break a thinner acrylic bit plate.

The bearing on the pipe will get that fine dust in it. It is just a matter of time and the bearing will stiffen up. Until we can find a bearing with better seals, we will have to keep an eye on it. There is a cavity behind the bearing where dust may collect and get into the bearing. One might experiment with, say, a felt washer behind the bearing to block the dust.

bergerud
02-23-2013, 05:45 PM
Double sided carving small parts where accuracy is important can be frustrating on the CW. The CW does, in fact, carve and cut very accurately once it finds the board! The problem is that the board sensor never seems to measure the same board to be the same size twice. This variation in measurement makes it a bit of a crap shoot when we want 1/32 or better accuracy between the sides of a double sided carve. The trick of leaving the carrier board clamped in the machine and flipping only the work piece solves the x accuracy problem since the x does not change for the flipped piece. The y accuracy, however, depends on the consistency of the machine. If the machine is inconsistent, measuring the width of the carrier different than when it was made, the y of each side may not line up. The following procedure outlines a way to set up the carrier board and machine so that one can accurately and repeatedly carve with y centered on the piece. A simple centered hole project is run first to determine the coordinates of the center.

Before the project is carved, load a project that just drills a shallow 1/8 th hole in the center of a 3X3 piece using my carrier board.


When the question comes to 1) Center On Board choose instead to 2) Jog To Position
It will ask for the 1/16 carving bit (to jog with) but put in the 1/8 cutting bit instead.
Press STOP when it starts the bob to touch the board. You will get the option to 3) Jog.
Jog to the approximate center of x with the arrow keys (center with the half holes on the carrier) and write down the x center coordinate from the display. Accuracy in x is not crucial.
By hand move the carriage to the half hole in the carrier board on the keyboard side and push the bit into the half hole and up against the 3X3 piece. Write down the y coordinate on the display. (Call it a.)
By hand move the carriage to the half hole on the other side of the 3X3 and push the bit up against the piece. Write down the y coordinate. (Call it b.)
Calculate the y center (a+b)/2. You now have the x and y coordinates of the center of the 3X3 piece. (Independent of whether the cavity is cut in the center or whether the machine is calibrated!)
Now move the bit by hand or with the arrows to a place to touch and press enter.
After the touch you will be asked to Jog to project, choose 2) Center.
Instead of using the arrows, key in the x and y coordinates you have written down and calculated. (Careful: the first digit has to be pressed twice. Once just to change the mode. If you screw up, you can press STOP.)
Press enter and it will ask for the 1/8 cutting bit - just keep going and drill the hole.

Get out the calipers and check that the hole is really in the y center of the 3X3 piece. It better be. Now you are set set up to do accurately centered carves using those same x and y center coordinates with the Jog To Center option. These numbers will be good as long as the carrier board is in the machine. (Unless you abort a project whereas all will be lost!) The thing is that you have to be able to hold the piece in the carrier board and also be able to easily get it in and out of the cavity while in the machine. Screws or a clamp or something. This is also another job for the jog. You can use the jog to move the piece to an accessible x position. The carriage can always be moved out of the way in the y direction by hand. It does not matter when you flip the piece so start the second side project setup and then flip the piece later during the jog to touch step.

(Note that for a project which uses only the 1/8 cutting bit, one can find the coordinates as above and just continue the project. If the project starts with the carving bit, however, one will not get the chance in the above procedure to change bits before the carve. In this case, one has to run the simple hole project first.)

bergerud
03-10-2013, 01:41 PM
OK. I think I am finished the start of this thread. I have tried to lay out all of the instructions and files to make the dust shoe. (I will still be making corrections and improvements I am sure.) This is an interesting posting experiment in itself. To have all of the information up front with no other posts.

For the rest of this thread, I hope that members will now post questions, comments, and results relating to the dust shoe's creation, use, and improvement.

b.sumner47
03-10-2013, 10:27 PM
Thank You, for all your efforts and time.Very much apprecated.


Capt Barry

bjmwoodworker
01-11-2014, 12:08 PM
hi well I have been trying to carve your project but keep having a problem with the dustcap bottom .. I can carve the top ok but when I try to carve the bottom piece ...for some strange reason I keep getting a z-axis stall message and my only option is push stop button! I tried reuploading the mpc to the card and I still get the same result... apparently my designer 2.004 software is adding something to the upload process any thoughts? anyone else having this problem? any suggestions would be welcome!!

bergerud
01-11-2014, 12:59 PM
I cannot understand why you would be getting a z stall. The carve is quite shallow. When do you get the stall? Sharp bit? Cast acrylic? I do not think it has to do with 2.004.

bjmwoodworker
01-11-2014, 03:21 PM
well I dont understand either I tried to carve the mpc in hardwood and Corian I get the stall after it does bit find . btw is the bottom mpc really supposed to be .75 unlike the top which is .5 thick?

bergerud
01-11-2014, 03:41 PM
The top and the bottom are 1/2". The carrier board itself is 3/4". I think your stall might be a different problem. Try a simple carve on a scrap board and see if you still get the stall.

