45 degree miters for a box?

[keninar]

Is there a way to use the CW to cut 45 degree miters for a box - such as the following 4-sided image?
57798from 4 sides like this:
57799

Seems like the use of the 45 degree centerline bit would establish the correct angle - but the cutting length is only 3/8"

Could one use a "dual line cut" to reach the needed angle length?

Yes - could cut these on the tablesaw - but would be nice to use the criticality/repeatability of the CW.


Anyone have any thoughts on this? Or am I simply off-base?

Thanks.

Ken

[eelamb]

Ken here is one method to do that using a PTN of a 45 deg angle I created.
See images. I place the pattern on each end of the board at length I desired. Then placed a rectangle with xero depth between the two angles.
For the PTN in the mpc do not adjust the width, but make the height the size of your board you are carving. In the example I used a 6" x 6" board.
If you choose to use this, I would run a test carve to see how it works out. I did not carve this.

And remember to add the extra 4" each end and add extra width. In the later I would also place a zero depth rectabgle on the ends of the angles so it does not cut into the board you will be cutting out. The 7 deg of the bit will make the board you want smaller on the corners if you do not use the zero depth rectangles.

Edit, I would use optimization on the bit for a better smoother carved angle.

[keninar]

Thanks, Eddie!

I figured there was a way to do it - just don't have the skills yet to create things, such as your 45 degree ramp. Will give it a run in the shop tomorrow.

Thank you for the guidance!

Ken

[Dan-Woodman]

Once again , this used to be available through the keypad under Bevels and miters. Why doesn't it work now? Used to be you could put in a 1/4" roundnose bit and do bevels right from the keypad. You may still be able to do miters ( angle like a picture frame) from the keypad.
Daniel

[keninar]

Eddie, Thanks again for the 45 angle pattern.

Took a couple of test tuns at it with the following results:

Run#1: Noticed a "shoulder at the top of the incline prior to carving 57878 so I increased the Height of the pattern from 100 to 20057879
That allowed the incline to run across the entire surface - but resulted in a 50 degree angle. (Should have seen that coming!)

Run #2: Recut the project with the pattern at the standard height - got this profile:57880 When matched up with a mate - for a corner - one gets this:57881
So I see I have a bit more material to relieve to get the inclines to mate.

Run#3 One option would be to add a carved region to relieve the needed material at the top of the incline 57885 This will allow the incline to mate as desired.

However, is there a way to extend the carved incline span to reach the top of the material? 57886Certainly not required, but would make the project "cleaner."

Any thoughts on this or what I've erred on or overlooked?

I appreciate your sharing your expertise.

Thanks again
Ken

[eelamb]

Try making the rectangle with zero depth come right to the edge of the 45 on the top and see if this takes care of the problem. Also is your board .75" thick?
Another thing is use a very thin shim for where the bit touch is on the board when setting up. (thinest you have)

[keninar]

Yes, material was .75 thick. Should it be .5 instead? That is the height of the incline.

[eelamb]

Make sure the 45 is set to the designed depth of .75. It should not be .5. When I place the 45 deg pattern on my board it shows .75, and with the cursor on the top section it shows 0.0 as the depth. Alfter I placed the zero depth rectangle on it, there seems to be a drop off of 0.001. Thus a shim will take care of that. I bet the bit when it touches the board is leaving an indentation, thus it thinks the board is not as thick. The shim will solve that, any thin piece of metal should do, something that can not be dented by the bit touch.

[keninar]

OK, Pattern has depth of .75. Height 100. Angle 0. Size .775 x 4.0

When placed on the board, the top section reads .217. Bottom of incline reads .750 Zero cut rectangle in the center reads 0.00

I understand the shim approach, but can you help me understand why my top section reads .217 where yours read 0.00?

Sorry for being so slow on the uptake.

Thanks for your patience.

