chuck wont ****

[revved_up]

that sounds like an xrated subj line but I have been trying to get my first project started I have worked through the y axis stall and a few other problems thanks to this forum but now I cant get the chuck to **** to insert the bit.

If it wasnt for this forum this would be a nightmare but you guys are very helpful and thorugh with your replies. Any suggestions on this one would be appreiciated

[Jeff_Birt]

Does it not move at all?

[revved_up]

the flange barely moves up

[Cliff]

Mine did the same thing when I first got it. A little 3 in 1 oil at the top of the chuck around the seam, once freed I use just a little after project cleanups. Also don't forget to put a light coat on you bit adapters before storing. Do not leave the bit installed between uses.

[Jeff_Birt]

That's normal. It does not move far (2-3 mm maybe). I find mine statys working better by appyling a bit of 3-1 Oil to a rag and wiping the inside of the chuck and outside of the bit holder (not much you don't want oil to drip on your wood).

[revved_up]

Actually just got it to "break" free have the bits loaded and its currently humming away all happily. The chuck doesnt stay in the cocked position though.

I started this project with a cup of coffee this morning and pretty sure it will be time for a beer when its over.

yes I am a little excited lol

[Digitalwoodshop]

Learned something new here... don't leave the bit in the machine when done. Lightly lube the bit assembly chuck and lightly lube bits before storage to prevent surface rust. My bit is still in the unit from the first and only test cut. Things to do list.... First thing in the morning remove the bit and lubricate.

Did order a pleated cartridge for my dust collector, re thinking the idea of sucking the chips out of the wood shop and out to the back room. At the same time sucking all the heat out of the shop.... Didn't trust breathing the fine dust from the cloth bags, I will trust the pleated filter from Penn State more to re circulate the warm air within the wood shop.

Still must suck the heat out of the Laser Shop removing the smoke from the Laser Engravers. That's not good.... But I guess I wear a jacket... But can't take a chance of the laser mirrors from getting fogged with moist cool air. So much to learn....
Thanks !!!

AL

Still doing the Sublimation thing.... Finished the Fire Department tag order tonight and the Assistant Chief drove over at 10 PM to pick it up.

I did order some composite decking in green, tan, and 3 other colors. Want to try it for signs on the carve unit. It's Correct Deck, like the Trex I have worked with before. This is something new with hard wood filler vice soft wood filer in it. The info said it routers great with sharp bits. We shall see.

[The Bard]

The quick change is not designed to stay in the "cocked" position.

you are supposed to have to hold it open while you insert the bit.

sorry for any confusion on that part.

[revved_up]

thanks Bard my manual makes it sound like it stays cocked, cant get it to release the bit now but that was last night and late at that. its a new day and between this and the superbowl its going to be a fun day

[Lin]

Bard, Quick question here...I don't have my machine yet and won't have till I save up the $$...but the Quick change adapters the the machine uses...are they set up the same way as the quick change tap adapters that are used in the machining industry? They have small ball bearings on the inside of the adapter? Fi so I would think using 3-in-1 oil would evenually gum them up...the oil would cause fine particles of the saw dust to hold onto the bits and the interior workings of the adapters...Do they not make an oil the the dust won't ahere to quite so easily?
Lin

[autobody]

Bard, Quick question here...I don't have my machine yet and won't have till I save up the $$...but the Quick change adapters the the machine uses...are they set up the same way as the quick change tap adapters that are used in the machining industry? They have small ball bearings on the inside of the adapter? Fi so I would think using 3-in-1 oil would evenually gum them up...the oil would cause fine particles of the saw dust to hold onto the bits and the interior workings of the adapters...Do they not make an oil the the dust won't ahere to quite so easily?
Lin

Being a body guy, I see lots of people use WD and other oils for door latches on vehicles. This is bad as it draws and holds dirt. I use Heavy Duty spray silicone on them and it doesn't attract or hold dirt. I've used this on my bit adaptors with no problems so far. Just make sure not to spray the stuff any place your going to do spray painting ( like a paint booth) it will contaminate the spray area and you'll have problems with fisheyes.

~Mike

[Dan-Woodman]

Don't get no silicone on the wood either, it won't accept finish or stain.

[The Bard]

no idea about that...

the point is you barely put any on and you wipe it off right afterwards, there shouldn't be enough to build up..

however that's what the developers of the Carvewright tell me, so if they're wrong, I really don't wanna know hehe.

[Charles M]

The quick change is not designed to stay in the "cocked" position.

you are supposed to have to hold it open while you insert the bit.

sorry for any confusion on that part.

