Machine does not make such a project ..

[gdservice@gmx.de]

Hi there! As written in the title, my milling machine not as I will. I did Project and uploads on katridg, then I start maschiene, punf for punk do what you want me to display of machine. And start milling ot the right position, so do not how I did in the project. I did a test text to full lenge my board. And what did my machine? Machine cuts across. I know not what I macje wrong. How can I set machine? Or machine already set in the factory. I Tried naturally in Inch and Metric values ​​Europeische.
Help me the zulösen.
Georg Huels

[lynnfrwd]

7 inch rule? Staying under rollers?


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[cnsranch]

You're good, Connie....

[Digitalwoodshop]

WELCOME !!!!

177.8 mm Rule of Wood....

What Country are you in? Guessing Germany? Of the 27 countries I have visited in my Navy days, missed Germany.

I am guessing you just got a machine and have updated the software. Read the forum as you may have a bad install of the program update. Some updates require a un install first.

IF I understand you correct, the Bit cut through the wood in the Y Direction???? Could have been the bit did not touch the Bit Plate properly.

Find the Tips and Tricks on the Carvewright.com site and read them. Lots of good info learning the machine.

AL

[gdservice@gmx.de]

Hi! Thanks for the reply. Yes, I'm from Germany. But I am a Russian living in Germany. Someday you been to Russia? I think that was because the Russian you would like the former military did not let unattended. I think enough about politics. We are not at war. I think the one who programiroval Mainboard car did not consider the fact that the car must also shift from inch to Santimeter and back. And I think that I am not one who has a car in Europe. And the fact that the car is not dokontsa zaprogramorovanna - exactly. You, as a former military man, if I understand correctly, you should understand this. If you launch a projectile into a target, and she popodaet in another goal, then it is not an order. Either to blame or your gun. And hello to everyone from me that we are Russian not so stupid as you think. We can also proud of its advantages even while living in Europe.

[gdservice@gmx.de]

....... By the way, I can send you all the pictures and installation of the machine and what I'm doing and what came of it ........

[gdservice@gmx.de]

5597355974559755597655977

[dbfletcher]

You actual board will need to be at least 17" long otherwise the machine will try to scale your project down so the board will be under both rollers at all times. Generally it is recommended to always add at least 3.5" to each end (rule of 7").

edit: Whoops.. should have read down the thread before posting. Looks like Connie nailed it on the very first response.

[TerryT]

Также можно изменить от дюймов в сантиметры. Просто измените ваши предпочтения в программном обеспечении.

Also it is possible to change from inches to centimeters. Just change your preferences in the software.

[lynnfrwd]

I believe there may also be a function under Options to make machine show metric. Not sure what the sequence is.


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[lynnfrwd]

Georg

Either put bigger board in or don't select stay under rollers.

Warning..If you pick the don't stay under rollers option you may see snipe or worse...break a bit.


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[gdservice@gmx.de]

Ok, tomorrow I am writing another test results .......:roll:

[Digitalwoodshop]

Yes, being a former Military Man I do understand some of that. My Work Partner when working for the SONY Repair Facility near Philadelphia, Pennsylvania was from Russia. Excellent Technician. I have been to the Black Sea in the early 80's.

So to review what has happened.

You designed a project on a board that was about 10 inches long. That is small for the machine as the distance between the 2 rubber rollers on top of the Cutting Head press down on the board and hold it to the sand paper belts. The distance between the rollers is 7 inches and 3.5 inches from each roller to the bit. It is important that the rubber rollers hold the board down tight to the sand paper belts. IF the board is only being held by one roller as it cuts the board a few BAD things can happen.... 1. The Board can tip up slightly and cause the cutting bit to cut deep into the board the distance that the board tilted up. 2. When the board tilts up the brass roller that is near the back of the keypad and keeps track of the physical board's position in the X or Length Axis. When contact is lost, the sand paper belts move the board until the correct reading is found. While the board is moving but NOT moving the brass roller this causes the project to fail as the board will no longer be where the computer thinks and cuts will be wrong.