Ken

[fwharris]

Thought I would give this a try using the sweep corner tool. The mpc has the sweep plus the pattern I made from the sweep. On the pattern right side notice the angle do to the tapper of the bit.. Not sure if the grid will show up in the mpc but I set it at 0.750"

[eelamb]

Are you resizing the pattern? The one I provided is 6.0x1.0x.75. If you resize you can only resize the length (6.0) if you resize the other (1.0) then the angle will not be right. Resize by grabbing hold of the yellow dot on top or bottom. Grabbing the corner will resize both width and length. resizing using the menu bar where you type in the size will resize both. You do not want to do that.

NOTE pattern has to be 1.0" wide or it will not work. One inch is to handle the .75 depth and 45 deg angle, with .25" flat on top for placing the zero depth rectangle.

[eelamb]

Floyd, your looks great, and will work too, as long as only the tall (length) is changed and not the other (,75 ).
Can you make it into a pattern so the license is not required to use it?

OPPs I see you did, thanks.

[keninar]

OK, guys, Now I feel really stupid. Yes I resized the pattern (both axis) for a test - not once thinking that it would have the effect it did.

And you warned me about this, Eddie.

Once again, Thank you for your patience - the pattern (with a 1.0 width) now functions as it should.

As I have said before: this forum is a life-saver. Perhaps someday I'll grow up enough to return the favors.

ken

[fwharris]

Floyd, your looks great, and will work too, as long as only the tall (length) is changed and not the other (,75 ).
Can you make it into a pattern so the license is not required to use it?

OPPs I see you did, thanks.

Eddied, thanks!! So I did it correctly then??? It took me a few tries and after setting the grid to .75 and drawing a test angle on the board surface I was then able to transfer that to the sweep tool.

[eelamb]

Glad it is working for you Ken, and FLoyd yes it was done right. I did notice the width is .711 on the pattern. This would have to be changed by the user to .75 or the angle would not be right. From your original it was .75, guess it got changed when it was made into a pattern. I like the fact that yours does not need the zero depth rectangle to eliminate the cut. When I get more time I will look into correcting mine, if possible.
Now off the my wood supply, boards I need for carving are about 16" down in the stack, so I will be moving a lot of cedar boards to get what I want. :D

[bjbethke]

I use this bit to make the cuts for box sides, It should work with the CW unit. I use my REVO Legacy unit to do that, it only takes a few minutes to carve that.

[badbert]

I am trying to rap my head around this. Here is my theory. If you create a gradient from black to white, regardless of size. You should then be able to resize it to match the thickness of the wood. And this should make perfect 45s every time. For example a 1" wide gradient for a 1" board, and a .75" inch gradient for a .75" board. No?

[eelamb]

Yes Bert that will do it as long as it is a true gradient, and not stair stepping.

[CNC Carver]

Glad it is working for you Ken, and FLoyd yes it was done right. I did notice the width is .711 on the pattern. This would have to be changed by the user to .75 or the angle would not be right. From your original it was .75, guess it got changed when it was made into a pattern. I like the fact that yours does not need the zero depth rectangle to eliminate the cut. When I get more time I will look into correcting mine, if possible.
Now off the my wood supply, boards I need for carving are about 16" down in the stack, so I will be moving a lot of cedar boards to get what I want. :D

Eddie you know you could always buy the 16" of boards ontop also to make wonderful projects. :)

[eelamb]

CNC Carver, I already own the boards on top. I have three racks, each about 24" high, 20" wide and 12' long. These are full, first is walnut from 8 to 12" width, next is cedar 6 to 10" width, and third is red and white oak 8 to 12" width, with all boards 8 to 10' length. Course the smaller stuff is on top, so if I need the wider boards, I have to remove the smaller width boards. I keep taking out, but I am always buying more at surplus auctions. Had to turn down one load a few months back 50 cherry boards 8' by 10", each board went for $3.00 each. I am now watching for another auction like that one.

[CNC Carver]

Sounds like you have a great supply of wood and getting it at great prices.