I wish I'd had it then.

[autobody]

I carved this with dremil type tools last year. I wish I'd had the carvewright back then to scan in the carving. It's to large and to deep to fit in the machine now. I carved this in layers and glued it together. It took me 116 hours to carve these to door panels for a DVD cabinet.

http://www.PhotoShare.co.nz/PhotoShareGallery1/100503/107003/DVDCab7667_L.jpg
Can you think of anyway to scan this, short of cutting it up? The doors are 16.5" wide and the carvings are a little over 1½" deep.

Thanks ~Mike

[Jon Jantz]

Mike, that is awesome...

You don't need no stinkin' carvin' machine!!

One thing about it, you can't do the undercutting with the Carvewright so there will still be things you have to carve by hand...

Again, great job!!

[autobody]

Thanks Jon,
That's pretty much why I bought the machine. I like the look of my carvings but they take a lot of time, stress on the eyes and hands. I thought if I could use the machine to do the "rough" carving I could finish up the details by hand.

Thanks ~Mike

[Hanna]

That is AWESOME:) And the finish on those is fantastic as well. Jeepers, you are a machine!

[Aaron B]

Simply WOW.

[GregMelton]

HOLY MOLY! Very nice! So did you use live models? And if so, where did you find a horned beast that would sit still that long? If you know what I mean! :twisted:

I can only imagine what you will be able to do with your skills and a machine to help get the "rough" stuff out of the way!

Could you make a casting of the actual carving part (being extremely careful of course not to damage the original) then scan that in? Looks like most of the detail is not undercut and should cast very nicely. Dental algamate would be able to get all the detail without damaging anything. Then make a positive from that using something like Hydro Cal or Ultra Cal (turns to stone!).

I buy supplies like that from http://www.monstermakers.com under the store link. Real nice people to work with.

[BoardSilly]

If you have the original drawings you worked from, they could be converted to 3D to scale and carve with in the future. Unless you did the carvings freehand... in which case I will bow down and pay homage to you at every sunrise and sunset. If you have the drawings and want to share them I'll take a look at converting them to 3D. :D

[cajunpen]

Mike, I just looked at you web site - I have to take my hat off to you. You ARE a Carve Wright. I just wish I had a little of your talent, I'm really impressed, not just with your carving ability - but your photography talents and woodworking skills. You are THE MAN!!!!!

[liquidguitars]

Wow very nice! love it.

[Greybeard]

Mike, you may have come across some of my ideas on alternative 3d scanning, but I think for your door panels I would suggest that you use your scanner like you have just done with the small square carving on another post.
This will obviously mean several scans to cover the whole area, but it's possible to stitch together several into one.

While there are progs that will do it automaticaly - digital camera software for example, to make panoramas- it's also possible to do it by hand.

I've done this for several years to produce copies of fan leaves which can be up to 18" x 12", so if you would like me to have a go let me know, and I'll give you details.
Regards
John

[autobody]

If you have the original drawings you worked from, they could be converted to 3D to scale and carve with in the future. Unless you did the carvings freehand... in which case I will bow down and pay homage to you at every sunrise and sunset. If you have the drawings and want to share them I'll take a look at converting them to 3D. :D

For these carvings I did a trace of some pictures I was sent in an email, I assume they were paintings from somewhere on the internet so I would guess there could be some issue with copyrights. I figured for myself one cabinet in my own house wouldn't be an issue, though I don't think it would be in my best interest to post the pictures. Thanks for the offer though.

I am curious, however, how would you convert a drawing to a 3D image. I'm finding it very difficult to work even "3D" graphics images into aceptable 3D renderings in the CarveWright software. I found and downloaded a couple of supposed 3D renderings and find that they are not truely 3D when rendered. Certain elements that should be higher than others are not actually higher.

Thanks ~Mike

[autobody]

Mike, I just looked at you web site - I have to take my hat off to you. You ARE a Carve Wright. I just wish I had a little of your talent, I'm really impressed, not just with your carving ability - but your photography talents and woodworking skills. You are THE MAN!!!!!

Thanks Bill, I appreciate the kind words.

~Mike

[autobody]

Mike, you may have come across some of my ideas on alternative 3d scanning, but I think for your door panels I would suggest that you use your scanner like you have just done with the small square carving on another post.
This will obviously mean several scans to cover the whole area, but it's possible to stitch together several into one.

While there are progs that will do it automaticaly - digital camera software for example, to make panoramas- it's also possible to do it by hand.

I've done this for several years to produce copies of fan leaves which can be up to 18" x 12", so if you would like me to have a go let me know, and I'll give you details.
Regards
John

John, I think there would be several problems with using a flatbed scanner for these, the biggest obsticle is that the wood is curly maple so I don't think the reflection would be even.

The small applique I scanned was a solid color (tan), it was also less than ¼" thick. My door carvings are over 1½" deep so even if it reflected evenly I believe my scanner would render the farther sections out of focus.

As for the stitching I actually do have several panorama stitching programs but for flat scans I just use Corel Photo and overlay the pieces and combine.

Thankyou. ~Mike

[Greybeard]

Hi Mike.
The next suggestion then is something on my "to try" list.
It's to use the digital camera, but with a "light tent" set up.
It was suggested to me as a way of producing an even lighting condition, rather than a directional one that normal lighting produces,and so get a better grey scale/depth relationship.
Put simply, you build a tent around both the object and the camera so that the light is diffused as evenly as possible and coming from all directions.
This is something I plan to try asap.

Regards
John