I really need help with this, guys...

[eastcutty]

I posted this in troubleshooting, and with 45 views, no one responded- has anyone experienced this, or have any insights?
I'm in a bind and can't afford the 'replace parts until something magic happens' technique- I have no income at all (awaiting disability) until I can carve the custom jobs awaiting the operational machine. Copy/pasted post appears below:

http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon1.png only solid blocks appear in upper display line, blank below
Hey, gang. I finally broke down and got a new board sensor after all the problems my other one gave me- a long story best left in the past.
Actually, LHR was back-ordered on these, so a re-man was sent. SUPER job on sealing it all around- do they come like that now, or did Laurie make sure they took good care of me? Also got and installed 14pin cable and related end boards.
I didn't get a chance to test it out, tho. Just before I shut it down for the last time before ordering parts, I got a few "power fluctuation" error messages, which would initially indicate failing power supply. Read the forums, checked Al's fave L2 coil (LOL) and couldn't find anything wrong. Checked all wiring and connectors, did everything I could find to try in forums. Didn't see another problem/question quite like this. Note that I do run off an extension cord- have to.
Here's the thing: I do have power, at least to some degree. I can't get anything to operate, but the display is on- if only partially. The only thing I can get is a solid line of blocks on only the upper display line, and that's it.
So...........my question is: even tho I got power fluc messages, does a partial display indicate power is sufficient to run, and the problem lies somewhere else? Since the machine won't take commands and shows only a partial display, could the keypad assy/control board be the fault? Between the 'power fluc' and 'block line' periods of time, I swear I heard a faint sound coming from the lower center-to-right-side of the keypad end as I was leaning up over the unit- sorta like a short zap, but then again, not. That location could describe either board. * It was a threshold moment between the two time periods (best descriptive terminology I can offer). Also, for the time being, I still have the top panel off with cut motor, cover switch cable, etc, disconnected but that shouldn't really interfere with just trying to test the display and/for ON/OFF functions, right?
Almost forgot! "Flash Machine Control Logic" (or similar) appeared in Flash Manager when I re-formatted the card, as suggested, in an attempt to isolate the problem. Anybody know what THAT means?
Hey, at least I tried everything I could think of first, and I offer challenging problems! (at least, to me, LOL)
Thanks in advance for any tips.

* Added later: Or the Controller board, for that matter.

Again, thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer.

[fwharris]

"Flash Machine Control Logic" (or similar) appeared in Flash Manager when I re-formatted the card, as suggested, in an attempt to isolate the problem. Anybody know what THAT means?

the easy part:
That is the firmware to run the machine, it is flashed (saved) to the card. Your card must of had an older version. You should always use the most current version.


So you got zapped while leaning over the machine. Static charge might of killed one of the components. Double check for any loose connections.

[eastcutty]

"Flash Machine Control Logic" (or similar) appeared in Flash Manager when I re-formatted the card, as suggested, in an attempt to isolate the problem. Anybody know what THAT means?

the easy part:
That is the firmware to run the machine, it is flashed (saved) to the card. Your card must of had an older version. You should always use the most current version.


So you got zapped while leaning over the machine. Static charge might of killed one of the components. Double check for any loose connections.



Thanks for responding, Floyd- knew I could count on you!
All advice offered was good, but already ruled out, sorry.
1) Been running on 1.186 since it came out 2) I already suspected I either static-charged a card or one just outright failed- but WHICH one is the question 3) pulled and re-installed all 3 underside boards to examine for over-heated components, loose connections, etc, all appear good with no obvious blown components, all connections clean and secure. 4) As to the flash control logic question: never seen that message before, even when knowingly running outdated revision.

[fwharris]

Missed the part about running with an extension cord. What gauge/rating is it? Have any other tools on the same line or circuit that it is plugged into? How about the neighborhood? Had a local carve having power fluctuation problems every afternoon when he was carving. Shop lights would dim at the same time. He found out that his neighbor was out in his shop during the same times. Had public service come out to inspect and being an older neighborhood the line transformer was being over loaded with the new additions.

