ER11 Adapter for the CT

[bergerud]

The CT chuck is nearly 1/2 inch higher than the other chucks. This extra space was what I used to slip the dust shoe between the chuck and the board. Well, I just found another use for the space: an ER11 adapter. I just made one out of an old ER11 spindle that I had laying around. It is very simple to make from a cheap Chinese ER11 collet extension (pictured in the background). The neat thing about it is that you clamp it onto a bit and then put it in the CT chuck. It is a variable size adapter. It will hold any size bit from 1/32 to 1/4. I have not had a chance to test it yet but I will this weekend on my friends C machine. I do not think it will run as true as a full ER spindle. But think of the possibilities!


EDIT: From later on in this thread (post 86). ER11M adapters made in China on ebay at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1pcs-1-2...item41756bc469 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1pcs-1-2-ER11-28L-Straight-collet-chuck-and-3pcs-ER11-collet-1-4-3-16and1-8-/281142871145?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item41756bc469)

[badbert]

Definitely pulling up a chair for this one!

[Sallen1215]

You have my undivided attention Dan

[henry1]

You got my attention also , will be watching

[Jeff_Birt]

I've been doing this for a few yeas now, glad to see others trying it. I modified a US made 1/2" shank collet chuck to work with the Quick Change chuck about four years ago. The run-out was so bad with the QC that it was not satisfactory. With the CT chuck it does work much better and it makes for a nice choice. I bought a few of cheap import collet chucks to give it a whirl and was not impressed with their quality. There are many levels to cheap import quality, sometimes you get a good part, sometimes not.

For folks wanting to make something like this my suggestion would be to start with a 1/2" collet chuck and cut it down to size, i.e. cut down the length. This way you will be certain that the tapered bore is exactly in-line with the shank, and both have been ground to specification. You are still stuck with the run-out inherent with the CT, about 0.0005" on mine, but it does let you use a wide range of bits.

[DickB]

Jeff, what's your source for US-made collet?

[Jeff_Birt]

The one I used was made by Craftsman Industries. You can find them at Enco and MSC Direct on sale in the $60 range at times. They like to charge about $100 when not on sale.

[bergerud]

The thing about this type of retro fit is that the accuracy with which original collet extension is made is irrelevant. I have bought many Chinese extensions and they are soft and usually not very true. It does not matter since the process can make it true. What I do is use a high quality US collet to attach the holder to a true nipple on the lathe. The result is determined by the nipple and collet and has little to do with how true the original holder was. So, why pay for accuracy when you are not going to use it? (The more expensive holders are, however, harder and that might be worth paying for. Maritool is a source of high quality holders and also check out Shars for collets.)

If I used the CT, I would make a whole pile of these things. One for each shank size I use.

[Jeff_Birt]

The problem is that when turning down the shank you can't ensure that your staying inline with the tapered bore of the adapter. It does not take much difference to create a problem. I think you have an excellent idea, but I think it will be easier for most folks to replicate by starting with a 1/2" shank collet chuck.

Many times the tapered bore of cheap adapters is also not great so the ER11 collet will never seat properly. We see this problem with the precision collets for hand held routers as well. A few times a year every manufacturer slips up and a handful of routers get out with a poorly ground bore. This takes you from a run-out of 0.0002" with a precision collet to 0.005" (or worse.)

If you watch the sales you can get the good quality adapters at the same price as the cheap imports. The downside to the Craftsman industries collet chucks is they do not have the wrench flats on the shank. You need a method of holding the shank in place while loosening/tightening the nut.

[DickB]

There was just another post referring to Shars: http://www.shars.com/products/view/273/ER11_12quot_ER_Collet_Holder_with_Straight_Shank Looks like it has a flat for a wrench.

For those of us without a lot of metal-working tools, any advice on how to cut the shank down to size?

[bergerud]

I think you have an excellent idea, but I think it will be easier for most folks to replicate by starting with a 1/2" shank collet chuck.

I see two problems with starting with a 1/2 inch shank. First is that you would have to buy an expensive holder because you need would need the accuracy. Second, the holder would be way too long. If you want to make an adapter which fits in like the CT press on adapter, you really have to turn a holder down. I even turned off some of the extra threads which the nut did not reach. The thing has to be compact.

I will see how much Maritool would charge to make these things. Maritool would make high quality, hardened works of art. He quoted me at $138 each for ER16 spindles back in the day. These adapters are much simpler. If they came in under $50, I think they would be worth it.

[Jeff_Birt]

I see two problems with starting with a 1/2 inch shank. First is that you would have to buy an expensive holder because you need would need the accuracy. Second, the holder would be way too long. If you want to make an adapter which fits in like the CT press on adapter, you really have to turn a holder down.

I'm not sure I follow you here. On mine I just turned down the tail end so it sit up in the recess on the CT. (the CT spindle necks down to around 3/8" up inside. That is not really needed though as it would be better to just cut it to length. Buy a stubby ER11 collet chuck with a 1/2" shank and cut off the tail end.

[Jeff_Birt]

Here is the one I have been using. It is a 1/2" shank stubby ER11 collet chuck. About 1.25" of the tail end was turned down so it fits all the way up in the CT chuck. This preserves the left hand thread set screw that is used to provide a 'preset' for the tool. The preset is not really needed though (on the CarveWright) so it could just be cut off.


60030

When I first tried this on the old QC chuck I looked into having some made up (made in USA) but the run-out from the QC made it not worth doing.

[bergerud]

My adapter fits right up until the nut hits the chuck. (Sorry, I have to go to class.)

[bergerud]

Here is the one I have been using. It is a 1/2" shank stubby ER11 collet chuck. About 1.25" of the tail end was turned down so it fits all the way up in the CT chuck. This preserves the left hand thread set screw that is used to provide a 'preset' for the tool. The preset is not really needed though (on the CarveWright) so it could just be cut off.
When I first tried this on the old QC chuck I looked into having some made up (made in USA) but the run-out from the QC made it not worth doing.

I am sorry, I did not get it at first. You found an extension which is 1/2 inch all the way. That would be great. Too easy! Lets find a source for those.

I think the standard ER11 threads are actually bigger than 1/2 inch and so that part of the extensions that I have seen are slightly larger than 1/2. Your threads also look coarser.

