Carvetight upgrade worries

[Boogie]

Greetings from a new member in Colorado!

I just got my carvetight upgrade and installed it last night. I haven't tried any carving yet because I just noticed that I failed to install the washer that goes to the bottom right roller on the Z-truck. Now the red lock-tight is doing it's job and removing the screw to install the washer isn't going to be easy. What are the ramifications of not installing it? The z-truck has already has a countersunk hole for the screw. What is this washer for anyway?

Can someone ease my anxiety?

[fwharris]

Greetings from a new member in Colorado!

I just got my carvetight upgrade and installed it last night. I haven't tried any carving yet because I just noticed that I failed to install the washer that goes to the bottom right roller on the Z-truck. Now the red lock-tight is doing it's job and removing the screw to install the washer isn't going to be easy. What are the ramifications of not installing it? The z-truck has already has a countersunk hole for the screw. What is this washer for anyway?

Can someone ease my anxiety?

Boogie,

The washer is for some of the older trucks that had a thinner case area on that bottom side. The vibration from to old QC would cause the case to break. The newer trucks are beefed up and do not need the washer. If you can post a picture of your new one maybe we can let you know.

Did you make it out to the WoodShow in Denver this past weekend??

[chief2007]

Run the user test to ensure you have no problems with the Z truck movement. If you have clean movement without any binding you should be alright. Also ensure that you don't have any play in you Z truck.

The new machines no longer have that washer on the Z truck.

[Boogie]

Thanks for the super fast replies! I feel less nervous now... I'm upgrading an old QC machine that I got back in 2009 or so. It's been sitting around for a long time collecting dust and I'm just now trying to get her upgraded and up and running again. My new z-truck should be beefed up because it was shipped just last week? If needed, I'll try to get a photo tonight, but I think I'm probably in good shape based on your comments.

I didn't make it out to the Denver show. Hopefully next time.

Thanks again everyone! I'm sure this isn't the last time you'll hear from me.

[lynnfrwd]

Call LHR to make sure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Digitalwoodshop]

The older thinner Z Trucks still have the holes in them for the sensors. IF you have the holes in the Truck I would Drill out the screw and use a torch to heat the stud and vice grips to remove the screw stud and start over. It is the WEDGE effect of the screw that splits the Casting making the Z Truck a dumpster item... Only the beefed up trucks with the holes covered with molded metal are good without the washer.

AL

[bergerud]

If you do decide to remove the screw and put the washer on. (If the truck tab is thin and needs the washer.) You may find the procedure in posts 46 - 49 of the thread useful:

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?20413-250-Maintenance-Requirements&p=176033#post176033

[Boogie]

Well, looking closely at the z-truck, the material thickness of the truck at the top right roller screw hole appears to be the same thickness of the bottom right roller screw hole material.

I ran a test carving and oh man, what a difference the upgrade made.:D The truck is nice and tight and no signs of exploding into a million pieces.

Thanks again everyone and thanks for the references to the procedures. Can someone point me to a procedure to properly tighten the z-axis belt? The top adjustment screw was rubbing the lid after re-assembly, so I ran it down. How do I know if it's too tight?

I'm so glad my CarveWright is finally carving right!

[badbert]

That screw bottoms out tight. The spring is what gives the tension, not the screw.

[bergerud]

Well, looking closely at the z-truck, the material thickness of the truck at the top right roller screw hole appears to be the same thickness of the bottom right roller screw hole material.


I think you have the thinner base model which uses the washer for extra support. If it is installed fine and working, I would go with it. Just remember that that tab is delicate and not to break it if you take it off again. (I believe the washer is only so that the user does not break off the tab installing or adjusting the bearings.)

[Boogie]

I think you have the thinner base model which uses the washer for extra support. If it is installed fine and working, I would go with it. Just remember that that tab is delicate and not to break it if you take it off again. (I believe the washer is only so that the user does not break off the tab installing or adjusting the bearings.)

The truck base (flange) thickness appears to be the same for both of the right side top and bottom rollers. The left side indeed appears to be a bit thicker than the right.

I can't understand why a washer would only be needed on the bottom right roller if the truck flange at the top right roller has the same thickness, but I don't want to mess up my truck in the long term by not using this washer, so I'll try to get a picture of it tonight, unless someone can post a pic of what a truck that doesn't need the washer looks like? Are they still shipping the thinner base models with the carvetight upgrade?

Edit : I took a look at post #49 on this thread : http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?20413-250-Maintenance-Requirements&p=176033#post176033 and I think that's what my truck looks like. I don't have it in front of me right now, but it appears to be very similar in regards to the roller mounting flange for the right side of the truck. Is this truck a thin base model or a thick base model?

[Boogie]

That screw bottoms out tight. The spring is what gives the tension, not the screw.

I bottomed it out and then backed it off a little bit.

So, there really is no tension adjustment to worry about other than to change the spring if the belt gets too loose?

Thanks for the help!

[fwharris]

The picture in this link of the CarveTight and ztruck is the old style truck. Notice on the left side is a slot/opening and right side it the old scanning probe plug in hole. Notice the washer in the picture.

http://store.carvewright.com/product.php?productid=20563&cat=&page=1

The new z trucks do not have the slot on the left and the hole for the probe has been closed off..

[fwharris]

I bottomed it out and then backed it off a little bit.

So, there really is no tension adjustment to worry about other than to change the spring if the belt gets too loose?

Thanks for the help!

The tension adjustment screw should be tightened down completely. Do not back it off.

[bergerud]

Here is a picture of a thruck that does not need the washer. Let me say again, I think the only purpose of the washer is to give extra support to the casting which can sometimes be broken when the user adjusts the roller incorrectly. (The upper parts have extra support from the nearby thicker casting and is much stronger.) Now that you have left off the washer, you risk braking the truck just to put it back on.

[Boogie]

Here is a picture of a thruck that does not need the washer. Let me say again, I think the only purpose of the washer is to give extra support to the casting which can sometimes be broken when the user adjusts the roller incorrectly. (The upper parts have extra support from the nearby thicker casting and is much stronger.) Now that you have left off the washer, you risk braking the truck just to put it back on.

I've got the thin based model :(. I'm going to take your advice and leave it alone until it needs attention and then deal with the washer. Thanks for helping me through this. The support on this forum is very commendable.