4th attempt to carve, to many mistakes.

[kcc2012]

59210

I've carved this 4 times and each time I keep having serious mistakes. The first carve was myfault but the last three I have no idea whats happening. Everytime it comes to the edge route it keeps messing up. All of them cuts wrong and wont cut all the way around the project or it misses the board. Also it has put the edge in different spots on the board and this last one it pushed the board completely out and gave me a board removal error. Also I have noticed that several words are not geting spaces inbetween them and I noticed that on all the carvings even the first one. Im just at a loss because the project looks fine to me on the designer.

This plaque is important as a thankyou to the US Coast Guard for services rendered to the survivors of a ship wreck. They helped the survivors do a memerorial service and throw wreaths at the spot of the wreck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
Ambrose

[unitedcases]

I, like most will probably chime in, do all my routing on a router table and do all my cutting with a scroll saw. It is nice when the machine does it all but you are much faster. Just my 2 cents.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2

[SteveNelson46]

Ambrose

I had to change the width of the project for this layout. I think it might be better to use a table saw and a router table to do the cutout and profile. Edge routs are a PITA. I wouldn't use them unless you have to!

[JuicyCarp]

Ambrose,

I certainly lack the experience most of these guys have in thier little fingers, but looking at the MPC I think I might be able to add some valuable input. I use the CW to do edge routes on some projects, as I have yet acquired a router table.

Looking at the mpc I would like to know if you are adding the extra 3.5 inches onto each side of pattern. If not, change your board settings to 21 inches, then move your content to the center of the board where you want it. Take off the edge route. Using the square (or rectangle) tool draw a square around your pattern where you would like the board to be cut out, and then select the cut path tool to set your settings. After you have your cut path, highlight the cut path and click the "assign bit" button and select the decorative bit you want. This should work. If i have missed something, i am sure one of the guys on here will catch it.

[badbert]

I posted a couple weeks ago about this! http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?22268-Vector-Carve-using-raster

[kcc2012]

Thank you. Ill have to see if I can borrow a router table thats a piece of equipment I havent been able to get yet. Looks like I might be asked to do more plaques especially if I can get this one right so Ill be able to justify it.

I have a dremel tool and the router attachment that goes with it do you think that will work or is it more of a hassel?

Thank you Steve Nelson for the work on the pattern. Ill have to get some more wood and try it. My original length or 14 and width of 10 inches was to give myself the extra 2 inches of wood on the width since the widest wood I can get where I live is 12 inches (if I'm lucky). I live on an Island and only have one source for wood.

Thank you JuicyCarp I will take your advice into consideration as well. I know what you mean about having big fingers, my tri focals dont help much either.

Badbert thank you for the link to your posting. I will check it out as soon as I get off of here.


Ambrose

[chief2007]

59210

I've carved this 4 times and each time I keep having serious mistakes. The first carve was myfault but the last three I have no idea whats happening. Everytime it comes to the edge route it keeps messing up. All of them cuts wrong and wont cut all the way around the project or it misses the board. Also it has put the edge in different spots on the board and this last one it pushed the board completely out and gave me a board removal error. Also I have noticed that several words are not geting spaces inbetween them and I noticed that on all the carvings even the first one. Im just at a loss because the project looks fine to me on the designer.


This plaque is important as a thankyou to the US Coast Guard for services rendered to the survivors of a ship wreck. They helped the survivors do a memerorial service and throw wreaths at the spot of the wreck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
Ambrose

I edge rout quite offend - The trick I found is using mutli pass at a shallow depth. Also at times the board sensor will not pick up the carved region as it moves to start the routing and will throw a fault and not edge route. When this has occurred - I place tape across the middle of the board - length and width wise, then reload the MPC after deleting all but the edge rout.

When you do this you need the machine option set to "Jog to Touch" this allows you to jog the but to the place on the board you want it to touch - thus allowing you to have the bit touch a non-carved area to get proper board height.

I do have a router table, and use it as well - for me it just depends on what I am carving and the type of wood.

On your project - change the rout depth to .35 with a max pass depth of .125 and see how that works for you.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Honestly, Edge Route can be problematic just in the way the machine handles the board. I never bother with Edge route... it is a job BEST done on a Router Table.

The PROBLEM is that the board is NOT being held down to the table by 2 rollers and when it is only being held by one roller the board can TIP UP slightly, just enough to raise the board off the Brass Roller and then the board looses it's X Position and EVERYTHING from that moment on will be OFF and can DAMAGE the MACHINE if it tries to take TOO BIG of a bit out of the wood with the board NOW out of position...

I feel your frustration.... My thoughts on this are to let the machine do what it does best.... Carving and Cutting.... And this would be a good time to review Tips and Tricks on the LHR page. Learn to design projects so the board will stay under both rollers all the time. Cutting a project that is only being held by one roller is like riding a bike with only 1 hand.... Most of the time it works... but when it does not.. It's UGLY...

See my pictures posted many times on this issue of Stepping in the X Direction.

Good Luck,

AL

[chkorte]

I don’t use my CW for a lot of edge routing but I do use it for that occasionally. When I do I let the CW carve my pattern and then I take the board out of the CW, make sure it is sized and square and then use masking tape to span across the carving in the form of a cross for length and width for the CW to measure and then I put the board back in the CW and use the on board routing function to do the edge routing. The piece of tape spanning the length must be exactly on center. The piece of tape for the width only needs to be straight across and positioned under the board sensor. If the board is long enough that it comes out past the out feed table rollers you need to make sure the rollers are properly adjusted. Of course this only works for square boards.

[dehrlich]

What kind of wood are you using? I may be able to help you with the wide stock, although it is my experience (25 years building furniture) that it is best to glue narrower stock to get wide boards. Having said that, I LOVE wide boards! I got several in my personal stash that are 16-20" wide but they can be a challenge to work with. I am fortunate that here in Kansas wood doesn't move a whole lot, but even here wide boards like to cup and twist. Given the purpose for this project, I would be happy to glue up a board for you if you don't have the clamps and so on to do it. Let me know!

Oh, and to your questions, I wouldn't use the Dremel router thing if I was you. The dremel spins too fast for one thing. The other is those piloted bits, if you pause at all in your cut it will burn a dent in your board (know from experience). NEVER use a piloted bit that doesn't have a bearing as the pilot, just doesn't work. Router tables can easily be made with a piece of plywood and you'll use it a lot.

[chief2007]

Yes Al I forgot to mention that I use a sled or have 3.5 inches extra each end to stay under the roller

[badbert]

You can do "routing" (not edge routing) via raster carve. Makes for a long route time, but comes out beautiful!!

[kcc2012]

Thank You, Thank You, Thank You for all the input and advice. I finally got a good carve that I am happy with. I decided to make it a bit longer and wider so the letters had more space. I got rid of the edging decided it didnt really need it and I didnt want the headache of it. This gives me more of a chance to play around with the advice ya'll gave me on a project thats not so important. Heres a link to the story behind this plaque and why its so important http://www.uscg.mil/d17/cgcspar/docs/Phyllis%20S%20memorial%20brings%20closure.pdf.
As soon as I am finished I will post pictures. Thank you again for all your help and advice.

Ambrose