[bergerud]

I have looked at the stubby chucks. They seem a bit expensive and they have thicker nuts.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=308-0018&CS_003=5341490&CS_010=308-0018

[Jeff_Birt]

The nut is about the same size on the USA made unit I have as imports I got a hold of. The threaded end in the USA unit is actually shorter. The nut has to be stout to resist flexing when it is being tightened or the collet won't seat properly. The splined nuts are actually a little better in this regard as the nut will not deform as much as a hex nut will. The hex nuts are more convenient though.

I sent an email to my contact at Craftsman Industries to see what it would cost to get them made up to directly fit the CarveWright. I'll let everyone know what I hear. I think you are right bergerund that it would be most convenient for folks to be able to have a number of them so that they can have all of their bits pre-mounted.

[bergerud]

Good one Jeff. They seem a little expensive to have many on hand. One also has to buy the collets.

Funny about the threads. They seemed larger than 1/2 inch diameter on all my ER11 holders. I will check again when I get home. This was what made me think that the holders would always need turning. I thought the body would always be larger than 1/2.

[bergerud]

I have measured the thread diameter of four of my ER11 holders. Some from China and some from the US. All measure the threads to be near 0.55 of an inch. The shank near the threads measures the same. Turning the shank to 1/2 would completely remove the threads. So, I am at a loss to explain how the stubby threads could be the same or fall under 1/2 inch. There are ER11M threads but they are much smaller and finer I think. (I gave my only ER11M away so I cannot measure it.) I am puzzled unless they are ER11M threads..

[bergerud]

Here is the adapter in my friend's CT. I have to say that this is a really good thing. Look at those cheap bits! A 3/16 and 1/8 cutting bit worth less than $10 each. (Note the 1/8 cutting bit has only 3/4 inch LOC so there is less fear of breaking it.)

There is a run out problem to worry about. I carefully and foolishly turned the adapter down to 0.5000 only to find that the CT bore was 0.5025-0.5030 when I got to my friend's machine. I do not understand this. I have only seen one CT and so I do not know how much they vary. It seems to me that my friend got a poor one. The CT carving bit adapter is 0.4990-0.4995 and so his carving bit does wobble. I think this is a great idea but it is really important to get a close fit. I am now going to make a new adapter at 0.5025.

[bergerud]

I found this while surfing for ER11 stuff. I believe it is the same chuck that Jeff was talking about. Price is not bad compared to the $83 and over $100 I have seen elsewhere. You still have to buy collets. (Try Shars for those.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ER-11-STUBBY-COLLET-CHUCK-/110759870818

[Jeff_Birt]

I had contacted the manufacturer of the USA made ER11 stubby collet chucks again a few weeks ago to find out about getting some made up to fit the CarveTight (or 1/2" Rock) chuck. Their design guy was on vacation so it took a while for them to look at what it would take to make them.

They will be 'super stubby' ER 11 collet chucks, about 1.4" long (not including closing nut) with wrench flats just above the nut closing threads. With ER11 collets you use any bit up to 3/16".

What I would like to do is get an idea of the interest folks have in these. The more we can get made up at a time the less expensive they will be. Ideally I would like to have them priced low enough that you can keep your most used tools mounted in a 'Super Stubby' all the time and just swap them directly in/out of the CT/Rock with no worry about bushings. I don't feel comfortable 'advertising' things on CarveWrights forum so if your interested in one or more of these please send me an email at birt_j@soigeneris.com . Just let me know you are interested and about how many you might be interested in. Once I have an idea I'll be able to get some pricing and I'll send a replay to everyone who expressed an interest and let you know that the cost per piece would be.

[bergerud]

This is a good thing. I do not think people realize how something like this opens up the possibilities. The main one will be freedom from the breakage fear of the 1/8" cutting bit. Most cut outs and mills are much less than 1" deep and one can use cheaper cutting bits with a shorter LOC which do not break. Freedom from the pressed on adapters. Carbide shanks of regular router bits as well the as carving bits like Jeff sells will all fit without slipping. One can experiment with such things as two flute bits or 1/32 carving bits. I have an ER16 on my machine and I buy bits like my wife buys shoes!

The ER11 adapter may be a little expensive, being made in the USA. But, the money saved on cutting bits after only two unbroken ones will pay it off!


With ER11 collets you use any bit up to 3/16".

I think you meant 5/16". Usually collet sets sold are 1/32,1/16,3/32,1/8,3/16,7/32,1/4, but there are other sizes like 5/32,9/32, and even 5/16. Also there are metric ones (which we do not want). I think one really only needs 1/8,3/16, and 1/4. Collets prices range from $3 each to $30 each and beyond. For wood, the lower end of the scale will probably be ok.

EDIT: EMAIL JEFF !

[200k]

I'm interested. I have only one CW machine so I think a grand total of one ER11 adapter will entirely saturate my needs. It would provide an easy way to use 1/8” shaft bits without replacing the entire spindle. The photos look good and it doesn't look much bigger than the swaged on sleeve of CW bits.

However, I probably would be more interested in converting my CT to an ER11/20 (haven't decided which). I've seen what Bergerud posted (http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?18016-Make-Your-Own-ER11-Spindle&highlight=ER11+adapter (http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?18016-Make-Your-Own-ER11-Spindle&highlight=ER11+adapter)) with an entirely new ER11 spindle with his and I think it's overall the best idea. It certainly doesn't have the problems with balance and vibration that all the other spindles have. Unfortunately, like most of us, I don't have a complete machine shop available to me so I haven't been able to do anything but agree that it's a good idea.

In the thread discussion, I like the idea of using an ER20 with a splined nut over an ER11 so I could use the batch of CW bits I already have (and a couple of ½” shaft Freud router bits - 60 and 90 degrees). But even though I don't want to just toss all my CarveWright bits , if I had an ER20, when they wear out I wouldn't replace them with the comparatively more expensive swaged-on CW bits but switch to ¼”shank bits and source them from a cheaper place. OTOH, with an ER20 I couldn't use the 1/8" bits that are even cheaper and perfect for some of the fine work I do. I don't know whether the ER11 having less mass than an ER20 would be easier on the motor or worse. Spinning up the heavier mass is certainly more work but having the extra mass and inertia keep the bit spinning when it runs into some heavy cutting may be better enough to offset the initial work. Anybody good at Physics?


Here’s another idea for which I have no idea of its feasibility. Is it possible to make an ER20 adapter to fit in an ER16 spindle? In other words, pretty much what is planned with the ER11 adapter for the CT spindle. Just take an ER20 spindle, shorten it and shave the shaft upper shaft diameter to a max of 5/16” so it will slide into an ER11. GENIUS!

