Clear Board Sensor

[nuchie]

I keep getting "Clear the Board Sensor". How do you clear it and where is it?:confused::confused:

[fwharris]

Take a look at this.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fhgFx0cjDYs&feature=player_detailpage

Also while your on youtube book mark their link for all of the great videos..

[nuchie]

Take a look at this.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fhgFx0cjDYs&feature=player_detailpage

Also while your on youtube book mark their link for all of the great videos..

Great. I tested it and got nothing but 0's. I guess this means I need to replace. :(:( Have any other thoughts.

Thanks,

[chief2007]

Remove it and take a look. It might just have a build up of dust in it.

[nuchie]

I removed it and it looks like dust under the film. I cleaned it and replaced it but still no result. Can I remove the film and try it, will that hurt my machine?

[chief2007]

Yes that can be done but go easy. You can actually take the sensor apart and clean it.

If your under warranty, call LHR and get a replacement

Do a search on the forum for board sensor, there will be some pictures etc.

[chief2007]

Read through this thread - here is the link - There are some photos of the board sensor there so you will have a good idea of the assembly.

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?20736-Board-measurement/page3&highlight=board+sensor

[nuchie]

I keep getting "Clear the Board Sensor". How do you clear it and where is it?:confused::confused:

I took the Sensor off and peeled the clear film off, cleaned it and tested it, IT WORKS. What can I use to cover it with? I can't get the clear film back on.

[chief2007]

What I did was get some thin clear plastic sheeting from a craft or hobby store, cut a small rectangle and then glued it to the sensor ensuring to keep it off the LEDs

You can use it without the plastic if you have too, just means cleaning it really good after each carve.

[nuchie]

What I did was get some thin clear plastic sheeting from a craft or hobby store, cut a small rectangle and then glued it to the sensor ensuring to keep it off the LEDs

You can use it without the plastic if you have too, just means cleaning it really good after each carve.

Thanks, I got it back on. Will see if it stays. If not will use clear plastic.

[SteveNelson46]

You also might try some of that clear packaging stuff that some items are packaged in. You know, that clear plastic that looks like it was molded to the part and takes a pair of scissors or a knife to remove. Cheap tools like screwdrivers, etc sometimes come packaged in it.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Next Time.... IF you use a knife you can cut down the back side bump on the back of the detector. Then the clear window just slides out. Clean it and apply masking tape to catch the edge of the plastic.

Some have had sawdust blow up in inside between the 2 LED's in the tube that the Photo Detector looks down through for reflective light reflecting off the board. It's the same clear plastic as the covers on the Gear Boxes.

In the early days the green boards were not glued to the black holders and when a QC was bad the vibration would snap off the LED's. Boards are glued now and very trouble free.

And remember a Zero reading can be a Shorted Wire when pulled down and shorts to the knife edge of the frame.

AL

[Ropdoc]

Hello all, There has got to be a better fix for this. Why is it that Carvewright has not come up with a way to seal the LEDS? I understand getting dust outside. But inside? Every machine has this issue. I am now down because of this. And I lost one of the screws inside removing the sensor. I am so frustrated right now. I am starting my first set of 10 clocks to sell and the machine dies after 1.

[chief2007]

You can remove the clear lens to clean out the sensor, just make sure to clean in between carvings, if you are careful, you can take the sensor apart, clean it, reseal and reassemble and be on your way.

Magnetic pick up tool should help find the screw. Good reason for laying a towel or a rag inside the machine

Good luck - just go easy and be careful

[Ropdoc]

I thought of the rag just as the screw dropped. LOL

Just so we are clear. I am talking about removing this clear lens.
57373

[Digitalwoodshop]

Correct... BUT if you PRY it out from the bottom you could damage it... It is better to cut down the back and remove the flap on the back then it slided out in that direction. IF that is the original sensor from 2007 it could be one that was not glued like the later sensors.... Just a very thin coating along the edge of the board holding it to the black holder.

It is very easy to blow dust up inside the center photo detector if you run the sensor without the plastic lens.

Your LED's may fall off in your hands when you take the back flap off.... Showing you the problem.... Are you still using a QC? A worn QC will vibrate and snap off the LED's. Look at all the snapped off board in my picture in the early years.....

Since I got a ROCK NO MORE PROBLEMS.... So if your selling Clocks... Get a CarveTite or Rock for more Trouble free Carving....

LHR did address the problem... Glued the sensor and came out with the CarveTite.

