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Hoheboe1
10-10-2012, 06:02 AM
I was wondering how to use the 1/16" straight bit on 1/4" board. Do I just use a scrap carrier board to get me the 1/2" thickness required?
Does anyone have a picture of some detailed work using the 1/16" bit?
How does it work for cutout. Any issues with breaking the bit?

lawrence
10-10-2012, 08:07 AM
yes, a sled is requiired. Instead of a picture, how about a video. I made one up about a year ago and it is here. Be patient, the cutout happens (and enjoy the music!)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8s81QWZn-8A

I have since moved to a different technique with my sled and do not requre tape to do the carve- a picture is here
http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?21574-my-improved-sled

No breakage, but I did things in 2 passes and haven't cut out all that many (about 25)

Lawrence

mtylerfl
10-10-2012, 09:24 AM
I was wondering how to use the 1/16" straight bit on 1/4" board. Do I just use a scrap carrier board to get me the 1/2" thickness required?
Does anyone have a picture of some detailed work using the 1/16" bit?
How does it work for cutout. Any issues with breaking the bit?

Hello,

Please read the following Tips & Tricks for info on cutting thin material (less than 1/2"). It's not complicated - very easy to set up (see pages 4 and 5). Here's the link...

ISSUE 12 September 2008 – Designer 1.131 New Feature Highlights (http://www.carvewright.com/downloads/tips/CarveWrightTips&Tricks_Sept08.pdf)

Hoheboe1
10-10-2012, 01:02 PM
Thanks for your help on this. I knew I seen an article on this but didn't know which one.

Digitalwoodshop
10-10-2012, 04:38 PM
I use a PVC Board 1/2 inch and thin strips of double stick tape and a 1/8th inch End Mill to cut my plastic tags. For Me... The trick is to design all the Cut Paths as VECTORS just by selecting the BIT. I don't do cut path as the tabs can fracture and I need a perfect edge... The Tape works for me.. You could select Multi Pass when selecting the bit too for the 1/4 inch thick material....

The FINAL and FANTASTIC Trick shared by LHR is to Design the project with a 1/16th bit in mind for positioning. THEN select every cut vector and change the bit selected to the 1/4 bull nose... BUT.... Load the 1/16th bit... THIS tells the machine to stay in 1st gear for the WHOLE CUT.... IF you had left the 1/16th inch End Mill bit in the selection, the machine would cut curves in 1st gear and long runs in 2nd gear or a faster feed rate..... I found this to sometimes PUSH the WOOD or in my case the Plastic Sheet... As the Speed in 2nd gear was TOO fast for the ability of the bit to cut the plastic.

Works GREAT for ME... I use a 6 inch long End Mill Bit that is designed for a Star 912 Rotary Engraver cut in half to fit the ROCK Chuck. It has a short bit.

Another tip that would be useful here came from a Dearly Departed Carver who shared with me his work with the "Key Chain" Font or Typeface. He made small wooden key chains with this font and the TRICK was to set the DEPTH to just leave a SKIN on the bottom of the board and that HELD together the small parts preventing a binding and snapping of the wood.

For my Tags, I use Place on END and design in the 4 inch dead area and select to NOT stay under the rollers.


AL