MDF+centerline+epoxy...

[bluecobra]

I'm making a workbench with a 3/4" MDF top that I plan on carving my business name into. I'll be putting about 2 or 3 coats of polycrilic to keep the centerline edges sharp during carving. My issue is that I don't have a planer or jointer, how can I trim the epoxy flush to the surface after it has cured? What if I use clear shelf liner on it during the carve, use a squeezgee type tool to level the epoxy and then remove the shelf liner?

All thoughts & comments appreciated.

Thanks!

[Digitalwoodshop]

Belt or Pad Sander.

AL

[gumbo]

A cabinet scraper should work well for you also

[Jeff_Birt]

I like to seal MDF with Zissner (sp?) sanding sealer, then carve. It soaks into the MDF and provides a nice clean edge to the cut. Best of all you don't need to do any heavy sanding/planing after you apply it (it soaks in). If anything a light hand sanding will do.

[lawrence]

+1 to Jeff's suggestion on using shellac as a sealer. I like Zinsser ok, but find that I get less "yellow" hue if I mix my own shellac from super-blonde flakes. I like these

http://www.shellac.net/SuperBlondePic.html

I don't get any issues with freshness this way and it adds very little color.

As far as scraping- I like card scrapers and hand planes for leveling the surface out after filling.

Lawrence

Lawrence

[bluecobra]

Thank you all for your great comments & suggestions! I've never worked with epoxy in this manner before so this is all new to me.

[bluecobra]

I finally got around to doing this. This wasn't meant to be perfect but more of a skill builder for me.

The bench top is 48" x 20". I live in a second floor apt so space is limited, hence the smaller size. Bench top is made from 4 pcs of mdf; one bottom piece and 3 top pieces. The top middle piece is 14" wide to fit in the CompuCarve. I could have split the top into 2 pieces of 10" but didn't feel comfortable having a seam run straight up the middle of the top.

The carve was filled in with epoxy tinted with blue pigment, belt sanded flush, assembled (with wood glue and screws) and then sanded and sealed with 6 coats of semi-gloss Polycrylic.

The pictures tell the rest of the story...

[badbert]

Shazaam!! That came out sweet!! What did you fill the letters with? That is one sweet looking top!

[bluecobra]

Shazaam!! That came out sweet!! What did you fill the letters with? That is one sweet looking top!
Thanks for the compliments Bert! I updated my post to include that info.

[Smoken D]

Very nice! It came out great.

[b.sumner47]

Great Job ! That really looks clean and sharp.


Capt Barry

[ladjr]

Great Job ! That really looks clean and sharp. DITO bARRY

[eelamb]

Beautiful workmanship, and technique on carving and finish.

[badbert]

Thanks for the compliments Bert! I updated my post to include that info.

What kind/brand epoxy?

[bluecobra]

What kind/brand epoxy?
Bob Smith Industries Slow Cure (30 minute) epoxy. You only want to mix up about 2 ounces at a time or you'll end up with a run away reaction that will turn it from 30 minutes into 5 minutes lol.

[bluecobra]

Thanks Smoken D, Capt Barry, Leo and Eddie! It is people like those on this forum that challenge me to push the bounds of my creativity and expand the horizons of my imagination.

[jaroot]

Turned out real nice! What did you dye the epoxy with?

[bluecobra]

Turned out real nice! What did you dye the epoxy with?
Thank you!
I used Castin Craft casting epoxy resin opaque blue pigment dye. You can get them in a variety of colors and transparency. There is also a pearlizing powder too. These are aimed towards casting epoxies, those that they use in making jewelery, etc. I don't know how well it all will translate over to regular epoxy.
As you can see, the blue dye worked well. There were no soft areas or deterioration.

[jaroot]

Thanks for the info!