Good Luck,

AL

[Ropdoc]

Hello Al,

I now have the "C" version. After all this time with that issue I would have thought Carvewright would completely address that issue. I have a very early "A" version with that same problem.

I was a mechanical designer for a military manufacturer. I have 3 key products that went thru sand and dust exposure test. If there was a way for super fine dust to get in it would have. And this would constitute a "failure". This was unacceptable. My products also went thru water submergen. No leaks allowed. My point is that if this machine MUST be able to see then spend time of keeping the ability clear. I understand wipe the outside clean. But inside is a failure to me. And having a customer disassemble a sensor so they can clean it is an embarrassment to the designer or engineer. I say that because I have been there. But I did learn for the mistakes, fixed them and did my best to not repeat.

I am only trying to give advice. Take out of this what you will. I love the product. Just frustrated that I am not able to rely on it.

Dave

[chief2007]

I had same problem on my C machine, removed the clear lens cleaned the sensor out and put a new one lens on made from clear plastic used for modeling

No issue since.

[Ropdoc]

I will try that. How much is the sensor assembly? I will buy one so if I screw up the original I have a fall back.

[chief2007]

Look on line under parts, at Carvewright pricing is listed there

[Digitalwoodshop]

The Screws are Metric and can be found at Ace the Hardware Place....

[chief2007]

I will try that. How much is the sensor assembly? I will buy one so if I screw up the original I have a fall back.

Here is the link to the board sensor. $23 plus shipping so order anything else you need as well to take advantage of the shipping.

http://store.carvewright.com/product.php?productid=16177&cat=254&page=1

[bluecobra]

Take a look at this.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fhgFx0cjDYs&feature=player_detailpage

Also while your on youtube book mark their link for all of the great videos..

Just had my first clear board sensor error and found your reply during a search.
Easy to follow & much appreciated, thanks!

[fwharris]

Just had my first clear board sensor error and found your reply during a search.
Easy to follow & much appreciated, thanks!

Your very welcome Mark!

And thanks!

[Ropdoc]

Here is the link to the board sensor. $23 plus shipping so order anything else you need as well to take advantage of the shipping.

http://store.carvewright.com/product.php?productid=16177&cat=254&page=1

Thank you for taking the time to find this. I appreciate it.

[jeeptrix]

Thanks to the information on this thread I have found out why my sensor isn't reading the workpiece. Using option 7 I got a reading of around 60 on the workpiece.

I use pre-finished drawer fronts from a furniture maker for my projects. Some have dark stains that I want to keep. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to fool the sensor so it will read the size of the board and start the project?

[bergerud]

Masking tape on the board edges where the sensor looks. (A few layers if it is cheap masking tape transparent to IR.)

[jeeptrix]

I will give that a try tomorrow. It is 32 deg. in the shop now so I will wait. Thanks.

[mtylerfl]

I will give that a try tomorrow. It is 32 deg. in the shop now so I will wait. Thanks.

Yep, your shop needs to be at least 55 degrees to assure the machine operates properly. I use two inexpensive 'radiator-style' oil heaters to keep the shop warm (an uninsulated 2-car gargage). Temp seldom dips below 68-ish degrees in winter. Saw a ton of them stacked in an aisle at WalMart for only $38 each yesterday.

[aokweld101]

I'm having issues with my board censor and its a recondtion board censor I hav'nt gotton back to the machine but it's reading way high into the numbers 239 on the censor i think that i have a wire pinched in the sleeve on the harnes make sure the harnes is not pinched to make sure u don't have to do it twice..as I said before it's the dumb things that i do that make me smarter...

[jeeptrix]

Yep, your shop needs to be at least 55 degrees to assure the machine operates properly. I use two inexpensive 'radiator-style' oil heaters to keep the shop warm (an uninsulated 2-car gargage). Temp seldom dips below 68-ish degrees in winter. Saw a ton of them stacked in an aisle at WalMart for only $38 each yesterday.
If that is the case I won't be able to carve all winter. The shop is 2400 sq feet and it would take a lot of Walmart heaters to attack it. The wood stove helps. Time to break down and buy a 220v heater.

[mtylerfl]

If that is the case I won't be able to carve all winter. The shop is 2400 sq feet and it would take a lot of Walmart heaters to attack it. The wood stove helps. Time to break down and buy a 220v heater.