[badbert]

If the card still works on your computer then it should be good!

[eastcutty]

Those are good insights, Floyd. I have considered the extension cord issue- here's that situation:
I live in a rented 2nd-story apartment with a big covered deck for a back porch, which has no exterior power receptacles. It is open to air/wind and ambient moisture, but is far from any rain exposure and remains tarp-covered when not in use. I live in SW VA where daily temps are mostly above freezing. It occupies its own professional quality tool stand with outrigger rollers. 2006 Rev A with newly upgraded complete 14pin cable setup and re-man Board sensor. (Fault occurred prior to conversion.) Power is supplied via corded window pass-thru setup. I have carved many finished and experimental/developmental projects with this arrangement with no power fluctuation indications at all. It's a heavy-duty indoor/outdoor cord run from an interior outlet. The line is shared with a Dremel and an occasional 3rd tool (sabre saw, sander, etc) but no two ever run at the same time. When carving, a back door pass-thru cord supplies power to peripheral tools in use- from a separate outlet on a different breaker.
I've swapped-out and checked all cords, connections, etc. It occurs to me that I have not tried to run from a different interior outlet- will try that, but I don't expect any change. My display/control issue happened suddenly and, so far, continuously after many setup change permutations. The only indication of approaching failure was a few 'power fluc' displays, then just the solid upper display line, no matter what I do, any time of day or night.
It seems possible to me that the Power Supply board may be at fault but there IS (at least some) power, OR.... the Display/Control board assembly may be at fault as control inputs are unheeded and the display indicates problem-only, no-text status, OR...the Controller board may be at fault because I'm suspicious of the first-and-only "flash machine control logic" readout on my comp as Flash Manager was opened when I re-formatted my card- again, 1.186 since it came out. The card itself works fine with the comp- loads, deletes, etc no problem.
If I had multiple machines, as was/is the intended plan, isolation of the problem would be a breeze.
If you can't think of anything else to try, PLEASE fwd to anyone else who may be of help who may/may not monitor the forums regularly.
I'm seriously broke and can't spare funds to purchase expensive boards on a 'see what works to fix it- keep the others as spares' program. Not just yet, anyway. I have several custom jobs awaiting my return to operation and I'm dying to get going.
Again, please fwd and thanks for your help.

[chief2007]

Those are good insights, Floyd. I have considered the extension cord issue- here's that situation:
I live in a rented 2nd-story apartment with a big covered deck for a back porch, which has no exterior power receptacles. It is open to air/wind and ambient moisture, but is far from any rain exposure and remains tarp-covered when not in use. I live in SW VA where daily temps are mostly above freezing. It occupies its own professional quality tool stand with outrigger rollers. 2006 Rev A with newly upgraded complete 14pin cable setup and re-man Board sensor. (Fault occurred prior to conversion.) Power is supplied via corded window pass-thru setup. I have carved many finished and experimental/developmental projects with this arrangement with no power fluctuation indications at all. It's a heavy-duty indoor/outdoor cord run from an interior outlet. The line is shared with a Dremel and an occasional 3rd tool (sabre saw, sander, etc) but no two ever run at the same time. When carving, a back door pass-thru cord supplies power to peripheral tools in use- from a separate outlet on a different breaker.
I've swapped-out and checked all cords, connections, etc. It occurs to me that I have not tried to run from a different interior outlet- will try that, but I don't expect any change. My display/control issue happened suddenly and, so far, continuously after many setup change permutations. The only indication of approaching failure was a few 'power fluc' displays, then just the solid upper display line, no matter what I do, any time of day or night.
It seems possible to me that the Power Supply board may be at fault but there IS (at least some) power, OR.... the Display/Control board assembly may be at fault as control inputs are unheeded and the display indicates problem-only, no-text status, OR...the Controller board may be at fault because I'm suspicious of the first-and-only "flash machine control logic" readout on my comp as Flash Manager was opened when I re-formatted my card- again, 1.186 since it came out. The card itself works fine with the comp- loads, deletes, etc no problem.
If I had multiple machines, as was/is the intended plan, isolation of the problem would be a breeze.
If you can't think of anything else to try, PLEASE fwd to anyone else who may be of help who may/may not monitor the forums regularly.
I'm seriously broke and can't spare funds to purchase expensive boards on a 'see what works to fix it- keep the others as spares' program. Not just yet, anyway. I have several custom jobs awaiting my return to operation and I'm dying to get going.
Again, please fwd and thanks for your help.