Is anybody interested in pursuing an ER11 spindle commercially?

200k

[bergerud]

It sounds like you like 1/2" shanks. In that case, you should keep the CT and use an ER11 adapter for the small bits. I do not like the straight ER11 spindle. It is too hard to change bits on the machine with the small collets and small nut. My favorite is the ER16M. I think the ER20 is too big. As for inertia, I have wondered myself. It seems to me that the extra rotational inertia of a big chuck does more harm than good. It is hard on the flex to always spin it up. The argument that inertia helps in the heavy cutting makes sense when the heavy cutting comes in short pulses. That was another reason I went with the ER16.

Another problem with the straight ER spindle is that of changing bits in a multi-bit project. If you do not have a lock button, the two wrench method gets a bit tedious. If the shank sizes of the bits are different, you have to also change the collet and nut. When you take all of this into account, the ER11 adapter starts to look good. Having a set of them going in and out of a CT would be a sweet setup.

(Remember to email Jeff if you are interested in an ER11 adapter. Lets not let this important message get buried in the thread.)

[Jeff_Birt]

[QUOTE=Jeff_Birt;199251]
They will be 'super stubby' ER 11 collet chucks, about 1.4" long (not including closing nut) with wrench flats just above the nut closing threads. With ER11 collets you use any bit up to 3/16". [QUOTE]

Yes I did mean 5/16", thanks for catching that :)

[CNC Carver]

here is a 3.5 long one on ebay you would just need to shorten them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ER-11-STUBBY-COLLET-CHUCK-/110759870818

[bergerud]

here is a 3.5 long one on ebay you would just need to shorten them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ER-11-STUBBY-COLLET-CHUCK-/110759870818

I had also posted that link. These are cheaper than other Stubby prices I have seen. If the company does make special short ones for the CW, I cannot see them being any cheaper. It could cost a bit to have a set of them with collets. Someone should buy one of those, cut it off and give it a test. There does not, however, seem to be flats on these things for the second wrench.


with wrench flats just above the nut closing threads.

Maybe it would be better to have the flats higher up away from the CT paw.

[200k]

It sounds like you like 1/2" shanks. In that case, you should keep the CT and use an ER11 adapter for the small bits. I do not like the straight ER11 spindle. It is too hard to change bits on the machine with the small collets and small nut. My favorite is the ER16M. I think the ER20 is too big. As for inertia, I have wondered myself. It seems to me that the extra rotational inertia of a big chuck does more harm than good. It is hard on the flex to always spin it up. The argument that inertia helps in the heavy cutting makes sense when the heavy cutting comes in short pulses. That was another reason I went with the ER16.

Another problem with the straight ER spindle is that of changing bits in a multi-bit project. If you do not have a lock button, the two wrench method gets a bit tedious. If the shank sizes of the bits are different, you have to also change the collet and nut. When you take all of this into account, the ER11 adapter starts to look good. Having a set of them going in and out of a CT would be a sweet setup.

(Remember to email Jeff if you are interested in an ER11 adapter. Lets not let this important message get buried in the thread.)

As usual you are spot on with pertinent info. I didn't realize the "small pieces" problems with the ER11 you were having. At my age, dexterity is no longer second nature - especially in tight quarters where my fingers no longer bend the way they used to. You have convinced me! If I replace my spindle with an ERwhatever it should be an ER16 but for the time being, that nice little ER11 adapter Jeff is working out the details on will fill my needs just fine.
Jeff: Sign me up for one! (I already emailed you too) ;-)

Spinning up the ER20: I keep forgetting about the flex cable in the bit drive system. Though it works well for the CW as a hobbyist machine, if I was to ever need a commercial CNC router I wouldn't even give a second thought about anything with a flex cable. Yes, I know many of you guys use these machines for businesses, but the flex cable is just not as robust as a direct spindle connection to the motor shaft. I'm actually amazed at how well the flex cable works. I've got a spare in my parts box but as yet I am not even close to needing it. Of course compared to many of you I am still a machine low-timer. The major advantage is the flex cable permits a machine design that is tremendously more compact and needs much smaller stepper motors than if the cut motor was on the z-axis truck. That one little feature permits the existence of a CNC machine costing about half what anything else on the market costs and yet has tons more working-piece size capacity. Yeah, I'll keep it.

Addendum: I just had a thought. Here I am talking about the extra mass of an ER20 spindle and yet the same effect will be present using an ER11 adapter on a CT spindle, i.e. extra spinning mass on the flex shaft and cut motor. Of course any time I use the ER11 adapter I would be using small bits and by simple physics, the stresses would be smaller than using my Freud 1/2" shank, 1" diameter, 90° V-bit (one of my favorites for Centerline Text). So, though this may be a valid thought, I'm not sure how relevant to any machine damaging concerns it might be.

200k

[Jeff_Birt]

[QUOTE=bergerud;199277]Someone should buy one of those, cut it off and give it a test. There does not, however, seem to be flats on these things for the second wrench.
QUOTE]

I already have modified one of the 1/2" shank stubbys and have been using it for quite a while now. The problem with them is having to cut them down (and keep them balanced) and the lack of wrench flats.

[bergerud]

Addendum: I just had a thought. Here I am talking about the extra mass of an ER20 spindle and yet the same effect will be present using an ER11 adapter on a CT spindle, i.e. extra spinning mass on the flex shaft and cut motor. Of course any time I use the ER11 adapter I would be using small bits and by simple physics, the stresses would be smaller than using my Freud 1/2" shank, 1" diameter, 90° V-bit (one of my favorites for Centerline Text). So, though this may be a valid thought, I'm not sure how relevant to any machine damaging concerns it might be.

200k

The addition of the ER11 adapter is no big deal. It is not the mass that is so important, it is the rotational inertia. The rotational inertia is proportional to the mass, true, but also proportional to the radius squared. Mass out at a large radius is what is hard to spin up.

[bergerud]

Here is my latest attempt at an ER11 adapter. I made it from a $15 (plus shipping) ER11M extension. According to the picture, I thought I would only have to cut off the long shank. The extension, however, was not as pictured and I had to turn off some extra metal. (Beware of of this if you buy from China. Ask first if the product is as pictured before you buy.) Then I had to drill it out and file on some flats. The problem with this holder is that the acuracy of final result does depend on the original acuracy of the holder because the threaded part is 1/2" and cannot really be turned true.