That's about four times the square footage of my workshop! Nice...you are making me drool, now. :)

Perhaps you could get a couple of the heaters and place them near the machines to keep 'em comfortable...or, build some framed (insulated) walls around the CW or to create a localized 'heated area'.

[bergerud]

I live in the great white north and my garage is cold. When I first got my machine, it had trouble reading the card in the cold. LHR said my shop was too cold. I have not had any trouble since. None of my other power tools are bothered by the cold, so, just what is it about the carvewright that cannot stand the cold? It cannot be grease, it is not that cold. Just what is it that might get damaged if it is too cold?

[mtylerfl]

I live in the great white north and my garage is cold. When I first got my machine, it had trouble reading the card in the cold. LHR said my shop was too cold. I have not had any trouble since. None of my other power tools are bothered by the cold, so, just what is it about the carvewright that cannot stand the cold? It cannot be grease, it is not that cold. Just what is it that might get damaged if it is too cold?

Yes, grease (especially white lithium) and dissimilar materials...plastics, metals, nylon and so on, can be affected by a cold temp in the shop. The main problem I personally noticed immediately my first attempt at operating the CW in an unheated shop, was inconsistent head pressure. The head would not always align well on the four posts in the cold (perhaps they contract at differing rates??) The solution came when I warmed up the shop to at least 50 degrees F min. operating temp recommended by CarveWright (well, that used to be the recommendation...now they say don't run the machine in an environment under 40 degrees and no higher than 110 degrees). But...Warmer than 50 degrees is better (but less than 110)! General rule of thumb...operate the machine in a temperature/environment that you yourself feel comfortable in. The machine will behave better and you'll have fewer problems.

Another common (unnecessary) wintertime Tech Support issue is a Check Board Sensor error. Solution: Warm up the shop! Operating the machine in a shop below 40 degrees can cause the error. I do not know why the cold causes that error, but it can and does.

I've spoken with people who have had tracking problems when operating in a 'too cold' environment. I believe this is due to the head not applying an even pressure to the board (same thing I noticed myself), which leads to the board feeding through catty-whompus, binding, breaking bits, breaking x-gears and ruining a project. Again, a comfy shop will be your best bet for your machine and peace-of-mind.

There's probably a number of other reasons not to run in a cold shop, but those are the only ones that come to my mind at the moment. :D

[bergerud]

Thanks for the response MT. You make some good points. The head pressure clutch I had not thought about since I disabled that as soon as I got my machine. (Too flaky and inconsistent. It is not hard to get a feel for head pressure and in fact, the pressure you want really depends on size and type of board.)

I do worry about the plastic x drive gears being more brittle and under more stress with things being a little stiffer. But I think the main reason LHR says to avoid the cold is the electronics. Some of the Chinese components probably cannot handle or were not tested for variations in temperature.

This is all really just speculating. I have had no real problems so far and will continue to carve in the cold until I do!

[Digitalwoodshop]

As an electronic guy it is not so much the cold that causes the problems with electronics as the moisture... Ever notice the condensation on your tools when you start to heat the shop... that same moisture inside the computer or power supply can cause shorts in the component leads. Imagine the optical coupler or the Q1 Transistor that controls your cut motor being shorted on when you don't expect it... So it is not really the cold but the Humidity condensation.

We have all seen Frost on our windows as kids... Imagine that same frost on a Circuit Board, one that has 115 volts AC on it... Frost or Frozen Moisture can conduct electricity.

As for Head Pressure, the 4 smooth rails that the head slide up and down on normally have a oil or grease coating. Being it is a sleeve bearing and the coldness will cause drag or make it harder to crank the head down. Since the machine has the Crank Calibrated for a Smooth working Gear Train and Linear Sleeve Bearings, the coldness can cause the head to not be cranked down tight enough as the crank will stat to click before head pressure is reached due to the sluggish grease. Plus you have the grease on the Vertical Jacking Rods and two 45 degree gears under the machine that most likely have sawdust mixed in the grease.

It has nothing to do with what country makes the electronics.:-(

http://support.radioshack.com/support_tutorials/weather/weather-23.htm

AL

[bergerud]

It has nothing to do with what country makes the electronics.:-(
AL

That was supposed to be a joke. But it is true that transistor characteristics are temperature dependent. I had an HP ($600) calculator which would only work if I put it in the freezer.

[lynnfrwd]

That was supposed to be a joke. But it is true that transistor characteristics are temperature dependent. I had an HP ($600) calculator which would only work if I put it in the freezer.