Mine stays cocked about 2/3 of the time. I found it necessary to use the tool to remove my bits and after they drop out the chuck stays up. I then insert the new bit and pull down on the chuck to lock it. Is mine not behaving properly?

[Jeff_Birt]

I have found that if I keep the chuck clean (wipe with rag slightly dampend with light oil) and also wipe down the bit holders it will release fine and stay cocked. I do this maintainence about every other carving job.

[ou1954]

Being a body guy, I see lots of people use WD and other oils for door latches on vehicles. This is bad as it draws and holds dirt. I use Heavy Duty spray silicone on them and it doesn't attract or hold dirt. I've used this on my bit adaptors with no problems so far. Just make sure not to spray the stuff any place your going to do spray painting ( like a paint booth) it will contaminate the spray area and you'll have problems with fisheyes.

~Mike

WD-40 is not a lubricant in any way. It's mostly kerosene. It was "developed" as a rust preventative by some folks linked to Convair in San Diego to protect Atlas missiles during storage and shipping. Use it as you would use any other low volitity solvent. By the way, try spraying a common nail with it, leave the nail in a damp area and watch it rust.:rolleyes:

[hotpop]

I've been involved with the electronics industry for 20 years. I also learned that silicone spray should never be used near electronics as it will migrate into the circuitry and solder joints.

The CW machine has several circuit boards, some hidden. It would be best to keep any silicone sprays away from the machine.

[andes]

ok, I know that this is more about the bit not inserting, but I was carving last night and it was my first real project, all went well until the project finished and I was cleaning up; went to remove the bit and it will not rcome out. I read eveything I could find on the forum, tried for hours to get it loose, but was unsucessful, had to finally give up and leave it in. I will try agin this morning to see if I can get it out, but it seems as if the chuck just will not lift and release the bit. I REALLY NEED SOME HELP WITH THIS ONE.

Thanks

Andes

[oldjoe]

What I do is at the beginning of every project I take a cotton swab with 3-1 oil on it and wipe down the inside of the chuck, I also put a light coat on the bit holder before I insert it when it is time for the machine to carve with that bit. Also about 3 project or so I take canned air and blow out the chuck and put a drop of oil on each flat of the chuck where you would put a wrench on it to remove it. ( Put a rag over the sand paper belts before you do this ;))
I inspect the bit adapters for burrs and marks and use a fine file to clean them up.
When removing a bit from the chuck I sometimes have to rotate the chuck around until it hits a spot where it will lift up easily and the bit drops right out. Like there are only a couple spots where it can be lifted. I have 90 hours on my machine and I have yet to use the bit removal tool that came with the machine.

[DocWheeler]

Andes,

Have you always just removed the bits with your fingers before? If so, you might have forgotten the bit-removal tool - just checking.

[andes]

Doc, I have used the quick change tool, but find it easier to use my hand. But in this case I used both methods and it will not release.

Andes

[andes]

Oldjoe,

I did clean and oil the chuck and bit before use, but I didn't use the air, will have keep that one in mind. This only my second time using the machine, and I've had issues with this since day one. Then first time was not being able to insert the bit, now it releasing it. The chuck as always seemed stiff and hard to lift.

Ande

[ChrisAlb]

Hi Andes,

Sorry to hear about the bit problem. This was taken from a post of mine for someone with a similar situation. Sounds to me like impacted saw dust/chips...(usually is)

Hope it helps.
************
Now this is where small hands and about 3 more wrist joints would be nice but, hold up pressure on the collar while (Gently) tapping the rim of the collar up with something. (I use a 5/8 closed end wrench) but anything you can fit and swing in there. I tap (while holding up pressure) the right, left and front edge of the lip and then rotate the chuck and repeat the process.

You may have to do this several times but if you feel it start to move up at all, push the collar back down and repeat.

After, assuming you do, get the bit out. Use what Al and I call the slingshot to clean the impacted saw dust/chips out of the chuck. Lift the QC up and let it "snap" back down. You'll need to do this several times. Basically until no more "stuff" falls out. It should begin to move more freely as you do this. Once you get it moving freely, wipe the inside clean and I use a small amount of silicone spray on the chuck. I spray it (while turning the chuck) between the QC and chuck at the top. Keep working the QC until it moves easily then wipe off any extra silicone.

Good idea to place a rag over the belts for this process.

Chris

[andes]

Thanks Chris, will do.

Andes

[andes]

I would like to thank everyone for helping me resolve my issue, and providing good guidence for future use/cleaning.

Andes