bjmwoodworker
01-11-2014, 06:44 PM
well I still think that the problem is with the mpc it carves the top of both versions just fine, but it doesnt carve the bottom of the dustcap version because it is showing .75 for board thickness instead of .5 as the other three mpc do. I am now confused which dust cap dust collector project to use. one is labelled Dustcap and one is labelled Dustshoe. Which one so you recommend that I use?

bergerud
01-11-2014, 07:02 PM
I am sorry, I thought you were carving the dust shoe since this is the thread for the dust shoe. The dust cap is a much more complicated project. The dust cap does not work with the Carvetight or the Rock chuck because they are too big to fit through it. I use the dust cap with ER spindles. I think you need to be carving the dust shoe.

You are right, the dust cap bottom is 3/4.

bjmwoodworker
01-11-2014, 07:09 PM
well in fact none of the two bottom mpc work for me I get a z-axis stall E06-0324 error. this occurs after the board has been turned over from doing the top carve which it does just fine and the bit find for the 1/8 cutting bit is done and then it asks for the 1/16 tapered bit and when you put it in ...it trys to do the bit find and fails when up on the bit plate with the error message mentioned above.

bjmwoodworker
01-11-2014, 07:11 PM
well thanks anyway guess this project is not doable for me thanks for your very prompt responses and have a great evening and I do have a c model with the carve tight bit holder anyway sorry for wasting so much of your time

bergerud
01-11-2014, 07:24 PM
Are you telling me that the carving bit rams into the bit plate and stalls? If that is your problem it may be not the project, it may Designer 2.004.

Edit: do you have a shorter carving bit that you could try?

bjmwoodworker
01-11-2014, 09:55 PM
hi again well I did find a shorter 1/16 tapered bit that I bought from another source and it works!!! now tell me what has CW done that their bits dont work anymore and yes I am telling you that the carving bit supplied by CW rams into the bit plate and stalls

bergerud
01-11-2014, 10:43 PM
Well, the bit touching routine was changed to be more efficient in 2.004 by moving quickly until it expects the bit to touch the bit plate. If the bit is longer than expected, it rams into the plate and stalls. People with Rock chucks have complained bitterly about the software change because they get the stall when they use CW bits in their Rock chucks. Yours is the second I have heard of a CW bit in a CT chuck having the stall. (The problem will be fixed in 2.005.)

I am a beta tester and I would like to understand what happened to you. Did the long CW carving bit work fine by itself on projects which used just the carving bit yet stall when used on projects that used both the cutting bit and the carving bit?

bjmwoodworker
01-12-2014, 11:55 AM
well I think that that is the case but let me do a couple of carves I seem to remember that the top carve is different from the bottom in just that way but let me check on it and get back to you on that

ok the error z axis stall only occurs when carving the dustshoe body bottom mpc. that uses both cutting and carving bits and the carving bit rams down on the bit plate which is causing the error message. Oddly enough though, the error message doesnt occur when carving the dustshoe body top mpc which also uses both cutting and carving bits and neither bit rams down on the bit plate. I have not experienced any z axis stall problems using the single carving bit to carve a project. What can I do to help solve the problem?

bjmwoodworker
01-12-2014, 03:11 PM
see my edit of previous message

dcj
01-30-2014, 04:00 PM
bergerud,
Would you consider making one of these for me (give me price and I will pay up front). I am not at this level of carving as yet and am considering
my options for dust collection.

Dave

bergerud
01-30-2014, 06:57 PM
bergerud,
Would you consider making one of these for me (give me price and I will pay up front). I am not at this level of carving as yet and am considering
my options for dust collection.

Dave

Welcome to the forum dcj. The dust shoe was only a prototype. I posted the files in this thread in case others wanted to experiment with it. It has some problems. It requires switching the bit plate and now the newer software can break the acrylic bit plate. It does not work so well with the new deep carving. For me, it is in the dust. I am busy trying other things including a different idea for a DC system. Maybe someone else on the forum might want help you with some of the parts. Sorry.

henry1
01-30-2014, 07:12 PM
bergerud,
Would you consider making one of these for me (give me price and I will pay up front). I am not at this level of carving as yet and am considering
my options for dust collection.

Dave
Were are you from in the usa or canada I am in canada I make them for now

gwizpro
01-31-2014, 08:55 AM
Henry , What would you charge for one.. plus shipping to PA.

henry1
01-31-2014, 09:59 AM
Henry , What would you charge for one.. plus shipping to PA.
I have no ideal what to charge it take about 3 hr to make and put together and the bearing

dcj
02-04-2014, 09:40 PM
Henry1,
Sorry did not get back to you, was out of town. I am in Reno, Nv.. If you come up with a price I would
be interested + shipping of course. Just upgraded my A machine to the C with the parts and a Carvetight
Spindle. Still waiting on my motor rebuild. When rebuild (quit easy) the dust in nooks and crannies is
unbelivable. The collection hoods available look quite combersome.
Dave