How would you do this?

[mfdchief]

I have steel pole barn siding in one of my shops that has a ribbed profile and would like to make some baseboard that will match the profile so it fits flush. Can I use the scanning probe to duplicate the profile on a small piece and then invert the image? I haven't used the probe yet so it would be new to me. If anyone has done something similar, I would appreciate a lesson. Thanks.

Mark56657

[bjbethke]

I have steel pole barn siding in one of my shops that has a ribbed profile and would like to make some baseboard that will match the profile so it fits flush. Can I use the scanning probe to duplicate the profile on a small piece and then invert the image? I haven't used the probe yet so it would be new to me. If anyone has done something similar, I would appreciate a lesson. Thanks.

Mark56657

You can do that by drawing a grayscale image. I do things like that with a program called Wolfie's Gradient Designer. The new LHR programs should work also.

[mfdchief]

Thanks for the responce BJB. I guess I am not that familiar with the software and was hoping that the probe would be an easy way to get all the measurements correct. Your examples look close to what I'm looking to do but I haven't tried to actually draw the pattern myself. The ribs are 5/8" high and then 9" on center with a couple of smaller and lower ribs in between. This may have to be a trial and error project. :rolleyes: Thanks again.

Mark

[DickB]

You can also use the probe as you described. I think you'll find that to actually carve the baseboard will consume a lot of machine time.

[lawrence]

+1- I love my Carvewright- but baseboards are moulder territory- you can get custom knives made.

http://customouldingknives.com/

Lawrence

[brdad]

If it were me, I think I would rout (probably with a router and template, but it could be done with the CW via vector carve and a 1/4" or 3/8" straight bit) the profile on the edge of a board and have that trim off the baseboard that just spans the gaps. It would be much quicker and easier and still look like it was custom fit. You could route some designs into the baseboard as well if you wanted to be fancier.

[SteveNelson46]

I made this example (attached) using the "Extrude" tool from the new 3D Pattern Modeling Suite. I didn't know the exact dimensions of your example but, I think you can get the idea. If you select the retcangle and then double-click on it you will be able to see the profile.

[mfdchief]

Thanks to all of you that have given suggestions,

DickB, I thought about the machine time and would probably only be able to do about 6' at a time to give it a rest.
brdad.. I like your design in that I would just be routing the top piece, great idea. I was just going to slap some 1x4 to hide the expansion gap along the edges of a floating floor I am putting down and wanted it to fit somewhat flush.
Steve, thanks for your idea too, I have not played with the extrude feature at all and it may be the way to go. This may turn into a winter project where I can experiment with your different ideas.
I wish I had more time to play with the machine but unfortunately since I got back for the conference in Houston, I have only been able to do a couple of jobs. Thanks again guys.

Mark

[James RS]

If it were me, I think I would rout (probably with a router and template, but it could be done with the CW via vector carve and a 1/4" or 3/8" straight bit) the profile on the edge of a board and have that trim off the baseboard that just spans the gaps. It would be much quicker and easier and still look like it was custom fit. You could route some designs into the baseboard as well if you wanted to be fancier.

You could do it this way with a slight twist, use the CW to carve one board the rip into strips for the piece in brdad's suggestion