help again

[aokweld101]

I am still having ploblems with my cut motor I installed brushes and a board censor last night I checked all the censors and checked out ok accept the cut motor said it was running but it wasnt. can someone give me some insght as to what I might have done wrong I have changed the cut motor brushes before and had no problem. I also could hear both cover swithches click on the cover when closed.

[earlyrider]

Check the wire connections at the motor.One might be loose.

[chief2007]

Agree on the wiring - you may have to pull the motor and open it up as well. Try this first - If you have a volt/Ohm meter you can do a continuity test. Have the brushes installed - place the leads from the volt/ohm meter on the main wires going into the motor, check your continuity. If you do not have continuity then you will need to open the motor and look for the problem.

[SteveNelson46]

Hearing the click of the switches doesn't mean they are good. You need to check continuity through the switch. A multimeter works good and you can buy them at Harbor Freight for < $10.00.

[badbert]

There could be a bad spot on the armature (rotor) of the motor. Try spinning the motor by hand (turn the chuck) a few times.

[dunracin]

I am having the exact same problem. Did you get your's up and running?

[chief2007]

I am having the exact same problem. Did you get your's up and running?

He did get back up and running - Had a loose wire in the motor.

[Digitalwoodshop]

So we will start at the Cut Motor... It has a black and a white wire. On the other end, under the machine, the X Termination Board uses Q1 Transistor and C1 Capacitor to turn on and off the motor with a signal from the computer through a photo coupler, the 6 pin IC Chip. So a signal from the computer turns on a LED or light inside the Photo Coupler. The Light turns on a transistor that feeds the Q1 big transistor. The Light isolates the signal from the computer hence it is called a Optical Coupler.... So back to the Q1, it switches HOT or Black Wire through the center Transistor Lead and a outer lead. As seen by the THICK Traces like a common light switch. This Black and White Wire comes up from the X Termination Board and into the little paper junction Box behind the right side Y return pulley. So the Black Wire goes direct to the Black of the Cut Motor. Now we have a Right side Cover Safety Switch. It has a black and a white wire. The White Wire of the Cut Motor and the White Wire FROM the X Termination Board pass THROUGH the Right Side Cut Motor Safety Switch. EITHER WIRE.... It is just into the switch on one wire and out on the other.... This switch should be checked for Continuity or if it is working.


Things that can go WRONG and prevent the Cut Motor from Running.....


1. Cut Motor Brushes too short

2. Cut Motor Brushes binding inside the holder and are not touching the copper commutator.

3. The C1 Capacitor has Snapped off one lead due to vibration. In my Hay Day... I snapped 3 of 4 of my machines running hard... With the ROCK... Never again...

4. The Wires are connected and I have heard that they have come UN PLUGGED....Especially if you did not tuck the wires into the back corner and the Z Motor Cooling Fins SNAG them on the RETURN trip from the Bit Plate of the Y Axis and UN PLUG one wire.

5. A Wire has broken off inside the Cut Motor... OR was out of place and SHEARED off by a Moving PART...

That about covers it....


AL

[fwharris]

I sent Butch a set of motor brushes......