Power Supply is what is sounds like for sure - look at this thread and it might help you find the problem. Al posted pictures on the common fault of the power supply. http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?17811-Yeah-Power-Fluctuations-are-Fun!!!!!!-nope-not-really/page2&highlight=power

[fwharris]

I agree with Steve on it probably is the power supply, even more so since it is a 2006 rev a machine. I went through 2 power supplies on my machine with using the QC chuck. The third power supply had lots of extra goop on all of the components.

Also you said you have replace the 14 pin cable. Does your machine have the A907 upgrade? Easy to tell, does the wire harness from the key board side cover switch plug into the circuit card on the top or bottom of the card? If on top you have the upgrade, if on bottom you do not. If it is the old (bottom plug in) then the 14 pin cable will not work and using it can cause bad results...

[lynnfrwd]

I don't even see a machine registered to your customer account.

[lynnfrwd]

Eastcutty:

Go www.carvewright.com to Troubleshooting Guide > Machine > Trouble Turning on Your Machine > LCD Shows Black Squares.

[eastcutty]

It must have been to my other previous forum ID- airplay5162.
I've had this machine since 2006, I can give all serial #'s, personal info, etc to verify.

[Digitalwoodshop]

A few thoughts....

Power Supply is the main Suspect as posted above....

The 14 pin upgrade, did it include both circuit boards on either end of the 14 pin FSC Cable? The 14 pin Circuit Board has clips to hold the big cable from the computer.

The square blocks normally tell you that the Card is not plugged in. The Pins from the Computer that plug into the card can get contaminated with sawdust and not let the memory card to plug in all the way.... Remove the bottom after unplugging the machine and inspect the male pins of the computer.

AL

[lynnfrwd]

It must have been to my other previous forum ID- airplay5162.
I've had this machine since 2006, I can give all serial #'s, personal info, etc to verify.

I'm not referring to your FORUM account. I'm talking about your CUSTOMER ACCOUNT.

Please send the machine serial # to sales (at) carvewright (dot) com.

[eastcutty]

Yes, I'd seen that before. Card seems OK on comp- load, delete, re-format. I've considered the Controller Elec board, but the 'power fluc' errors have me wondering. Removed the board from enclosure for visual inspection as you could often find and isolate faulty/failed components by assorted heat-induced artifacts in the old days. No questionable components seen.

Did you find me in the system yet, or do you need info?

[eastcutty]

Really?
OK, no sweat.
Gimme a coupla mins.

I even registered it on THIS comp- I bought them together.

[eastcutty]

I HAD TO have registered it- to get my updates, etc.
Is the ser# the AH.xxx.xxx under the barcode on the sticker?

[lynnfrwd]

Did you find me in the system yet, or do you need info?

I know who you are...there is no machine on your customer account. Log in and look. You had an A at one time, but notes show that it was returned to Sears and removed from your account back in 2008. Did they send another? It hasn't been registered. (Makes me wonder what version software you are running.)

Also, you did not order and change out everything that makes up the A907 upgrade...only most of it. You probably have an original early batch "A-model" z-motor, that is not quite the same as the newer one that is included in the z-motor bundle (a907), which is the new model.

Do Step 3 in the troubleshooting guide, as we fear a short in your machine:

Check for an electrical short in the machine. Turn the machine off and unplug. Take the bottom panel off the machine and unplug the largest of the two ribbon cables from the bottom of the enclosed controller box (the controller is what the memory card slides into) and the 10 pin cable going to the X termination board. Turn the machine ON and see if the black squares vanish to reveal the menu text. If so, there is most likely an electrical short in the machine. Have the machine sent in for repair.