This is really going to work well with the dust shoe. I really like the small diameter mini nut and wrench. (I have to make another window for just for it.)

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/160639939266?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

[mtylerfl]

That is lookin' great, Dan.

[wlkjr]

What makes the ER11 better than a collet adapter? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012JG9QM/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00B75ZTXK&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1MP85W4R3RN9K64M5DA9

[Deolman]

I have seen that type of collet adapter slip.

[bergerud]

What makes the ER11 better than a collet adapter?

Those split adapters, as mentioned, do not hold well on carbide with only a split or two in them. They do not cover many sizes. Good luck finding a 3/16" one. If you do find a 1/8" one it will be so thick it will slip on carbide for sure. The ER system is one of the CNC industry standards for milling machines. They are simple, symmetric, and really work well.

What I am proposing here are removable adapters which stay on the bit. You tighten them on outside the machine and insert them like you would with a QC or pressed on adapter.

[wlkjr]

Gotcha. I see the need now, especially for the shanks smaller than 1/4

[dltccf]

Those split adapters, as mentioned, do not hold well on carbide with only a split or two in them. They do not cover many sizes. Good luck finding a 3/16" one. If you do find a 1/8" one it will be so thick it will slip on carbide for sure. The ER system is one of the CNC industry standards for milling machines. They are simple, symmetric, and really work well.

What I am proposing here are removable adapters which stay on the bit. You tighten them on outside the machine and insert them like you would with a QC or pressed on adapter.

Thanks, this helped me too. I have been following the conversation, but wasn't sure what was being accomplished. This made it clear.

dave

[chief2007]

CW-parts, the rock chuck home page carries adapters 1/2 to 1/8, 1/2-3/16, that work in the carvetight. I use them on one of my machines - no problems thus far and no slippage.

[bergerud]

That is a really good point Chief. Although not quite as versatile or as convenient as a set of ER adapters would be, those Rock adapters sound like they get the job done.
I really liked the original quick change idea with the QC adapters. These ER adapters could provide a slick quick change system. For those who carve a lot of multi-bit projects, it would be convenient. A single part in and out. No collars.

[farmer]

Jeff and bergerud I have been reading this and decided to get a ER=11 I bought mine from Bass Tool it is a Iscar EMT, with a 1/2" X 4" shank I would like to know how much to cut off it look like I need to cut about 3" off that would leave about 1" above the threads. I attached a pic of the kit it came with all the adapter and the wrench in a nice case.

[bergerud]

That looks very nice. Where to cut it off is a good question. There is, I believe, 1 inch of 1/2 inch bore in the CT. How long you leave the adapter shank depends on how you want to use the adapter.

If you want to use the ER11M as a chuck, loosening and tightening the ER11M to change bits while it stays in the CT, you would want to leave more than an inch of shank so the shank of the ER11M adapter hits the top of the CT before the ER11M nut hits the bottom.

On the other hand, if you want to use the ER11M as an adapter which you take in and out with the bit in it, it might be better the have the shank just short of an inch so that the nut hits first. (This would be more accurate for repeatable bit depth I think.)

My thought was to use the ER11M as an adapter to be tightened outside of the CT and so I would cut it off just under an inch.

Please keep us updated on how this goes. I worry about run out. How well does the shank fit in the CT?

[farmer]

I will want to use it as an adapter and take it out to change the bits. I will try it this weekend and let u know!
Thanks Steve

[bergerud]

I will want to use it as an adapter and take it out to change the bits. I will try it this weekend and let u know!
Thanks Steve

How did it go? Did you get a chance to cut down the holder and give it a try?

I have a guy in China making adapters for $15 each (with wrench) and another China source for collets at $3 each. After I give these a try, I will report.

[badbert]

How did it go? Did you get a chance to cut down the holder and give it a try?

I have a guy in China making adapters for $15 each (with wrench) and another China source for collets at $3 each. After I give these a try, I will report.

Looking forward to that report!

[farmer]

I cut 2 1/2 " off it work good but sticks out to far I am going to cut another 1/2" off and try it again this weekend I will not home to try it until this week end. It went up in the chuck about 1". If I cut another1/2" that will leave about 1" above the threads. Dowse anyone know what the RPM is of the spindle?

[bergerud]

The spindle is up to 20000 rpm.

On the ones I have made, the exposed threads (about 1/4") also go into the CT until the nut hits. The nut itself is almost 1/2" thick and this is all the room there is between the CT and the board at the bottom of travel. I would think that your holder, being of higher quality, should have less free threads.

When you get it the way you want it, it would be useful if you could post a picture.

[farmer]

Here are the pics I took I tried it and its runs smooth not much run out. Will take my indicator home this weekend and check it. The nut does not hit the CT it is about 1/8" away. The shaft bottoms out in the CT so it will always set in to the same distance.

[CNC Carver]

Farmer that looks great. Nice work. Keep us updated on how well it works.

[bergerud]

That does look nice. With that extra 1/8", you have to be careful. The ER nut could hit the wood if you have a short bit going deep.

[bergerud]

The manufacturer in China has finally made some ER11M adapters and is sending me one free to test. I told him I would buy three if I liked them. (Recall: they are $15 each including the nut and wrench but no collets)

I am hoping he will put them on ebay for anyone to buy. It seems to me he could sell quite a few. (My real hope would be for LHR to take over the idea sell them as a machine accessory. To that end, I have not yet told the manufacturer that they are for the CW machine.)

[easybuilt]

Bergerud that is awesome, I will be anxious to see how it works out. Thanks for sharing and being so proactive!

[wlkjr]

I assume Ebay would be much cheaper since LHR's shipping is a little high.

[bergerud]

I finally recieved the ER11M adapter sample. It is too long and does not have the wrench flats. I guess my drawing was not detailed enough or he has a commuication problem with the machinist. I sent a more detailed drawing and more instructions. He seems confident he will make it right now.

[bergerud]

I just received new samples of the ER11M Adapter from China. They finally got it right. These are very nice.

I asked him if he would make 10 of them and put them on eBay. I told him if they did not sell, I would buy them. (I will buy 5 of them later in any case.) The original quote was $15 with nut and wrench. If he included a collet and made it $20, that might even be better. (Otherwise one has to buy collets separately.) I think these will sell fast as not only CW users would find them useful.

I will update again soon after I hear back from him.