All of this is explained in the Tips and Tricks on the CarveWright site. http://www.carvewright.com/2010CWweb/learn/tips.php

So it is all about the 7 inch rule of wood.... The goal is to design a project and use a board, sled, or carrier board that lets BOTH rollers hold the board flat to the table. It is similar as riding a bicycle, 2 hands very safe.... 1 and and you can ride but can easily FALL.... 2 is better.... Your in feed and out feed table need to be level too.... IF they are too high or too low the board is not supported properly.

Now lets talk about Scaling.... As you load your project with a 10 inch long physical board and have a 10 inch long board in Designer that is your design. As you set up the project at the machine the machine will measure the length of the board and ask you a question? "Stay Under Rollers" You can answer 2 ways.... Yes, Stay under rollers OR NO, Do Not Stay under rollers. Lets take NO first.... IF you cut this project after selecting NO to stay under the rollers and the physical board is the same length as the designer board it will cut the SIZE you want. The DOWN SIDE is that most of the time while the project is cutting, the 10 inch long board is only being held flat to the table by 1 roller. As mentioned above... This can let BAD things happen as the board not being held flat to the table and tipping up causing a line or deeper cut by the bit OR even Snapping the Bit.... Loosing contact with the brass roller can snap the bit too or even snap the Z Truck housing....

Now is you select YES, Stay under the rollers and load a Physical Board 10 inches long and have the same 10 inch Designer board then the Computer is going to need 7 inches of wood to be able to stay under the rollers ALL THE TIME while cutting. To GET this 7 inches of PHYSICAL BOARD the Computer will take 7 inches from the Physical Measured Board loaded in the machine. This will leave you with in essence, a 3 inch long board. The Computer will then ask you? Do you want to Scale The Project DOWN to FIT what is left of the Physical Board that is loaded.... IF you say YES to this question you will get the EXACT RESULT you have posted in your picture....

YOUR project was cut with YES, Stay Under the Rollers and Scaled down the ART to 3 inches.....

So how do we fix this or prevent this and still make very efficient use of wood....

The first is to just load a 17 inch long physical board, use place on Center, and YES, Stay under Rollers... The project will cut PROPERLY BUT.... You will have 3.5 inches of WASTE WOOD on each end of your Physical Board. I did this for YEARS... I also SAVED piles of the 3.5 inch cut off boards.... At Christmas I place them on a Carrier Jig with masking tape and cut Christmas Ornaments from the left over 3.5 inch scraps. I also make many Black Bears as they sell well to our tourists....

Another way to do your project is to change the design.... On the Right Side of the computer screen in Designer. That is the head or front of the physical board and the brass roller is on the top of the screen for orientation. I draw a 4 inch rectangle.... I use the 8 inch rule of wood rather than 7 as with 7 the edge of the board is moved to the very peek of the rubber roller.... By using 4 inches or the 8 inch rule of wood, the board edge only gets within 1/2 inch of the tip of the roller. I then design my project to the left of the 4 inch block on the board. When it comes time to load the board I load a 6 foot board or something longer than my designer project board. I also use PLACE ON END rather than Place on CENTER.... I do this for 2 reasons... 1 is that the board measures TWICE in length when you use Place on Center. And 2, by using Place on END or CORNER if the board is wider than needed, the machine measures from the head of the board and only until it see's enough board length that is has enough.... So for a 24 inch long sign using a 6 foot board the computer does NOT care that I have 4 feet of board left.... It knows it has ENOUGH to properly make the project.... In my case the machine will not care if I select to stay under the rollers or to NOT stay under the rollers as the board is longer than required.... I normally select to NOT stay under the Rollers as when I designed in that 4 inch block at the right side of designer I gave the machine 4 inches to stay under the roller and with a longer than required board the back roller will stay under wood at all times....


After this project is cut, you will need to cut 4 inches off of the head end of the board AND cut the 24 inch sign project from what is left of the 6 foot board. You save the 4 inches of wood on the back end of the board as it is still attached to the WASTE length...


So I have another trick to make Frugal Use of WOOD.... I use Masking Tape and TAPE a SCRAP piece of 4 inch long wood to the end of my 6 foot board on the HEAD end.... When the project is done, I remove the 4 inch scrap and use it OVER.... I then cut the 24 inch sign from the 6 foot long board and have made FRUGAL or FrugAL use of the wood.... See Pictures....