[eastcutty]

WOW, I forgot all about returning the first one as defective and ordering another as warranty replacement! I now recall wondering if they just gave me the same one back. I registered (or thought I did) the machine on this comp when I bought them together, and have been faithfully installing all upgrades as they are issued. (Still lament the passing of the Spiral Tool- bring it back!)

As far as the replacement parts- I ordered and replaced everything the Parts Catalog said was required to replace the now-obsolete 18pin ribbon cable. If the newer Z-motor was also required, I don't believe it says so. LATER: I'm looking at the Catalog description which reads "The A907 Z-Motor Bundle consists of a new layout of the Z-motor electronics board, 14 pin FFC cable and Head Termination Board. It is a modification that was made to the hardware during early manufacturing of the “A” model machines near the beginning of 2007. Later “A” models were manufactured, sold & shipped with the A907 already installed. If your machine is a “B” or “C” series machine, it was manufactured with the new A907 design and you do not need the A907 upgrade." So, I replaced everything required to replace the cable, but there's no mention of needing the entirety of the "A907 Motor Pack upgrade" as you describe, quoted below:
""Also, you did not order and change out everything that makes up the A907 upgrade...only most of it. You probably have an original early batch "A-model" z-motor, that is not quite the same as the newer one that is included in the z-motor bundle (a907), which is the new model.""

LATER: Sorry for delay- I was just double-checking and nowhere does it say that a new z-motor is required with the cable/boards upgrade. In fact, "Z-motor bundle", "Z Motor Bundle", etc returns no search results in either Service Parts or Service Upgrades in the Catalog! "A907" brings up SKU# MWM A2113 Cable and Guide Assy. The "Replacing the Z-motor Pack" bulletin doesn't mention a new motor, either. I'm then left with the presumption that, by habit, the upgraded ribbon cable boards got associated with the z-motors as a replacement when, for example, upgrading for CarveTight Spindles on an old machine, like mine. That's only speculation on my part.

I'll check the procedure noted above and let you know what I find out.
Thanks again for all of your past and present help!

[eastcutty]

Did the controller Electronics Board check as specified- still just bars. I think I tried that before, but I've checked so many things I lost track, so no harm in re-checking, right?
It was suggested here in the forums that if the memory card operates properly along with the computer and Designer, that it should be OK. Is that really the case? It would be sweet if all this was caused only by the $55 card and not by the $300 controller board, but can proper card operability be verified on-site beyond what I've already done, i.e. upload, delete, reformat, etc?. I find the one-time-only "flash machine control logic" message troubling in that I'd expect it to keep re-appearing each time I cycle the card-from-Designer-to-machine-and-back procedure. Can anyone explain what that message means? Someone had to program it into the firmware.

"If black squares still appear on the LCD screen it means that the memory card or controller electronics are probably faulty. Unfortunately it is impossible to tell which one it is unless the customer has an extra card. Send a Memory card (CWMC1) first and if that does not work then send a controller (A2065)."

This is what it's down to, I guess, but I can't afford to take the chance on even buying a new card (thus wasting money I can't afford to) if that's not going to be the solution.
Anybody got a spare card they're willing to send my way on a quick-loaner basis to verify one way or another? Many of you know me and my work. I can cover postage both ways and you can mark your card with whatever you like if you think I'd try to pull a switcheroo on you. You'd be really helping a brother out.

[eastcutty]

A few thoughts....

Power Supply is the main Suspect as posted above....

The 14 pin upgrade, did it include both circuit boards on either end of the 14 pin FSC Cable? The 14 pin Circuit Board has clips to hold the big cable from the computer.

The square blocks normally tell you that the Card is not plugged in. The Pins from the Computer that plug into the card can get contaminated with sawdust and not let the memory card to plug in all the way.... Remove the bottom after unplugging the machine and inspect the male pins of the computer.

AL

Sorry, Al, didn't see your post 'til just now.
Checked power supply board's coils with a meter and they seem OK, though I've been reading that the problem could be intermittent. Lotsa goop on 'em, tho. Nothing wiggles.
Cable upgrade is complete with boards. I considered the possibility of a dust-packed card connection but it checked out all spic-n-span with all pins straight and true.
Thanks anyway, Bud.