[SteveJ]

Looks like a clean adapter. I already use an er11 adapter but paid more and cut it to length. Works great! Please let us know when they are available. I will certainly try one. It is better to have a few so you don't have to change the bits out so often.
Thank you!
Steve

[Nighthawk12]

I would like to get one. This would help me alot.

[henry1]

I am in for that one also please let me know

[RogerB]

Put me down for one please.

[chief2007]

Better tell him to put more out there on eBay, I would take 2

[farmer]

Put me in one one also!

[bergerud]

The manufacturer has contacted me and says he will make 20 of the adapters and put them on eBay. I suggested he give a choice between 1/8", 3/16", or, 1/4" collect. I will post the link when he puts them up for sale. (This is fun. I have never had someone manufacture something I have designed before.)

[55president]

What is his ebay handle?

[bergerud]

What is his ebay handle?

onlineseller68. There is also a website: YSTOOLS.com

[aokweld101]

I like the setup also I had used the carvewright adaptors and in using that rubber tubing it got warm enough to melt it off and at first I seen the rubber tubing and wondered what it was. don't like seeing foreign objects in the machine. lol

[bluecobra]

For those of you unfamiliar with eBay, you can find sellers using this link here:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/ebayadvsearch?_sofindtype=2

You can refine the search afterwards by searching for ER 11

[200k]

I've been waiting for this to resolve for a couple of years. At last ! I'll take one too!

200k

[CNC Carver]

Bergerud is this the correct one's 28mm in length? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1pcs-1-2-ER11-28L-Straight-collet-chuck-and-3pcs-ER11-collet-1-4-3-16and1-8-/281140814484?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item41754c6294#ht_2208wt_932

[bergerud]

Yes, this is it! I did not expect it to be up so soon. I suggested a choice between the collets, not all three and where is the wrench? Communication sure is a problem. I will ask about the wrench.

Edit: it also looks like a 1/16, 1/8, and 1/4 inch collets in the picture. He probably did not have a 3/16 on hand for the shot. I sent him a message about the missing wrench.

[henry1]

Yes, this is it! I did not expect it to be up so soon. I suggested a choice between the collets, not all three and where is the wrench? Communication sure is a problem. I will ask about the wrench.

Edit: it also looks like a 1/16, 1/8, and 1/4 inch collets in the picture. He probably did not have a 3/16 on hand for the shot. I sent him a message about the missing wrench.
The item they put on ebay is your own designed and is it the right one

[aokweld101]

I just ordered the set, I bet his supply don't last long...I'm looking forward to using it!

[bergerud]

Yes it is Henry. There is no wrench however. If you want to buy one, first send the seller a message asking if he will include the special wrench. I am sure he will, but get him to say it up front in an ebay message.

[bergerud]

I just ordered the set, I bet his supply don't last long...I'm looking forward to using it!

If he had the words Carvewright and Compucarve in the listing, I think they would really go fast. As it is, only the forum members know about it.

[CNC Carver]

Looks like 2 have been sold. I'm waiting on the answer about the wrench.

[bergerud]

Looks like 2 have been sold. I'm waiting on the answer about the wrench.

It will be awhile, it is 1:30 am in Hong Kong.

[CNC Carver]

Yes! I know one question and answer per day.

[henry1]

It will be awhile, it is 1:30 am in Hong Kong.
I did send him a request about the wrench

[aokweld101]

if the wrench don't come with it I'll buy it or make it.

[bergerud]

if the wrench don't come with it I'll buy it or make it.

Still send the seller a message asking him if the wrench comes with it. Say Bergerud said it would.

[gapdev]

I just bought two of these and asked him to include a Wrench or send an Invoice so I can pay extra for one.

If he doesn't include the wrench, where can we buy one?

Where's a good place to buy extra collets in case we need them?

Kenny

[bergerud]

The cheapest collets I have found are at: http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-Tool-%26-Work-Holding-cln-ER-Collets-cln-Individual-Collets/Categories #F5800

Collets can cost quite a bit more if they are higher precision and American made. I think for our the woodworking application with the CT, these are fine. The runout from side clamping the adapter in the CT is more than the runout of the collets.

The wrench is at: http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-Tool-%26-Work-Holding-cln-ER-Spanners/Categories #F86

For higher quality collets, I have used: http://www.shars.com/product_categories/search/?search=er11

[bergerud]

Well he added the wrench but increased the shipping. I guess there is no free lunch! Those who were quick may have saved $5. It seems a little expensive, but at least you get everything you need in one shot. (If you ordered it before he added the wrench, make sure you send a message about the wrench.)

I cannot wait for you guys to try it. Start browsing for 1/8 and 3/16 end mills and ball mills you can use.

[aokweld101]

Thanks bergerud, It's nice to know. That a good word was put in.

[Jeff_Birt]

The cheapest collets I have found are at:

Collets can cost quite a bit more if they are higher precision and American made. I think for our the woodworking application with the CT, these are fine. The runout from side clamping the adapter in the CT is more than the runout of the collets.


It is a common misconception that run-out is less of an issue when working with wood. About a year ago I talked a good customer of mine, that cuts mostly balsa and aircraft plywood, into buying a better router motor for his large format router table and getting some precision collets. He was skeptical to say the least. After the change over his bits last 1.5x to 2x as long and he gets better quality parts being produced. It cost him less than $200 to upgrade and he has saved that much on bits in a year. I'm not selling him as many bits but he is happy and a satisfied customer.

Run-out comes in two flavors. The first type is where the axis of the tool and spindle are parallel but offset. You can think of it as the tool being off center of the spindle rotation. This type of run-out is not as bad as it is consistent no matter how far from the spindle you measure it. The other type of run out most folks would characterize as 'wobble', this is where the axis of the tool is not parallel to the axis of the spindle. With this type of run-out the further down the tool you go the more run-out you will measure. For a really good write up on run-out and why it matters take a look at: http://precisebits.com/tutorials/Choosing_collets.htm , and http://precisebits.com/tutorials/spindle_runout.htm .

You can buy 'good' collets for $10~$20. I have some that I bought several years ago made by ETM in Israel, they were not expensive and have worked very well. Buying tooling made is China is a crap shoot in my experience. If you have a known good supplier and your own quality control lab set up to verify the accuracy of what your getting then it can be OK. For example compare what you get form Grizzly tools and harbor Freight. While there products look similar and are both made in China the quality of what Grizzly sells is much higher. Caveat emptor

[bergerud]

I agree with you on the runout. My ER20M spindle was turned from one I bought from Maritool, my main collets are also from Maritool and Shars. It is just that, from my experience, the runout due to clamping the adapter into the CT is an order of magnitude more than the runout in the adapter collets. Thousandths Vs ten thousandths. ( Hundredths for some of the QCs) As long as the runout is in the ten thousandths, I am happy. But for that I think you need an ER20M spindle.