And you figured that out HOW???....never mind ;) ;)

[bergerud]

I meant that my Chinese comment was sort of a joke. (Which I now regret!)

[lynnfrwd]

I meant that my Chinese comment was sort of a joke. (Which I now regret!)

I wasn't talking about the Chinese comment. I wanted to know how you figured out the calculator would work in the freezer!! I'm curious as to what other interesting places did you troubleshoot before discovering the freezer was the right atmosphere!? LOL!!!

[bergerud]

Oh. Well it would stop working if I held it too long in my hand. As it got worse it had to be put in the freezer.

[mtylerfl]

Oh. Well it would stop working if I held it too long in my hand. As it got worse it had to be put in the freezer.

I was curious how you found that out, too! Thought maybe you lived farther north of where you are now, or you were working at an ice cream factory. ;)

[bergerud]

Ok now I am going to break all the rules. The next time it freezes here, I am going to carve ice.

(Caution: Just reading my posts may void your warranty!)

[badbert]

This is a trade secret for recovering data from a failing hard drive. The bearings seize. SO you put them in a freezer for a few hours, and then install them in a working computer. Then back up the data as quick as you can!!

[mtylerfl]

Ok now I am going to break all the rules. The next time it freezes here, I am going to carve ice.

(Caution: Just reading my posts may void your warranty!)

I actually had a guy call me a couple years ago to ask if he could do ice carving with a CarveWright!

A friend of mine has a business in a nearby town that DOES do ice carvings for high-end resorts, restaurants, weddings, etc. using a large ShopBot CNC - apparently the Bot is not sensitive to cold!

[Digitalwoodshop]

A Sign Magazine had a great story about carving Ice... I did post on it a few years ago... If you removed all the electronics from the bottom of the unit, I bet you could make a Ice Carving on a Sled.... but what a mess.... water in the machine....

AL

[CNC Carver]

So that is why they keep the server room at temperatures that resemble a freezer.


This is a trade secret for recovering data from a failing hard drive. The bearings seize. SO you put them in a freezer for a few hours, and then install them in a working computer. Then back up the data as quick as you can!!

[Digitalwoodshop]

As a Navy Fire Control Tech working with Radars and Computers on Ships, we had very frigid working conditions. We would get dirty looks going to the Mess Decks or Galley for lunch to eat wearing our green heavy jackets and the Engineers working in 100 Degree plus Fire and Engine Rooms looked at us.....

I had heard the Hard Drive Freezer Trick too.... I am almost done doing a On Line Carbonite backup of my files... Peace of Mind...

Speaking of Electronic Parts made overseas... If you search out "Bad Caps" and go way back a few years you will find the story of some Electronic Engineers working for a Japan Capacitor Manufacture. They were junior guys working on a new formula for the electrolyte between the metal layers. They left for a job in Taiwan with the Formula... The Taiwan company started making Capacitors with the new formula... They didn't know that some changes had been made to the formula in Japan after they left... What happened with the OLD formula the Taiwan Company used is that as it aged it broke down and made a Explosive Gas.... Hydrogen I believe... The Result... Electrolytic Caps made with the BAD formula started EXPODING..... When I worked at Sony in 2000 at the Service Center on Philly, I had a open invitation to work in the other Sony Building after Hours changing known bad caps on hundreds of computer monitors.... The Bad Caps are Still Showing up in the market today as millions were made and dumped on the market that still find there way into cheap electronics...

They bulge then explode.... See Dell gets in trouble... This KNOWN problem and they still use bad caps...

http://www.guardian.co.uk/technology/blog/2010/jun/29/dell-problems-capacitors

http://www.burtonsys.com/bad_BP6/story3.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDGjWOabJ2E


AL

[bergerud]

I just fixed a free dead 21" lcd monitor which had the BAD CAPS problem. Was great for me. Cost me $3 for 5 electrolytic caps.

I really am going to try to carve ice. With the dust cap and wet/dry vac, I do not expect any water in the machine. Next freeze here and I will wheel the machine outside an go for it.

[CNC Carver]

Take a video I'd love to see that! WOW!!

[mtylerfl]

I really am going to try to carve ice. With the dust cap and wet/dry vac, I do not expect any water in the machine. Next freeze here and I will wheel the machine outside an go for it.

Maybe clear Cast Acrylic would be better...it will look about the same and it won't melt!

[henry1]

I second that love to see it