Here's an unrelated question to ponder: the cut motor's exhaust comes out thru the muffler, right? Then how's the blower duct behind the keypad supposed to blow the board sensor clear when that's effectively the inlet, or 'suck', end of the airflow path?
Talk amongst yourselves.

[SteveNelson46]

This may seem a little off-base but, have you tried to adjust the contrast on the LCD panel? It's the little black button just below the keypad. Just press it with the tip of your finger and turn.

[fwharris]

Here's an unrelated question to ponder: the cut motor's exhaust comes out thru the muffler, right? Then how's the blower duct behind the keypad supposed to blow the board sensor clear when that's effectively the inlet, or 'suck', end of the airflow path?

The inlet to the cut motor is behind the Y rail right at the cut motor....

[eastcutty]

the contrast is fine, I can see the blocks clearly, and I tried that right off the bat
thanks for the thought, tho

[eastcutty]

Ah, I was thinking it was set up like a centrifugal blower/pump- with one inlet, one outlet.
So you're saying the inlet is between the 'pumhead' and the motor, with two outlets- one to muffler, one to blower duct?
The machine doesn't let you get your hands in there to feel anything while it's running, unless you bypass safeties.

[fwharris]

So you're saying the inlet is between the 'pumhead' and the motor, with two outlets- one to muffler, one to blower duct?

Yes, the inlet on the motor (square opening) actually rests up to the frame just behind the Y rail. There is a small opening on the bottom side for the inlet to the motor..

[bergerud]

Here's an unrelated question to ponder: the cut motor's exhaust comes out thru the muffler, right? Then how's the blower duct behind the keypad supposed to blow the board sensor clear when that's effectively the inlet, or 'suck', end of the airflow path?
Talk amongst yourselves.

There are two fans back to back in the front of the cut motor. The front fan takes air from a square hole below and blows it out the muffler. The other pulls air in the motor vents, through the motor and out to that blower duct above the tracking roller. That duct is an exhaust.

[eastcutty]

I didn't realize there were TWO blower heads there, I'll look into that when I don't have more pressing needs.
Still, OK, that makes more sense, thanks. There ya go.
Never had the need to do anything up in that corner but Y-belt tension and disconnect cut motor power wires.

[eastcutty]

Did the controller Electronics Board check as specified- still just bars. I think I tried that before, but I've checked so many things I lost track, so no harm in re-checking, right?
It was suggested here in the forums that if the memory card operates properly along with the computer and Designer, that it should be OK. Is that really the case? It would be sweet if all this was caused only by the $55 card and not by the $300 controller board, but can proper card operability be verified on-site beyond what I've already done, i.e. upload, delete, reformat, etc?. I find the one-time-only "flash machine control logic" message troubling in that I'd expect it to keep re-appearing each time I cycle the card-from-Designer-to-machine-and-back procedure. Can anyone explain what that message means? Someone had to program it into the firmware.

"If black squares still appear on the LCD screen it means that the memory card or controller electronics are probably faulty. Unfortunately it is impossible to tell which one it is unless the customer has an extra card. Send a Memory card (CWMC1) first and if that does not work then send a controller (A2065)."

This is what it's down to, I guess, but I can't afford to take the chance on even buying a new card (thus wasting money I can't afford to) if that's not going to be the solution.
Anybody got a spare card they're willing to send my way on a quick-loaner basis to verify one way or another? Many of you know me and my work. I can cover postage both ways and you can mark your card with whatever you like if you think I'd try to pull a switcheroo on you. You'd be really helping a brother out.