Here is a test for those with the CT. Put a small piece (1/4" long) of Scotch tape on one side of your pressed on adapter and see if it still fits into the CT. It does for the one I have. The tape is about 0.002" thick. If it fits, the runout from clamping will be at least that.

[bergerud]

It looks like he sold 17 and then ended the listing. I see he now has 10 more up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1pcs-1-2-ER11-28L-Straight-collet-chuck-and-3pcs-ER11-collet-1-4-3-16and1-8-/281142871145?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item41756bc469


It does include the one wrench although it may look like two.

[aokweld101]

bergerud , I sent the e-mail asking about the wrench and he said came with it,....I said .....GREAT!!!! thank you My FRIEND..

[Nighthawk12]

Has anyone received there ER11 Adapters yet?

[55president]

Just paid for mine yesterday with 3 collets and a spanner wrench. I will post when it comes in.

FXP

[SteveJ]

My order came in the mail today. I was one of the early purchasers when the listing did not offer the wrench. I had one already, so not a problem. I will try it out this weekend.

[chief2007]

I will be on the look out for mine, I was an early bird as well

[SteveJ]

Well I gave this new collet holder a try last night and carved the August POM. All went very well. Thanks bergerud for doing all the work in getting this available to us all. The price is good and the inclusion of 3 collets make it a great value. I have paid 40.00 just for a stubby collet holder and then cut it off. Here is a custom made holder for our machines at a good price. I may order more in the future if he continues to offer it. Thank you!
Steve

[gapdev]

My orders arrived today. The seller is a bit slow in the shipping department (1 1/2 weeks).

I did two orders (5 adapters), with the first order before he offered the wrenches. I added a note to include the wrench and he did.

I also ordered a bunch of 1/8 and 1/4 inch collets from Amazon and ctctools.biz.

Can't wait to try these out. I have a bunch of bits taken from the old QC adapter and bits for use with my CNC Shark.

Kenny

[bergerud]

I think he was slow because he had not made them yet! I do not think he believed me and was "testing" the market. Normally he is very fast.

(If anyone finds a good source of 1/8 and 3/16 bits on the web or ebay, give it a post.)

[chief2007]

Ron justice's website has bits. CW-parts.com.

http://www.cw-parts.com/page4.html

[henry1]

I think he was slow because he had not made them yet! I do not think he believed me and was "testing" the market. Normally he is very fast.

(If anyone finds a good source of 1/8 and 3/16 bits on the web or ebay, give it a post.)
He wasn't slow he had to remake them because of tread problem I had ordered 2 of them I never check my P.O. box probably in

[chief2007]

Precise bits is another avenue for bits as well

[chief2007]

Drillman1 on eBay sells bits as well.

[gapdev]

he was slow because he had not made them yet!)

Yea, I ordered 3 more yesterday afternoon and he's already shipped them. Gotta love it when it is already tomorrow in China.

Kenny

[200k]

Nothin' yet. I expect to see it in the mail everyday. I ordered it on August 4th and according to the tracking info on eBay, it is still in transit with the last checkpoint a transfer warehouse in Guangzhou.

200k

[bergerud]

I see that 26 of these have now been sold. I assume most have been delivered and tested by now. I am interested in what you guys think. What have you used them for? What about the quality of the adapter and collets? How well do they fit in the CT?

[DickB]

I just purchased one but it has not been delivered yet. I got one because I need an alternate source for 1/8" cutting bits: http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?23584-New-1-8-quot-cutting-bit-causing-serious-overheating-problem and an adapter - this seemed like a good choice. I haven't gotten an answer back from LHR on my overheating problem yet. Maybe I should ask on another thread, but does anyone have recommendations on where to source 1/8" cutting bits that run cool? Once I get the adapter and cutting bit I will report.

[bergerud]

but does anyone have recommendations on where to source 1/8" cutting bits that run cool? Once I get the adapter and cutting bit I will report.

Just go buy a 1/8" 2 flute up spiral router bit. As long as a 1/2" LOC is enough, you will be amazed at how well it works.

[DickB]

Thanks. Will give that a try.

[55president]

Still waiting for my show up , shipping info shows that it's in transit

[bergerud]

I see that 26 of these have now been sold. I assume most have been delivered and tested by now. I am interested in what you guys think. What have you used them for? What about the quality of the adapter and collets? How well do they fit in the CT?

Anybody???

[chief2007]

I am still waiting on the 2 I ordered on July 24. I have requested a replacement from the seller so will see what happens.

[henry1]

Anybody???
They real nice in the ct and snug they work well got mine a week ago nice

[easybuilt]

Mine has not showed up yet from my order 14 days ago.

[bergerud]

That is strange. He has always been a fast shipper for me. I see the listing is ending soon (11 hrs from this post.). I do not know if he will re list.

[ladjr]

Eddie
I just got mine end of last week

[chief2007]

Yes was hoping I had mine to run some projects, if all is well would buy 2 more

[chief2007]

Finally received my order, will be trying it out in the next couple of days.

[Nighthawk12]

I ordered 2 they came in last Friday, tried one out Saturday in my Compucarve that has a rock chuck works great. I haven't tried it yet in the Carvewright C machine with the CT yet. Thanks Bergerud

[unitedcases]

I thought these could only be ised with the carvetight?

[bergerud]

I thought these could only be ised with the carvetight?

There is no reason they cannot be used with the 1/2" Rock. The Rock is lower than the CT so, it is possible to hit the wood with the adapter if you have less bit sticking out than the depth of your carve. (It is just that I did not have a Rock to test.)

[200k]

I just got mine yesterday. It is much smaller than it looks in the photos but that's because I really didn't think of what size it needed to be to work. It looks good but for now that's all the review I can give...

200k

[chief2007]

Well after a couple of weeks on being down for non-Carvewright issues (tore 2 tendons in my right arm) I am back to carving today.

Using the ER 11 adapter. So far running like a champ. I purchased 3 adapters, I have one set up with the 1/16 carving bit, one setup with
3/16 cutting bit and one with the keyhole bit. I recommend you have at least 2 and set up the bits prior to starting the project.