Another trick is to design a Carrier Board or SLED with a SCRAP Block already attached to the Carrier Sled. See the thin Plywood or Hardboard Jig with the Bear Clock. The Scrap is attached to the Jig and a block the same size is drawn in Designer so no cutting in that area. NOTE that this Jig has NO SIDE RAILS.... A second Scrap Block is attached on the back side of the Jig with the Blank in between. VERY Frugal Use of Wood.....


Another Trick is to use a SLED with SIDE RAILS.... A Blank of wood can be put in this jig. I usually draw rectangles and place them on the upper and lower edge of the board in DESIGNER letting me know this is my working area between the upper and lower and right rectangles. I have used this Carrier for Christmas Ornaments. Not the Santa Cut Path outline in the base of the jig, a slight depth problem during one cut. Know you can use a Carrier Board or Sled and STILL use the Cut Path Function... Cut Path cuts all the way through the project board leaving tabs on the bottom. So if your Carrier Board is .25 inches and the project board is .75 thick and you have a Cut Path... The Computer is going to see a 1 inch thick board and is smart enough to ask you?... Cut Path "BOARD" as in the 1 inch it is seeing or "PROJECT"? as in the thickness of the project board IN DESIGNER.... Select Board and the machine will either FAULT or tell you TOO THICK to cut.... It will NOT proceed as 1 inch is TOO THICK.... .8 will cut...(I think) but not 1.0. So a Jig and board of .8 and you could cut the bottom out of your Carrier Board / sled.

So the proper selection is "Project" and the machine will cut the Cut Path on your Carrier Board or Sled properly.


I hope this HELPS get you carving properly and happily..... WELCOME !!!!!

Read Tips and Tricks as it will help....

Good Luck,

AL

Pictures:

First 4 are using a Carrier Board for Efficient use of wood a carrier board has NO Side Rails.

Second 3 are a Sled with a set of Side Rails able to put a block of wood anywhere on the Sled and using Place on END just measure from the Head of the Board to the blank and know it will cut properly.

The Last Picture was the peek of my Craft Show Phase when people STILL had money to spend.... I have not done a Craft Show in 2 years. Note the Christmas Ornaments cut with the SCRAP 3.5 to 4 inch blocks on my Sled, 3 blocks at a time.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Here are more pictures to help you see how easy it is to make FrugAL use of Wood... Attaching a scrap block of wood to the head of the board to be removed later...

Good Luck,

AL

Pictures:

Picture 1 shows the Designer ART with the 4 inch rectangle drawn on the RIGHT side of Designer as a DEAD AREA that is the Scrap Board and see the Board LENGTH in Designer is just longer than the Bear... BY using a LONGER Board the Rear stays under the Rollers.

Picture 2 the Carved Bear and I flipped the board SCRAP end for end and attached the 4 inch scrap for VERY Efficient use of Wood... FrugAL...

Picture 3, NOTE Scrap Taped to BOTH Ends of the board.... I keep a 3/8 Dowel at my machine, when measuring length with the taped on scraps they sometimes slide up and loose contact with the brass roller. I use the dowel pushing down through the flex Shaft Slot on the scrap board to hold it to the brass roller. Once it is measured the lifting joint never reaches the roller and cuts fine.

Picture 4 and 5 making Clocks with the same Scrap Block....

Picture 6 is my Carrier Board cutting Small Tags from Sheet Stock for my Fire Department Safety Products. Last year I sold almost $20K worth of Fire Tags.... See Website below. Could NOT have done it without the CarveWright....

Picture 7 is using the SLED to cut slots in Quilt Rack Rails to make the Quilt Racks into Fishing Rod Holders.....

Picture 8 is an example of the board loosing contact with the brass roller while only being held by ONE ROLLERS and tipping UP on a 4 pass Cut Path of the oval... Another reason to always design the projects with the board being held by 2 rollers.... The $40.00 Cut Path Bit could have EASILY SNAPPED.....

So now you know all my FrugAL Secrets.... Good Luck and Happy Carving...

AL

[Bigtyme]

Great advice and the pictures make it very clear. Thank you, Al.