BACK TO ORIGINAL TOPIC----
Does anyone have experience with a memory card vs controller electronics board failure scenario?
To refresh: solid line of blocks on upper display line at start-up with no control inputs possible.
Troubleshooting steps indicate it's not a short in the machine, so it's either 'the card' or 'the board', but which?
Referring to Quote, above, it could​ be the card but ""Unfortunately it is impossible to tell which one it is unless the customer has an extra card."".
Now, my card behaves perfectly normally when connected to the computer in Designer (upload, delete, reformat, etc) except for a one-time-only "flash machine control logic" message the first time I hooked it up to the computer after machine failure.
Does anyone have experience with this? I can't afford to spend what I don't have on 'possible' solutions when they may not be the cure.
Has anyone ever had a card that seemed to be OK yet was the cause for failure as in the above scenario?
Please relate any experience for insight.

[CarverJerry]

eastcutty, suggestion for ya, you can always send your card to someone who has a machine and see how it acts on their machine. Where do you live?

[eastcutty]

hey, now there's an idea!
Roanoke, VA
I'm kinda surprised I didn't think of that idea myself. DUH! (smacks self in forehead)

[Digitalwoodshop]

It is possible that you have a old 18 pin Z Motor Circuit Board hooked to a 14 pin FSC Cable.... The Pictures I posted earlier show the board with clips and now I post pictures of the old and new Z Circuit Boards. Look at them.... IF you have the circuit board for the 18 pin then that is likely your problem...

Now for the Cut Motor suction question... Like posted above, the Cut Motor has a 2 sided fan, the motor side sucks air through the cooling vents at the Brushes all the way through the Stator and Rotor and out the muffler... That is why I preach opening the cut motor when you change the Cut Motor Brushes and BLOW OUT THE DUST.... The other side or front of the fan sucks air from the computer area.

As for the Serial Number, you can also find it on the Computer in the Options section... Sometimes they don't match. In some of the early machines of 2007, some computers were swapped to retain the warranty longer by removing the warranty computer and installing a computer from a used machine running up it's hours not the warranty computer. I only have "A" machines and wondered if the "B" and "C" had different Computer Cables to prevent computer swapping. I blew through my Warranty Hours very quick, then got 3 used machines later.

In picture 2 I call the old board a 16 pin.... It's a 18 pin... my bad..

AL

[r1dd1ck913]

Well I guess my Z is older then both the ones you have posted because mine is different them both of the ones you pictured.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Post a picture of your board... My boards are all "A" versions.... You have a Beta unit?

[chief2007]

Post a picture of your board... My boards are all "A" versions.... what version do you have?

He has a beta machine

I have A and C machines, after upgrading the A to the 14 pin FFC cable and circuit boards, all parts have been interchangeable.

[eastcutty]

Sorry for delayed response- just got cable/internet back after snow.

I generally put great effort into including all pertinent details in my posts to avoid re-stating any over and over- but that requires the reader to carefully read the whole post thread to get them all. That said- I've already stated more than once that I did replace the two boards with new versions when I replaced the 18pin FSC with the 14pin upgrade, and ruled that out. I also explained that this issue occurred before those replacements went in, along with the beautifully-done* remanufactured Board Sensor- which was the main repair objective in the first place** when I ordered the parts.

Now, the cut motor blower question was inserted into the thread just to lighten the mood- for me, anyway. I'm stressing because I don't have a spare nickel to waste on false leads and replacing parts that won't fix my problem, as down-time interrupts my only source of income, which is sporatic due to the nature of my non-ordinary carving style. Every time I get a little ahead, something else goes 'down' and kills forward progress. When I get to running multiple machines, I'll always have 'Plan B's and can switch out parts to determine fault isolation but, 'til then......Aaaaack!
Anyway, I was basing my assumption on the outward appearance of the CW blower set-up resembling that of yer classic centrifugal air pump/blower- and since I've never needed to service the motor unit yet (tho I know new brushes are approaching the over-due point), I wasn't familiar with the internal ducting, or that it was even a double-blower.
A minor diversionary curiosity for mental health reasons, if you will. LOL

Now, finding the serial number is going to be a problem if it's not on a label/sticker because I can't see anything on the screen except the solid upper line of blocks on the display, and it won't accept control inputs, which, again, is the main point of this thread in the first place. I'm not gonna be too concerned about that right now, as I have bigger fish to fry, and there are no warranty issues going on. I'll worry about that some other time. Pick yer battles, right?