No problem with loading the bits for the project

Keyhole worked like a charm, carving now and it looks great. Will let you know on the cut out.

[henry1]

Well after a couple of weeks on being down for non-Carvewright issues (tore 2 tendons in my right arm) I am back to carving today.

Using the ER 11 adapter. So far running like a champ. I purchased 3 adapters, I have one set up with the 1/16 carving bit, one setup with
3/16 cutting bit and one with the keyhole bit. I recommend you have at least 2 and set up the bits prior to starting the project.

No problem with loading the bits for the project

Keyhole worked like a charm, carving now and it looks great. Will let you know on the cut out.
Glad to see your back up and feeling better

[aokweld101]

I had issues with getting the spanner wrench I have been corresponding with him, he said he mailed it and that was Sept. 2, I know that it takes time to get here so I'm still waiting.

[chief2007]

I had issues with getting the spanner wrench I have been corresponding with him, he said he mailed it and that was Sept. 2, I know that it takes time to get here so I'm still waiting.

Pm me your address I have an extra I will send you

[farmer]

Got my 2 I ordered Fri they look good used one Sat and works great I already had 1 I bought with 6 collets a wrench and nice box from issacr had to cut it myself cost was $317 plus tax!

[Deolman]

I just ordered 2. Estimated arrival is 30-Sep. Now if I wasn't so deep in another project I could get back to my CarveWright. Withdrawal is horrible.

[easybuilt]

Hopefully yours come in sooner than mine. I ordered one on August 8th and they arrived yesterday. He kept telling me they were shipped and then said he we going to send another but I only received one via wagon train I think??

[chief2007]

Average fas been 3-4 weeks, I think clearing US Customs may be be part of the delay.

Good move to get at least 2. I purchased a 3rd.
Now who has links for 3/16 carving (ball nose) bits from a different source? The 3/16 cutting bit is not a problem to find.

[aokweld101]

I haven't got the spanner wrench yet, I got the collets and the spanner wrench wasn't sent with them I am still waiting on the wrench did a tracking on it and its in Chicago via ups I did use the 1/4 collet used a universal spanner wench didn't get the collet tight enough and it slipped out good thing I was close to it, it tore the rubber belt a little but it's still good...still waiting to get it I was one of the first ones to order the er-11.. I been waiting for about 6 or 7 weeks on getting the complete package but he has made good on his word. Tom China's a long ways from here still waiting for the wagon train to get here....

[James RS]

Hello I just walked in the middle of this movie, question about this ER11. Will it work with a Rock chuck?


The CT chuck is nearly 1/2 inch higher than the other chucks. This extra space was what I used to slip the dust shoe between the chuck and the board. Well, I just found another use for the space: an ER11 adapter. I just made one out of an old ER11 spindle that I had laying around. It is very simple to make from a cheap Chinese ER11 collet extension (pictured in the background). The neat thing about it is that you clamp it onto a bit and then put it in the CT chuck. It is a variable size adapter. It will hold any size bit from 1/32 to 1/4. I have not had a chance to test it yet but I will this weekend on my friends C machine. I do not think it will run as true as a full ER spindle. But think of the possibilities!

[bergerud]

Hello I just walked in the middle of this movie, question about this ER11. Will it work with a Rock chuck?

I do not have a Rock to test. I have used the ER11 adapters on an ER20 which was as low as the Rock. The only potential problem I can see is if you put a really short bit in it and carved a deep hole. If you really try, it is possible to drive the ER nut into the wood. (This cannot happen with the CT.)

So, I think that they would work just fine with the Rock.

[bergerud]

Average fas been 3-4 weeks, I think clearing US Customs may be be part of the delay.

Good move to get at least 2. I purchased a 3rd.
Now who has links for 3/16 carving (ball nose) bits from a different source? The 3/16 cutting bit is not a problem to find.

Try this:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/3-16-Carbide-Endmill-4-Flute-Ballnose-XLong-3-16-shank-TiCN-coated-/271143391793?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item3f2167d231

[chief2007]

Thanks Bergerud

[aokweld101]

I just received my spanner wench 5 mins ago sure been a long wait...Thank you chief for offering me a spanner wench If it didn't come..that's why I wanted to wait when we talked it was on its way !!!

[Deolman]

I ordered 2 units 7 days ago today. They arrived yesterday. I ordered late my time so it basically took 5 days to get here. The order was complete with 2 chucks, 6 collets and 2 wrenches. I am happy with the service.

[WRW]

I realize that this is an older thread however I would like to revisit this to see if the people that purchased the "1/2 ER11 28L Straight collet chuck and 3pcs ER11 collet 1/4,3/16and1/8", are still happy with it and using it. Also if anyone has purchase the inexpensive collet sets from amazon to try, and how they worked. What I am wanting to do is drill 1/16 holes 3/4 deep.
Thanks all
Have a great day.
Richard

[mtylerfl]

I really like the idea of having the ER11, but I seem to recall it was "involved" to make the necessary modifications. I will say it's been so long since I read about what was required, that I have forgotten all the details. I think they are buried at various locations in this thread but don't have time to go hunting at the moment. It would be cool to have a nice, neat set of illustrated instructions to go by which outlines the step-by-step procedure (a PDF perhaps?).

[aokweld101]

I have 2 sets of the 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 and I still use them, The only problem is finding a 1/16 ball nose tapered bit, I bought one through jeefoo and the point was smaller than the 1/32 bit that I bought from LHR and was only a 1/8 shank I don't know if I should use it... since it is smaller I wonder if it will give me better detail than on the tapered 1/32 bit, I know that the machine has its perimeters that is why I wonder If I should use it....I don't like using the mm measuring system It misses me up. My light isn't that bright ! ...LOL

[WRW]

At the beginning of this thread bergerud had arranged the start of this by having 10 put on ebay for sale. It know shows 100 sold, so some one is using them. The current link is http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1pcs-1-2-ER11-28L-Straight-collet-chuck-and-3pcs-ER11-collet-1-4-3-16and1-8/281142871145?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3Dec9b919133ff45bb924 c80fe1fa8524a%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26 sd%3D281140814484 it includes the er11, the three collets and two wrenches. So I think they may have worked out any bugs. Some of the collet sets have the collet I need but I wonder if it will be precise enough.

Thanks Again

[aokweld101]

I pulled up another thread about the size of bit to use. I am going to order a few bits. bergerud would you tell me if ths is right?

[bergerud]

At the beginning of this thread bergerud had arranged the start of this by having 10 put on ebay for sale. It know shows 100 sold, so some one is using them. The current link is http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1pcs-1-2-ER11-28L-Straight-collet-chuck-and-3pcs-ER11-collet-1-4-3-16and1-8/281142871145?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3Dec9b919133ff45bb924 c80fe1fa8524a%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26 sd%3D281140814484 it includes the er11, the three collets and two wrenches. So I think they may have worked out any bugs. Some of the collet sets have the collet I need but I wonder if it will be precise enough.

Thanks Again

There are no bugs and no modifications are required. Once you use it, you will not know how you lived without it. It is quite precise. You can also buy other size collects for it if you want.

aokweld: that is a 6 mm shank.

[aokweld101]

thanks Dan for your reply I have a chart and I have problems on the dimensions or what the number stand for... 6mm = 15/64, thanks again I don't like buying something I'm not sure about. It's like throwing money away.

[WRW]

Thanks bergerud for the answers to all my questions, I look forward to trying them. I appreciate you kicking this off back in Feb of 2013, as there are now 100 sold you have helped the maker and others, besides myself, in this forum.
Ebay and amazon next.
Have a great night.

[mtylerfl]

There are no bugs and no modifications are required...

Hi Dan,

Are there modifications required to the CT to get the ER11 installed for use? For some reason I thought there were, but maybe it just slides into the CT chuck (like an adaptor?). Sheesh, I can't remember.

[DonCP]

I bought one on bergerud's recommendation. I now have two of these. Thinking of a third, it makes using smaller bits so convenient.

Thank you bergerud!

[bergerud]

Hi Dan,

Are there modifications required to the CT to get the ER11 installed for use? For some reason I thought there were, but maybe it just slides into the CT chuck (like an adaptor?). Sheesh, I can't remember.

The ER11 adapter just slides into the CT as would a 1/2" shank bit.

(You are thinking of the ER20M spindle which replaced the CT completely. That is a whole different story!)

[mtylerfl]

The ER11 adapter just slides into the CT as would a 1/2" shank bit.

(You are thinking of the ER20M spindle which replaced the CT completely. That is a whole different story!)

Yes - that was it!! Thank you for refreshing my memory!

[WRW]

Merry Christmas All
I now have the ER11 adapter and several sizes of collets for it. I have the project setup that I ordered these for, the project needs to have 1/8 and 1/16 holes drilled through 3/4 oak. I have no problem of course in doing the standard 1/8 holes, however when I try to select 1/16 bit it will not allow configuration to drill through board. What would I select in the program to drill the 1/16 holes.
I have tried making the drill hole a carve area but when I set the depth to go through board it seems to disappear from the screen but can still be seen in the carve list.
Any help would be appreciated; I hope to finish this before Christmas.
Thanks

[mtylerfl]

Hi Richard,

The software limits the use of a 1/16" straight bit to a depth of .25", if I recall (due to the fragile nature of the bit).

You may want to just create shallow divots with the bit, then use the divots as a guide to manually drill through with your drill press or hand drill.

[WRW]

Thanks Michael, I did find away to do it. I chose the 3/16 on the pattern for the 1/16 bit in ER11 and of course the 1/8 for the 1/8 holes, it did make the pattern look strange but worked perfectly. When I loaded the ER11 with the 1/16, I stepped back to watch (just in case bit shattered), it drilled 48 1/16" holes through 3/4 oak with out appearing to strain in any way.

[mtylerfl]

Thank you for the update, Richard. I thought of fooling the machine too, but was afraid to mention it as I didn't want to risk breaking your bit. Happy days though - you got away with it without issue!

[mtylerfl]

I forgot to ask...did you use just a regular 1/16" drill bit in the chuck?...or did you purchase a "brand-x" 1/16" end mill instead?

[FWMiller]

Where do you find a 1/16 end mill with more than 1/4 inch cut length?

[mtylerfl]

That's what I'm wondering. The CW 1/16" straight bit has less than 0.5" cutting flute length, before the diameter increases, so I'm thinking it's got to be something other than that particular bit that was used.

[DianMayfield]

Never mind... I really need to read these posts like 3 times!!! :mad:

[bergerud]

As long as the hole is a straight drill (ie. the selected bit's diameter and the hole diameter are the same in Designer), one can use a regular drill bit. Drill bits are actually better at drilling holes than end mills. I have experimented with this a few times.

[FWMiller]

Good point. RPM is a lot higher than drill press but if there's no side force it makes sense. I guess you just need a good bit that the flutes don't get clogged easily which is often a problem with small drill bits.

[WRW]

Michael just used a 1/16 out of my drill bit set.

[mtylerfl]

Thank you, Richard. I guess I wasn't the only one curious about that!

[shortround72]

Just ordered 5 sets of these things. Can't wait for them to come in. Tired of using split collets and never getting them set exactly right every time. Thanks for sharing this great information.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mugsowner]

You will like them, very nice piece, good quality. Adds more ability as well.

[shortround72]

Just ordered 5 sets of these things. Can't wait for them to come in. Tired of using split collets and never getting them set exactly right every time. Thanks for sharing this great information.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So they finally arrived but none of them came with a locking nut. I’ve made several attempts to contact the seller but am getting no where. These are useless without the locking nuts. Any suggestions?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171006/426958ec719c9f37a9753e4482b8570d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171006/45aa862bb23927575e4619d4c169527a.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mtylerfl]

Looks like they goofed and forgot to pack the locking nuts with your order. Hopefully it won't take another three weeks to get the nuts!

[Mugsowner]

I did not have any problems when I ordered mine, but I have had other issues, I assume you purchased on Ebay. Let Ebay know of the problem and you will get some type of reply.

[fwharris]

Hey Dan, any chance that you can get in contact with the supplier and have some more made up?

[mister_zed]

Hey Dan, any chance that you can get in contact with the supplier and have some more made up?
I know that this is an old question, but anyway...

I have ordered a couple of 1/2" STRAIGHT SHANK ER11 COLLET CHUCK TOOL HOLDR EXTENSION HOLDER LENGTH 1.1" 676525016224 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/225127411568)
Could those fix the job for you?

EDIT: I got the items today and of course, it was C1/2-ER11-28L, although it did not look like it in the picture on Ebay.