*= I was happily impressed when I saw the beautiful, quality job done on the re-man'd board sensor- circuit board and cover piece were held snug and sealed up all 'round with a perfectly neat little bead of, well, sealer. Obvious care and attention to detail there! I can't imagine anything getting in there or vibrating loose. Do they all come that way now?
My old one had to be draped in tape to keep the dust out, and needed to be redone from time to time. The board and optical components 'rattled' within the confines of the leads' pass-thru holes' dimensional tolerance, 2nd reason for taping.
**= My original one never worked properly- it was consistently 'weak' even at its best. ( I never, never, ever saw numbers higher than about 70 on it during sensor checks, yet I could still get it to run.) I figured as long as I could fool it into working with masking tricks, etc, I could get by with it even tho it was a regular source of headaches. Eventually I tired of the constant battle and decided to go ahead and replace the FSC Cable/Term Boards group along with it and save on shipping, since it had already torn across the leads on me at the cover plate outlet behind the truck. (I trimmed and re-dressed a new end, which worked great. I'll tell ya how later, if you're curious.)

[eastcutty]

Mine's an A machine.

[chief2007]

Eastcutty

You can format and load a project to your card correct and you running designer 1.185 or higher

If so try this - insert you card into the machine, turn on the machine, wait about 20 seconds or so. Then press 0 then press 8 then press enter and press enter again. The x motor should kick in and the belts should rotate backwards and then forwards.
If that happens your keypad is bad. If nothing happens power supply or controller.

[eastcutty]

Yes, I can load, format, etc and running 1.186.
I'll try your test procedure- how'd you come by that?
Remember, I noted that keypad was not taking commands, but will see if this combo enters.

Later-
OK, I tried it, but I got what I expected- nothing but the line of bars.
Even tho display does not change with command inputs, I took the chance that that particular key sequence might 'jog' something in the electronics without changing the display, but no soap. No inputs are acknowledged.

Thanks for trying- this is starting to feel like a game show.

[chief2007]

Users test that's with the newer software.

Easiest test to get to. It is the first test under the option

[eastcutty]

I'm curious to know how you knew that running belts would indicate bad keypad. LOL

[chief2007]

Not so much the keypad being bad, but the LCD screen. If the screen is bad, I can get you the link for a replacement that is backlit.

Have you pulled disconnected the connector on the back of the keypad and cleaned it out and plugged it back in?

Might have some sawdust back there

[Digitalwoodshop]

Time for a Hail Mary Pass... Or another WAG.... Wild AL Guess.... Just had a thought reading this set of updates....

What IF the 5 volt Logic Power is Shorted in the Board Sensor Cable through the Y Truck and is taking out the control and LCD Voltage....

See my picture and the TOP plug for the Board Sensor 4 wire cable. 2 are power + and - and the other 2 are Signal + and -.

Un Plug Maching: Unplug the Top Connector for the Board Detector and see if the machine comes back to LIFE.... when you plug it back in. If it DOES than the 4 wire cable has slid down the side of the cable track and shorted on the sharp edge.

If that does not work..... UN Plug Machine again: Next WAG, Remove the KEYPAD side of the machine VERY Carefully.... Some have reported RIPPED Cables at the Fold or Bend. Also Inspect the plugs going into the keypad and display.

Good Luck,

AL

[eastcutty]

OUCH Hate to tell ya, Al-

I metered out the board sensor for shorts and opens out of the machine and mounted- no faults found.
Visual inspection showed no pinches evident on insulation of any of the wires- past experience told me not to pull on ANY wires to get 'extra' length, there's NO such thing, and I had already removed the pinch possibility source (plastic cable/route guard) pre-emptively from tips I picked up from reading your posts to others. Never got pinched against the sharp.

The panel-end cabling is all intact with no pinching, sharp folds, tears, etc. All couplings/connectors tight, secure and clean.

I'll try your dis-/re-connect procedure with the board sensor cable one more time tomorrow, pretty sure I already did EVERY common-sense test at least once.